Prius (Gen 2) :: Headlights Stayed On And Drained 12v Battery
Mar 12, 2015
I was waiting in the mall parking lot. I never got out of the car, so the headlights stayed on and drained the 12v battery. A good Samaritan "jumped" the car with a portable jump-start device. The next morning, I hit PriusChat and found out about the system diagnostic. It shows that battery has one foot in the grave and another on a banana peel - 12.1v at rest and dropping to 9.8v with the dome light on for a few minutes! Back to PriusChat to research replacement batteries, their sourcing and installation.
I have an Optima Yellow Top on order, as well as a pair of those jump-starters (One for the Pruis and one for the pickup). Before I install the new battery, should I have it trickle-charged overnight?
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My wife and I bought a 2006 prius almost a year ago and after going away for several weeks we came back with the battery completely drained. I was able to charge it back up. But after that, on the very first drive, most if not all CEL lights (Check engine, the triangular sign, ((!)), VSC) were on. I figured it was probably related to the battery that got drained since we had no problems before, and after all these warnings came the vehicle does not drive any different.
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Battery was fully charged when left it at night that in the morning the battery level would be less. This happened to a friend of mine twice so far.
The first time it happened she accidentally left the lights 'on' which supposed to turn off on their own after 30sec. But in the morning she's only left with 2 bars from fully charged. And a week later it happened again but without leaving the lights 'on', from almost full charge to 3 bars of battery in the morning.
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I've had a 2004 Prius for about one year. It has ~120K miles and has been a great car. We left a light on, and the 12V battery died. We jumped it and everything seems to work fine, except now the air conditioner isn't working.
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Loaned my car to a friend who left something on and drained the 12v battery. Some "good person" tried to jump start the car and was unsuccessful. When I got there I attempted to jump start from the front and direct to the battery in the back, both unsuccessful. After having it hauled back, I charged the battery with my charger, no luck. When I put the keyfob in, press the break, and push the power on button; get green light on the power on button and a check engine light on the panel. This 12v battery is original battery and car has 100K miles.
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Just had my first battery boost for my year-old Prius 2K10.
This morning I went to start the car, it didn't open the door for me, then I had all troubles in the world turning the key ... And obviously nothing was opening, no lights, nothing.
I had my car boosted. First time they put the booster, I couldn't start the car (everything showed up but starting the car didn't start the conventional motor - the lights were all on). They unplugged it (everything disappeared yet again) and plugged it back in ... Then I could start my car. Of course, everything was reset: time, trip meters, everything.
That's where I noticed my battery indicator was half-full.
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I'm hoping I can get some diagnostic insight into a problem I just started seeing on my 2007 Prius. I have had the Prius for a little over 4 years. Currently around 123K miles.
Starting two days ago I noticed when I started driving that the engine was constantly running and when pulling out from a stop sign just up the road from my house the acceleration was sluggish. I look at the MFD and see the hybrid battery is nearly drained. Unusual because it was blue or green when I parked the night before. Driving for a few minutes, the battery fills back up and driving is normal. The only warning light is for a tire pressure sensor which just started to come on that day. Over the last two days I get the same thing at start up. Hybrid battery is drained. Lights aren't left on over night. Tire sensor light is constantly on but I checked the tires and pressure is good all around. Nothing plugged in anywhere to drain battery. The 12V battery was replaced maybe a year or so ago with an Optima yellow top, so not likely the issue. I checked diagnostic codes in the MFD and came up with a lot of codes:
LAN Monitor EMV:
01-DB 190- 40- 5
01-DE 178- FA-1
01-DB1F1- E5- 4
01-DB 110- 8A- 7
01-DB 178- 46- 3
LAN Monitor NAVI:
01-E3 - 00- F
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I just bought a certified 2010 Prius and have had it for 3 months now. Twice within one month, there was absolutely no power to start the car because the aux battery went dead overnight. I'm pretty sure I didn't leave any lights on and don't think I did anything differently when exiting the car for those 2 times. I took it into the dealership, and they couldn't find anything wrong. They said the battery was good. What is draining the battery overnight?
