One of the pistons in my driver side (UK) front brake caliper is sticking, so I've bought a second hand caliper just to fix the problem until I come to sell my pri in a month or so.
View 15 Replies2005 Toyota Solara my front driver side caliper was sticking and heating up a couple months ago... replaced the caliper and the rotor... still had the same problem. I would drive it, it got hot and stuck, after I parked for a little while it slowly released. Talked to a couple of mechanics and they both said undoubtedly I had a bad flex hose and it was collapsing with pressure and then will release... I changed the flex hose and flushed the fluid and it was immediately fixed...no problems.
Drove the car for a month, went to South Carolina and back and then a couple days ago the same thing started happening. Talked to a mechanic, he told me that the new caliper may have gotten fried from over heating before I changed the flex hose... Got a new caliper today (warranty) exchange... changed it out and still have the same problem. When it sticks I can release the pressure by opening the bleeder valve so it seems like the flex hose issue again... my only thought now is maybe the new flex hose is a bad one and someone mentioned the proportioning valve.
2001 F250 SD diesel. Brakes have been working fine with no pulling. They just started to squeal recently so I knew it was time for some new pads.
I'm having a problem that seems to plague me often when I try to replace disc brake pads. I can't get the twin pistons to go back in to allow room to get the new, thicker pads in.
I unscrewed the cap to the master cylinder and used a spreading tool (that came in a brake kit from Advance Auto Parts) to compress the pistons. No movement.
I put a lot of force on it. No piston movement.
I unscrewed the bleeder screw and tried again. No movement.
Yesterday, I noticed that my right front brake caliper seemed to be sticking. This morning I jacked up the front end, and could barely turn the right front wheel when it was off the ground. So, I have concluded that that caliper is sticking. So, here is the question(s): what is the best way to repair this (new caliper, rebuilt caliper, or rebuild it myself), do I need to do both sides the same or can I just do the one that is acting up, and should I expect to pay. I have some mechanical ability, but that Haynes manual doesn't make too much sense to me. Getting it professionally repaired is extremely inconvenient, I need to be back at school (300 miles away) Tuesday evening, and probably couldn't get it in to get it done before then.
View 12 RepliesMy 2004 Toyota Highlander with 84K miles has been diagnosed with a seized front driver side brake caliper with worn brake pad (1/32). I had recall work done a few days ago at the dealership and this was discovered afterward during the "complimentary" multi-point check-up. - You know, the long laundry list of recommended work they try to sell you on. Of course the brake work is actually necessary.
Since the vehicle was just inspected 2 months ago at our local shop, my husband suggested I take it back there to verify the diagnosis and see what that mechanic would recommend. That mechanic confirmed and showed me the seized caliper/worn pad, which, by the way, was functioning well in mid January at inspection, and measured 7/32. This mechanic recommends replacing both calipers, pads, turning rotors. There was no indication of a problem with the RF caliper, but he says it's just a good idea to replace it so we would avoid having another problem in the future.
I want to ask everyone's opinion regarding replacement of just the bad caliper vs. both. Are we getting ripped off as far as the estimate and is the flush necessary? Also, is this issue typical in the first place, and what causes a brake caliper to seize? We've had several other vehicles driven many more miles than my Highlander and never experienced a seized caliper.
I have a 2005 chevy malibu maxx. The front driver side brake caliper does not retract unless i open the bleeder screw. if I leave it overnight it will retract until i have to use it a couple times then ill have to open the bleeder screw. I've been told if the piston retracts when i open the bleeder then the caliper is OK. What i should look for? (It does have ABS).
View 2 Replies2000 Ranger, see my sig.
Just had to swap out the pads on my truck yesterday. The pedal was pretty mushy and I was getting shaking in the steering wheel when the brakes got warm. Shaking wasn't all the time, only after they had been used quite a bit - say after city use and the brakes had to be applied suddenly. So I popped off the tires and swapped out the pads and replaced the brake fluid - flushed it.
On the driver side front, the pads barely had any real wear and the anti-rattle clip was all messed up. It was installed properly, but it looked like the pads had smashed into it. The rotor appeared to be warped, or at least out of round - but just barely. You could see it wobble slightly in one spot if you spun the hub with the caliper removed. The caliper itself was sticking slightly.
I didn't see any evidence of damage, the brakes flushed just fine although the fluid was incredibly dirty (because I haven't done it in a long while). On the passenger side front, the pads were worn down to the level I would have expected given the mileage. The wear was even.
My question ultimately is this - is the out of round hub the culprit here? Might there be something else going on like a caliper problem? Ultimately I plan on having the rotors surfaced - one of them certainly needs it and with new pads I might as well do it anyway.
I know this has been talked about many times and how to solve the issue but thought I would ask some other questions too. Earlier in the summer, I did grease the slider pins as preventative maintenance. I don't drive my truck all that much and when I used it yesterday, (about 30 minute drive) I came home to burning brake smell. I'm wondering if enough heat would cause the caliper to go bad? Should I just grease the pins again or change out some parts?
View 6 RepliesI need to do a brake job on the front of my 04 Elantra, how to reset the caliper piston. I've tried the traditional c-clamp method but can't get the clamp to grip well on the non-pad side because of the caliper shape.
