Why the temperature in the car goes from sometimes not nearly warm enough to feel like your face is baking in the oven? Michigan cold weather...BTW. How to get this more stable....
View 9 RepliesI have a 2006 Prius with 165K miles. My MPG suddenly went down 20% (47 to 38). Tires are fully inflated. I did change to high-mileage oil at last service, could this be the cause?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 Nissan Sentra. In Nov. 2010 had inspection done and replaced upper radiator hose at that time. Right after that, I had no heat and the temperature gauge would go up to hot but then come right back down. Brought it back to mechanic, changed thermostat and both things ok only part way home. Started riding with coworker only driving to her house 7 miles away and still temperature gauge up and down, stopped driving completely in Feb. Just brought it to dealer who replaced thermostat and worked fine all the way home and then started all over again the next day. Seems to happen faster at higher speed but will eventually do it in any driving conditions. Today service engine soon light came on. Obviously not thermostat problem. Could it be water pump? Dealer did pressure test and that came back fine so no head gasket problem although don't have a lot of faith in that since problem still exists and they thought thermostat would fix it.
View 19 RepliesI have 02 camry xle with digital a/c , the a/c only works on max cold, if i set the temp to 65 ot 70 ot any number it will become heat ,
View 2 RepliesThis is a 2004 RX330. Unable to adjust temperature on driver side.
Symptoms - may appear to be defective heat or defective A/C on driver side only (depending on the position of the mix damper).
Solution -- replace mixer damper assembly servo (this controls the mix of hot and cold air on the driver side). This is a dual climate control, so each side has dedicated dampers.
So, if unable to change "where" the air coming out, the damper with the red arrow would require replacement.
If unable to control the temperature, the damper with the blue arrow would require replacement.
I will post pictures, after I repair my own. I'll be replacing the damper with the blue arrow.
This photo was taken with my feet on the drivers head-rest and my head pressing the accelerator.
Our 2005 Sonata GLS with 100,000 miles has a digitally controlled system for the heater & A/C. For more than 2 years the only way to get heat was to raise the temperature up into the 85 - 90 degree range. Now we must put it all the way up to 90. When we do, the heat is extreme.
View 1 RepliesI am losing heat intermittently and temperature gauge spikes out intermittently. Got down to intake gasket and it is visibly bad but wonder if i should keep going to replace head gasket?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2010 chevy silverado. No matter where I turn the blower selector switch, it always comes out of the vents. Also no matter where I turn the temperature selector knob, it's always cold. It's a company truck that I can't get fixed soon because of downtime and I'm not supposed to take it to get fixed on my own time. It was 37 degrees this morning on my drive into work.
View 4 RepliesMy 2005 Honda Civic has just started doling out heat when it feels like it regardless of where I set the dial. It seem that when I am accelerating or applying gas, heat is available but when I am stopped at a light or coasting downhill, cold air is all that is available. Is this a thermostat issue or something more dire?
View 1 RepliesThe car is a Taurus Wagon. It does not put out any heat. It is a flapper door issue. I tried changing the blend door actuator as the old one did not move when the temperature was changed from cold to hot. Unfortunately the NEW one doesn't either, nor does it move when left hanging, not in the dash. It is an automatic temperature control unit. When I had the actuator out from under the dash, I could move the blend doors easily with the little lever, and get excellent heat, so I know it's not a heater core issue.
Everything on the dash unit, which includes the stereo/radio controls and buttons to shift the air from floor to defrost seems to work fine. It shows the desired temp, but won't go to it. I have checked two fuses that are supposed to feed the HVAC system. I have even installed a different dash unit from another Taurus to see if it made any difference. That included a second temperature sensor, the "Y" shaped thing near where the white hose connects to the back side of dash unit.
I admit, I'm lost. I don't have a good wiring diagram, and don't know if I could read it well enough if I did.
Is there a relay or something in the system between the controller and the actuator that I don't know about?
Which wire or wires in the multi-pin connector that plugs into the blend door actuator are supposed to be hot at what point?
I have an '09 Plat SCREW with the dual zone climate control. No matter what temp I set I'm only getting cold air out of the drivers side IP & floor vents as well as the two rear facing vents in the top of the center console. Since I'm out of warranty I'm wondering if there's anything I can check or fix on my own without taking it into the dealer.
View 9 RepliesIt was a cold winter in Boston in the last two months. And since then almost every time I started my 2005 Prius, the temperature was default to 75F. Also, the first time I start the car in a day, it almost show the outside temperature as Celsius instead of Fahrenheit unless I press the screen to display something else and then come back, then the Fahrenheit will come back.
View 9 RepliesI have a 1.8T with 152kmiles
Recently, both the coolant reservoir 'Y' connector and the driver side coolant flange cracked and I was shooting G12 all over the engine. I've replaced both of the parts and the coolant temp sensor with a "green top". Reservoir was refilled with the proper ratio of G12 to distilled water, ran for a bit and topped off accordingly.
