Prius (Gen 2) :: Power Button Didn't Work For A While - CEL On With Code P0420
May 25, 2015
The power button didn't work for a while: For about two hours, the power button (and other stuff) on my 2007 Prius didn't work. But, after a couple of hours, the button worked again and I was able to power down my car (this after many, many pushes both soft and hard). I've now turned it on and off a few times and the car seems to be OK and it's behaving as if it's smiling at me and saying, "What?"
My questions: Does this happen a "lot"? Would the car have turned off if I turned off the smart function (as described on page 34 of the manual)? Is this issue as serious as it seems? Should I dump the car?
This is the first time in 138K miles that the below issues have manifested separately or together.
Other issues that happened at the same time (this morning when the car didn't turn off) were that the:
Instrument cluster was completely dark except for the check engine light (the dark instrument cluster was what first tipped me off that something was wrong)
Backup camera didn't turn on when I shifted into reverse gear
Phone didn't automatically go to speed dial when I was in motion
Fifth door unlock didn't work; the four doors locked/unlocked using the lock/unlock button on the door, but the hatchback didn't unlock.
A day or so ago, the check engine light came on and is throwing a "P0420" code (I posted about this separately yesterday).
By the way, I found out that if you hold down the power button for a while, the car goes into a different state of being where the ICE isn't running and the battery shows as completely empty.
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07 Prius, 6 speaker NON-JBL.
This happened a couple of weeks ago and then again. ALL the buttons on my steering wheel work, AC, Temperature, Defrost, Recirculation etc , except Audio. ( Dash audio functions work fine! )
The last time, restarting the car and the functions came back to life.
Is there some kind of official "reboot" process for the computers?
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So I was driving as usual and out of nowhere my front speakers stopped working. Everything started playing out of the rear speakers and my fade was still centered. I tried the hard reset with the pin and all, shuts the touchscreen and radio off, hit the power button, and nothing changed. Well, my setting were all changed but nothing changed with the front speakers. If I push the fade all the way up to the front, the radio is just silent. Can't figure out what I should do since it seems like a thousand people had this problem and it was fixed by resetting.
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On Monday evening my wife left our 2010 Prius Gen III without pressing the "off" button. She took the keys with her and she claims that she locked the car.
On Wednesday morning I noticed that the dashboard panel was switched on and I deduced that the Prius has been running all the time, with the ICE engine kicking in now and then to keep up the Hybrid battery level. A quick call to my dealer confirmed this, and also the fuel consumption average was in line: 14 l/100 km on a 20 Km trip (my average is 3.9 -4.2 l/100km...).
I was very surprised to discover that the Prius does not switches off when the key is removed (i.e. taken far away from the car). This seems to me a sort of engineering flaw.
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I'm a new Prius owner (only 500 miles) and have experienced a lot of issues so far. Today I got in my car and both front and rear windows were fogged up. I turned on both defoggers and the front window would not clear. I set the vent speed to high and could hear a noise like the air was blowoing, but it did NOT clear the front window - I had to clear it with a cloth so I could see.
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In some areas, the internal PTC cabin heaters were missing the relays and didn't work. They mentioned that the relays were in the glove box and that they easily installed them manually. There were no relays in my glove box, but I couldn't be sure if they were installed. So I took a picture of my "relays and fuses box" for someone with experience to examine. Are the PTC heater relays installed in my car?
Full resolution Dropbox link: [URL] .....
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When I got my Prius, the volume knob didn't work, and I thought I could live with it. Steering wheel controls work fine except when I'm turning the wheel, then I have to chase the buttons. I really want the volume knob to function properly.
The post that inserts into the head unit volume receiving column is sheared off and stuck in there. I tried super-gluing it back together, but that didn't give me the slight bumpy sensation when I turned it. I thought it would at least depress, but not when it was superglued together. It won't pop in and out when I press on it when it was glued.
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I have a 2007 Prius/70,000 miles and live in NY. The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (Check Engine Light) came on back in May when I was visiting Texas and I stopped to have the code read and got a P0420 code - possible emission problem. As I was far from home I took a day to think about what I should do and by the next evening the light had shut off. Driving back to NY the following week the light came on again about 150 miles from home. Once again within a few days it had shut off. End of June I had the same thing happen - this time I took it to a Auto Part store and had them read the codes again. The guy there told me the only thing that showed up was some kind of emission error. Again within a few days the light went off. Just yesterday (August now) the light came on again. I've resisted taking it to the dealer because I know they will charge me $100+ just to plug it in and tell me what I partly already know. I've been reading up the P0420 code online however still have a few questions.
A. Is it normal for this code to go on and off repeatedly without me really doing anything?
B. Is there any way to figure out what the specific issue is without taking it to Toyota?
C. If it is the catalytic converter would I be covered under the Federal Emission Warranty? - which from what I've read is 8 years/80,000 miles?
The following is what the initial code printout read:
Troubleshooting P0420
OEM Brand: Domestic
Definition
Catalyst efficiency low-bank 1
Explanation
The oxygen sensors monitor the Catalytic Converters ability to store oxygen.
Probable cause
1. Catalytic converter defective (failure possibly due to # 2, 3, or 4)
2. Engine misfire or running condition
3. large vacuum leak
4. Engine oil leakage into exhaust-valve guide seals, piston rings
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Just picked up a 2005 with 146k and full Toyota service history, although seems a steering recall was not done. Will run it to the dealer today to check. I need to decide a.s.a.p. if I am keeping the car or not (I know the seller, he will take it back)
Anyway to cut a long story short, two questions.
