I have a 2005 Prius with 120,000 miles on it. Today the red triangle light and circle warning lights came on. The service department at my dealership said, "inverter converter losing function. No longer able to accurately control voltage". The car seems to be running the same as it always does.
Specific things I should have checked?
After the warning light & triangle went on in my 2003 Prius, it turned out the inverter pump was bad. It was replaced. Now I am steadily losing MPG as I drive the car. From before the replacement, it has gone from 42 - 44 down to 36. This is in a few days time.
After I got home, I saw that the dealer put on the service ticket that the car might need a new inverter. There was no reason stated for that, and the service rep never mentioned it. In fact, the service rep said that the hybrid system would not be damaged if I drove the car with the warning light, since the hybrid system would shut itself off before any damage would be done.
There is a small leak in the radiator but on inspection, the coolant level is full (actually, while still hot, it is overfull), so I don't think that is the problem, at least not yet.
I bought a 2004 that was hit in the front. I have it mostly put back together. However, after doing the major work I wanted to start the vehicle and move it. So I plugged in the main battery plug and re-hooked up the 12V battery. Then the dash lights lit up as well as a bunch of the idiot lights and I could hear the inverter making noise. When I push the power button, nothing.
I am at a loss because when I bought the vehicle it had a broken engine mount. When I was putting the car in neutral it tried to start and I didnt have all the dash lights lit up. Of course I turned it off immediately because of the engine mount. Now I have a bunch of lights on and no start.
So I have installed a 331 stroker with an AOD trans in an early Bronco.
The question is... What is the correct procedure for getting the lock up converter to function? How does it need to be wired?
I own a 2007 Prius last Friday I was driving on the freeway when all of sudden the car died on me without any warning lights. There was a bad burning smell which later I realize it was from the inverter coolant pump. I was luckily able to mange to pull on side. Towing was another pain because the car wont turn (start) or acc so you can't shift to neutral and the front wheels were locked.
Took it to Toyota they refused to cover any work because inverter pump was replaced by the previous owner about 2 years ago. between that there is hardly 20k on it.
Now the car wont start. I checked the main fuse on auxiliary battery and its working fine. The interior lights are turning on, alarm and key fob works, power locks working. but it wont start.
I heard there is a fuse that will be tripped by the coolant pump it's 15A AM2 fuse. I don't know where is that fuse. I can have the pump replaced but need to know how to tun on the car. A local mechanic came to check and he said that main relay showing current only on battery side but not towards inlet (going to engine or car).
My 2007 Prius with 162k miles had an Inverter Coolant Pump Failure Monday 6.5 hours from home when my wife was driving it home from a trip. Red Triangle, (!), vsc, and check engine light. She was able to make it about 20 minutes to a dealer where it was diagnosed. Luckily no further damage was done to vehicle. Yes, she should have stopped but continued on since car was driving OK.
View 7 RepliesMy 2008 Prius (111,000 miles) had all the panel alarm lights go on and lost power while I was driving on the freeway. After turning off the vehicle and letting it “rest” for 10 minutes, it restarted with only the red triangle alert light remaining on and was able to drive to my dealer service (about 40 miles) with no incident. The diagnostic code indicates that the inverter has failed, but the technicians are not able to confirm that this is the problem, since the system is now running. I was able to drive it home with no problems or warning lights. As this is a $4,000 part, I would like to know if this is a likely, or even possible, scenario for an inverter failing, or could it be another problem? Note: 3 months ago the auxiliary battery was replaced following the same circumstances.
View 13 Replies2000 Explorer 4.0 dohc avd. 150k miles. The torque converter lock-up function has started to drop out. It can happen after some miles and will light a warning light in the dash that the manual states as "contact tech" or something like that. Everything gets back to normal with just a "blip" to "off-position for the ignition switch and might stay normal for all between 5 minutes to several hours. Seems to me it is an electrical issue. Dirt, sensors?
Runs and shifts fine other than this. Only thing I have noticed is that the temp gauge reads pretty low but I think this started earlier and I understand that the temp gauge has its own sensor. Where to start looking?
The check engine light came on a few times. Went to the old trusty repair shop and the codes pointed to an issue with the catalytic converter. When we started the car again, multiple warning dash lights came on: ABS, (!), Check Engine, and emergency brake light. The brakes also felt very stiff after this.
The mechanic at the shop was taken aback. Said there was a glitch with the computer and that we needed to take it to a dealership to have them "perform initialization of linear solenoid valve and calibration." He said that would fix the issue with the lights.
We were a little upset this happened but love this shop and only stopped going because we moved a few hours away. The mechanic has always been very honest and upfront through the years.
I took the car to the local Toyota dealership today, told them what happened and what the mechanic said. All they did was charge me $100 for a diagnosis of bad catalytic converter pipe and tell me that all the lights came on because the catalytic converter is so far gone. They said they couldn't turn the other lights off until the catalytic converter was replaced.
