Need to replace at least one rear wheel bearing, but still not positive which side. Getting a whump whump whump and slight howl at speed that seems to be worse going around right turns, so will change the drivers side first.
View 3 RepliesMy dealership said our left rear is noisy and that we need new wheel bearings and a speed sensor and to do an alignment and balance. I called my other wheel place and they are about $300 cheaper. But, they said I have the option of an OEM wheel bearing or different one. I'm a little confused, but I think the OEM would be about $85 more, if I understood correctly. Whether or not to get OEM for this?
View 19 RepliesI have a 2010 model 5 and am experiencing a woo, woo, woo, woo type sound. I thought it was from the rear but after jacking up and turning each rear wheel, all I hear is the slight drag from the pads on the disc. The car has 61K on it and from previous posts that seems to be about the mileage range for one. It is most noticeable above 25 to 45 mph. Bad front bearing with this sound? The car is covered under the platinum warranty so cost is not a problem, just getting it diagnosed is useful.
View 14 RepliesMy 2006 Prius with now 68,000 miles just had both front wheel bearings replaced today from an independent shop in town with a good reputation.
View 13 RepliesI have a rear wheel bearing type of noise that appears to come from the rear. My vehicle is front wheel drive and has 135K miles.
I checked the rear wheel bearing/hub assys on both sides and they had no play but I changed them anyway. Noise did not change at all. Rear tires have normal wear, no cupping or anything. Noise gets louder with increasing speed up to a point and then remains a constant level.
My next thought is to check the front wheel bearings/cv joints.
I'm replacing the rear hub/bearing assembly on my 2010 Prius. It seems pretty straight forward. What is the correct torque for the 4 bolts holding it on? Also what is the correct torque for the 2 bolts holding the rear brake caliper on?
View 4 RepliesCurrently doing a road trip in my R and I've noticed after a considerable amount of time on the road, there's a howl noise emanating from the rear when keeping speed. Goes away under light acceleration. I can even hear it over the radio. After resting the car and me (12 hrs) I get back on the road and after a couple of hours the howl comes back. Is it the rear diff? I don't think it's wheel bearings. Tires have a different noise. 2013 R w/ 4000 miles. Or is it just what happens when you drive for hours on end?
View 15 RepliesI thought I'd share, my rear wheel hub was very bad, wheel wobble when shook about a width of a quarter (found by the tire shop during tire purchase).
Shops were charging $450-$600 to do the work, however the part by itself is a bearing / hub combo, no need to separate the two, the dealer price for the part is around $250 and the OEM grade from Autozone was $90.
I didn't want to fork out that much money to do the work that looked simple, I was just concerned about the hammering to get the hub off the car.
At 46,400 miles of gentle driving, my left wheel bearing failed on my 2010 Prius, which was not covered by warranty because it is not 'drive train'. I was told there was nothing I did or could have done to cause this. I have had 4 Toyotas, two with over 200,000 miles, and never had this serious a repair (that wasn't my fault!). Am I being unreasonable to think this is unusual? I'm wondering if this car is going to continue to be a problem.
View 19 RepliesMy rear passenger tire spins easily and makes noise. Here is the link to video....
View 6 RepliesSince I got my car back from the dealership after changing the rear shock this summer, I can feel a vibration in the car at highway speed. After the shock were replaced the car steering wheel was out of balance and pulling one side. After they attempt to align the car about 5 times it got a little bit better. Then I found out that they had an accident with my car and tried to hide it: [URL] ....
I suspect the tie rod may have been damaged so that could explain the steering issue. It also seems to have gotten worse over time. I'm trying to figure out the possible cause, if directly related to the tie rod damage or indirectly as if the tie rod damage could have caused uneven tire wear and then causing the vibration over time. I've attached some pictures, the 2 first are from the front passenger side, the 2 last from the front driver side. My tire are the Michelin pilot and this thread seems to suggest those tire might be hard to align properly: [URL] ....
I'm due for my winter tire change soon and see if thing gets better, I'll get them balanced too. I'll check at the same time for control arms/shock damage. But still, I would like some feedback and see if those tread wear are normal and hopefully get to the root of the problem (the outer edge on the tire in the back are much less damaged).
I drove our 2007 Prius (79K miles) the other day and noticed a whirring or slight grating noise whenever I loaded up the left front wheel (by steering right) at speed. It's far from a hum or a howl at this point.
View 14 RepliesI replaced the driver's side wheel bearing on my 2001 venture and now the ABS light goes on about 5 to 10 seconds after starting the car. It stays on through out the drive. Before the light goes on I get a sound as if passing your fingers up and down an old fashioned washboard. I have read throughout these threads to replace the bearing but I don't foresee that happening. How can this bearing be bad when the car feels great driving now.
