Prius (Gen 2) :: Most Common Check Engine Light (CEL) Or DTC Codes?
Apr 19, 2011
I've had a 2005 Prius for almost 2 year and 50,000 miles now and had no problems. Recently I decided to do an inverter recall and them some "necessary" maintenance (TB, transaxle fluid, etc). How I have an intermittent CEL, P1112 (Intake air temp sensor) coming on every other day. Before I thought Autozone had another DTC detected (1121 It had something to do with a coolant stacked too high?)
What are the most common check engine light (CEL) or DTC codes and how to deal with them?
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My '05 Prius check engine light has been on for a while now, at first it would turn on for a while then turn off but now it is staying on. I took it to AutoZone and they ran a diagnostic and it returned the codes P1121, P1123, P1150, P1116.
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I have a 2005 Prius with 131k miles. The check engine light came on. I had my mechanic check for codes, he had 3different scanners. There were no codes posted. Next day light went off. It has been off for a week. Now it has returned.
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I have a 2008 Prius that I purchased used last year. It has just shy of 139,000 miles on it. Recently the check engine light came on, and I dropped by AutoZone to have them pull the codes. They are as follows:
C1241
P1121
P3193
I haven't been able to find a full explanation of the codes online, so I need to know what they mean, how much it would cost to fix, and how urgent the repair is. I will be going on a 5 1/2 hour road trip next week, so I want to make sure I'm not going to break my car (or myself!) by doing so with the engine light on.
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My check engine light comes on intermittently, fuel consumption normal. I have not had any noticeable performance issues. I took it to O'Rielly's for a scan but they could not establish a connection to get a readout. Is there a special scan tool needed? The on board Lan Monitor shows EMV codes below, are they meaningful in any way?
Code Sub-code
01-DC 190-38-5
01-D5 190-52-F
01-D8 190-35-1
01-DB 190-11-F
01-DB 110-21-2
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I have a 2002 Prius that needs work. The red triangle, PS, and check engine light are all on. It has these codes:
P3100 - 175 (HV ECU internal error. Motor Inverter Current Sensor Malfunction)
p3125 - 287 (Motor Inverter Finv. Inverter Internal Short)
c1259 (HV System Regenerative Malfunction)
I suspect the inverter or even worse the MG2 has burnt windings.
BTW the "infamous" inverter pump seems to be working. I can hear it and see the fluid in the reservoir move.
I suspect it is more a symptom than a problem and will disappear when the real problem is fixed.
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Just last week I bought a 2007 prius from a local dealership in Houston. The check engine light recently turned on and had it checked out by an auto parts store. The codes they read were the p1116 and p1121 (issues with the coolant valve). I know it would cost much to replace the valve, and I am not wanting to pay that much, especially since i just bought the car. I'd also be willing to fix it myself if i had some guide or step by step instructions...
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Just tried to leave for work and my check engine light came on. Luckily I just got a scangauge and the error codes are P0441 and P0445. I checked online and for regular Prius is says it could be the fuel system, fuel cap, etc. I'm scared to drive it now and wonder if I should call Toyota Care to tow my car to service.
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My check engine light came on the other day, with no symptoms or problems. Today I stopped at the Auto Parts store and had the codes read. They were P0440, P0441, P0446, and P0301. They are for the EVAP system and misfire.
I had read here that one of the codes could be for the gas cap so I tightened it and then, also as read on here, disconnected the negative 12 V battery cable to perhaps clear the check engine light. I was curious.
When I started the car again, I now have not only the check engine light, but the red triangle exclamation point. How would you proceed? The 12 volt battery is around 5 years old. The entire exhaust system was replaced last year.(not O2 sensors though)
The hybrid battery was replaced at 70,000 miles and I now have 110,000 miles on it. I really wonder why disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it caused more error lights to appear? Also, the Auto parts guy said his code reader was fine for my car but I seem to remember here that there may be a special Prius one.
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Alright, so I was driving along and everything was fine, I had no error lights and the car was running perfectly. I accidentally went over a lip of this parking lot a little too fast and all of a sudden the check engine light came on!!! I took it to Jiffy Lube and the codes I got were : c1253, c1311, p0011, and p0012. Is my car safe to drive tomarrow? Are these super expensive to fix? Could they have been set off from the curb?
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I have a 2010 Tiguan and the check engine light has come on. When I use my ODB scan tool it doesn't find any codes and the check engine light won't go on. What might be the problem?
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I have a 2002 volvo S60 2.4T that I just had the check engine light come on so I pulled the codes and here is what I found,
PO403
PO611
P1378
P2623
So my question is what does this mean ? what is wrong ?
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The Check Engine Light is on. Diagnostic Codes: P0722, P1618, and P1633. Do these mean the output speed sensor/connector wires should be replaced? Is this a DIY job?
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My '04 santa fe 3.5 v6 gls/lx, 79k miles, gas, auto, check light has just come on while I was driving a less than 10 mile journey. How can I check what is wrong. Do I need some sort of diagnostic code checker. Do any national outlets check it for free (Pep Boys or Auto Zone, etc).
Just 5 days ago (about 50 miles only) I had timing belt, water pump, plugs and leads replaced, brakes checked and lubes flushed; BUT not at above dealers. I would rather know what the code is saying before I go back to the shop who carried out the work.
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The light just came on in my 06 Sonata 3.3L, showing many codes... P0171B, P0172B, P2187, P2188, P0174B, P0175B, P2189, and P2190. All of these just came on at once, within the last hour. Everything that is stated is regarding Too Lean or Too Rich on Bank's 1 & 2. Where to start on this...
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The car was misfiring and the check engine light codes were all sensor coils were bad. Lexus told me that it was coil6 bad and they fixed it. I should have had no problems, I got a whole 2 miles and I misfired and engine light back on. I drove for a while and light went off and then misfired again. Before I bring it back in I was looking for some insight. I can't understand how it wasn't fixed right the first time but I don't want to go back and get a few thousand bill either. Could fixing one coil cause another to go bad.
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A couple of weeks ago the check engine light came on and when I had the codes checked it showed a problem with the EGR valve. I replaced it and the light went off. A week later the check engine light came back on but when I had the error codes checked there weren't any. After a few days the light went off but earlier today it came back on. There are still no error codes.
I forgot to mention that it's a 2000 Camry, 6-cyl.
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Check engine light on, these are the codes, can't find anywhere? Seems to run fine. '07 fsi V-8.
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I've replace the input and output transmission speed sensors on my 01 GLS. check engine light is on again for 2 P0501 codes. There is no abs speed sensor on the left side but there is on the right side which doesn't look like it is seated correctly. The transmission is still shifting kinda funny sometimes. Should I have abs speed sensors on both sides? And what else should I do to fix the random erratic shifting?
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My check engine light popped up the other day and when ran, 3 codes popped up: p2414, p2195, and p0170. From what I could gather it looks to be the O2 sensor is bad. This would be the one on the exhaust manifold, correct?
Also, what would cause the o2 sensor to go bad in the first place? My 09' has roughly 65k miles.
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My 2008 just showed the light at 108,000 kms. Its a long drive to the dealers. My old Hondas would flash a code number in the instrument cluster if I shorted out a pin under the dash. Is there a way to do this with the Fe?
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