Prius (Gen 2) :: Power Loss While Driving On Interstate
Jun 2, 2010
Prius Loses Power While Driving on Interstate.
View 19 RepliesPrius Loses Power While Driving on Interstate.
View 19 RepliesOK, the wife had this car lose power on the interstate (only 5 mph) -- said she heard a lot of noise (no good description) and smelled rubber burning. Towed to Honda dealer -- found nothing wrong even after putting 44 miles on it to try to get it hot. My co-worker said she had a similar problem with a Civic --they found nothing on the computer -- happened again, she limped in a 5 mph and they could hear it was the alternator. Alternatively, web research has shown a LOT of problems with the 2004 V6 transmission.
View 1 RepliesI own a 02 fwd v6 Santa Fe that just lost power on the interstate. It will go about 20 miles an hour and basically does not change gear unless it is in manual mode. I was able to drive it to a local repair shop but they are having trouble figuring out what is wrong with it.
First, they told me the plugs and wires were bad, changed those and still no power. Next, they told me it was the fuel pump, change that and still no power. Next, they said it was the catalytic converters but the said they unhooked them to test the theory and it still had not powered. They said it may need back pressure from the cats so that may not work. They want me to buy them but they are very expensive especially on a guess. Next, they told me if that does not fix it is must be the transmission. Will the cats off keep it from running due to back pressure? Does it sound like a transmission issue or could it be something else?
My daughter was driving down the interstate doing 70 mph when her explorer lost power and died. It will not re-start. Checked the DTCs and there were no codes. This same thing happened about a year ago and she had it towed to the dealership. After 3 weeks, they called and said to come pick it up. They said they had no idea what had been wrong but it was running. They replaced crank sensor, cam sensor, cleaned and checked several others an it still would not start. Then one day they sent one of the flunkies to move it back into the shop and he started it up and drove it in! They checked several more things but claimed they really didn't know what was wrong or why it started running. Now it has done it again. I suspect it may be a faulty ECM.
View 3 RepliesI've been having this problem where as i'm driving (mostly highway) all of a sudden I get the feeling like i've let go of the gas pedal but I haven't. The mpg meter goes from about 40 to 100 as if its on straight battery power and I have to really press the pedal down to get any decent acceleration. Once in awhile i'll get the big orange triangle warning and the little pic of an exclamation point in an outline of a car. But after a day it may go away.
One time it didn't and I brought it in. I spent 80 bucks for them to find nothing wrong and say the alert had something to do with an oxygen sensor (its was awhile ago, i dont quite remember exactly)
This just recently started happening just shy of 200k miles, 14 years. While driving down the road, suddenly notice a power loss or no power, i.e., no motor output. Sometimes the just the ICE won't accelerate, sometimes it's both ICE and Electric motive force. When this occurs, the Brake and ABS check lights turn on. After a few seconds, to 10's of seconds, then the motive power reenables and the Brake/ABS lights go out. Often the cars continues on with no repeat. Testing over a few drives, it seemed to only do it during the warmup cycle when coolant was near 160-170.
However on a drive in the afternoon after it occurred in the morning; with ambient around 30 degrees, windows cracked, interior heat off, it didn't occur on the 15 minute drive, mostly freeway speed, even after about 10 minutes and cranking interior heat on. No codes are registered when this happens. I used Torque Pro and monitored things like throttle position and such, and things there seemed normal. Eng rpm dropped under 1000rpm and wasn't steady. Watching the MFG the power flows responded to the throttle (pushed/released) as if the engine was still doing what was asked (go figure, the display shows what is commanded, not what is occurring?).
So am i the only 200,000 miles prius owner on here? I have an 05 toyota prius, purchased with 44 miles on it. I now have 218k miles. All I've replaced was an o2 sensor and a few other minor things. But it died last thursday, had it towed to my house, still don't know the extent of the issues. I had the following codes P1116, P1121, P3193. I was driving on the interstate and all the warning lights came on and i lost power as i got over. Jumps would only allow me to turn my lights on and dashboard, but the engine doesn't start.
