I rented my car for a few days on Turo and it returned with this problem. The renter says nothing happened, who knows. When I raise or lower the window, there is a loud pop/crack that happens. It always happens at the same height. I can raise and lower the window for a couple inch around that point and reproduce that sound everythime.
View 6 RepliesI purchased a 2012 Camry SE V6 end of December 2011. I really like the car's performance but have an annoying issue.
Above the driver's position, I hear short popping or cracking sounds when the car is moving and going over bumps or when the road twists. This sounds like a body structural issue and comes from the roof area to the left of the sunroof. This happens less often when it is sunny and more often when it is not sunny so the cooler metal may be the issue. The noise sometimes stops altogether when it is sunny or after the car has been driven for an hour. Once it sits for a couple of hours on an overcast day, the annoying pop/crack will start up again.
The door panel was replaced but the problem continued.
So today, when I rolled down my passenger window (2007 Sonata GLS) to talk to someone, I heard a popping sound and the window refused to roll back up. I got the car home and started tearing into the door panel (okay, not literally). By viewing different threads here, I have the door panel off, outside handle is off, all screws loosened (including the 3 for the door latch) and am trying to get the inner sheet metal panel off.
From everything I've read, you need to roll the window up the whole way in order to get the inner panel off; however I cannot get the window up the whole way! By lifting up on it, I have it about 2/3 raised, but it won't budge any more. I have been able to see that the window cable is broken (which explains why the window won't raise), but am at a loss on how to proceed. I'm leery of trying to force the window up any more. I'm tempted to try to pry the inner panel back enough to get the two bolts holding the window loose, but don't want to force *that* either.
So, how to get the window all the way up? And/or the inner door panel off?
Here's one I haven't heard of before on a Prius:
As I was closing my front driver's side window this afternoon I heard a pop or bang, and I noticed the window was closed, mostly, but it didn't fit right and the top rear of the window was out of the frame, up above where it should be, and the front, sloping portion of the window was below where it should be.
I put it up and down a few times, and eventually managed to coax it back into position, but it didn't stay there when I opened and closed the window again. It feels to me like whatever connects the glass to the motor and gizmoss that lift it up and down has broken or come undone.
I fear that it is a dangerous condition, because the window might pop out completely at high speed. Unlike the last time I remember having a car with a window disconnected from its mechanism (the 60's or so), we no longer have window frames to make sure they stay in place when the machinery breaks. Also, it has always seemed to me that the car's aerodynamic shape puts pressure on the doors and glass at highway speeds.
Anyway, I'm going to get this in to the dealer as soon as possible, but I wanted to ask:
Am I paranoid not to want to drive it at speed until I get it fixed?
I purchased a 1985 celica GTS, convertible, rear wheel drive. I am having a problem with the drivers side power window. I can raise and lower the window with a direct 12v battery hook up to either the lift motor or from the terminals that connect to the switch. The switch will lower the motor but not raise it. When activated to raise the window you can hear the motor enterguise but will not lift. I check the voltage at the switch and I am getting 12 volts. What should I check next?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2012 accent. Left front window rapidly clicks when I try to raise and lower glass and glass won't move.
View 2 RepliesHaving problem with the front electric window sliding out of it's track? My friend's 2001 Accent has been doing this with the driver's window when going up. It gets between about 1/4 to 1/3 closed and suddenly the glass jumps slightly left out of the track on the right-hand side of the door frame.
The drivers door is on the right, it's the tallest part of the door frame it's jumping out from. If the glass is pushed right by hand it pops back into the track and the window can be closed normally.
I've had the door card off and can't see anything broken with the window regulator. With the window down it's possible to rock the glass left and right so something is obviously loose or not holding as it should be, but I can't find any loose or broken clips where the glass is attached to the white plastic thing which holds it onto the central regulator rail, it all looks intact.
I was expecting to find something broken or slack which could be causing this but I really can't.
The drivers side power window in my truck is up and will not lower.
I took off the interior/trim panels. Accessed the power connector for the window motor.
I can hear the relay cycling. when I put a meter on the power connector, I get voltage applied for the "up" condition, no voltage for the "down" function.
Sounds like a bad relay to me. What say the wizards? Where is the relay located?
My son recently purchased this truck in Jan., 2017, upon inspecting the vehicle we noticed the rear driver and passenger windows would not raise or lower. When I asked the seller about this his comments were " I believe it to be a master switch issue". Ok so no big deal, I purchased and replaced the master switch with no luck. I didn't spend much time on it due to the cold weather. After digging into this a little more I'm very confused now. So here is where I currently am at with this issue.
Power is not the problem, I am reading approx. 14V at the master switch and at the rear door switches. I've checked and have power when the switch is toggled to simulate raising and lower of the window (approx. 12 to 13.5V). The window lift motors have been taken out and cleaned and inspected. The motor will operate properly with a 12V battery pack (both motors, driver and passenger side). I have power all the way to the motor itself, slightly less than 14Volts.
