Prius (Gen 2) :: Red Triangle Comes On, Car Only Shifts To Park / Neutral
Feb 10, 2014
I'm beginning to have trouble with my 2004 Prius starting after hitting the button. The red triangle comes on and it will only go to park or neutral, I can't get the car to go off after pressing the start button, after a few minutes it does something then I'm able to drive . I've had this happen probably 3-4 times in the last 6 months.
As of right now the car has 356,000 miles on it. I'm guessing it might be the 12v battery. Since, I put about maybe 300miles a week on it compared to his 1-2,000 /week we were hoping this car might last at least till the other is paid off.
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The car is a 2005 Prius II hatchback @ 70,000 miles. I like my local garage and they have a good reputation but bad things keep happening. I'm ready to lose my temper but I don't want to. Here's the summary:
3 weeks ago - Started getting the red triangle of death. Had trouble starting. Finally, the car would start, but only go into park or neutral. Towed to garage. Garage put in a new 12 V battery. The car drove away from the garage nicely.
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I just bought a 2006 Prius about a month ago (57K). I love the car and have been educating myself on all things Prius, This car has also made me change my driving style quite a bit. I am getting around 50 MPG (combined) and very happy about it.
I have been using some of the hypermiling techniques to get the mileage, one of the things I do is to put the car in Neutral (to emulate the Glide portion of the Pulse and Glide) especially when coming down a gradient. I was bit concerned about using the Neutral gear and called Toyota Corporation to get a clarification, The answer I got from Toyota was - there is no technical issue, however they do not recommend this be done for safety reasons.
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I own two Prius, the 2005 & 2007. Been driving and repairing both of them for years
My 2007 has the red triangle for the "P" park won't engage issue. No issues at all just the dam message keeps popping up when I come to a stop and of course the constant red triangle. I drive it 60 miles everyday in the snow, rain and wind with this issue.
Still researching the issue and one day I'm sure I will resolve it but until then I'm not worried. BTW its 100% not a battery issue, been down that road.
My question is about the emission test. I don't and never had a CEL on or any codes although I do know there could be some deeper Toyota codes that I can't pull with a traditional OTC scanner. With that said, given that I don't have a CEL on, will the red triangle cause for me to fail the emission test when they run the test?
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After getting on the highway, the red triangle of death, the amber ABS and the VSC lights came on, and little exclamation point came on on millage/audio screen, while battery power went down from high blue to one blue bar. Pulled car over to parking lot, and put in park. After putting it in park, the car would not go out of neutral, but the power still worked.
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Dealer advised the following procedure for parking car:
1. Come to a stop, foot on break
2. Put car into Neutral, make sure Neutral is lit up
3. Then press the Park button.
They said this is better for transmission. Didn't see a mention of it in the manual, and have no problem doing this. Or are you just coming to a stop and then hitting the Park button, skipping the Neutral step?
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I have a '94 E4OD trans in my '53 F100. It uses an analog MLPS for the gear selection indicator, Neutral Safety Switch, and Backup light.
My MLPS Neutral Safety Switch shows continuity in Neutral, but not in Park, I need to be able to energize the starter solenoid in both Park & Neutral.
Shouldn't the MLPS show continuity in both Park & Neutral?
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Have read threads on car wash issues but have only had the dreaded red triangle flash with no problems as a result. Tuesday, however, got ALL the lights on and now car will not go past warm up phase and only goes in neutral or park. Lights come on, clock reads correct time, and radio works. Tried a jump to aux battery, a reset of the main hybrid battery and finally had my baby towed to the local dealer. 2 days later they are telling me the transmission needs to be replaced. They say I have an irreparable short in the transmission and the replacement is $5000. With no issues with transmission and only two bars magenta in color on the battery level showing is this a transmission issue or a battery issue. Can't say I have had great luck with the local dealer on previous maintenance so my confidence is not high. Love my girl but unsure whether the car is worth this repair at 8 years old and 183,000 on the odometer.
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I have 2013 Prius, small Jerk and make "click" sound when I go from Park to Neutral.
It happen Only first time in morning, the temperature is about 78/82 degree F. So its not cold issue after that It runs little bit, like grocery store or gas station no Jerk or no sound.
It has 42000 Miles now.