1) Car had P3190 and P0420 when I got it. Seller reset, drove home and within 5 minutes on the road the CEL was back on. Checked the codes at home and see only a P0420. Much to worry about? Seems this might be big (Cat) or small (O2). Car getting great mileage - 60mpg at 60mph and it seems to be running great. Should I worry or forget about it? Note I am in Florida with no inspections.
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So I bought a used 2005 Prius back in August it had 88,000 miles on it and was out of warranty. But I had a full inspection on it and the car was in great shape. Well, after a few months of driving, I got the P0420 error. I took it into my mechanic who cleared the code and told me to call him if it came back on. It came back on, then I cleared it myself, and it came back on again. So it was confirmed that I had a bad catalytic converter.
[URL].......................
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I have P0420 on my 06 prius with 220K miles. I reset it and it comes back after roughly 50 miles-ish. I have freeze frame data when the code is thrown. I read live data at 2500 rpm while the car is warm, and have all the data on the video link below.
My upstream O2 voltage is 3.1-3.3V. Downstream is .2-.4V. I understand that the downstream should be steady, and the upstream should fluctuate and read something between .1V-1V.
I have also taken thermal temp gauge and measured across both cats and readings downstream seem to be only slightly higher (+50F). It should be ALOT higher shouldn't it?
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I checked out a 2006 Prius yesterday a guy is selling. It had the CEL on (not sure why somebody would try and sell a car with that, but anyway). He said that it's because they get gas at a station that consistently doesn't tighten the gas cap enough but by the time the tank is down to 1-2 bars the light always goes away. Although I don't doubt his story, I absolutely doubted the cause. So I took it to get the code pulled and it was P0420, which is catalytic converter threshold below efficiency.
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Symptoms:
-Car "Surges" at any speed. Loss of power is significant.
-Check engine light is on , DTC code = P0420
Tried:
-Fuel injector cleaner
-Spark plugs replaced around 40k miles ago
-Checked for leaking valve cover gasket (oil in plug wells) None
Can a clogged fuel filter cause this? At idle the car is fine, the symptoms seem to only occur when car is under load (In drive). My son drove this car an it always seemed empty meaning he never put much gas in it.
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So today my CEL came on. I immediately looked at my mileage and I was EXACTLY at 500m past my oil change the other day. I checked the dip stick and lo and behold, it was about 3/4" past the full marker. I took it back to the oil change place and had them drain it down to a good level.
I had driven from NH to NY this week. I filled up my gas tank on my way home from NY. Gas cap was on nice and tight for sure.
The code is still on (not sure how many miles or drive cycles is required) for something to clear. I figured it was perhaps due to too much oil added. I decided a few hours later to take it to AutoZone and grab the diagnostic code. It's a P0420 code (Cat System efficiency below threshold: Air leak in exhaust before rear HO2S, AF Sensor Error, Fuel System Fault, Faulty Catalytic Converter).
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My check engine light has been coming on and off and it seems to show P0420 for catalytic converter. The light stays off for about a week and it'll come on for a day or two and off again.
Wouldn't a failed converter stay failed? Can P0420 be triggered by loose/bad gas caps?
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I changed the resistor but level 5 still didn't work with the new resistor installed... Found out that it was a 30 amp fuse #53 under the hood, the high level blower fuse. Installed a new fuse, put the old resistor back in and the AC blower worked fine! However, one more problem....the new fuse blew a few minutes later...not sure what that is about. I installed a second 30 amp fuse and it has been working for an hour so far.
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Was sitting in my car on my lunch break playing the radio and had my seat heater on, and all of a sudden my radio kinda went staticy and died and my car completely died. Had to power it back down then back up to get it running, battery didn't show very low, but when I went into start mode (non accessory) it immediatly started the ICE and charged.
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Page 285 of the 2010 Prius Owner Manual states:
"Remote Air Conditioning System" =if equipped
The Remote Air Conditioning System uses electrical energy stored in the hybrid battery (traction battery) and allows the air conditioning to be operated by remote control. My remote controls have this button, but nothing happens when I press them for a couple seconds.
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With the headlights on and the brightness all the way up the button backlights on the dash don't work (park & power buttons) and steering wheel are very dim....?
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When AC is on "Auto" the fan runs at slowest speed unless outside temp is over 100 degrees or setting is below 64 degrees. With setting left at 70 or 71 degrees, and outside temp is 80 or higher, cabin temp will slowly rise when driving in traffic and will slowly fall at speeds over 60, but not reach set temp until driving over an hour plus.
If fan is manually adjusted to higher speed, "Auto" system shuts off and AC becomes totally manual control. If the "Auto" button is touched, fan goes off again and the system will not do any of the automatic functions spelled out in manual.
Two different dealers have advised that ALL 2014 Avalons are like this and so it is considered "normal" regardless of what manual says and they and Toyota Customer Service refuse to do anything about it. What is the experience of other 2014 owners.
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I got a problem with me partners accent 2003 hatchback, after she filled up with fuel and turned the air-con on the speedo didn't work like it read 0, but while driving and turning the aircon off speedo started working again..... What was wrong or happened? as now it wont do it....it works fine??
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