I can raise and lower the window in the truck by plugging into the back of the female connector with the outside power source but not with the power supply from the truck. I have continuity between the power(blue) and ground(black) wires at the switches. So this is where I am at, also just a reminder the front windows and door locks work fine. Just a side note, this truck has aftermarket mirrors on it so that branch of the harness is left hanging.
I've been recently very annoyed by a sound I can hear when driving between 5 and 40 mph. It sounds like the window or door seals/weatherstripping is repeatedly losing static friction to a shaking door or window. If I push forcefully outwards on the window the sound seems to be reduced.
I have about 22k miles on the card so far. I'm assuming I should go to a dealership, but I'm afraid some of them will dismiss the problem with some excuse or another.
I have a 2007 Toyota Avalon Limited. For the last three years or so I get a very loud cracking noise from the Radio, I can even turn it off and it continues or gets louder. I took it to the dealer, they think it is some of the speakers. Since are 12 speakers, not sure I want to start replacing them. I thought it might be the amplifier, took to an electronics guys. He took a lot of the car around the radio apart, we could never find the amplifier. I think the amplifier is in the trunk with the GPS Disk Player. If you were going to replace something, would be the radio, amplifier, or? The only way to stop it is to remove the fuse which causes the radio and GPS screen to not work.
View 3 RepliesJust got my 2012 Prius from the body shop. Got hit in the rear where the starting battery is.
Had window control problems since battery was replaced.
Problem is that the driver-side rear window can't be controlled by the driver. It works fine with its own control but not from up front. The light on that windows button is not lit like the others. When pressed it lights and when released it blinks a few times and goes out. I unhooked the starting batter to try and reset things with no luck.
I have a 05 camry that is making popping noises by the drivers side when the wheel is turned once around (left or right) in PARK. Everything looked good to me, I just recently got the car back from a shop.
*The car doesn't pop when it is in motion, because of this, I raised the front of the car to test and see if it would make the popping noise but there no popping noise either.
We have a 2008 NF, and have been experiencing popping noises from the drivers side near the door. Especially when it's been colder out, but in general.
The tie-rod ends, ball joints, and the struts have been replaced. The question is: What we is it likely to be?
The car has ~100k on it, so it was not really to surprising that those items would need to be replaced.
However, since I didn't have time to do it, we had someone else do the eval and work.
Are there any typical issues that stand out with the NF Sonata that would cause this based on what I've told you all?
It's a great car, but this is driving us nuts.
We have had our new 2013 Elantra GLS for one week. The last two days I have been hearing this pop noise on the drivers side. It does it after I turn left but not until the car has straightened up and has reached about 20 miles an hour. It does it only once but it does do it each time I start the car and make a left turn and get up to about 20 miles an hour. Our Sentra makes a noise like this but it is an engine component kicking in so it is normal.
The sound does not come from the wheel area so if this was a normal sound similar to what the Sentra does. The sound is more from the engine level on the drivers side.
The 02 I bought at salvage, drove home but now sits in the driveway stuck in park.
I consulted my owner's manual (for an 03) and found the info on the override button under the driver's side lower panel. Well, I didn't find any small postage stamp sized tab down under the steering wheel adjuster as it shows in the manual. There is a small, postage sized, louvered plate directly underneath the gear shift lever. There is something attached electrical behind it that I saw when I dropped the lower panel.
Is that the switch or am I looking for another beneath the steering wheel ?
I looked over at my car and noticed the driver's rear side of the car sits lower than the other. I tried turning the car around to see if it was the driveway. It was not. I parked the car flat and took a tape measure and measured from the ground to the uppermost part of the wheel well and the rear drivers side is 2 foot 2 inches, the rear passenger side is 2 foot 4 inches. So the one side is sitting 2 inches lower than the other. Could it just be sag from the roads/ only having one person in the car, I'm not light either. Have 56k on the car.
View 7 RepliesPassenger side window not operable from drivers side anymore, with the respective button. However, the windows does work when I try from the passenger side.
View 10 RepliesWe have a 1999 Passat GLX 2.8 auto. I recently put on a new inner and outer tie rod as well as a lower forward control arm. The issue that we are experiencing is that when accelerating or braking hard there is a popping/clunking noise coming from the driver front area. When accelerating or braking normally/ smoothly it is fine. But, as I said accelerate or brake hard it will make a single pop or clunk and that is it, just once when braking hard or accelerating quickly.
View 2 RepliesWhile driving, the drive side door makes a creaking/clunking/rattle/popping noise. Its so damn annoying. It's all the time, if you roll the window down it doesn't do it as loud, but its cold out..
View 24 RepliesIf your experiencing a clicking noise coming from the lower right side of your driver seat, more noticeable over rough roads with pressure applied to the backrest, read on. After much trial and error troubleshooting, here's what worked for me.
I removed the tension on a small clock like spring located on the driver seat back right side pivot point. Since having done so, no more annoying clicking sound and I haven't noticed any difference or adverse side-effect in seat operation /adjustment. I've got photos....