Prius (Gen 2) :: High RPM Before Shifting
May 28, 2015
I have a Gen II 2008 with 109000k miles. It seems when it gets hot here in Arizona (near 100 or >) that for a period of time driving home, the car will not shift into the next gear properly. I have to back down on the accelerator to get it to shift to a higher gear or whatever the trans axle is not doing. There are no check engine lights or codes be thrown. Is there a sensor that could be causing this behavior or are there internal clutches slipping. Oddly later driving home things seemed back to normal.
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I have a 2009 ford focus The rpms are hight and the transmission is not shifting .
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Shifting especially at high revs. The noise also seems to happen when shifting to gears 2,3 and 4; not so much 5 & 6. What is the cause?
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After I start my Lesabre when cold, after about 15 minutes or so it starts idling high, usually about 1500 , but sometimes it's as high as 2300 while stopped at a light. And a few times it has been 3-4000 rpm after putting it into PARK. After it starts idling high it starts shifting late. If you shut the engine off and immediately restart it, it usually starts idling fine again temporarily. Engine has normal power and runs smooth and idles smooth. It has also randomly died a couple times while driving at 30-40mph but then immediately restarted as if there was no problem.
It has a P0121 code which is "throttle position sensor switch A circuit range/performance problem". It also has a P0420, "Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) ", which I'm not sure is related to the issue because the check engine light had been on a long time before the idling/shifting issue started happening. Like in the neighborhood of a year and a half before the current issue, but it ran fine the entire time and got 30+mpg on the highway.
First thing I did to troubleshoot was to test the TPS and it seemed ok. Voltmeter readings were .4v with throttle closed and seemed to advance smoothly up to 4.4v at WOT. But, I tested it before the engine was hot and I don't have a Oscope. I then used some carb cleaner and shot it around the injectors and a few vacuum inlets to check for vacuum leaks, to no effect. Engine runs quiet and I don't really hear any vac leaks.
Next, I cleaned the idle air control valve which was pretty dang dirty, but that didn't seem to resolve the issue, although it may have had a slight effect because the issue seems to come and go some while driving now, but I'm not totally sure. I also tested the connector at the IAC and had voltage on all 4 pins between .4v - 11.4v approximately.
Lastly, I got the engine to reproduce the problem and then pulled and then reconnected these sensors one at a time while the engine was idling high:
MAF Sensor
TPS
IAC
Intake Air Temp Sensor
This didn't have the slightest effect on the engine... I'm thinking it might actually be the TPS or IAC but I don't want to just start replacing stuff without knowing damn near certain it's going to resolve the issue. Could a vehicle speed sensor cause this? How I should proceed from here? :?
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My 2001 Suburban, 1500, 5.3L, 2WD with 164k miles, has a problem with high idle and delayed shifting. The high idle occurs when the vehicle has been driven around for awhile. When I start it up, even when already warm, idle is normal (~600 rpm). After some time, however, it idles at 900 to 1100 rpm. The delayed shifting happens right away--almost like I have the tow/haul mode turned on.
I have cleaned out the idle air port, cleaned the MAF sensor, replaced the idle air control valve, replaced the PCV valve, replaced the engine temperature sensor, and unhooked the battery to reset things. It still idles high.
I first noticed this a few weeks ago when the battery died. After I put in the new battery, the idle was very low. So I cleaned out the idle air port and valve. Then it was high. I drove it around for a few days like that and then started replacing stuff, to no avail--still high. I also cleaned around the throttle plate.
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I've got a mazda 6 v6 3.7 from the year 2010 with approx. 69000 miles on the clock. I noticed when going uphill at low or high speeds that the car seems to feel like it is shifting but it actually isn't. For example when I drive on the highway about 70 going up a hill it feels like it shifts every few seconds even on manual mode in 6th gear.
When I hit the gas it shifts back and I don't feel it anymore. At lower speeds it feels like it is doing a whole lot of shifting at low/medium acceleration. Again if I hit the gas and accelerate faster the car just goes normally up its gears. I think this is the torque converter doing this, but I am not sure whether it is normal?
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My auto transmission is sticky at times. This usually happens after an hour of driving doesn't happen all the time. The gears start to change at high Rpms like 5 to 6k. It's real annoying. Otherwise the tranny is very smooth , like butter . Shifts into all gears.
