Prius (Gen 2) :: List Of Error Codes, Cruise Control Won't Work
May 30, 2015
This is a 2006 prius with 180k on it, that we have had since 2007 and it has been wrecked. (hit a deer) It had problems when the coolant flow control was hooked up in reverse after it got back from the body shop, but the toyota dealership fixed it. 12v battery replaced a year ago and showing 12.7v with no drain and 11.9 with a drain, on the onboard monitor.
My wife got gas yesterday and after restarting the prius, the dash lit up like a Christmas tree. ESV, Check Engine, RED TRIANGLE of Impending Doom. It was also sluggish(hybrid drive didn't seem to work, only gas) and did not seem to charge the battery. Also the battery fan was very loud but working fine. These were the same symptoms exhibited when the flow valve was reversed. Also the battery was showing 1 bar of charge when she got home. The cruise control would also not work.
So now, I take it to the parts store and connect the computer and get these codes
c1289 MV System Regen Malfunction Current
1310 Malfunction system current
p0a80 Replace Hybrid Battery
P3022 Battery Block 12 weak
p1116 Coolant temperature sensor stack
p1121 coolant flow control valve
I know that the p0a80 is bad and the p3022 means there is a weak cell, but I am having trouble here:
On the way back from the store, the hybrid battery charged into the green, which it WOULD NOT do earlier, but the hybrid drive did not seem to be pulling the car. The car cranks and gas engine runs fine.
I was wondering quite a few things here.
Would the coolant codes be remnants of the last problem and not deleted from last time?
The codes had no date that I saw.
Its just that all these errors and symptoms together make no sense when I am trying to troubleshoot and figure out a course of action.
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The 12v battery is 3 1/2 years old.
I rebuilt the HV battery in May 2015. I replaced 3 modules and took the pack through 3 charge/discharge cycles using Hybrid Automotive grid charger and simple discharger. I also cleaned the cooling fan.
All was fine for a month or so. Then I got the trouble lights but the obdlink I had wouldn't show the codes. I noticed a decrease in mileage and a slight hesitation upon acceleration from a stop.
I finally got the mini vci and a win xp laptop to find the codes:
P3000
P0A82
C1310
After maybe a week or so, the ICE wouldn't start and, being busy, I parked it for a while. About a month later, I pulled codes:
P0AA6 with detail codes 526 and 613
P3000 with detail code 123
P0A82 with no detail codes but it indicates "hybrid battery pack cooling fan 1 performance/stuck off.
I connected the grid charger and the HV fan engaged, as it should. I cleared codes and took a drive, while monitoring with Techstream. I watched the fan modes climb to 6, during driving and idling, over about a half hour period. Not sure if this means anything, but I've read that people can hear the fan from the driver's seat when it's running at 3 or 4- I forget which. Well, at 3, or maybe 4, I couldn't hear it. Even standing at the rear door, with my ear against the vent. Though, there was ICE and parking lot noise to contend with. Once it got to 6, I could hear it easily.
Battery health, at that time: With fan at 6, temp of batt tb1 through tb3 was 51.6 c, 56.5 c, 50.4 c.
Battery blocks voltage ranged from 16.05 to 16.15. Internal resistance ranged from .024 to .026 ohms.
Out of necessity, I've been driving this car again, for months now. The lights came back and the codes were still P3000 with detail code 123, P0A82 with the addition of C1310. I don't see a detail code in the same place but there is a field that says "detailed freeze DTC 156". I assume this may be a detail or sub code. Nothing has been preventing me from starting the car. But months ago there had been 2 occasions when, after having driven several miles and parked for a short time, then taking the freeway home, the car would idle high going up an overpass. On these occasions, the MFD shows a low SOC with only one purple bar. The first time this happened, it took around 10 miles before the SOC would creep up. The second time, I had it on cruise control and, while ascending a grade, the car jerked violently and acted as if I were flooring and letting off the gas in quick succession, about 4 times. I disengaged cruise control and took hills more slowly. The high idle up the hills backed off as the battery SOC increased. This time the SOC started in increase within a few minutes, as I would expect normally. I imagine that the electric motor was turning off and on, when the car was jerking, due to a low SOC.
These symptoms cleared up in a few days, apart from the hesitation on accelerating from a stop, and I've been driving it ever since. A few weeks ago, I noticed the car had major difficulty accelerating. I'll floor it and it barely moves, taking several seconds longer than it should to get up to speed. The SOC is stuck at 1 purple bar. I got the car home and turned it off. When I turned it back on, the SOC increased very quickly, only once. I now can't replicate that. The SOC simply will not go above one bar.
Another odd thing. When I'm creeping down the road, at say, 25mph, and I let off the throttle, the car just keeps moving as if cruise control is engaged.
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I'm getting codes C1241, C1259,C1310, P1241. All of them have to do with the skid control ecu. Should I replace the ecu?
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P0000
P002B
P003A
P001f
P0023
P0034
P0043
P0050
First time I see an error code 7.5 years into the car.
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I'm hoping I can get some diagnostic insight into a problem I just started seeing on my 2007 Prius. I have had the Prius for a little over 4 years. Currently around 123K miles.
