Prius (Gen 2) :: Red Light Blinks, Won't Unlock When Clicking Button
Mar 7, 2015
So, I was about to go get something in the garage yesterday and the car didn't open. I know one of the fobs has a bad battery. Well I got new batteries and replaced them in both fobs.
Red light blinks can't unlock when clicking the unlock button nor does the smart function work. I get the little key out and open the drivers seat and think Shouldn't there be some lights on in here like around the power button? or blinking?
Usually when you unlock with the little key should you be able to turn lights on inside the car?
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Have a 2001 Prius going strong except for the ac. The button light blinks on the ac switch, and the compressor seems to shut off. But some times the ac works fine.
I brought it into the dealer and they said I need a new compressor.I think it's a temp sensor, otherwise, why is the ac nice and cold and can stay on for some period before going off.
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I kept my car more than 6 days in my garage and today I tried to start my car but, unfortunately smart key did not work. once i kept my hand under the door handle i can here a small click noise but it is not the usual noise and the turn light even did not flash, still the door is locked so i tired to unlock with the mechanical key. Then I enter to the car and i press the break paddle I heard a long motor noise as usual but this is bit longer noise. then i saw my smart key appears on the dash board but the car did not start up . again i tried to on the car I here a knocking noise and the green light on the power button blinks. I tried several times no luck. what will be the problem will it be 12v battery?
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I recently purchased a 2009 Honda Civic EX. I also have a 2012 Honda CRV, and I'd like to set the key fob/car behavior like the CRV, in that when I click the unlock button, all doors open, instead of the 'classic' behavior one click drivers-side, two clicks both sides - is there a way to set this up ?
Also, I used to have a 2005 Honda Accord, and it had a neat option/behavior - hold down the unlock button after unlocking the car, and the driver and passenger side windows go down - pretty handy when you've parked the car during a hot day - can program that into the key fob/car ?
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I have an '03 Camry XLE with V6 engine, which I bought used later last year. The automatic climate control AC was standard with this vehicle. But when I turn on the AC, the light on the AC button blinks on and off, and it blows warm air. The first thing that I did was check the under-the-hood fuse box, which is where the manual shows a 10 amp fuse for the AC. PROBLEM...there is no 10 amp fuse where it should be, but to make matters worse, there is an empty slot with no contacts to accept a fuse as well. The fuse box cover shows that there should be a fuse at that location as well, but there is none.
A lack of info about relays in both the cars manual as well as the Chilton repair manual, accompanied by the fact that there is no fuse where the manual and fuse box cover says that there SHOULD be a fuse for the AC is what caused the confusion. The AC relay is called the "magnetic clutch relay"...why, I don't know. But I swapped that relay with a similar one that I know was working and the AC works fine. The new relay is about $14, and there is no fuse because there should be no fuse...the relay does the trick, I guess. Anyway, problem solved.
APPARENTLY, some things must get lost in the translation. The car's manual shows TWO fuses labeled HTR, or heater...yet describes them as being for the air conditioning system. Case closed?
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I'm parking the car (gen. 2) a long while, so I checked the manual which shows the deactivation button on/off positions. It show the button sticking out more = the off position. However, the car symbol still blinks on the dashboard.
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I have dismantled my trunk completely in order to install rear upgraded lights, as well as to install a new bumper to my kit. I have not put back the interior of the trunk yet. I went to let the top down so I could begin to remove the rear seat to do the mod to the subwoofer that a fellow forum member recommended and provided an instructional. But the top will not come down.
I was able to raise the top and the windows. But when I push the button to lower the top the red light to the switch blinks but nothing happens. My question, do I have to reassemble tyne trunk in order to lower the top. If that is the case how is everyone doing the woofer and amp work with the top lowered.
What I really want to do is lower the top partially so I can remove the rear sear set (top) so I can get to my subwoofer. Or maybe the seat can come out without lowering the top.
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I had a new compressor installed on '07 ES350 and now every now and then the AC button light blinks, the cool air shuts down and I get a message on the screen saying "Check Air Conditioner".
It only occurs occasionally --maybe not at all one day and two or three times another day. I returned to the shop that installed the compressor and they don't seem to know what is causing the problem. (They said maybe a freon overfill and adjusted that --but it's still occurring.)
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THE PROBLEM: Our Prius 12V aux battery died after my wife left the light on inside the car and instead of buying a new battery, we decided to try jump starting it. My wife tried jump starting our Prius with the neighbors pickup truck and even though I wasn't physically there to witness it, I'm pretty sure that the polarity got swapped during the process. It wouldn't start afterwards, so we went out and bought a brand new 12V aux battery. The prius still will not start. No electric components seem to work (door locks, back brake lights, windows, radio don't work). The dash only shows the orange exclamation mark and the check engine light, nothing else. The power button blinks orange, never goes green.
TROUBLESHOOTING that I've tried:
1. Checked the big 120A fuse right on the positive + terminal. Visibly looked good.
2. Checked all the fuses by the drivers left knee. All tested good with resistance + visible checks.
3. Checked all the fuses in the fusebox under the hood. All tested good EXCEPT the big relay integration fuse under the white plastic cover. It was definitely blown.