I don't understand why my brakes are affected when the issue with the car is the catalytic converter. I was also told by the guy at the shop where we first took the car that we would be able to drive with a faulty Catalytic converter with no problem.
I'm new to modding and I've been having a really hard time finding a forum that gives a good DIY instructions on how to wire the map lights to function as the dome lights so they (the map lights) turn on when the doors are opened.
Any parts required (relays or anything else of that sort)
I have a VW Tiguan w/ auto lights. I was just wondering if there is a way to have the fog lights turn on with the auto lights function.
View 1 Replies2001 Ford Windstar, select tail lights will not function. All lights serviced by Fuse #7 have ceased to function (left rear turn lamp, right backup lamp, right stop lamp, right rear park lamp, right license lamp, left license lamp, and left backup lamp). Checked all bulbs and replaced any that were questionable but to no avail.
View 2 RepliesMy parking lights go on and off when the car is off. I had problems with the headlights flashing about 3 years ago and fixed it with spaying contact cleaner and air in the multi function switch and that fixed that. I tried the same thing several times to try and fix the blinking tail lights but doesn't work. I just replaced the (LCM) lamp control module but still does it. Somebody told me today that it could be the security module. I'm thinking that the multi-function switch needs to be replaced. Is there a fuse or a way to shut down the (LCM) and just turn the lights on and off manually?
View 2 Replieswhat is the 12v charging amperage of the gen II Inverter?
i just bought a 07 Prius with 43k
i am into ham radio and i will be installing a handfull of ham radios, including one that on high power can draw as much as 20 amps from 12v system during transmit.
all the radios in receive mode together draw about 6 amps.
im used to traditional alternator ratings of 50 70 90 and 100+ amps but upon searching this site, i have found no info about the 12v battery charging systems amperage output.
any one have specs on the 12v charging system output?
My 2001 Prius with 134k miles has been running great but leaves a small amount of coolant on the ground after parking. I've had to add approximately 8 ounces per 100 miles.
View 13 RepliesI just noticed my 2010 Prius doesn't have the plastic piece/cover that goes across the inverter. I posted a picture of the black plastic/metal? piece/cover. Would any service require the removal of that piece? Only thing I can think of is the Dealer replacing the recalled brake pump assembly.
View 5 RepliesI have had my certified 2010 Prius since June 2015. Last Saturday I noticed my inverter coolant reservoir was on the low mark. I went to the closest dealer and they topped it off up almost to the full mark for free. I thought it had probably went down from evaporation and I just hadn't noticed it before. Yesterday I went back to the dealer where I purchased it which is about 90 miles away to have the CVT fluid changed. This morning the coolant was back down to almost the low mark. I looked on the ground and can't see any evidence of a leak. Tomorrow I have a appointment to have them check it. Since it is still in the one year certified warranty I don't know how motivated they will be to find the problem when they can't charge me for it. I don't think the level would have went back down right away if there wasn't a leak somewhere. I checked and there have been no recalls done or called for on it.
View 12 RepliesHaving seen the rather catastrophic outcomes that are possible with inverter coolant pump failure, I've thought a bit about adding a flow sensor in the coolant path. I even went so far as to buy a flow sensor, which would probably do the job. However, it's somewhat heavy, and then there's the plumbing job to take care of. Seemed somewhat challenging to pull off.
Since this aborted endeavor, I began thinking about ways to detect surface turbulence at the top of the coolant tank, and am now thinking that might be easier to pull off, even if it requires programming a PIC to do the monitoring. My current thought is to install an LED and optical sensor in the cap, and measure light intensity received.
So, the sideways coolant tank in the engine compartment, not the one next to the grill, but the one that is sort of between the air filter box and that shiny metal square
I have always thought that tank was slightly low, but it has a seam just about where the full line is, so I was never sure....finally about three weeks ago, I worked up my courage and put a few ounces of coolant in that tank. THEN it was up to the full line.
So, a few weeks after adding the coolant, I had the water pump recall done. Now the coolant level is back down to where it was before I added....so I am assuming that the correct level is just below that seam that seals the top of the plastic tank to the bottom part of the tank.
I bought an 01 Prius with 148k miles. It had code P3125 which mean bad inverter. I replaced the inverter with one from a junk yard with 81k miles. As soon as I was done the car started right up, and I didnt get electrocuted!
Right after the car started I got codes P3115 P3001 and P 3191. I cleared them out and turned off the car for a min.
When I started the car again I got codes P3030 and P3001.
This car has an extensive service history, It has a new Cat and exhaust, a new accessory and HV traction battery that are less than 8 months old. Crank position sensor is new. fuel tank is new.
What could be causing the P3030 and the P3001?
I just received the Scangauge II and wonder if it can display the inverter temperature?
View 13 Replies