Prius (Gen 2) :: Low Beam And Both FOBS Quit Working At Same Time
Mar 29, 2011
I have a problem with my 2007 Prius. The low beam and both FOBS for the car quit working at the same time. It worked the previous day as always, then the next morning, the car would not automatically unlock and had to use the FOB mechanical key for entry. Then I noticed that the headlights (LOW)would not turn on, but the high beams worked fine. Just an FYI I have changed the headlights on this car at least 3 times in the past 4 years.
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Troubleshooting a headlight problem on a 2004 V8 Touareg. Driver's side xenon low beam flickered rapidly and then quit working. I replaced xenon bulb with OEM part, still not working. Swapped in known good bulb from passenger's side, still not working. Took to dealership, who said it needed new ballast, which dealer would be happy to install for a mere $900 in parts and labor. Declined dealer's offer, ordered new replacement OEM ballast (from Chrysler dealer for several hundred less than VW), installed new ballast, still not working. Cleared all fault codes using VAG-COM, still not working. Swapped in known good ballast from passenger's side headlight, still not working. Auto-leveling is still working in both lights. So...not the bulb, not the ballast. Wiring harness, perhaps?
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New batts in remotes (remotes do nothing but do start the car when inserted in dash).
12 volt batt removed and tested good at autozone.
Tried the "key" button under steering wheel in both positions still not working..
Checked all fuses under the hood, all OK ...all other items in the car seem to work..
None of the exterior black buttons work..
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I have a 2005 Santa Fe, and both power mirrors quit working at the same time. I plugged in a different switch, and still nothing. I checked the 10 amp fuse under the dash and that was good (is there a different one). The locks still work though.
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My 2 remotes quit working at the same time. Tried to reprogram following method on the forum, but I dont get the lock/unlock on the 8th key cycle.
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I've got a UK 2003 Phaeton (78Kmiles). Picked it up 6 months ago and have put 8K miles on it with no issues at all until...
The key fobs just stopped working. Car was supplied with two fobs and both stopped working. Replaced the batteries to no avail. Press any of the buttons = light on the key works but the car ignores it totally. (even right next to it)
I can use the key for entry / lock /,alarming, but it's really not cricket for such a fine automocar.
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A few months ago I'm key fobs stopes working the I switched out the batteries and still no progress. What it could be?
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I replaced the batteries in my key fob yesterday, and now it doesn't work. My car has no accessible exterior key holes, due to the trunk lock being seized as long as I've owned it, as well as the drivers door lock having the exterior plastic cap(is there a lock still hiding under there?) So instead, I hopped in through the sunroof since I had left it open, and once I opened the door the alarm went off. I disconnected the battery, and when I reconnect it, the immobiliser resets. I assume that my fobs have reset, so with there being no exterior locks and no fobs programmed, what should I do? The car is not driveable at all right now, and I can't even close the sunroof in case it rains.
Some additional details:
2000 Golf 2.0 VIN WVWBA21J0YW745218
Fobs are HLO 1JO 959 753 F
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My Mom used my Ex to take the kids to the park today. When I went to unlock it with the fob.... NOTHING! I thought maybe a bad battery, but when I got home and tried the other one it didn't work either. Is there a fuse or something that would have gone bad? Everything else in the truck is working fine except for the remotes.
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This morning a dash light informed me a headlight bulb was out. It was my DTR light on the passenger side.
I purchased Sylvania H7 high intensity, installed it and it failed to work properly. Daytime light on only drivers side works.
High Beam on , both lights works.
I checked my manual and it said to check fuse in the 5 slot on the driver side dash/door panel and there actually is no fuse in there. I checked the driver side and there was no fuse there either.
I replaced my driver side bulb last year and it took 5 mins....i am already 4 hours into this!
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Tonight the wife when she got home set the car's alarm off and after she turned it off none of our remote starter fobs will function (lock, unlock, alarm..)
The factory fobs still work fine.
Am I stuck going back to Hyundai to get the remote starter fobs fixed ?
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I have a 2008 Prius 2 that has suddenly developed a problem with the headlights. The lights will function on high but will not work on low. Are they hid? I have checked the fuses and relay. Really at a loss here. Not really wanting to spend a fortune at the dealership.
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My high beam indicator in my dash is not working, I pulled the bulb and checked it and it is fine, so I did a voltage test and I am only getting 1.5 volts at the light terminals, I should be getting 12 volts. Is there a wiring diagram someone has so i can see if it is the dash display itself or that I could trace back to the switch to see if it is something in the headlight switch? or What it could possibly be. other than that, everything else works.
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My 2010 nav went bad this weekend on the road. It says it does not see my DVD. If you eject it and put it back in, it will sometimes, rarely come on a few seconds then back to not seeing the DVD. How to fix it?
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I have a 2001 Prius with almost 224,000 miles. It has never had any power steering problems during the 7.5 years that I have owned it. About 10 days ago during a heavy rain, I parked it nose down on a driveway that was steeply inclined. The next morning when I started it there was no power steering. I find that the un-powered steering is not all that bad to drive. About like a 1939 Ford. Correction requires replacing the entire steering system, including the rack. Can I use the steering system from a 2003 to avoid recurrence of the problem? If so, does the replacement process differ from using a 2001 system?
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Recently we plugged an inverter in to the car charger receptacle in the front dasboard to run our laptop while on the road. It stopped working and now the receptacle will not run our cell phone charger, either.
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I have a 2007 with navigation. The display quit working. My first thought was perhaps a fuse blew. Which fuse I should look at?
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OK so about a week ago the A/C quit working in my 2006 Prius. The center display still works, A/C light comes on, blower works, hot air comes out. I had the system checked (I have access to a shop) and the system is still showing charged, so no leaks.
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I noticed today that my cruise control quit working. Car has about 58K miles, the "cruise" light comes on when the button on the end of the switch is pushed in, but the device itself doesn't work.
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I have a 2006 Prius that I purchased with no upgrade on the headlights. There was an upgrade available for high intensity lights, but, I didn't get them. The low beam on the passenger side headlight just stopped working. Two questions:
1. I was just told by the Toyota dealership that to replace the headlight, the entire front end of the car would need to be dropped. They just told me that with them supplying the bulbs, the cost would be about $250 plus tax. If I supply the bulbs, only about $200 plus tax. My owners manual indicates that this is a do-it-yourself project. Is this true or is the dealership trying to make money off of me?
2. When I do replace the lights, I would like to put in something that would put out more light than what I have now. I have been told to be careful because many replacement lights throw off so much heat that the housing around the bulb could melt. Also, I have read that some of these replacement bulbs have a very short working lifetime of 1-2 years. Obviously, I would want to keep away from them.
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My girlfriend has a 2006 prius with two fobs, one fob works just fine opens/closes doors and red led illuminates, the other fob does not; I have replaced the cr 2032 battery, and verified that the battery works with a voltmeter. no battery energizes this fob as determined by depressing the membrane switches and NOT seeing any red led illumination. I could possibly fix the circuit if I could separate the two plastic housings.
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