I always feel bad for my Prius when I merge onto a highway or have to floor the accelerator pedal to get across an intersection. I feel like it hurts it or something, I know electric motors are durable though, and gas engines are a bit more finicky.
View 12 RepliesCar was running. Both rear running lights out.
Intended to pull #9 'stop' fuse. (I did not see #16 'tail' fuse). Instead, pulled #8 'OBD' fuse. Returned the #8 OBD fuse.
When accelerating quickly with v10 get a noise like that of speed bumps on side of highway(bumpy humming) for a split second and then goes away. No change in performance but just had 2 new rears put on and alignment done.
View 3 RepliesI have an 05 RX330 with about 120K on it. I've had it for about a year - no real issues. The car has a slight rattle coming from the engine compartment on the driver side on acceleration. From what I have been reading, that noise is normal on these cars. What I don't find normal is that it has an intermittent loud growl on quick acceleration from a complete stop. It sounds like the exhaust of a muscle car from the 60s, like Toretto's car in the Fast and the Furious.
It happens like at 2500 RPMs for a few seconds then it goes away. The noise is in the same area. It's driving me nuts. And just like everything, whenever I take it in to the shop to have it checked out - it does not make the noise. So far it has happened twice. Last week and last night. I'm afraid it be the transmission, but no check engine light, no loss of power, and the transmission shifts normal. I'm thinking it's an exhaust leak, but as mentioned before - no check engine light. If there was an exhaust leak I would imagine it would trigger an emissions code.
I have a 2003 impala I just bought and it has an intermittent problem. Sometimes when I step on the gas the motor will 'slam'---kinda like if the motor mounts were bad but they look good and it doesn't always do this. Also, if I hit the gas pedal hard and then almost as quickly let off the gas pedal I get the same effect--shutter/slam. I suspect the mounts but they look fine. If I keep on the gas all gears shift very smoothly. Gear shift is smooth thru all gears if I floor it or go slowly accelerate so it seems not to be the transmission either.
View 5 RepliesI now have an '01 Mountaineer with AWD and the 5.0. I have a strange vibration that only seems to happen when I accelerate as I get on the highway. I get up to speed and just as I let off on the throttle I get a vibration/shudder from the rear. Almost as if I ran over the rumble strip on the side of the highway. It's a short grrrr, then it goes away.
View 2 RepliesE 350 with a 5.8 drive ability headache 94 E 350 with a 5.8. about 1/2 throttle or under quick acceleration it bucks violently and will die if you don't let up on the throttle. This all started when it was run out of fuel. I found the condenser wire was shorted to its own body. Causing the PCM fuse to blow. I have since replaced the condenser. Same problem exists. I have replaced the map sensor with a known good one, same with the O2 sensor.
The TPS is in range and goes through its range smoothly (this was done on my scanner) Also replaced the fuel pump either due to the fuse blowing or running it out of fuel it wasn't working. Fuel pressure is 30 to 32 psi. I've checked the EGR for leaks and proper operation. I have noticed its very hard to start when its cold. Someone has had problems with it in the past as cat is new and i have noticed some things have been removed or replaced recently. The van was just purchased a few weeks ago by my buddy.
My daughters 2010 Sonata has a occasional problem that is very disturbing. When she is slowly pulling into a a parking spot or into her garage, the car will make a lurch forward. Just a quick acceleration and then back to normal. So far she hasn't damaged anything but its just a matter of time. She has taken it to a neighborhood independent garage.
View 14 RepliesMy year-old Camry hybrid stalled out last night. It was the second time this has happened. The first time, about a month ago, I made a quick start from a light, followed by a quick stop, both actions to avoid an accident. (I was about to get rear-ended and scooted into the intersection to give the guy closing in my mirror more room.) After the stop, the car had no power but it started up, no problem. Last night, I was about a minute into my trip, stopped at a light, and the power just died. Again, it started no problem.
This time I noticed that the radio went out. Not sure about the headlights. The emergency blinkers came on at the touch of the button before I restarted. In both cases, I stepped on the accelerator and got no power. Took it to the dealer and they couldn't replicate the problem, of course, and whatever interrogation they did of the systems found no faults. They had to be convinced that I knew the difference between an actual stall and just going from gas to electric. It's kind of disconcerting to just stall out in the middle of the street. And I'm concerned that this is a problem that could get worse -- probably just after the warranty lapses.
So I'm having the issue with my driver's side headlight that seems so popular with these models. The light goes out and a quick off/on flip gets it going again.
I assume it's the lights and not something else correct?
I'm looking to replace the bulbs but am not sure which type to get.
Do I need a H/L model or are the Prius' high beams controlled by a moving mirror?
A lot of sections of the highway I frequently use is now repaved. Even on smooth looking highway sections, I feel vibration (bumping feel) from the seat and/or floor (also a little from steering). My hip and/or legs feel vibration.
