Prius (Gen 2) :: Metal Hardware Pieces For Brakes Have Broken
Jun 3, 2016
The little metal hardware pieces for my brakes since I've had the car they have broken three times within a year recently. A mechanic who was the last to replace them said the brake pads were fine and wasn't sure why they keep breaking. Going to add a picture of the piece I'm talking about.
When driving my Prius when below 40 mph the two front tire area makes an awful clanking sound because of the hardware breaking.
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My right front tire has been making a noise like 2 pieces of metal are touching. Not quite a grinding but maybe more like a squealing. It starts slowly at low speeds and then faster at high speeds. If I brake the sound goes away, but then slowly starts coming back. What this might be?
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The metal key that comes out of the Key Fob is broken, is it replaceable from anywhere other than Toyota? The key fob is perfectly fine no issues with it.
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At 75K my passenger side rear brakes were making metal on metal sound. I was really surprised as I have always learned that the front brakes take 80% of load and they always go out before the backs. So I took the wheel off and sure enough the pads were metal on metal. Changed everything out. (new rotors). I then went over to the driver side rear brake. Looks brand new. The pistons were barely out. I figured this caliper is bad. (I haven't change yet)
When I drive I can hear a very faint metal on metal sound when I brake. VERY FAINT. So with 75K miles on I figure the front brakes are due. Today I took the wheels off and inspected them. Tons of pad left on both of them. If I didn't know better I would say a brake job had been done very recently. (I've owned the car new so I know they have not had a brake job) However after reading many articles on this site I found a thread where one user said he was changing his front brakes for the first time with 110K on them and the pads still had 10K left in them. So the fact that my front pads are still pristine at 75K may not be a big deal (or not as big as I thought. Also I am not hard on brakes.)
However I'm not sure what is going on. Why would the passenger rear brake be metal on metal at 75K and the three other pads are like new. Is the passenger rear the only one working (or working much harder than the others) meaning the other three are bad? Or is the rear passenger bad and the other three are good? I have a working knowledge of cars but I am by no means a mechanic.
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I picked my R up three weeks ago tomorrow. I took it in this morning because there has been brake noise from day one. The noise was a scraping, metal on metal sound that diminished a fair amount when the brakes were warm. I only got a very brief conversation with the service agent at the dealership this afternoon, and all he told me is that they had to order in new brakes. I don't know if it's just pads, or calipers or rotors or the whole deal! I'll get the whole scoop tomorrow.
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The brakes were sounding like metal on metal. Three wheels in, some of the pads needed replaced but none were worn out. I got to the right rear wheel and the inside pad is worn to the bracket but the outside pad hardly looks worn at all.
I'm already replacing rotors, pads and calipers (I wasn't going to replace the rear rotors or calipers until I got to this wheel). Is there anything else I need to check because of such uneven pad wear?
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This has happened a few times in the last 3 months. Maybe I'm just beginning to notice or something is wrong with my Prius.
I put the brakes on and all of a sudden it's like I can't stop. Yesterday I thought I was going to hit someone. I have noticed that it is usually if there's a metal object on the street-- a railroad track or manhole cover.
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I'm pretty sure I know what the problem is since when I hit the brakes it stops. When I took the left side tire off and right side I compared and there is a thin metal sheet that has room to move on the right, but is tight on the left. When the brakes were done before maybe it didn't seat correctly or something. Just wondering what that plate is called so I can order one and change it. Driven that way 2 years, but it bugs me when the window is down and people probably think my car is falling apart. Maybe I'll search for a brake diagram.
Edit: I think they might be called "anti squeal shims". I saw a picture of them, so maybe they didn't put enough high temp grease, but the left side is tight and the rights side you can move a couple milometers side to side so I'm sure that's the jingling noise.
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Have a 95 aero E4wd. Have replace driver side cv axle and drove about 8 miles then the outer joint broke. Had mech change cv axle and drove about 2 miles and the inside broke.. Same mech replace it and drove 3 mile and heard like rubber on metal like a flat tire. The cv axle did not break and won't turn when in gear. Back to shop with aero. Lifted on lift and jacked up front and rear. Turned the driver side and the passenger turned with it also it turned easy. Started it up and placed in gear, all were rotation except driver side , it was hung up. What should be fixed on diff?
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I commute 180 miles a day, 6 days a week. I noticed metal on metal grinding noise(more noticeable) at high speed above 75mph especially on asphalt road. I'm sure noise is there at low speed but not enough to notice. My car has 50,000 miles. Tires? Electric motor?