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The 12V battery must have been drained completely over the weekend. None of the lights (interior and exterior) are working. The car won't start even using jumper cable. I guess the 12v battery must have some juice remaining to power up the computer in order to jump start the engine. Am I correct in this assumption?
My Prius is only a little over three years. What is the warranty on the 12v battery? I read that the OE battery is not the best. How long would I expect the OE 12v battery to last?
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Yesterday when I went to start my week old PIP, the battery was drained. There was no power to start and no power to the dome lights etc. I got out the owners manual and on page 594 there were instructions to jump start which I did. I drove it to the dealer and they checked it out. They said the 12V battery state of charge was 50% after being jumped and driven for 30 minutes. They then charged it to a full state of charge. They couldn't find any other drain overnight.
I am trying to determine why this happened. The reason was not apparent. No interior lights were left on. There were no other electronics attached. We had driven the preceding two days in EV mode virtually exclusively. I don't recall if the ICE came on. The car sat unused for 36 hours. It had been plugged in to charge the traction battery and it charged via the timer without any apparent errors.
The service tech wondered if the battery had been fully charged prior to delivery. I know the traction battery had not been fully charged because I was anxious to take delivery. Could this be a consequence of driving in EV mode almost exclusively?
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About a yr ago I bought a 2010 Prius with about 36,000 miles on it. Now I'm just about to crack 50,000. Late into the winter I began hearing this sound and thought it was odd. I figured it had something to do with the fact that it was winter and the engine/battery were working together to warm the car up as well as charge the battery. I took it to Toyota this past week and of course the "Service Experts" claimed this was "normal" as one of the managers owns a prius and claims they all do this. I know this to be false due to having owned one for a year now as well as reading up on a lot of the great info poster in here. Now in the defense of the mechanic that day, my battery was pretty well charged. The sound isnt nearly as harsh when the battery stays at or around half way charged.
Today while doing some cleaning inside my car i left the air on. As a result my battery drained low enough for the battery to begin charging. This brought on that miserable sound that continues to get louder and more noticeable with time.
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I went to drive to work today and found that my battery was drained. None of my interior lights were on and I'm 100% sure I turned the car off last night after I backed it into the garage. Last night I drove the car home and was mostly on EV, but drove the last 3-4 miles on ICE. I had the car charging overnight too. This morning, with the battery dead and the cable plugged in, it was making a click sound near the fuse box when I tried to start it.
The passenger seat's heater was on (I think) and I don't think any of the doors were ajar. The only door that could have been opened would be the driver's but I don't think it was half closed.
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I left the key on and drained my auxiliary battery(It was weak before) and when I jumped it it started and then shut off after ~20 seconds. I tried various different things and all I succeeded in doing was draining my HV battery from starting it so many times. So I disassembled the pack and recharged it and now it starts and runs but it is misfiring. It throwing 4 codes:
P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0302: Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0304: Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P1305: Ignition Coil 2 Primary Feedback Circuit
I inspected the igniters and plugs and they seem to be OK and I'm not sure where to look next. I'm not sure if the battery issue is related or not but I did replace the auxiliary battery.
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I had problems with the 12v battery, it was drained and I had to recharge it, which meant disconnecting the negative/ground/earth cable. Ever since the rear door opening button on the outside of the car won't work.
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I am pretty new to Toyota Prius. Today I went to test drive a jap import 2nd Gen 1.5 Prius with 50k miles. What I found weird with the car was that, on the startup the petrol engine also started and it was on for the duration I was driving. I then turned on the EV mode and the petrol engine turned off but looking at the battery capacity on the screen, the battery drained pretty quickly possibly (2-3 minutes) and the petrol engine kicked in. Is this normal for 2nd gen prius cars ?
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I got the car running again, so no need to go into details on that (I used the physical key on the keyfob, you really do have to turn it further than you'd think, but that got me into the car, after several tries was able to get it to stop cycling through the locking/unlocking and was able to jump it).
Got the 12v battery in my Prius replaced by the dealership in the last 2 years. Last winter, one day my Prius refused to start even though it had been running fine earlier that day and was parked in a semi-heated garage. Jumped it and got it working.