View 4 RepliesSO like the title suggests i had my EPC light come on while driving down the interstate. I was on cruise and had been for about an hour. then the motor seemed to stall and then pick up right away but wasnt at full power. i had the gas pedal to the floor and was losing speed. the cruise had come off as soon as the motor faulted. the light stayed on constant and i did not get any other lights or sounds to accompany it.
I pulled off at the next exit and stopped in a parking lot. I turned off the car and then turned the key to see if my check engine light was still operating. it was so i listened to the car as i turned the key on completely. I didn't hear any odd sounds and the EPC light was no longer on. I pressed the gas pedal and the motor responded with full power. Not sure what would cause this 2 occur but I am concerned that it may happen again and i may get stuck somewhere.
Occasionally when I'm driving, I'll accelerate and get a brief loss of power, then it'll pick back up, followed by a puff of white/blue smoke. This usually happens when the oil is over 120*, but not quite to full operating temps. It doesn't happen every time either. Only 3 times in the past week. Otherwise, there is a very faint haze of white smoke that seems to be constant. It is very difficult to see unless against a dark background. Oil level is good, I check it once a week, no rising or lowering levels.
I pulled the EGR yesterday, all good, although a tad dirty. Cleaned up no problem. Haven't had a chance to do a bubble test yet. There are some DTCs, but I can't remember off the top of my head what they were. I'm about to go clean the inside of the truck, so I will pull those and update in a few minutes.
Truck has about 148,500 miles.
Torque Pro lists these codes: C1145, P0299, P0677
I have a 2004 Accent. When driving on the interstate yesterday, I turned the turn signal on and my car died for a moment. After I parked it, it would not start. It did not turn over. Took the battery out to get checked. It was good. Put back in and then the car started. Drove home. The radio and clock would flicker intermittently but made it home. Today it will not start at all. Nothing comes on.
View 14 RepliesI have been getting about a 1-2 second power loss while driving. happened last friday when at a stop light, pressed the pedal and started to go then it dropped out for a second or two and then caught right back up. only cut out twice in 10 minutes then ran fine for another week. This friday oddly enough , it happened again while driving down the road. happened about 5 different times in 10 minutes, then back to normal. I replaced the passenger uvch with dorman, but not driver side a couple of months ago . Does this sound like the other uvch, or tps?
View 6 RepliesMy issue can be while driving with cruise on, or accelerating, the truck just losses power, then recovers. At idle, the rpm can, but not always, fluctuate.
There is no "misfire" when it happens, but it just falls on its face. I have NO diagnostic tools, and my injectors are not stock, so I am unable to unplug my DP.
My thoughts are to unplug the ICP and give that a shot? Meanwhile, I will put in a order for a elm327
I have searched and the only thing close is bad sensor for water in fuel light but it does not say they lost power. When driving or leaving from a stopped position, if I put any extra load on engine by pressing on accelerator pedal fast the water in fuel light comes on and the glow plug light comes on and the truck loses all power. Not 12V power just engine power. I have to let off the pedal and the lights go out and I have power again. Until I press the pedal hard again and it does it again. I have drained the filters and replaced them and still the same.
View 14 RepliesBeen a while... Problem today while towing... I was in some hilly areas but nothing too .. I was pulling an unloaded trailer and experienced a significant loss of power and overheating. Engine started getting hot (almost to red) and then the transmission came up in temp. Made it to a rest area and all cooled down within 2 to 5 mins... but the strange thing about the power uphill is that it is happening at slow speeds as well... boost seems normal. Recently did the injector cups, so the thermostat is new (motorcraft), coolant is new, and put new o-rings on injectors.