4. Replaced the relay integration, still no luck, same exact symptoms.
5. Tried force starting the car in emergency mode by holding the brake and power button down for 15+ secs. The engine starts, but the dash is still dead showing just the check engine light and orange exclamation mark. Can not shift gears or drive.
6. Tried slow charging the NEW battery to get the voltage higher, still no luck. It's testing about 13V with everything off.
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My smart key works, but the manual unlock button seems to be broken. That is, there is no "give" when I press it.
I'm not sure if the lock button works either - I think it does not.
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Prius sat in my garage for about a month without moving went to start it up had 0 power, the unlock button on the keys wouldn't even open the doors. So I tried to jump start the car which would kind of work. The car would turn on for a few secs maybe 5 sec then turn right back off. So had the battery tested and came back as bad battery.
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I did a search and read the manual but I can't seem to figure it out. Is there a way to unlock all of the doors by pushing the unlock button on the key fob once? I see in the manual it can be done I think by turning "remote 2 - press unlock" on in the car settings but it doesn't seem to work. Also am I reading correctly that there are no door unlock sensors on the rear doors? With my LS and my old IS I could touch the rear doors and all of the doors would unlock but this can't be done on the GX?
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I've had a Prius (2nd generation) since 2006 and have been thrilled with it.
So today, I purchased a Prius V (three, I believe). Very happy with it in general so far, but incredibly disappointed to discover that some of the features I have most enjoyed about my 2nd generation don't seem to come with my version of the Prius V.
On my Prius (2nd), I can unlock the hatch (and all other doors) simply by depressing the rectangular button with the key FOB in my pocket. That does *not* work on my Prius V and everything in the manual and what I can find online says that it *should* work.
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I happened to read the following passage on page 37 of the owners manual discussing usage of the wireless remote control:
To Unlock: Push the unlock switch once to unlock the driver's door alone. Pushing the switch twice within 3 seconds unlocks all the doors simultaneously ... This double switch operation to unlock all the side doors and back door can be changed to a single switch operation. For details, contact your Toyota dealer.Click to expand...
(Note that this is different than the "smart unlocking" operations discussed on page 32.)
I'm interested in having all the doors unlock with just a single press of the remote unlock button. How to achieve this setting?
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Wife just called with a weird one. She said the doors won't lock - using either the key fob or using the door lock/unlock button on the car interior. They will lock, and then immediately unlock. Won't stay locked.
Since the car isn't here, I'm shooting in the dark, but I'm having her check:
Make sure all doors are properly closed/latched. Push a button on the key fob to see if the LED lights up (I changed batteries a year ago).
Couple of searches showed up:
Potential issue with lights on when car is turned off (never had this issue before). Someone mentioned a switch below the dash to right of steering column.
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Went down to the garage at work to get my car and the keyfob unlock button did nothing on the treg. The green light on the button flashed, but no matter how close I was and no matter how many times I pressed the button, nothing happened.
When I opened the door with the key, the alarm went off but starting the car fixed that (I really don't know what buttons on the remote to press to stop the alarm--I've hit panic by accident in my pocket a few times and only after furiously pushing all sorts of buttons on my keyfob has the alarm deactivated... I'm never sure which one did it).
When I got home the first two times I tried to lock the treg nothing happened. Then it locked. Now it seems to work 100%. I had the range fix and my range is quite good.
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Yesterday when I pulled in my garage, my 2007 Prius starting locking over and over by itself- it was freaking me out.
In doing some internet research and on here, I realized that my unlock key was “stuck†and could not be pushed in, and I assume this is what was causing the automatic unlocking. I have played around with it, but so far I have not been able to open it up or pop it back in place as some have been able to do.
A couple of questions:
I think this has caused the battery to die on my FOB, because none of the buttons work now, and the red light doesn't flash when a button is pushed. But, the smart key system still works, the doors unlock when I touch the handle, and I can drive the car. Will that continue to work with a dead battery in the key FOB??
What bugs me about this is I NEVER use the buttons on the FOB- always use the smart entry, etc, so I know I didn't do anything to cause the unlock button to stop working...
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My Pris 2010 would not start this morning. My wife tried to start the car this morning and it would not start. All the symbols on the display light up and would not go. She then tries to turn off the car, but the Triangle symbol with the exclamation mark within it lights up. The Start button light is red and the Park button flashes green. Added to that is the constant beep that you hear when you try to close the door with the keys in the car. I cannot even turn the steering wheel. I had to get it towed to the Toyota dealer and am was told that i would hear back tomorrow.
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My defrost button blinks for 25 seconds when I start the car. After it stops blinking the fan comes on but I won't defrost the front windshield, air only comes out the side vents.
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The light came on the dash, it blinks at first, then becomes solid. Checked all the air pressure, tires are all fine. Tried resetting with the button, doesn't fix it - blinks then goes solid.
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Had start up, light flashes four or five times, then goes away. Our car is 3 months old with approximately 4500 miles on it. Is this just a maintenance reminder because it is coming up on 5k miles, or is something not right here? Just got 46 mpg hand calculated with the car loaded to the gills with stuff and a bike rack on the hitch so I would be surprised if anything was actually wrong.
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