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I recently worked on a 2006 with 140K miles that presented with the following symptoms:
The hybrid battery was at 1 bar; the ICE would not start; the car was in Ready, but there were no codes. As I let it roll off the flatbed wrecker in Neutral, it felt lumpy. If you have ever pushed a car (or run out of gas in one) with a manual transmission that was in a high gear, engine off, it felt just like that.
I popped the hood and could see that the engine crank was turning while the car was being pushed in Neutral. What else turns with the wheels? MG2, or more specifically, the MG2 ring gear. What is the only way that the wheels could turn the ICE crank? The planetary carrier pinions were locked to the ring gear.
Surprisingly, while I was looking at things, it did manage to start the ICE pushing it around must have freed the carrier pinions, so I let it charge the hybrid battery. It was basically the worst metal-to-metal noise that I have ever heard! I pulled the drain plug and saw about a teaspoonful of large metal chips on the magnet. The fluid condition itself was very good, not the black factory fill that I am used to seeing come out.
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I have a 2011 Prius with about 32K miles on it. I've been hearing light metal on metal grinding noise for a few days now. So I decided to take it to a stealership and they told me my ceramic pads and brake rotors both need to be replaced for all 4 wheels. I thought Prius brakes don't need to be replaced for 100K miles.
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I have a question about my C Four with 16" wheels. When the steering wheel goes all the way to a stop there is a thunk that feels like metal on metal. It is like there is no rubber bump stops. If this is normal. I am used to cars that have a nice cushioned bump at the steering limits.
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I own a 2010 Toyota Prius that recently developed a metal-on-metal whining scraping sound when moving. It does not make sound when the vehicle is stationary, and it's intermittent - which makes me discount the rock-in-disc-rotor idea (not eliminate it, mind you). It's quite loud when it occurs, able to hear it over the stereo. Luckily I was near work at the time, so I went there - but the shop can't even look at it until Monday evening - so I am a bit panicked.
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My automatic shift selector was extremely loose. Wasn't the two bolts up behind the dash. Turns out that there is a metal cylinder with a cutaway that seems to have fallen out of the selector housing. One of the edges of this cylinder broke off as you can see in this pic:
What is this piece called and can I get a replacement at autozone/pepboys/ect?
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Looking for specs or diagram or instruction on how to take the dash pieces off to change them out and put back on? is it just pull off snap back on?
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I've had the Treg for about 3.5 months now and at about 1500 miles I started to have intermittent squealing from the brakes. Now at 2300 its constant. I brought it to the dealer and of course all I get is the usual BS they feed everyone... brake pads today don't use asbestos and so the metal squeaks...blah, blah... total crap. No OEM brakes should squeal (let alone on a $40k vehicle) and its never been a problem with other cars with original pads. Is there a solution?
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i wrench on kids car. have done all 4 brakes in last 5 yrs. kid said front brakes were noisy. 06/01. 1 pad was worn thru to backing plate. messed up rotor. i decided to replace both rotors since cost was minimal. piston in caliper was stiff. decided to change caliper 1 week later. yesterday kid said rear brakes were noisy. rear discs. 1 pad was down to metal. replaced pads. rotor looks rough. other rotor is ok. need to get 1 new rotor. should i change both? pistons in calipers pushed in easy. feel smooth. caliper pins look fine.
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I have a '06 F150 King Ranch with a after market lift. I sometimes hear a cracking, metal stress sounding noise from under the right side under carriage, I thought is was my brakes or shocks or something. If I take a right turn down an angle while braking or it happened during a rainy day going straight at a slight downward incline during braking, there's a knocking like pac..pac..pac..pac sound from under my rear or sometimes front passenger side fender well. I've taken it to a brake specialist and had it inspected by a mechanic, but no visible signs of a problem. What this might be? I told my brake specialist to check my anti lock system as the sound is evenly spaced and he said nothing is wrong.
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I have a 2007 hyundai sonata, this car is my daily driver. I put 180 miles on it a day around trip. Currently has 180,200 miles on it. Last Friday on my trip home when i turned right I heard a metal on metal sound. I slowed down went straight and it went away. Talked to a few people and I think it may be the wheel bearing. Even if I hit a road reflector it starts up. It's the front left wheel. Get on the breaks it goes away.
So my question is... Wheel bearing??? And can I replace the whole hub and fix the problem or do I have to try and press the bearing out?
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I got some coilovers installed last night, they are ksports. i have them on fairly low height as of now but i have noticed every time I hit bumps, I hear a kthunk (metal hitting metal noise) from my front driver side. is it from the coilover nuts itself or something wrong with my control arm? the sound ONLY comes from the front DRIVER side.
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