Starting two days ago I noticed when I started driving that the engine was constantly running and when pulling out from a stop sign just up the road from my house the acceleration was sluggish. I look at the MFD and see the hybrid battery is nearly drained. Unusual because it was blue or green when I parked the night before. Driving for a few minutes, the battery fills back up and driving is normal. The only warning light is for a tire pressure sensor which just started to come on that day. Over the last two days I get the same thing at start up. Hybrid battery is drained. Lights aren't left on over night. Tire sensor light is constantly on but I checked the tires and pressure is good all around. Nothing plugged in anywhere to drain battery. The 12V battery was replaced maybe a year or so ago with an Optima yellow top, so not likely the issue. I checked diagnostic codes in the MFD and came up with a lot of codes:
LAN Monitor EMV:
01-DB 190- 40- 5
01-DE 178- FA-1
01-DB1F1- E5- 4
01-DB 110- 8A- 7
01-DB 178- 46- 3
LAN Monitor NAVI:
01-E3 - 00- F
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I'm at my wit's end trying to install cruise control in my 2009 Corolla. I thought it was a relatively easy install, but then after putting the airbag in place, I find that the horn no longer works. I test out the cruise control, and the green "Cruise" lights up on the dashboard..but it doesn't actually work.
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My check engine light has came on and I received these error codes
PO441 : Evaporative emissions control system incorrect purge flow.
PO 455 : Evaporative emissions control system pressure leak-large leak.
PO 446 : Evaporative emissions control system vent control circuit fault.
Also only my driver side fan is working, may be separate issue?
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I used to have LED brake lights in my taillights and decide to change them to old regular bulbs. After that Saturday 3am cruise control don't want to work. Then in the morning with all the lights off (headlights turns etc) the cruise works, as soon as I turn the lights on it stop working. I try to see the what's the cruise control fuse in the fuse card but I can't figure out which one is. 99 passat GLS manual trans.
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When I bought my R32 at the end of last year the cruise control didn't work. The light doesn't come on.
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I just purchased a low mileage R and trying to figure out if the car has been chipped. Not sure if when doing so you lose functionality of your cruise control but my cruise does not work and I am trying to determine how I go about checking the ECU on this ride.
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I have an '05 I bought 3 years ago and any time it sits outside and gets rained on, the VSC/check engine light comes on when I start it and it doesn't go away for 2-3 days at a time. The frustrating part is that any time this happens, I get the E3 error with the cruise control even though there's not a drop of water to be found anywhere.
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Just got my first X(and Ford) a couple days ago. Anyways, the cruise control doesn't work. I checked the CC switch on the master and it tested fine and I installed new switches on the steering wheel.
When I do the self diagnostic test with the steering wheel switches they all test fine, and on the last button(set) it lights up, but no other flashes. What does that mean? In 1 thread it stats that 0 flashes is the speed control servo.
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I have a 2001 ford focus SE and l can't get the cruise control to work anymore, is the problem a fuse and if so where is it located or a problem with brake pedal?
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Every day I have to drive on highways and obviously I use the Cruise Control BUT sometimes it doesn't work. To make it work again, I have to stop , turn off the engine and then turn it on. After doing that, the cruise control works again... It is an intermittent problem. I have my car for 4 months and I have got this problem about 10 times. Am I the only one to have an intermittent problem with my cruise control ?
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I've had my Sonata for six days, and I love it... Except... The cruise control doesn't work. At all. Never did. I tried pulling up on the brake pedal like another poster had suggested, but that didn't do a thing. Looks like a trip to the dealership is in order...
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My cruise control does not work and the mechanic has diganosed the cruise control servo as the problem. The shop gave me an estimate of $700 (parts & labor) to replace it. Given the age of the car and the cost of repair, I am leaning towards doing it myself. I am handy with tools but have not done this type of repair before.
My question: Is there a downside to doing this repair myself. If I elect to do it myself, what do I need to watch for?
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The other day I tried to do the nav hack and dvd playback in motion. I read through the instructions multiple times and followed them correctly making sure to cut the right wires. At the end, the only thing that worked was the dvd playback. I even tried two different switches but no luck. Over the weekend I noticed that cruise control wasn't working. When I press the cruise control button you can see the icon in the dash but you can't "set" the speed.
So today I plugged everything back to how it was, but still the cruise control does not work. I think it has something to do with the VSS. I did search, but I only found one other guy that had the same problem but it was never posted if he solved it.
I checked all the fuses under the hood and under the dash but they are all okay. How to reset the VSS or where the fuse for it may be? I'm going to try unplugging the battery and seeing if that does anything.
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The switch for CC works fine and will turn green and say 'on' when switched on, but it will not actually work (will decrease speed as soon as you let off gas, just as if it were not on). We replaced the whole gauge panel with one that had CC in working condition (exact same model) and this did not solve the problem.
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As a precautionary measure, I recently had the timing belt replaced on my 2003 Honda Civic. The mechanic noticed that the clutch master cylinder was leaking and I also had that replaced. After the repair, I noticed that my cruise control does not work (turns-on on the dashboard but does not work). I am taking the car back to have it fixed.
My question is where/what areas should I ask the mechanic to check to fix? I am thinking it could be as simple as a disconnected connection but I am not entirely sure.
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I own a 2013 C-Max hybrid and I notice that during long drives if i engage the cruise control, I don't get as many EV miles as I do when I have my foot on the gas pedal and take it off when i have reached my desired speed. Does EV mode not work in cruise control? My feet start to ache a bit with constantly having to press and release the gas pedal just so that I can generate some EV miles.
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I had a reputable repair shop briefly check out the cruise control on my Aerostar cargo van. They said it is not because of a vacuum leak. What is most likely the problem?
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