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2011 Prius II, purchased 2/2012. Driving down the highway, and the car pops itself into Neutral and the check hybrid system warning light comes on on. Had to have it towed to the closest dealership who pretty much told me it must have been my fault; I must have hit the park button driving down the road. However, about an hour prior to getting on the highway, we were driving down the road, heard a beep and started decelerating. I noticed the car had some how ended up in Neutral. Shifted it back to drive kept on our merry way. Half hour later we pull into a gas station, and the park button is not working. The only way we could get the car into park was by turning the car off (pushing the power button).
Once we got back in the car, we checked the park button and it seemed to be working again, so we took off down the highway. We only got about a mile before the car popped back into neutral, the check hybrid system light came on, and we could not keep the car in drive (by shifting it back into drive) because within one second the car would pop back into neutral. The day previous to all this, my car had just had its 5k mile maintenance.
The next day I didn't even make it out of my drive way before the car pops itself back into neutral, but no codes or anything pop up. Put it back into park and drive to work without further incidents. I bring the car to the dealership where I purchased it and they opened a ticket with Toyota drive it for 100 miles and cannot recreate the issue and Toyota is unaware of any issues with park button or the spontaneous neutral shifting. This was 2 weeks ago.
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I have a 2015 Prius package two. The other day I was taking it in for its 10,000 mile maintenance, and I pulled out a fuse that I connected my DRL lights with the Main power (so the drl lights would be on with the head lights). The car was on and the check hybrid system light came on. The car would not move only stayed in park and neutral. I had Toyota care come pick it up and they said that if there's any issues that the warranty won't cover it. How I can get the warranty to cover any damages if there is any. The tow truck driver said he thought the car Might think it's being stolen because I did unplug the battery for about 15 minutes to try to reset the check hybrid system.
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2001 T&C with 3.3, 4speed tranny and 128K miles.
Here's an interesting one: This morning I went went to get gas and no problems getting to the gas station. I pull out of the gas station and get to the first light, again no problem. Light turns green, I go and the tranny shifts from 1st to..... nothing! Just like I slipped it into neutral. I coasted into a parking lot, moved the gear selector from Park to R to D to L, and nothing.
I put it in Park and shut off the engine, then restart and shift into drive and it goes into gear! I start to drive away and when it's time to shift, it goes from 1st to.... nothing again! Once again none of the gears work, until I shut the engine off and restart.
After I restarted the engine I shifted to L and drove home in 1st gear keeping an eye on the tach so I wouldn't exceed 3500 RPM. Got home with no problem.
So, to recap, when it goes to shift up from 1st it goes into nothing. Just like neutral. No check engine light, not "limp mode". If I shut off the engine and restart, it'll go into 1st, and if I keep it in L so it won't try to shift up, it'll drive all the way home in 1st. Reverse doesn't work no matter what I try.
Some background: I changed the tranny fluid and filter 2 years ago at around 90K. fluid level is good. It did rain hard last night, conicidence? The engine compartment is dry.
I think it is safe to rule out a mechanical problem, this seems to be electrical and we can probably rule out the tranny range sensor since it keeps it in 1st when I have it in L and the backup lights come on when I put it in R.
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On my 2.5 SE auto, it feels like the car shifts into neutral at stop lights. Is this the case? If so, is this cause for concern. I know on my old Volvo S60, they removed this feature because it was causing premature wear with all of the extra shifting into and out of neutral.
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My wife's 2004 V6 Camry is not happy. As you accelerate from a stop, the automatic transmission will go from first gear to second, and then sometimes just drop spontaneously into neutral. Because you are in the process of accelerating, the engine RPMs increase until you take your foot of the pedal. In the short trip to the dealership for testing, the problem seemed to reset itself when the car was fully stopped. Other times it just reengaged with the transmission on its own without stopping.
Each time the transmission disengages, another strange thing happens--the instrument panel goes bonkers. The speedometer needle drops to zero, but the tach keeps working. The ABS, check engine, and brake lights turn on.
The dealership had the car for several days and has only been able to scan codes indicating the ABS system and the rear wheel speed sensors. I'm skeptical--especially since the repair estimate is nearly $4,000! I'm taking the car to an independent shop tomorrow for a second opinion.
I can follow up with more details from the dealership's diagnostic report, but for now, all I can say is that the car has almost 100,000 miles and we haven't had a bit of trouble with it until now. I replaced the transmission fluid about 10,000 miles ago.