This morning I started my drive to work and the engine temp was at 0 for a minute or so and started to climb slowly to 190. It stayed at 190 until I took the exit to the highway and the temp slowly started to rise while I was at 60mph. I immediately turned around and went back home with the heat cranked to high. With the heat on, the engine temp would slowly go down but then rise again if I, A. turned the heat off or B. made a hard pull up to ~55+mph.
I popped the hood and the coolant was not boiling and I couldn't see/smell/hear any leak. could this be the thermostat or is this a water pump issue? I plan on taking the thermostat off and checking the pump empellars for any shards. I'm not sure but I do believe the water pump was replaced by my parents while I was on deployment.
I was cruising the parking lot going around 5 miles an hour and all the sudden I felt a big jolt like somebody rear ended it me. I look back and nobody was there. It was the car down shift dramatically that scared me. That was weird. I know what it feels like down shifting in S mode but it was never felt like this.
View 3 Replies2006 Honda Odyssey with about 120,000 miles on it. Check engine light and VSA light came on at the same time. Car vibrates dramatically and has little to no acceleration. Put off the engine and restarted. Car worked fine after that. Has happened twice in the last 2 weeks. What this might be + what do I need to do to fix it?
View 14 RepliesI have an '06 Subaru Forester (4 cyl, automatic) with about 97,000 miles on it. For the past 5 years I've had the car, it's been getting roughly 26-28 mpg on average. Within the past 3-4 months, though, the fuel economy has dramatically decreased. Now, I'm lucky if I get 21 mpg. (I used to be able to get almost 350 miles per tank, and now if I make it to 275 I'm jumping for joy!)
I took my car to the shop for the 90K service, and they didn't change the fuel filter as a part of that service. (They did replace the coolant, replace oil & filter, replace spark plugs, replace differential fluid front & rear, replace brake fluid, replace auto transaxle fluid, and then they did a bunch of inspections on belts, hoses, brakes, etc.)
I took the car back to the shop after this service so they could change the fuel filter, and they told me that because of the type of fuel filter I have, it should last the lifetime of the car. This sounded a little fishy to me, so is this true?
Just traded in a 2012 Nissan Sentra SR on a 2013 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport and have a question about the gas mileage.
My Sentra always read 28+ MPG, but it was a known issue that the reading was almost exactly 3 MPG off; thus, I was hitting about 25 MPG most of the time. I could typically get by for a week and a half, sometimes two on a single tank (which was about 11 gallons).
I took the Santa Fe home on Thursday night, filled up from the dealer and reading a range of 384 MTE. As of tonight (Saturday), my fuel meter is reading two notches over the halfway mark and the range has dropped to 232 MTE. I haven't driven anywhere near 150 miles since Thursday, FYI.
The MPG on the Santa Fe started t a measly 12 MPG when I left the lot, most likely due to sitting and idling and lots of stop-and-go driving on test drives. I've since managed to get it up to 22.2 MPG (and feel confident it should eventually read about 25 MPG, about the same as my Sentra). Even though the MPG reading is going up, I feel like I'm going to be filling up the tank again without hitting a full week of driving (and this is a bigger tank than the Sentra). I'm not getting the difference. Is there an issue that I'm missing here? After checking in with the dealer that the previous owners used for service to ensure there were no red flags, they did tell me that it had an active bulletin for a software update. I've read in other places here that this update can have some effect on the MPG. Any thought on if these things are connected?
My 91 4 runner, with 192k miles, has very scarily lost power twice on the highway. She gets to about 50mph and then drops to 40, 30, 20 rapidly. First time I had her towed because I didn't want to take the chance I couldn't arrive safely at mechanic. 2nd time, I just sat for awhile with her running, and tried and succeeded to get her to mechanic. First time, mechanic thought there was some boot loose around the fuel line.Second time, mechanic is stumped.
She has new fuel & air filter (and battery + leads); catalytic converter tested fine. Had a tuneup less than 5k miles ago.While I feel safe driving around town, I am terrified of highway driving and need getting it fixed so I can resume highway driving.
So this may be a really dumb question, but here goes. I have a new to me 2001 v10 gas 4x4 ex. It has obviously been lifted in the past. The springs seem totally shot as the back end is quite a bit lower than the front and drops dramatically while towing. I am adding a helwig and have a wd hitch but have not set it up yet. So my question is can i do the spring swap? It would seem that i would need to address whatever changes are made from the stock ride but im not sure. I like the current lift and would be fine keeping it and adding the lift from the new springs.
View 14 RepliesHow to always display the outside temperature?
View 15 RepliesI purchased my Prius in CA in late 2008. As the CA temperature was not drastic, the heater temperature was never an issue. Two years ago I moved to CO. Today, for instance, short sleeved weather, but only 35 outside - the sun is out, it's a great day. Now for those that don't live in CO, this may seem cold.. but here's the issue, my heater goes from LOW to 65, 66, ... and up.. there are many times 65 is way to warm, and "LOW" (the outside temp) is too cold, so I toggle back and forth. Is there any way I can reduce the heat coming into the car, so when it's at 65 (reading) perhaps it's warming to 55.
View 19 Replies