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I've been having some issues with the way my car is running today. Drove to the store, and he was fine. On the way home, he hit 4rpm and then dropped extremely fast. Then I stopped at a red light.. I went to go, hit maybe 2.5 rpm and it made this high pitched squeak and shifted really hard. I made it home fine after that, and no lights are coming on. I just changed my spark plugs not even a month ago.
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My car makes a high chatter sound when I shift from neutral to either first or reverse but no other time. what does that mean? should I stop driving it until I can get it looked at? it's not slipping or grinding at all, just makes a noise as I let the clutch out and engage the gear.
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I have a '98 F150 4.2l with 230k miles on it. A couple of days ago when starting, I noticed that the engine kept racing instead of idling down like it normally does and the weather here in Arkansas has approached the 80 degree mark. The engine also doesn't idle down when shifting (I have a manual tranny). Where to start? I don't have any codes stored other than two for bank 1 and bank 2 running lean but they popped up many miles ago. I'm thinking either a vacuum leak or throttle control. I checked the operation of the cable and the throttle valve and they appear to be fine. Maybe the idle air control?
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This is the not about the plagued 2007/2008 ES350 with the tranmission issue. This is more of a generic issue. My car is a 2009 Lexus ES350 Premium line and was bought as a CPO from a Lexus dealership in Feb 2013. Currently mileage is ~98k KM
Issue: From a cold start and driving the car coming to a complete stop, I've noticed that the shifting from higher gear (2 or 3) down to the first gear at around 15-20 km/h is very abrupt. This is a little bit noticeable during the warm summer months and more pronounced during the winter cold months.
Changes: 1) Flushed transmission fluid last summer at Lexus dealership when the car was at ~78k KM, the issue is still present in the summer but a little less obvious.
What I know about the car is that:Cold start of car, the engine's RPM runs higher until car switches from open to closed loop operation (or was it from close to open loop?) When engine runs at higher RPM, car would want to lunge forward a bit. This is normal and expected. Anyway to assist the engine warm-up faster? (Coolant change? Thermostat change?)
Once the car starts to warms-up (i.e. thermostat shows at about 1/4 of the entire gauge range). This is no longer an issue. When car is fully warmed-up the gauge is at about 1/2 marking as a reference point. So when car is starting to warm-up, is the transmission fluid warming up faster than the engine due to the shifting? Or is the fluid warming up due to the warmth from the engine bay?
Desired Final Results: We all know that Lexus are well known for a smooth and comfortable ride. And from a cold start, the shift characteristics isn't smooth. What can be done to solve this issue?
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I recently purchased a 2004 Excursion Limited v10 with 129,000 miles.
It has developed a strange sound only when it is shifting to the high gear where the tach drops down to abour 1500 rpms.
It sounds like a 'whump' momentarily, but doesn't seem to be slipping after that. I don't know if the tranny fluid has been changed, although it looks clear on the dipstick.
One mechanic said they would not do a transmission flush on a vehicle with more than 75,000 miles because they didn't want to be responsible for tranny problems caused by doing that. What's going on?
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2014. Noticed the feel and sometimes clunk when shifting to 4 high? My house sits up a hill and this time of year, routinely have to use 4X4 to get up. There is a little more noise and vibration than im use to. Usually shift coming down a semi flat dirt/ice road at low speeds, typically about 10mph. Going in for first oil change soon and was gonna ask them to check it out for peace of mind.
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I made a big mistake, I was cleaning out my truck and accidentally switched my 4 wheel drive to the 4 low position. Not knowing this I started the truck and just drove it all day. Then I noticed my mistake and now the truck will not shift into either 4 high or 4 low!
The truck drives just fine, I feel no pull when I turn to the left or right so it seems that it never did any shifting into 4 high or 4 low, so I'm looking for recommendations on maybe how to fix?
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I was preparing my sons 2004 escape (3.0L) for a vacation by changing out the spark plugs. When done, I noticed that the engine lacks power during acceleration and has a very high shifting point from normal (3500 rpm). There were no DTC's set so I took it all apart again, this time changing the intake manifold gaskets both upper and lower. I put it all back together and have the same issue. I have double checked (actually quadruple checked) all of the vacuum lines and electronic connections but to no avail. The truck still has very poor power, at idle it bottoms out around 500 rpm. From a start at a stop sign, with the pedal floored it takes a city block to get up to 35 mph. Where I can look next?
