Prius (Gen 2) :: ICE Started And Misfire When Backing Out Of Driveway
Mar 24, 2014
I readied my Prius and was backing out my driveway. The ICE started and was misfiring very badly, sounded like it was barely running, making all kinds of clatter.
I stopped, put the car in park, and the idle was very rough, sounded like it was trying to clear itself from being flooded. There were no warning lights or blinking check engine lights, so I drove off.
Heres where things get freaky. If I accelerated any more than 1/4 of the gas pedal, the car would buck and the ICE would shut off completely. Then when I let go of the gas, the ICE would start back up. If i feathered the gas lightly, the ICE would stay running. After the car warmed up, this behavior disappeared.
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After having rear disc pads replaced, my 2003 Toyota Avalon makes a terrible noise backing out of the driveway in the morning. I think it must be rust or something--it never happens in ultra-dry weather. It is a very loud squeaking and moaning. It only happens backing up, and it goes away after a bit of driving. Normally I would not worry about what is likely a bit of surface rust, but this is INTENSE. Like, the neighbors across the street stare at us. Should I worry about this, or just live with it since the brakes perform fine after this initial period?
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After returning from about a 5 hr roadtrip, I backed my snowmobile trailer up my steep driveway in 4wd and the truck did not want to move after that. The truck is an '05 SCREW 4X4 5.4L with about 110,000 miles on it. Trailer is probably around 1,000 lbs with the snowmobile on it.
The driveway is steep and short. That combined with the 90 degree turn to get in and some uneven terrain and part the path onto slippery frozen grass makes for a bit of a rodeo trip backwards up the driveway with a trailer.
Anyway, after getting the trailer up into it's place, I unhooked it, switched back to 2wd, disengaged the parking brake, and put it into drive. The truck didn't roll which was weird as it's now in drive pointed down hill. With about 1/4 - 1/3 throttle, it crept forward. Again, this is down hill. I got out walked around the truck (make sure I didn't forget to unhook anything etc) and tried again. Same thing.
Once I made it to the fairly level street, the truck would still only move, barely, with about 1/4 - 1/3 throttle. Now it was like some of the wheels were free but at least one had to break traction with the pavement to allow the truck to move forward. So with constant pressure on the accelerator it would chirp one or more of the wheels a bit at a time as it crept forward. Acted like it was in some sort of imaginary tug of war. After about 40' of driving it worked itself out. I've driven about 10 miles since and seems just fine.
I'm concerned because I plan to do this frequently with this trailer and in the summer frequently with a boat weighing about 3,500 lbs although shouldn't need 4wd in the summer.
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I have a 2008 Ford Escape, and today I noticed that while backing out of my driveway (downhill) as I pressed the brake pedal it made this grinding noise, but when I got out of the car I looked through the tires and the rotors and pads were fine. I did not get a chance to check the inner side of the rotor or pad yet. What else could this noise be if it's not the brakes? It only makes this noise when I press the brake pedal which is why I thought it was the brakes.
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I have had literally no issues with my 2004 F250 Super Duty. Went out and started the truck like every other time for the past 13 years. Started backing out of the driveway and burped the throttle and it just quit??
I put back into park and it rolled over for about a minute and finally caught. When i put it back into gear i had zero throttle response. I have a NOx sensor fault code and and EGR fault code. I replaced the FICM 2 years ago.
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I have 2004 Super Duty with a noise in the front end when I hit bumps or backing out or entering a driveway with a lip. I don't feel anything in the steering wheel but I feel it on the floor board with my feet? Where to begin?
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I had my 350 for about 5-6 months? Started two months ago when the brakes started to squeal coming down from my driveway and sometimes when I release the brake at a light. First I thought it was because of the cold but it started to get warmer and the problem is still here.
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I have a 1998 Lincoln Town Car with about 350,000 miles on it. This morning I sensed a slightly rough idle when I started it up and let it sit in the driveway. While idling I plugged in a scan tool and after a few minutes it showed a P0306, a misfire in cylinder 6. I know there could be a few causes of this but my past experience has been a bad ignition coil (this car has the coils on each plug).
Over the years I've had 3 coils go bad, all giving the same rough idle symptom and P030x, where x was the cylinder number. Replacing the coils solved the problem each time.
So this morning I assumed it would probably be the same. On my way to the auto parts store (4 miles), I monitored the computer, it kept throwing a P0306 (cylinder 6) and I kept clearing the code. About 2 blocks from the store, the car seemed to be running a bit rougher. When I pulled into the lot, I got a P0307 code (and no P0306). Hmm. Well, I bought a new coil and replaced coil 6. I then sat in the lot and idled it and after a few minutes it threw the P0307 again. I cleared it a few times and it came back.
