Prius (Gen 2) :: Jerks A Bit Then Looses Almost All Power At A Stop Light
Jun 22, 2010
All the brake lights and master lights are on, and it seems to drive fine then at a stop light i start to move and it jerks a bit then looses almost all power it will still drive but barely and it has high RPM'S then I pull over and restart the car and it goes away for about another 10 to 20 miles. DTC codes are fuel to air meetering, replace hybrid battery pack, and block 11 becomes weak, do you think this might be caused by a bad skid control ECU?
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I have a 99 Ranger 4.0 4x4. When driving on a hill, the truck cuts back and looses power. I can press the pedal and go into passing gear and it will pick up speed but that is the only way the speed will increase and not slow down. The truck jerks when this happens.
Things I have tried:
Replace all plugs and wires
Replaced Coil Pack
Replaced Mass Air Flow sensor
Replaced O2 sensor
Replaced throttle cable
Took truck out of overdrive
Changed to better grade of gas
Changed oil
I had Cat. Converter checked
There are no codes showing. Truck may drive OK on one trip but act up on the return. It seems to use a lot more gas when it is acting up. I now have run out of options that I know about.
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I have a 2004; 4cyl Sonata, that jerks when I accelerate from a stop light or when I step on the gas, it jerks and sputters while passing another vehicle, then it gains speed?
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I was wondering if fuel injectors throw a code when it goes out. I have a 02 7.3 been running rough when you accelerate bogs down and looses power not sure but sometimes gas light would come on knowing I have gas in it could that be a sign of the sending unite and that's why it runs rough..
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My husband and I just recently (probably a little over a month ago) received a 1998 Isuzu Amigo 2.2 5 speed from a friend as a gift. We had some issues with it and discovered the spark plug wires were in the wrong order on the coil pack. We fixed this and the car ran great for about a day then started bogging down and eventually wouldn't start at all. We discovered at this point that there was a blown head gasket so we took apart the head sanded it down, cleaned everything replaced all the gaskets when putting it back together. We also found at the same time that the timing was off so we fixed that as well. After putting everything back together the car ran awesome for about 2 1/2 days and now when we go to drive it we turn it on it idles fine no issues but when we go to drive it once we put it into gear and press the gas sometimes we have power and sometimes there is no power. It comes and goes and when it is there it runs great but then we loose power again. We have tried replacing carburetor cleaning all the parts and spark plugs rechecking the torque on bolts on the head and nothing seems to work. And now there is a clicking noise coming from what seems like the exhaust side of the motor.
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The car idles fine, but after a couple seconds in each gear (5spd. manual) it looses power and starts to stumble, but if i keep it at a low rpm, it will run. So, if it is the catalytic converter. how can i un-clog it? Dearborn protocol adapter.
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2002 Camry 4 cly was running great. All the sudden looses power, stalls (won't idle), engine light came on, when I held gas pedal at 1000 rpm engine rev's 1000 - 1400 rpm. Autozone trouble codes P0300, P0301, P0302, P0171, P0420. Car barely runs, getting worse quickly. I also smelled hot metal when I pulled into driveway, exhaust tail pipe was superhot.
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My f150 looses power and sputters when it warms up. Let it cool off and it runs great until it warms up again. Check engine light comes on every now and then but not every time.
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I have a 337 running the ATP gt2x kit with revo stg3 and external fuel w/550cc injectors. The car has power in the first three gears until 4200 RPM then it acts like it backfires and then looses all power, but it will drive and boost normal in 4th,5th, and 6th gear. I have basic boost settings running on the revo and cant figure out what the problem is.
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Is it normal that over night parking battery looses charge from 7 bars down to 2 bars? I never lock the car and leaving my key in it.
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I have a 2006 pontiac montana sv6 AWD
Once everything warms up the steering looses power at low rpm and starts making whistling noises around the steering wheel and can also be herd outside the car somewhere.
I have just replaced the power steering pump and flushed the system. I also replaced the belt and tensioner at the same time.
Air has been bled from the system and i have checked everywhere for leaks and cant see any and I am not loosing any fluids. But I still have a lack of power and the whistle noise sounds like it is sucking air into the system somewhere..
I still get some small bubbles coming up in the reservoir even tho i have bled the system soo many times now.. What is going on?
