Prius (Gen 2) :: Putting Into B Mode
Jan 2, 2013
What is EXACTLY going on when the Prius is put into B mode ?
View 12 RepliesWhat is EXACTLY going on when the Prius is put into B mode ?
View 12 RepliesHeading out on 4 week 3k mile road trip. Have 12v adaptors for a very efficient laptop and smartphone.
It seems that in "Accessory" mode the PIP is using only the dinky 12V battery so this is not a healthy solution. Is there a recommended strategy to put the car in semi-ready mode and reduce all possible drain so that utilizing the 12V will not be draining the traction battery reserves much at all?
I'm thinking that perhaps trying to put the car in "ready" mode with the FOOT OFF the brake indeed fires up access to the traction battery without firing up other things that require the full power monty that Ready mode with the FOOT ON the brake requires. Seems to me the PIP is a great mobile office solution if we could gain access to traction battery reserves without running much else.
I have noticed that when driving in EV mode when the car switches over to HV mode the Eco icon always lights up! Of course you can select Eco, or Power mode manually, but when it does this automatically, after the EV battery charge is used up, it keeps showing the Eco icon being lite not HV.
View 1 RepliesMy AC always defaults to Recirculation mode the first time I use it after starting the car even though Auto mode is off.
Can I change this to default to fresh air mode?
I have a concern about my 2010 Prius V(five). I've noticed some issues lately that may all tie in to one big problem.
1. My ev mode will not work at all. My battery will be fully charged and not in "B" mode. Turning car off and on will not work.
2. Engine will not turn off when coming to stops. Mind you when the battery is above 3 lines.
3. Throttle response feels like it's in PWR mode(super sensitive) but the engine is leggy. If I floor it for a sec the RPMS are super slow to come down.
4. The Eco line is quick to go in PWR portion and I'm not pushing it any harder than I was before all of this started. It seems like when I push the gas it skips the electric and automatically pulls from the engine.
I have a 2008 Prius. In 2009, I got into a collision, and the car required extensive body work. This week, I took my car to the mechanic to repair the air conditioning system - only warm air was blowing out. According to my mechanic, the compressor went out because the auto body shop put in the wrong oil in the air conditioning system and re-installed the fans backwards. I got my car back today, and the air conditioning works really great!
However, my family spoke to their mechanic (different person from my mechanic), and he indicated that used compressors are dangerous due to the high likelihood that contaminants will be leaked. This sounds completely ludicrous to me. My mechanic said that the other mechanic's concerns are unfounded.
Is it very bad to Power off before putting the car into Park? It seems to go into Park upon hitting the Power button automatically.
View 19 RepliesAfter getting on the highway, the red triangle of death, the amber ABS and the VSC lights came on, and little exclamation point came on on millage/audio screen, while battery power went down from high blue to one blue bar. Pulled car over to parking lot, and put in park. After putting it in park, the car would not go out of neutral, but the power still worked.
View 15 RepliesDealer advised the following procedure for parking car:
1. Come to a stop, foot on break
2. Put car into Neutral, make sure Neutral is lit up
3. Then press the Park button.
They said this is better for transmission. Didn't see a mention of it in the manual, and have no problem doing this. Or are you just coming to a stop and then hitting the Park button, skipping the Neutral step?
My A/c vent at chest level and other levels just stopped putting out cold air, there is a small amount coming out of the vent on the driver side vent. I have the vent knobs set to be open.
I have tried all settings on. Just hoping this is something I can repair. This is an '08 with 120k on it, have had zero hassles for the last 36 months of ownership.
Just bought a Prius 2014 Two and am getting frustrated when I put the car in park get out and go to open another door and its locked. In the manual I know it says press the power button put it in neutral, press the unlock button for five seconds and release. BUT nothing happens.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2011 prius with just a regular stereo and no amplifier. the sound in the speakers go off when putting the volume up, however if I umplug the front speaker connector to the stereo the sound will work fine on the back speaker but once I plug that connector back the sound goes off. the sound to the speakers work fine with the Bluetooth.
View 17 RepliesA little back story my hybrid battery went out about 4 months ago ago and I've been saving money to get it fixed. I've been trying to remember to start it and get it moving every so often. Well I guess I didn't do it enough because go to drive the Prius yesterday to get it started and moved since it's been awhile and the main battery is dead. The way the Prius is parked I can't even get to it to jump it. I'm wondering is there a way to put it in neutral with a dead battery? Or is there a way to charge the battery, since it's actually inside the car? And I'm assuming since the 12V is drained, I'll have to replace that as well correct?
I'm about over this car, while it done great the first 7 years I had it, past two have been a royal pain. Ready to go back to a normal engine and car.
- handbrake = parking brake foot thing - the thing that applies rear wheel brakes when stationary;
- manual = stick-shift etc.
- service brake = normal foot brake/big middle pedal
Driving scenario: Short pauses, quick lights etc - no problem, the car is held on the normal brake and the drive knows I have my foot on the brake so shuts all drive down.
Discussion point here - at lights, longer pause in heavy traffic, level/railway crossing etc. The sort of pause where you want to take your feet off the pedals and wait.
With a manual I would put the car in neutral, apply the handbrake and wait. Then when moving again, car into gear, hand brake off balanced with clutch bite and accelerator.
