Prius (Gen 2) :: Optima Battery Installation Process
Mar 16, 2011
I have the part number for the battery. It is a series D51 Optima # N9951 YEL ( Napa auto parts )$149.00. You need a new positive post bracket with stud attached (standard post size, since the old one is smaller than normal) and a universal ground bracket with the clamp for a wire install. Cut off the ground clamp ( old one) and install the wire to new one. Look at the positive post ( old one ) and get a new one with the same configuration with the post bolt. Unbolt the positive unit from the old bracket and install new one. The Optima is the same size as the old one so everything goes back under the cover. It is a non vented battery so you do not need the hose hooked up to it.
If you are not good with electrical connections get the terminal kit . Then it is just a matter of unbolting the battery and replacing the cables , connectors and your done.
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I wonder if I could remove the SOS system and install eyeglass holder in its place?
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I really want to put Viper into my car, the remote start and security system. I was thinking about putting in the 5901 or 5704 in, is there a difference?
Should I get the extra accessories like the audio sensor and tilt sensor? And I'll probably need a transponder bypass module with it too?
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I have a 2009 GS350.
Its Satellite radio ready, meaning it has a SAT button and it has the shark fin antenna on the roof. When you push the SAT button nothing happens. I was told I need to get the unit installed. I am assuming all the wires are run through the car and its just a simple plug and play, but I'm thinking that would be too easy. Also where does the unit get installed? Where to even look to see if the wires are there.
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By hooking it directly to the battery, putting the solar panel in the sun to keep it fully charged? It's 1.5 watts. 12 volts. It has a built in over charge protection.
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I am trying to retrofit my Prius to allow a secondary battery to be tested while another battery is actually installed in place. I don't need to do this, but we are so sick of taking batteries in and out of the car for testing purposes. I don't want to reinvent the wheel if it isn't necessary!
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been having problems with my optima yellowtop that is less than 1 year old. Sometimes my car starts fine, sometimes it won't until I jump it.
Spoke to Bernie from elearnaid (who I bought it from) and he says with my short driving habits (10min to work, 10min home) that the battery isn't getting a full charge from my engine because of the short commute...
also now my immobilizer (smart key) won't unlock doors without using keyfob or start car without keyfob in slot...
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I purchased a new battery for my 2008 Chevy Equinox and have it installed. After they installed it, my car radio would not turn on at all. The clock on the radio interface had been reset to 12:00 when they disconnected the battery, but I could not reset the clock to the appropriate time after installation. After doing some research, I came up with two scenarios to look into:
-the fuse was damaged;
-or, the removal of the battery triggered a security lock down on the car radio that requires a code to be inputted to make it operable again.
I checked the fuse, and it worked fine. I looked up the security lockdown item in the manual, and it explicitly noted that if this were to be the case, the interface would clearly indicate the word "LOCKED." The interface does not indicate this. The only thing the interface indicates is the time, which is incorrect.
Are there any hypotheses as to why my car radio is now inoperable? And are there any suggested solutions for resolving this?
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Not near my truck at the time and wondering if I can install one of these switches. I don't know where the 2 positive battery cables meet.
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I just installed a new positive cable set for the dual battery's and the starter checks out good.
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My 2008 Expedition seems to have a problem shifting correctly when it first is driven for the day. As I start and start to drive down my street, it begins the shifting process and seems to stick as it tries to shift. Once it gets through this first cycle, it never does it again until the next day when I first drive for the day. Is this something I need to correct, or just live with?
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Where to check my trans fluid level and looking for info on changing the fluid (The process). I'm pretty familiar with mechanics and changing fluids this is just my first time on this car.
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Is there a way to disengage the side mirrors from turning downward during the reversing process?
Last weekend, I found it very difficult to see my JetSki trailer while backing down the boat ramp.
And no, the monitor does not work in this situation.
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06 6.0... Ive replaced hpop, lpop, stand pipes and dummy plugs and injector cup o rings are on the way. What else could it be???
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My Treg has about 3K miles on it right now, and since I picked it up, the brakes have squealed (some times VERY loud, some times just a slight squeak at the end of the braking process). It is currently in the shop for the second time to get a fix for this or an adjustment, and I just got a call from my service advisor telling me there is nothing they can do to quiet the brakes--it is the nature of brakes to squeak and squeal.
I realize that brake dust (and man, there is a lot of that on this vehicle) can make the brakes squeal a bit, but does it even make sense that they would tell me that brakes are supposed to squeal?
I am also having a sticking door handle and a defective ac/heat control issue looked at while the Treg is in (I can illuminate both the "auto" and "econ" buttons at the same time, instead of one switching the other off). Should a vehicle at this price point have noisy brakes?
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So last night I was on a 55 MPH road that has a gradual right curve, that ends up at a stop sign in a T intersection of a major highway. I was in the process of slowing down when the engine all of a sudden died. Then the brakes and steering went as stiff as can be. I made the curve and was able to stop at a semi decent location. After checking my shorts. I tried to restart it and it would only run a few seconds with rpm's jumping all over the place. the check oil light would flash and then the engine would die.
I was able to get it to move like 20 feet to the side of the road. The major problem is the bumper to bumper warranty was up 6 months ago. So I just had it towed home. Now it's time to figure out what exactly is wrong with it. I tried to borrow a code reader from the local parts store. But none of the ones by me will lend them out anymore. This is also my only vehicle for the time being. I have had the vehicle since feb of 2009. It is a 4.6L 3v engine and only has 27000 miles on it. I have read a few things online about them stalling.
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I have a 2005 V8 and in getting my latest service, a bunch of recalls were completed on the vehicle which seemed to screw up the locking/unlocking of the doors. In the past, the doors unlocked without having to hit any of the buttons on the key fob, but now, I get a 'chirp' from the car when I lock it, and have to click the unlock button once for the front doors and twice for the back doors. Is there anyway to revert back to the old way where just having the key close to the door unlocked it?
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Maybe I am paranoid, but recently I pushed power close button on the lift gate and a family member then also pushed the lift gate shut. Is it possible that the lift gate is broken now? It seems to work fine, but if I listen carefully I can hear some what seems to be grinding noises at the very top. Do the other RX power tailgates make a consistent sound throughout the open and close process.
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Trying to install LED Light Bar on Prius?
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Where is the oil filter located on a 2006 1/2 Kia Optima EX V6?
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My passenger side low beam head light is dim. I changed the bulb and still have the same issue. High beams are ok.
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