Prius (Gen 2) :: Key Left In Slot Warning Leads To Drain Battery
Dec 9, 2010
One day, I drove my Prius with my key fob in pocket. Parked the car. Turned off the power. Opened the driver side door to get off. Heard the continuous beep of "key fob in the slot" warning. I had never heard of it so I did not what it was. Tried closing / opening the door several times. The warning kept coming when I opened it. Tried getting off the car, pushed the lock button. It locked with lock beep normally.
After a few hours, I found the battery was dead. Had it jump started and the problem had not come back for a few weeks.
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I left the trunk of my 2007 Prius open long enough for the light to drain the battery. Once I jumped it, I was able to drive the 100 miles home, even though the red triangle warning light was on. Now when I turn the car on, there's a light I've never seen before, as seen in the attached image.
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I've just returned from a late-night walk, where I discovered I'd left on the dome (interior ceiling) light in my 20-year-old car (soon to be replaced by a Prius c Two!) about a half-hour previously. I thought: if I hadn't noticed my mistake, tomorrow morning the battery would probably be dead!
Could this happen with a Prius c? Or is there a sensor that automatically douses any interior light(s) after, say, 15 minutes?
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I accidentally left my daytime running lights on today for about 6 hours. My car is fairly new - only a month old. Will this drain my battery? I have driven it several times since I noticed it but am wondering if it will drain within the next few days. Had that happen on a non-hybrid vehicle when I left the interior light on all night - battery died a day or two after that. I know the batteries on the Prius C are different than in non-hybrid cars though I admit I don't really understand what's inside my Prius. I've read the owner's manual but in all honesty, it's pretty Greek to me. Seems like it has both an electric battery and a "regular" battery. Any major damage to it?
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I have a Prius 2003 with 122k. My inverter water pump making noise it running but i do not see any coolant movement. Does this mean it a bad pump and need to be replace?
My door ajar warning light stay on all the time. I have check door sensors and the trunk lid sensor they all seem to be function. Where the wiring for the door ajar end up to the ECU maybe i can just short or by pass it? This maybe the cause of my 12V battery keep getting drain
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I left my hazard lights on for 3 hours. Outdoor temp is 25 F
Car will not power up, no dash controls illuminate when fob is inserted and start button pressed.
Can I rectify this problem by jumping the accessory battery with a 12V power pack make to just art ordinary cars.
Can it be main battery that is the problem. It is the original 12 V battery.
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Just wondering if leaving the USB plugged in with the car is off drains the battery at all? Should I unplug it when I shut the car off or is it ok to just leave it plugged in?
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I started having a problem last week when my 2007 Prius was setting for two days while I was using my pickup truck. Found the 12 volt battery dead so I disconnected it and tested it with a battery load tester. And it showed it was bad. Well Ok, that figures, since it was an OEM battery and ~6-7 years old.
I have another 2007 Prius here for body repairs so I took the aftermarket (newer) battery out of it and topped the charge off in it. The battery load test indicated it was still a serviceable battery.
Put it in the car and cleared the red triangle, etc.. Everything was fine.
Since I was still going to be short one battery, I contacted Battery Systems, my shops battery dealer and ask them to drop off a new Yellow Top Optima that fits the Prius (FYI my shop price is $159.96). I would be a couple days til their deliver truck would be here and again I left the car sit for a couple days and drove my truck. On the day of the delivery, I had an appointment and drove the Prius, about 15 miles. No problem. Left it at in a street parking space for about 2 hours. Came out and all systems were dead. Nothing. Dome light was the only indication that the battery was so low that it was very dim. Head light were off and I hadn't used them while driving.
I called for road service and got a jump start and the systems came up and I was able to clear the Read Triangle when I got home by turning the car off and back on again.
The new Yellow Top Optima arrived shortly there after and I installed it. Drove the car for 6 days and this morning everything was fine when I drove to church and left it, head lites off (never had used them), came out 2 hours later and when I started the car, I got the Red Triangle and Ready but continued home. I turn it off and on again but this time I got no Ready but the Triangle and the whole sting of check light. Could only get it from park into neutral. Nothing else. Wouldn't clear.
Using my Torque Pro program, tried to read the ECU and it indicate no codes stored, Several tries, no codes or history. Called friend who has reader that will read the CAN Bus and he managed to find an odd P0503 code having to do with a speed sensor. Cleared that and the Triangle went out.
In the end I went and checked the voltage of the new battery and it was only 12.01 volts. I put the load tester on it and the condition is fine. Just the charge voltage is low.
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As the title states. It seems like the hatch release button is sticking due to the melting rubber. Would this cause a parasitic drain on the 12v battery?
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I have a 2010 Prius that I really love. In two separate incidents, I parked the car in a NYC parking garage and when it was delivered to me about 6 hours later the battery indicator only had two bars. There was no problems since the car recharged in about 15 minutes. On both occasions, I believe, the parking attendant left the key fob in the car the whole time it was parked. Is the car being drained because the key fob is in the car, or are the parking attendants doing something wrong? I can leave the car in my driveway for a few days and the battery is not as drained a sit is in 6 hours in the parking lot.