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Car has 252k miles runs ruff after engine warms up, looses power, if I give more gas, car will sputter, but rev up to 5k engine smoothes out. This situation constantly comes and goes.
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I experience a jump or jerk when rolling towards e.g. a stop sign or traffic light, or even in stop-and-go traffic and the transmission shifts down into first gear. The jerk only happens when I stop slowly. If I break fairly hard, this problem does not appear. It even jumps/jerks when I roll down my driveway, breaking slightly. In some cases, I fear that I'll leave the gearbox on the street.
This, of course, does not happen every time, but frequently enough that I asked my VW dealer to take a look at the problem. They changed my spark plugs and said that this may have been the reason
Can not quite make this connection, and of course on my way home the same jump/jerks happen, as on my way to work this morning. I want to take my car back to the dealer, but hopefully with some more insight, since they appear to be clueless.
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Recently purchased a 2005 4Runner Sport 4x4. I bought it before they had the chance to give it the once over but they agreed to do a safety inspection the next day. The car was in tip top shape so I was not concerned. As I was driving it home I noticed the car was jerking or rocking slightly as I was coming to a stop. I didn't think much of it but when they inspected the car the next day they found the driver side CV boot was leaking and needed to be replaced, which they did for free. When i dropped it off, I asked if they could look at the cause of the jerking and they said it was likely due to the CV boot and it would go away after the repair. Well it did not go away. I'm wondering what is causing this jerking and if it's worth a trip to the shop to have it fixed or worth going back to the dealer and making them fix it. Should I be concerned about safety?
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When I slow down to stop my 2008 Sonata it jerks. It is an intermittent issue. The car has 95,000 miles and when I called the dealer I was told they would start with changing the transmission fluid and go from there. I read on some other posts of this same type of issue being fixed by installing the latest software for the transmission, but this was related to 2009 & 2010 Sonatas. Is it possible that installing some new software would work on my 2008?
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When I accelerate from full stop with 3/4 throttle when car gets to 60-70 mph it stops accelerating for 1 or 2 sec, there is is also a little jerk. After that it continues to accelerate normally. The problem is not present if for instance we drive 30 mph and then use 3/4 or full throttle. I talked to dealer and they said there might be a little jerk but nothing more, and it might be solved by software update. In my opinion its definitely not a slightly jerk, car completely stops to accelerate for a moment. Car has about 45 k miles so its almost like new.
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Bought my first Diesel few weeks ago and I am trying to figure out if something is normal. Its a 2004 F350 and the truck seems to jerk a little bit when I come to a stop and when I hit on the gas. Feels like a tug every time into gear.
I would like to say its first to second but it cant be because its basically only happens when I press on the gas and start rolling, unless I am going into second immediately thats not it. I know less than dick about this truck?
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I have 2003 Buick Century. I started having problems with the car after coming to a stop, accelerating - the car starts to go hesitates, then jerks a bit to go. This does not happen every time after a stop but when it does the service engine soon light comes on. Initially I got the P0401 code (I think) and took it in to a mechanic. They could not find anything wrong with the car but did clean out the EGR valve, that didn't work, they worked on my transmission and replaced other parts, still no success.
I took the car to another mechanic who replaced the EGR valve and several other small parts. I still had the problem but this time the error code was P0420. I took it back again and replaced the spark plugs, O/2 sensor, catalytic converter. That hasn't fixed the problem. The mechanic said that they have taken my car for several test drives and the car has not demonstrated the problem. The error message still reads P0420 even after all of the parts have been replaced. The 2nd mechanic has washed his hands of my problem.
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I have had the traction light come on twice when at a stop light. Once was when I was reaching back to give my daughter her juice that was in the front cup holder. The other time I was trying to get something out of my pocket to give to someone in the car.
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We have a 2002 7.3 f350 2wd this darn thing is now tripping me out. At first when ou start the truck its all good but when it warms up the idle is funky when you go to stop at a lite its like im power breaking and rough idle once stopped the idle is about between 800 and 900rpms at a stop really high idle but plenty of power on take off...
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The problem i got is that when i step on the car it have a lot of power in the first 4500rpm but after that it looses all it's torque. it's really weird. I got the car scanned and the scanner found a problem with the cat converter, but something tell me that's not it. The check engine light is on.
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