View 4 RepliesI heard a grinding noise coming from the right front tire last night. Came home, removed the wheel / tire and noticed the caliper was stuck pushing the pads against the rotor. I pushed the caliper pistons back in so they're not frozen, just sticking.
View 14 RepliesI have already changed the pads, rotors, and calipers on both front brakes. Now it was sticking so bad the other day it was smoking from being so hot. Its not making me come to a full stop but the pads are sitting on the rotor even when I took the tire off. Could it be something simple? Or is the last thing to change the master cylinder?
View 6 RepliesI have an 05 with a seized front caliper. What other vehicle has the same one? Does 4 runner or any other Toyotas have the same caliper?
View 5 RepliesThis is my second time posting for the same issue on a 2003 3.5L with 120,000+ miles. Rear driver side brake caliper is stuck again. I have replaced both rear calipers after the driver side stuck a few months back. So most likely the first time was caused by something else.
What else could be causing this? Brake line, master cylinder, or other? I did not replace any brake lines the last time this happened. Just calipers and pads.
Have 50,000 mile on my 2011 F350 6.7 and up until today the truck has been flawless. This is my weekend vehicle and sees very light duty hauling fishing gear to my boat (100 miles hwy) and pulling my 7x12 enclose trailer with goose decoys. On a couple of occasions pulling my 29 CC from marina to my home and back. Took truck in for oil change and tire rotation, service advisor informs me I have 2mm on rear brakes and 3mm on fronts. Not sure why rears have more wear than fronts. Schedule to have brakes done for today and now find out that front right caliper is sticky and they want to replace both front calipers. I cannot believe that a 2011 SD F350 with 50,000 miles and of that mostly highway needs brakes let a lone calipers are going bad. Service manger tried to tell me that brake fluid should be replaced every 2 years, to which I responded that I have Ford perform all scheduled maintenance. He went on to say that this is not scheduled maintenance, wtf bs is he telling me, if it is necessary then it would be scheduled maintenance. Truck gave zero indication of stuck caliper, no sound and no excessive brake dust on wheel.
View 14 RepliesI just hit a pothole on my way home just now and now my front right caliper is sticking. It happen about 10min from my house. As soon as i hit the pothole I can feel my truck pulling to the right and felt like there was some resistance when i was driving. I got home and peeked my head in the wheel-well and i can smell the brakes burning and smoking a little. How would hitting a pothole cause a caliper to stick. Is there anyway to unstick it or am i gonna have to change that caliper out...
View 8 RepliesI have a leak from the rear driver caliper, it seems to come from behind the bolts that hold the emergency brake to the caliper (I had my wife push the pedal repeatedly so I could find the issue). I haven't been able to remove the retaining bolts (the allen head bolt doesn't want to play) to see what the issue might be.
View 18 RepliesIt's time to replace the struts at 205,000 miles. Driver front is sticking and creaking. The dust boot was all ripped up. Either way the car is pretty boaty but I've never had a fresh Prius to compare it too. I got my car with 186K. I'd love to firm up the ride a bit but do see too many options. I see KYB GR2's, Monroe and Gabriel struts available. The car could use about 20% stiffer springs and some bigger sway bars. Any interchangeablilty with Corollas? They should have made a Prius S from the factory.
View 4 RepliesI changed the rear brake pads on my 2002 Elantra and the caliper pistons would not retract to fit over the pads. After 11 years of weather exposure the pistons were frozen. I removed the calipers, soaked the pistons with WD-40 and penetrating oil and heated the housing with a hair dryer. Doing this periodically for a day I got the pistons to break free. I removed the pistons for inspection and they were severely corroded. I ordered two rebuilding kits on line which included all seals and pistons.
The pistons are threaded and screw into a threaded rod inside the housing. Should I thread the pistons in until they bottom out, or should I turn them out until they touch the inner brake pad?
I pulled into my driveway after a 30 minute drive and smelled burning brakes. The right front was the culprit so I took a garden hose and cooled it down. The next day I remove the caliper and one of the pistons fell apart. So I need a new caliper and trying to decide if I buy after market or go with Motorcraft? I think the rotor, caliper, and pads are original since I the rotor is stamped Ford and the caliper bracket has TRW and Ford markings.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2001 ex. 4x4 6.8 v10. I have been having vacuum issues and brake issues lately. My front brakes seem to be sticking, some times they drag some times the don't squeeze when I step on the brake causing uneven wear and pulling when I stop. Also feels like I have no power assist. I also have a vacuum issue with the auto setting on the hubs, they don't engage I have to manually lock them and sometimes my a/c stays on defrost. And my cruise control doesn't work, the light comes on and love done the self check but it doesn't show anything is wrong. Could I have a bad brake booster?
View 5 RepliesI just picked up an R32 a couple weeks ago, and I've noticed that occasionally when using the remote door locks that the driver's door refuses to lock/unlock. When locking, the alarm doesn't arm as I assume the car doesn't think the door is closed. When unlocking, well, it just doesn't unlock. In both cases if I use the key in the door, everything works nicely.
View 10 Replies