View 14 RepliesI have an 07 6.0 with 400,000 miles. Has been a great truck with no major problems. Before I started the work I had 3 bad injectors, running rough and the oil/ coolant temp just outside of 15 degrees. So I tour her down and replaced head gaskets, installed arp studs,all new injectors,all new glow plugs and new oil cooler. Ran great for a couple days. Then when driving to work lost power on and off for a few miles then completely gone could only go 10 miles an hour. I checked codes and there was the under boost code witch has been on there for a while and I forget the other code but it was for the ipr valve so I replaced the valve and right after still the same but that code went away and the p0470 popped up. So I cleaned out the ep sensor tube and replaced the valve. After several miles she now runs great but now I'm getting a little puff of white smoke when I take off and not every time and mainly when I take off some what quick. All codes are gone expect the under boost. I have an egr delete already.
View 7 RepliesToday I was driving on the interstate at about 70 mph and my truck seemed like it popped out of gear...no loud noise or anything. I was able to coast off the off ramp and my truck was still running but sounded a little odd when I revved it. No gears work and when i revved it in gear it sounded like something loose in the bell housing area maybe. After I turned it off I was not able to restart it, sounded like the starter was just free spinning. Flywheel maybe?
View 6 RepliesI am the original owner of a 2001 Ford Excursion with about 262K miles on it. I have thought about selling it more than once but I have finally come to realize that this is a very sturdy and reliable truck - so why sell it?
With that said, there are a few items that I need to address. The most important right now for me is to get the steering adjusted some how to eliminate the looseness. It is especially noticeable when driving on the interstate, I guess because I am traveling faster.
I am not a skilled mechanic but I do want to learn more about performing some of the simpler maintenance items since I have lost faith in the auto repair shops.
My GC is overheating. Started as occasionally but now increasing in frequency. I find it will being to overheat after driving on the interstate for half hour or so but I can "calm" it back down but turning on the heat. I've replaced the following:
1. coolant (no drips or leaks nor am I losing coolant over time)
2. thermostat (twice)
3. temperature sensor
4. serpentine belt and tensioner
5. radiator (last summer)
6. water pump (last winter)
I notice the fans run more often than they should. For example, after a 10 minute ride to work in the morning,. I notice the fans are running as I pull into my parking space.
Truck in question is 2002 F150 4.6 with 150K miles. Crew was on interstate tonight driving 65 MPH and truck shut off. They called me out to trouble shoot. Engine had oil (was a quart low) and will not start. Starter engages but will not turn motor over. Had truck towed back to my shop. I removed belt just to see if it may be a locked up pulley i know, long shot)... it was not.
Employed called a shade tree mechanic he knows and trusts. He said was likely a broken timing chain and that is a common problem in 4.6. Said locked engine is probably because broken chain is wrapped around shaft. When I turn key fan does move about 1/4 inch.
1) Does this sound like a possibility or even a plausible explanation? Just trying to verify the information.
2) If this is the case, would a repair be advisable, or is engine likely shot and i should just replace it?
I have an 06 F-250 Lariat with the crew cab. Even though the windows are tinted, the A/C struggles to keep the cab at 70 degrees on any given sunny day oer 80 degrees outside.
As long as you're driving on the interstate, it blows cold, but when slowing down (like a traffic jam or a stop sign) the air gets warmer and has a funny smell (like it's wet).
When I got the truck it had just gotten a new A/C compressor (160k miles). It stopped working last summer (180k miles) so I had the truck at the Ford dealer here and they replaced the A/C compressor, condenser, pressure regulator and dryer...basically all A/C components under the hood.
They tell me its working fine, but I find that hard to believe. No Ford I've ever had has had trouble keeping the cab ice cold even on the hottest days... How are your air conditioners working? Do they keep the cab cold? What I should look at?
I drove my car to work today and no problems. Tonight my wife and I took the car out to go to dinner and intermitantly there and back my car is hesitating as we drive along. I thought it was odd at first then my wife asked if I was kidding around. I told her its not me.
It's as if the car is driving then all of a sudden its like a loss of power or as if the limiter kicks in and starved the engine of gas and then a second later it jerks back to life and keeps going.
If it does this tomorrow its going to the dealer. It is not throwing any warning lights and I have 3/4 tank of gas so its not that.