The car was left in drive all the time & knew if the handbrake was applied not to try and engage forward torque/ride clutches etc. Never needed neutral on the Audi multitronic.
With Prius III when I pull up, if I leave the car in drive and apply the handbrake, then take my foot off the service brake the power modes display shows the car putting torque through the drive train - i.e. battery->motor->wheels & you can feel it pulling slightly in creep mode against the handbrake.
The spot in front of the steering wheel is just a bare patch of dashboard. Why not put it to use? I can put my GPS or my phone there any time, attached with magnets.
View 19 RepliesI'm looking to wire in a AUX light to my reverse lights. As an option, I want to be able to turn the AUX light on without putting the car into reverse as well. This is what I have setup currently and it allows the AUX light to turn on when in reverse with no issues but I can't get the switch to activate the light separately from putting the car into reverse. Every time I flip the switch, it blows the fuse near the 12v input source and never fires up the AUX light. I was wondering if I have the wrong relays or even the wrong switch.
View 18 RepliesI have taken my 2004 Pruis into the Toyota dealership and have been told that there is nothing wrong with my car and it is safe to drive. Here is what is happening.
Sometimes when I start my car and put the car into gear, which you are not supposed to be able to do without your foot on the brake, the car will start rolling before I take my foot off of the brake. I am on level ground when this happens, and I am positive I have my foot firmly on the brake. My first inclination is to push harder on the brake, which does nothing. If I take my foot off of the brake and then reapply it, then the brakes will work and the car will stop.
After this happened a few times, I started paying more careful attention. Whenever this happens, the ABS light is on. When I take my foot off of the brake, the ABS light goes off, and as I said, the brakes work normally.
Furthermore, this only happens if I have been sitting in my parked car for a few minutes with the engine off. It does not happen if I am getting into the car after being away for a few minutes, it only happens if I sit in the car for a few minutes and then turn the car back on to go somewhere.
This is, of course, not only irritating, but unsafe. It can be easy, if you are distracted, to have the car roll into someone or something if you are looking away, thinking that even though you put the car into gear, it will not go anywhere because it is not supposed to go anywhere, you have your foot on the brake!!!!
2014 Grand Cherokee Laredo. Wondering why the hvac acts like it is in recirculate mode with the A/C button pushed in manual mode. Have window cracked to force smoke and odors out of cabin. On vent mode it pushes air right out, in A/C mode it acts like recirculate is partially on and in recirculate mode it draws outside air in like you would expect recirculate to do. Trying to decide if I have something wrong or the nature of the beast. My GM vehicles do not act like this.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Intrepid with ATC (automatic temperature control).I noticed my A/C clutch is always is on even in heat mode (no defrost mode) Is this normal in automatic mode even if I set temp at 90° without defrost mode? Been looking on forums and some say it is normal for newer cars and some say no. What is correct.Doesn't seem normal to me when I set temp at 90° and the A/C is still running. The heat does work though.I did check for voltage at the clutch and it has power so something is telling it to run, (not a bad clutch,stuck clutch etc).
I never seen or heard it cycle when watching it. (hard to tell when driving) because the cooling fans go from low to high sometimes even without the A/C cycling.
In manual mode I can physically turn on or off the A/C but if it is on, I never seen it cycle yet when set at a normal temp 72-75° is this normal?I know it depends on outside temp,humidity, inside temp etc but if it feels comfortable in the cabin shouldn't the A/C cycle on and off every few minuts-10 minutes etc or is it normal to go 30 minutes or more without cycling? I don't have it on max Cool or recirculate mode either.
Here is my problem. In the mornings when I turn on the car and begin to drive away, it operates as if it is in EV mode even though the ECO or PWR light is on. The motor (ICE) turns on as part of the initial warm up but it does not power the car on acceleration. I continue to accelerate enough so that it should ordinarily kick in the motor, but it is only electric powering my car and the battery quickly drains before I even reach the end of my block. I've tried warming up the car, pushing all the EV, PWR, ECO buttons randomly but the only way I've found to fix the problem is to floor it completely which finally starts the motor. Then the problem doesn't happen again until I start the car to go home after work. The problem is most evident in PWR mode where I can clearly tell that the motor (ICE) is not powering the fast acceleration.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2008 F350 with a 6.4 Powerstroke diesel engine that just experienced total engine failure. It has around 65K miles.
There is a heavy burn star pattern on all 8 pistons, a few pistons are cracked, a few cylinder walls are scored, glow plugs are melted, both heads are cracked with multiple stress fractures in each head.
About 1 month previously, the transmission would not work in tow mode and caused the engine to go into limp home mode. The dealership just replaced the entire tranny as a warranty item. About 1 week before the engine failure, I put in a 5.25 oz bottle of Lucas injector cleaner with a full tank of gas.
The Ford dealership is saying that the star pattern on all 8 pistons is due to high pressure fuel overspray and is evidence that I had a tuner on this engine and that the warranty is invalid. I did not have a tuner. What might have caused this engine failure?
Also, they only ripped down the top half of the motor, not the bottom half. I heard this might have been caused by a cracked crank shaft, but Ford refuses to investigate this possibility.