Last Friday I went to get out of my car and my Prius kept beeping at my any time I had the door open, and the clock on the dash seemed to be a little dim. I doubled checked that the keyfob was in my pocket (and not in the holder thingy), eventually the car seemed to lock fine and I went up to my apartment. Didn't drive the car until this morning.
This morning I come down to find that keyless entry does not work, nor does pressing the unlock button on the keyfob. (The car is parked in heated underground parking fyi.) About every 1 second on repeat, the car is making this sound like it makes when you hit the lock/unlock button from the inside of the car, so it seemed like it was stuck in an endless loop of locking or unlocking. I go back upstairs, leave my key fob in my apartment (which is around 300 meters away or so), come back down - it's still on the loop making that sound.
I get into the car with the physical door key, try starting it - the lights will come on but the car doesn't seem to actually start. And the endless lock/unlock loop starts up against once I turn the car "off". I got upstairs and switch to my other backup keyfob. Come back down. Car is still in the endless loop. Try to start it again, car still doesn't seem to start, but this time when I turn it "off" the endless lock/unlock cycle finally stops. Do finally get it running by jumping the battery, then it seems to run fine.
So I bring it to the dealer, and the guy their rather vehemently insist there must be something wrong with my keyfob. First he immediately confidently assures me that I just need to replace the battery in the keyfob, which makes no sense. Then he changes to saying he thinks the lock button on the keyfob was stuck down, which doesn't make sense either as like I said it continued doing it even when I removed any keyfob from being anywhere near the car.
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I have a 2000 ford explorer sport. For some reason the battery is being drained when my wife runs errons. It will start fine and she can make a couple stops then it will be dead. Is this just because the battery won't hold much or a charge anymore? This is the original battery. I checked the cable and they looked fine. It will charge up so she can start the next morning but like I said. If she has to make a few stops it goes dead. Looking for options before I start re-building the whole thing?...
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I went to start my GS in the garage this morning and nothing happened. I couldn't even open the trunk or turn on any interior lights. I checked the battery with a multi-meter and it shows 5.25V. So for whatever reason, the battery drained itself overnight. I'm positive no lights were left on or doors left open. So this is a total mystery to me.
What might have caused this? Also, how to open the trunk after the battery dies. The car has been great for the first 7k miles and problem free until now.
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My friends have a 2002 Accent with the 1.6 DOHC that I've been puttering around with all weekend.
The door was left open a crack and the battery drained. It was brought in, didn't charge right (he said he accidentally put the cables on reverse). Tried to install it, still did not start, put it back on charger correctly, and then re-installed. It was unknown at the time, but the black cable that went from the negative post to the fuse box popped off, and then he said there was no lights in the car, but tried to start it anyway.
We tested the battery both with a voltmeter and at a parts store - its testing like a brand new battery. I've tested all the fuses in the box under the hood, and in the box by the driver's feet. I also tested continuity in the ground to the engine, ground to the body, ground to the fuse box, and the alternator to the fuse box cables. All the wires show up as less than 0.5 ohms resistance (I'm assuming since I didn't get an infinity reading that they are intact).
I then tried to just put the key in the 'on' position to see what I could get - no interior lights, no start, no accessories at all. It wouldn't even let me shift it with the key in. I've got no clue what left to try. I guess these don't really have a "main relay" but at any event I don't know how to properly test these relays anyhow.
This used to be my car, and last year I replaced the positive cable to the starter, and the CD player was erroring out (it kept reading that there was a CD being inserted then stopping and then turning on the radio) so I just pulled the fuse under the hood. I don't know if they would have some effect over a year after the fact.
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Current issue: fuel pump stays on and has drained battery. I do know the door switch has been acting up with the usual symptoms (automatic locking at inappropriate times, lights not coming on, etc.). I know the fuel pump will often not start because of faulty door switch, but I've not heard of it causing the pump to run continuously. I haven't found much in search.
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Where this buzzer is located? under the dash(where)? Mine doesn't seem to work anymore. I've drained my battery like 5 times already.
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