View 13 RepliesMy 2005 GMC Sierra has just >80,000 kms on it, and I'm having to replace a second wheel bearing hub. A few months ago, the rear left wheel almost came off because the bearings were falling out of the hub. Yesterday, the same thing happened while traveling on a highway with the front left wheel. While my truck was being pulled up onto the tow truck, all the bearings fell out of the wheel - one was completely ground, the others were perfect. A few more turns or bumps and I suspect I would have lost the wheel.
I didn't have any grinding noises with the front tire (although I did with the rear) - the front hub deteriorated really quickly (within 100kms of driving), and it sounded like cables snapping while driving which was likely the bearings tumbling around.
Having problems with the GMC Sierra wheel bearing hubs/integrated ABS sensors? Should the hubs be wearing out so quickly? It seems like a safety hazard to me, since there wasn't any early warning signs of a major hub meltdown.
And I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it, but I've also had to have my rotors ground down 3 times and replaced once since new.
Just had an oil change and during inspection they noticed that the drivers side wheel bearing is starting to go. They brought me back in the shop and I was able to feel the play in the bearing myself. Only a matter of time before it needs to be replaced.
How to replace the front wheel bearing/hub assembly? I don't have a press for the bearing itself so I'm assuming I can just replace the entire hub assembly. I have already replaced the drivers side rear hub assembly about 1.5 years back due to a bad bearing
I have sonata 2006 v6 3.3. Over the weekend Left rear wheel bearing was replaced. Right after the replacement ABS + ESC OFF lights came on and stayed. I took the battery connection out and restart the car but no difference. There is no affect on driving or performance car drives normally, Cruise operation works normal as well. Mechanic scanned and scanner showed right real wheel sensor malfunction. He claimed that he didn't even open the right rear wheel. I am hoping it's not the sensor.
View 4 Replies2006 Sonata with 90k ... When I make right turns the left front wheel is making a rubbing sound with the motion of the wheel. It's not doing it on a straight line, just turning right. I've talked to a couple of my friends and they are telling me it's a wheel bearing. I have a service manual but it's not really going into detail on what I'm in for. I work on motorcycles all the time and my good friend said he has a press if I can bring him the knuckle and the OEM bearing. Looking for a little guidance before I take the wheel off and get started. Are there any special tools involved, etc...should I do the other side while I'm doing this also...
View 11 RepliesI m about to replace the front wheel bearing of my 2000 1.8 t I already rent the tool (hub and bearing puller and installer) from german auto parts.com but looking for pics of step by step of the process before starting the job.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 Passat and brought it to a local shop to have the left front wheel bearing changed. He took the car apart and said he couldnt do it because the anti lock brake wire ran threw the control arm and had no plug on it and was wired right to the dash board. Should i find a different place to take it to or is it a dealer required fix. Can i buy the bearing myself and change it?
View 1 RepliesI had the drivers side rear wheel bearing replaced and now the ABS warning light is on. The shop also replaced the wheel speed sensor. The car appears to drive fine and the brakes work fine, although without ABS. The light does not come on immediately upon start up. It normally will appear after the car is driven a bit, could be a few hundred yards or a mile.
My first thought is that whatever it is that serves as a "trigger" for the speed sensor got damaged during bearing replacement. I don't know what this trigger is, or exactly where it is located, presumably in the hub.
I have decent mechanical ability and recently took off both front wheel knuckles to have the wheel bearings pressed out and new ones back in. I own a 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 with 106,000 miles. I didn’t have much problem getting the wheel hub knuckles off and back on and after they were reinstalled with all bolts tightened, I took the car for a test drive and right away knew something was very wrong. I heard the sound of the drive-shaft CV joint boot twisting and there was a serious lack of power. The engine speed did not correspond with the vehicle speed. Continuing a little ways, small metal noises could be heard from the passenger side wheel. The only indication I had of some problem from that side was during the reinstallation of the drive shaft into the wheel hub. The CV joint dust boot was fully extended and didn’t compress like it should. I put the car back on jacks, took off the wheel and saw that the drive-shaft boot was all twisted. It was obvious that power was going through the drive-shaft past the first CV joint, but no power was making it past the second CV joint to the wheel.
Knowing that something was seriously wrong, I had it towed to Firestone down the road. The mechanic removed the boot and said that the drive-shaft had broke. I also inspected this and saw that the drive-shaft was not connected at the wheel hub. The morning of, the car was working just fine without problems. The tool I used to remove the drive shaft from the wheel hub was a Seven Ton Reversible Puller which I rented from O'Reilly's Auto store. The drive shaft was so stuck on, that I had to use an impact wrench to turn the bolt. Could the highly forced removal of the drive-shaft from the wheel hub shatter the CV joint on the drive-shaft?
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