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My transmission is having issues switching from 1st to 2nd gear and same issue from 5th to 6th. What happens, (when attempting to switch from 1st to 2nd) RPMs rev up high (as though it is in Neutral) then after 2-3 sec it shifts, car jumps crazy and in like 1 sec it shifts down (to 1st - RPMs jump) then shifts to 2nd gear and from there it is fine. 3rd to 4th, to 5th is great, but 5th to 6th same issue, not as extreme, but similar. If i let go of gas when it should shift to 2nd gear, and wait like 2 sec, it will be in 2nd gear without jerking - Normal.
Sometimes in Park there is this noise as though something metal is hitting another metal part, and I can feel it in car - but it goes away and only happens from time to time. Also Neutral on rare occasion works as Reverse - super rare. I did Stall test (per Hyundai procedure Bulletin 13-AT-007) - no issues. Dealer ran diagnostic - no Codes in transmission. Flushed fluid - didn't work. I drained fluid again, put new fluid in and checked ATF level per 13-AT-006 - no difference. Tested Solenoids - no problem there. What could be an issue with my transmission?? 2012 Sonata GLS 2.4L with 7k miles.
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My 1995 1.8L Corolla wagon (230K original) automatic transmission will shift to neutral while I am driving. It will do this at any speed. It lasts for one to five seconds. Otherwise it runs and shifts perfectly . It does it on level or graded roads, maybe one to five times per week. I no longer feel confident to drive it. At first I would be driving along and the speedometer would go to zero. This would last for one to three miles. Then, after this, the speedometer would go to zero and the overdrive light would go on/off, and the transmission would shift back and forth. I changed the VSS but it did not fix the problem. Now it does the same again, only the transmission shifts to neutral.(The lever stays in Drive) This lasts for one to five seconds. Moving the shift lever during this time has no effect.
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Transmission issues...2000 Subaru Outback AWD Automatic. Decelerate to a complete stop, and it just shifts to neutral...have to give it some gas before it pops into 1st gear again. Only seeing the issue when I decelerate all the way to a complete stop, or very near a complete stop. No issues with shifting from reverse into drive. Any solution beyond the $1800 for a new transmission?
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Driving up a slight hill unloaded yesterday at about 40mph constant pedal pressure the truck shifts into neutral...at least that's what it feels like. Revs go up and no power. When I take my foot off the pedal the transmission catches and drives fine. There is no bucking or hard shifting, just that slipping. What it could be? This problem arose suddenly....never had any problems prior. It is not an issue that has gotten worse over time...
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My brother-in-law asked me about his 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe. It has an automatic transmission, that's where the problem is. Several times recently it doesn't want to go into reverse or park. Shifts fine, fluid fine, no smell or noises. Vehicle has about 68,000 miles on it.
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2008 Passat 2.0T auto, started occasionally shifting with a loud bang into and out of park, and from forward into reverse and reverse into forward. No MIL, pending transmission communications error code. Would accelerate very poorly up until about 30mph and then accelerate normally. Shutting the car off and then restarting would usually clear up the symptoms. Started happening about once a week over a 3 week period, and then started happening about about every other day. With it happening more often, had an opportunity to experiment a little, and by shifting into sport mode (which causes the MFD to display the gear that the transmission is in) noticed that the car was not shifting into 1st to 3rd gear, but starting off in 4th. With that and the rough shifts in and out of park, I thought that it was probably transmission related,
With a tranny being $$$$ and the battery being 4 years old, and relatively cheap to replace, I decided to play the long shot and see if a possibly weak battery was causing an electrical problem in the transmission. The battery checked out OK at a couple of places, but decided to give it a shot and replace it anyway.
Installed the new battery (Bosch from Pep Boys $109) and had every warning light on the dash go on with the first restart, along with a return of the harsh shift out of park problem. Shut the car off, turned it back on, drove five miles, all the warning lights went out, and no return of the transmission problem after 5+ months and 10K miles.
Just a heads up - if your battery is 4+ years old, and you are getting any odd problems that could in any way possibly be related to the electrical system - which includes just about every system on our cars - consider going for a new battery. Worked for me.
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I was driving my 1998 Ford F150 the other day and pulled into a driveway. At that time, the transmission quit pulling like I put it in neutral. It shifts from park and goes into reverse but not drive. It has the 4.6L and is 2 wheel drive.
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