I road force balanced wheels once, and then ordinarily balanced once again. I still feel vibration. I drove the same highway with 2012 Hyundai Veloster and 2012 Mazda 3 hatchback. With those cars, the drive is smooth (no vibration) on smooth looking highway.
2012 Golf TDI is my first car with sports suspension.
I just bought my prius and I don't even have a hundred miles and I noticed the center console gets dirty quick.
View 1 RepliesA demonstration of how the Airlift tool spares you from the hassle of burping the system and attaching a hose to the top air vent on the engine. Done on a 2010 Prius but it applies across the board.
View 4 RepliesPiP or traditional Prius users could tell me the quickest way to accelerate when in EV mode of HV ONLY mode? So I find acceleration is good in TRUE EV mode where I can keep up with regular traffic from a dead stop, however after I have used that batteries resources up I try to use EV of the HV only mode as much as possible.
I find that in EV of HV only mode to be so slow from a dead stop. I try to press the pedal so that the I go to the halfway bar or max of EV mode. However it barely gets the car moving. I figure this is how the traditional Prius works. I think if I was to try to use this EV power to get to 25 mph it would take 15 seconds!
I am getting tint done soon, I had thought I read this a long time ago but I couldn't remember, does tinting our windows require interior trim removal or not?
View 11 RepliesI have a problem with the ipa on my Prius, it used to work fine and I admit I hardly ever used it, I tried to demonstrate it yesterday and when I press the button all I get is 2 quick beeps, nothing on the screen comes up.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 Prius with about 33,000 miles. Owned it about 6 months. It has the original Goodyear tires. I notice that when I do a quick turn, or go over a bump or something like that, I will have a quick moment of "squeal", which I imagine means a little loss of traction.
Is this an indication that my tires are ready for replacement? They still have a reasonable amount of tread. Or is this simply characteristic of this vehicle? Or might it indicate some other problem?
Trouble light indicates intermittently and Beeps when changing lanes or turning quickly.
View 10 RepliesI took my car to the car wash and they seemed to take longer to vacuum/wash it and while driving it away, I noticed something was off. It seems like the engine is louder than normal. Before when starting the car, it would take 30 seconds to a minute before the battery/engine would come on. Then while accelerating to about 25-35 mph, then the engine would come into gear. When going on the freeway, if accelerating at a quick speed it would sound really loud. Now, it seems like instead of silent, quiet, a little louder, louder and loudest - it's moved to the next level. When starting the car, the engine starts right away and when driving away (at less than 25 mph), the engine sound like I am on the freeway and when I'm on the freeway it sound like I'm trying to gun the engine. I don't know what it could be.
View 1 RepliesAn independent mechanic rebuilt my 2001 Honda Accord transmission.
The first problem I had with my car shifting was when I tried to pass a car. The car kind of bucked and would not accelerate enough to pass cars. The fix engine light was on. I took it to a small town mechanic who did some diagnostics and said it was not the transmission. He reset the engine light but it came back on as I was driving home ( 150 miles away). On my next trip downstate ( 150 miles) I had my oil changed. As soon as I left the oil change place my car would not shift from 1st to 2nd gear consistently, and once it dropped into neutral then kind of slammed into second. The D4 light was blinking. This happened inconsistently, but I did not drive it more than 10 miles.
Being 150 miles away from home, I didn't know where to take my car. The local KIA dealership said they could get the diagnostic codes for me but could not fix it. After diagnostics they said the codes indicated some "sort of trouble with the transmission" but couldn't tell what. I called the closest Honda dealership and an independent transmission specialist. I gave both places the codes. Both said it sounded like a transmission problem but couldn't say for sure until they saw the car.
The transmission guy warned me that when people bring their vehicles in for a second opinion, the dealership always recommended very expensive full repairs that are not needed. He told me I should not drive the car, even though it was drivable, (since the problem was intermittent), so I had it towed in to him in the closest big city. He said he would check the car over ( I have a gas leak, some inconsistent electrical problems and my oil light had come on before I had the oil changed) to see if it was worth the price of a repair and call me. I made the 150 mile trip home and waited four days before I called him, since I hadn't heard him. When I called him, he said ,"the transmission rebuild was almost done". He said second gear was "burned out". I was ticked because he did not call me or give me any details ahead of time or put anything specific in writing for me. He said he could "take it back out" if that is what I wanted. I didn't know what to do, so I told him not to take "it" back out.
I picked up the car on Saturday and drove it 15 miles. It worked fine. The next day I drove the car a block and it did EXACTLY the same thing it did before I had it "repaired". The car would not shift from 1st into second.. then it kind of dropped into neutral then clunked into second gear and the D4 light was blinking. When I called him he said he would have to look at it to see what the problem could be. (electrical or something else).
Lately I've noticed the blind spot monitoring light in the mirrors is coming on randomly when I'm driving down the road with no cars around me.
When having my phone hooked via blue tooth and playing music the song will change over the speakers but the screen will still show the prior song I was listening to. Any thoughts?
I'm getting a little concerned that as this car ages all the sophisticated electronics might start failing.