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1991, F-250, automatic, 150,000 miles, two tanks. Used mostly for towing an RV plus some pleasure. Not in daily use. A month ago I parked it and a few days later cranked it up and found it wouldn't run over thirty MPH. There was some high pitched backfire in the engine compartment and the trans. wouldn't shift. I parked it and the next day it wouldn't start. When I turned the key on the fuel pumps (either tank) ran continuously. Towed to a garage (I am not a Mechanic). They have replaced the fuel pressure control, checked all pressures and it still won't run right. The problem is intermittent. My tranny man said the trans was good. My mechanics don't know what to do. I bought it in 1998.
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1999 ranger, 2.55 speed. truck idles with very high rpm's when driving and shifting gears. have changed the AIC, mass air sensor. Throttle position sensor and still does it. the AIC has been changed 5-6 times in 6-8 months as parts store kept telling me it was that. What can i look at, check, etc...
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My car recently started running overtemp not much, but enough to bother me. I flushed the system with no change. after about a week with continued symptoms, my trans started shifting hard between 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd, and running rough in general, sputtering lightly in high gear. I assumed it was running over temp with the rest of the car, so I replaced the radiator and the radiator cap, yet still am having the same problem. Is it still related to the cooling system? if I replace the water pump will i solve my problems, or is it really a hidden trans problem? I'm fairly certain the trans has never been serviced, and I'm reluctant to do so given the high milage, 174,000. The fluid is full, but its very thin, and no longer red, its sort of a pale yellow.
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Tranny started acting funny recently...shifting hard into reverse at first, then last night it was like it was stuck in high gear or slipping on the way home. Limped it home and took the following codes:
P0743 TORQUE CONVERTER CIRCUIT ELECTRICAL
P0750 SHIFT SOLENOID A MALFUNCTION
P0755 SHIFT SOLENOID B MALFUNCTION
P0760 SHIFT SOLENOID C MALFUNCTION
P0765 SHIFT SOLENOID D MALFUNCTION
P0962 PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID A CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
P0966 PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID B CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
P0970 PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID C CONTROL CIRCTUT LOW
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2011 Focus 2.0L L4 engine, manual transmission, 70K miles - when up-shifting gears, the throttle remains high, dropping v-e-r-y slowly instead of dropping rapidly when the throttle is released. It is the same when not moving, when the throttle is run up to steady RPM's, then the pedal is released, the RPM's drop slowly. This has started recently, at first I thought it was just 'operator error', and that our shifting skills were deteriorating with age (ours, not the car), but testing has proven the fault lies with the vehicle. I researched sticking throttle issues, and thought I had located the problem as a bad throttle body assembly. Changed it out with a new one, went thru the computer reset procedure,and the problem still exists. No error codes are showing, but the little yellow wrench light is lit on the dash (resets each startup. Vehicle drives fine otherwise, no loss of power, etc.
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My excursion's trans is slipping on the 25hp tune up high in the RPM band and shutters when up shifting. I have dropped to stock most of the time, but I know i am on borrowed time.
I had a JW trans in my e99, and there is no question on the durability and performance of the transmission. The price has gone up a lot, but that's maybe not the big issue.
I live in the mountains and spend a lot of time pulling and just driving in that 40 to 60 mph range over mountain passes. That is basically where I spend ALL of my time.
The distance between 3rd and 4th is driving me CRAZY! I have researched everything from swapping to a manual, to PCS controllers, to trying 4.11 gears, to overdrive units.
Swapping Manual: ZF6 is the obvious candidate, but I have read the swap is not probably something I have the skills or tools to do. I have also read that the performance of the ZF6 is sub par. But it seems like it would give me my 3.5 gear that I am looking for.
PCS Controller: Looks cool for a way to have control besides using the tree shift. Maybe a compromise on not swapping in a manual.
4.11 Gears: I get pretty excited thinking about the low end torque etc. I go off road almost every week, and like I said, I hardly go over 75 mph. But once in a while I do. Right now, the truck turns about 2300- 2500 rpm at interstate cruising speed. Looking for 4.10s rpm in that range to compare? Also, how bad of a fuel economy hit would I take? What is the cruising rpm of 4.10's between 60 and 65 mph, or in general what is the rpm change?
Overdrive Unit: I have always been interested in more gears, but I read about someone who installed one behind a 7.3 and didn't have they great of results. To the point where he said it wasn't worth it.
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