I assumed there was about 0 chance that a second coil could go out within minutes of another (assumption from a car tinkerer, not a professional), so rather than buying another coil, I drove it home to do some further testing. On the way home, it kept throwing the P0307 and nothing about P0306.
So at home, I swapped coil 7 and 5, idled it for a few minutes, and, sure enough, it threw a P0305 (the problem had moved to cylinder 5, following the coil). This indicates to me that I had 2 bad coils?!?
So my question is whether it's possible, or even common, to lose two coils at virtually the same time. I should also point out that before today I did not notice rough idling and there were no computer codes set. I also thought maybe it's possibly a problem developing with an ignition module (but I'm not sure if my car even has one).
Anyway, it was late and I have not replaced the second coil. I did do a couple other tests. I measured the resistance on the primary of the new coil, as well as 5, 6, and 7 coils. They were all close to 0 ohms. The resistance of the secondary ranged between 5k and 8k depending on the coil. Out of curiosity, I also did a final swap of the original coil 6 with the "faulty" coil 7 now in 5 (follow me?) and it still throws a P0305, indicating both the old 6 and old 7 coils are, indeed bad. Another note is that both "bad" coils are about the same age (maybe 150k-200k miles on each), so they're not newer ones.
Does this all make sense? Should I go ahead and replace the other coil and see what happens, or should I check something else?
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2005 Echo auto 120,000 km
I have intermittent misfiring (a few seconds every couple minutes) and get the codes 301 and sometimes 304/300. I cant drive out of my driveway without a sputter and when I turn into a parking spot or make a quick stop the problem is magnified. I initially suspected a wiring / coil issue but here are my results:
Shuffled coil packs. (1/2 & 3/4)
Shuffled fuel injectors.
Good compression.
Swapped ECM.
Inspected wiring harness.
Goof EFI / cutoff relays.
None of these led to any change in the codes (300, 301, 304)
Yesterday I swapped the fuel pump and it worked flawlessly for an hour of city driving (first time in two months) ... then the issue returned as before.
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I have a Jetta Mk IV, yesterday I went to go drive it and just as I pulled out of the driveway it started running rough, so I pulled back in the driveway and the coolant temperature sensor light came on, then the check engine light. and then it died. Then today I tried starting it, and it will only start and run if I have the gas pedal all the way to the floor, and it runs really rough. Then it will die. I thought maybe the coolant temp sensor since the light came on. I replaced that, and it still does it. I'm leaning towards a head gasket.
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I'm in my 3rd week of driving my new Prius v and was a curious about this... During the first week, I noticed that when backing up from my parking lot, the car's engine wouldn't kick in until I'd drive out the driveway at a higher speed.
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Turn off the backing up beep in the Toyota Prius?
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I think it becomes more pronounced if the ground is not level. Is this normal?
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So took the Car out for a short while and was on my way back and car started to misfire, yep cylinder #2. So ordered a set of 6 and 6 new spark plugs hopefully they will arrive soon this week. I know they have the recall but i doubt VW will give me the money for 6 Coil Packs. Anyway end of useless rant. Just felt like posting..........R'S rule
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I need to disconnect the beep when backing up the Prius. How to do this.
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Why do my brakes so loud at only 6k miles while backing out of my driveway? Yes it's cold and it's been snowing, but that sound is horrible!
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Was driving into the driveway last night and I noticed headlights were out. Was on the road for about 30 min, I was driving in the city, I assumed they were on. So after pulling into the driveway, I went out and slapped both headlights, they both came on. Sounds like I need to maybe check connections, clean, lube, etc. The car has 150 k on it.
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Our brakes sends out a loud screech but only while it's backing up. (78k miles)
Is it time to change the pads?
Should we service the brakes at the dealership or private auto shop?
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The scene: 22k miles on a 2010 Prius II. Loud rear brake squeal, worse when backing, but still present going forward at low speeds. Does not seem to go away even when warmed up. I put it off having it checked at first because a little rust on the pads is very common in my climate.
At the dealer, the tech tells me I've worn completely through the pads and scored the rotor! At 22k! On a Prius, for crying out loud! It's not my driving, either, because that's the first I've ever had anything done to rear brakes on any car before 75k. The front brakes needed no attention at all. I challenged the service tech with these points; he even took me back into the shop to show me. The caliper pistons were moving freely, for what it's worth. Ultimately he just shrugged me off.
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