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Is there some sort of battery drain when hatch is raised, even though the courtesy light has been manually turned off? Seems like I read something about this recently, and don't want to damage the 12v if it's true...
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2015 prius solar roof does it drain the battery when the sun is not out and the cooling fan is running, not AC?
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We have experience dead car, no start conditions with our 07 Prius at least 4 times. The nearest we can figure is that there is a drain when we place the car in ACC mode, close the power windows then turn it off. This kills the car in less than 3 hours. The last time the hybrid system complained about being in neutral when jumped...we NEVER use Neutral
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I just bought a 2010 prius (26k miles..prior collision.. so no warranty) for my wife. The battery drains in just 3 days if left unused. I had Toyota install a new battery. Again 3 days left parked and battery was dead.
I locked myself in and measured the consumption. It drains at the rate of 1.1Amps when parked. That looks very high consumption. I want to measure with SKS turned off, but that's going to be tricky. I believe SKS resets when battery is reconnected.
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I recently parked my 2013 Prius in a concrete parking structure near LAX for 8 days. When I returned, the battery was dead - car was completely nonresponsive. AAA had to "resync" the hybrid system along with jumper cables to get me going. The technician said it was because the concrete drained the battery. I have previously left the car in underground garages for longer periods of time with no problem. Is this an urban legend?
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At about 92k miles (2 months ago), my 2005 Prius started having a battery issue... When going about 40 mph and above and not having to stop or apply my brakes, my battery would drain (to just 1-2 bars) in about 5-10 minutes and not recharge until I got into stop-and-go traffic (this would happen about 9 out of 10 times). Mpg was still pretty good during that time, but when I finally had to stop, the engine had to kick on to recharge the battery and my mpg just sucked...I went from averaging 45 mph to 39 mph.
I took my car into the dealership for them to have a look and to also perform my 95k service. When I told them that I feared the battery was dying, they said that the good news was that I had another year on my warranty (not sure if the battery warranty is extended in California). The service advisor eventually came back and stated that they had also observed the battery charging problem and that they had to pinpoint the exact problem (either an igniter, a battery cell, or something else that I can't remember). They even started the process of getting me a rental car for a couple of days.
However, the service advisor then came back and stated that no problem was found...he even walked me back into the garage where they were working on all of the cars just to ask the technician working on my car if there was a problem...he also stated that no problem was found. When I asked how initially a problem was found and then suddenly not found, I really didn't get a straight answer (I should have pressed harder). Anyway...after 10 hours in the shop, they pulled my car around and the manager came out to speak to me...stating how the 95k service showed no problems and how no problem with the battery was found. When I asked about how to prove to them that there really was an issue, he stated that if the problem kept occurring I could bring it back in and they could have one of their tech leads drive it home for the night as kind of a road test.
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I recently was stuck in a traffic jam in the middle of the Mojave desert. Outside temp was about 102 and we crept along for maybe 15 minutes going no more than 5-10 mph. I had the air conditioning on. I noticed the power bars were rapidly disappearing and got worried that I would lose the battery if I didn't get moving. Needless to say, I finally was able to speed up and the bars came back. (dropped to 2 bars).
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I go over a mountain pass, to and from work. It is about a two mile up and down incline/decline. On several occasions while going up the pass,the gas motor has rapidly accelerated at a high rpm. I back off the gas pedal and check the 'battery indicator bars' and there are none. I then drive very slowly to the top of the pass and the batteries quickly recharge on the decline to a color of all light green bars, indicating a full charge. Same experience coming home. Once I do normal town driving, the bars settle around 'four or five blue bars.' Local dealer says there is on problem. I am driving at 55 mph when this happens.
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I have had this happen before (and drove right to the dealer but it was fine when I got there) and it happened again today. Its a very hot day and I had forgot to turn off my AC and radio when I shut the car down. So I started it up put it in drive (or reverse) and it would just jump to neutral and the battery was drained (purple lines) because this had happened before I knew that if I held it in place and turned off the AC I could drive and be fine in a few minutes and that's what happened. Is it just because on a hot day it drains the battery too fast. Its a 2008 Prius with no other problems but this. Its just an annoying thing that makes me crazy.
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Will it drain the battery to leave the rear hatch open for extended time? i.e. for tailgating or camping (2008 Prius)
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My 2009 Prius is overheating at times. I have a Scan Gauge connected and it normally shows an engine temp of 181-182 f. Rarely approaches 200. At times, it will go as high as 250 which brings on the red triangle and gong sound. If I start out cold (don't shut off the car during the trip), it will run perfectly for the entire time. Doesn't matter what the outside temp or whether running AC.
If I stop for a couple mins and turn off the engine, then restart, it will misbehave and run all over the temp spectrum. I took it on a 1000 mi drive to Seattle in July. On the way there, I didn't notice any problems but it was rainy, cool and didn't run the AC much.
Coming back was a different story. If I let it sit (powered off) for 15-20 mins or so, it will hold the correct temp. It's just when it sits (powered off) for brief periods (less than 10 mins) that it will act up. Another clue is that it cools going up hill and gets hotter going down. That seems contrary to the usual and only does that when acting up.
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