Prius (Gen 2) Fuel :: Put The Car In Neutral And Put It Back In D
Jul 25, 2010
Is there any harm being done by putting the car in neutral to force a coast then putting it back in "D" to charge up the battery just before coming to a stop? I've changed my driving patterns and started heavy usage of the CC and putting the car in neutral for a forced coast, but putting the car back in D just before coming to a stop or even after the down-slope coast ends. Just before going back up hill.
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Something is awry with my 2008 Prius. It started a couple of weeks ago when I was starting to back out of my parking place at the P.O. When I put the car into reverse it immediately went back into Neutral. I tried several times to put it in drive and reverse but it kept going back into neutral, I also tried turning the car off and on to no avail. Eventually it would not go into Park and had a warning that the batteries would not charge if the car was not in park. This happened about 4 times in a matter of weeks and then last Saturday (I went to get ice, I live in AZ) the car would not go into drive and did not appear that is was going to go into drive. It ended up that I was able to drive the car home (without the A/C running) by holding the shifter down in drive manually. Ice melts real quick in 100+ heat!
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When temperature surpasses 90 degrees inside car (especially while sitting parked while I'm at work) I have problems getting shifter to stay in gear. When I shift in D or R the shifter immediately shifts back to neutral. I found I can hold the shifter in the desired direction and the car goes like normal.
I tried a test of leaving windows slightly open and found the car cooler inside and the gear shift problems did not occur.
The dealership says the gear shift is electronic, no gears. Is there a switch for this under the panel by the gear shift? I have a 2008 Prius, that I recently purchased used. My wife has a 2005 Prius that we purchased new and have never had an issue like this.
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Is it ok to shift into neutral when the car is moving?
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I'm very puzzled by how prius (2008) decides whether to use gas when I coast with neutral (I only do that if there is a long stretch of the road that is going down the hill). Same roads, same driving style, but sometimes, the gas usage goes to 0 but sometime it continue to use gas. Sometimes if you just let it in the gear a little longer or just press the gas pedal, it would go 0 after switching to neutral. There is no consistency that I can come up with the best method to get it to not to use gas and just slide using the gravity and momentum.
I can understand if it has to fill up the battery but when it uses gas at neutral, no transfer of energy among all parts. The diagram (wheel, engines, battery) shows standstill but it still uses gas. I don't have air on and turn the fan to the lowest and it doesn't make any difference.
A few conclusions I had:
It will always use a little gas at highway speed (55 to 70mph).
It appears to use gas at higher humidity (not sure but the MPG is higher when it's humid).
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I am a new 2010 prius owner and I am very interested in obtaining the max MPG in my new car I have read and seen video with regard to the pulse and glide method. My question is
1. can you shift into neutral on the glide
2. can this do any harm to the car.
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I just posted last week that my check engine light was on and the dealer wanted to replace fuel injectors. But after the fuel throttle was cleaned and oxygen sensor was replaced the check engine light went off. However, yesterday the check engine light came back on. I am talking it back to the dealer, in a couple of days. Where can I go to get to get the error codes read so I have them before I go back to the dealer? Around 128,000 runs fine, around 40 miles per gallon. Last time I had the oil change dealer nothing came up on the 30 point inspection.
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I have a 2002 Camry 4cyl. with 235,000 miles and recently when I had pulled into someones driveway on a downhill slope and when I put the car in reverse and tried to back out, the car revved up like in neutral then slammed into reverse like it was slipping and then slamming into gear. Forward gears seem, what maybe causing it.
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My manual transmission got stuck in 4th because of a melted oil trough sticking between the gears. I got all the plastic out, and the dog clutches/collars are "free." But, I don't know how to put the gears back into neutral. When it's reassembled, the stick doesn't work to change the gears. How can I get the gearbox back into neutral?
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So my turn signal stalk doesn't go back to neutral after a turn.. also, I don't hear the usually " clicking when turning the wheel that you hear when it goes far enough to re-set itself. What controls this action? Its not the clock spring thing commonly referenced to the airbag airbag is it?
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I drive a 2001 Toyota Tacoma 5 Speed manual and as recently as last Friday it seems to have developed a problem with third gear. Occasionally the gearshift will actually pop out of third gear back into neutral. It has happened randomly, but also it has happened at least once when I hit a rather large bump, it seemed to have literally knocked it loose from third gear. On one occasion I tested to see if I could pull it out of third gear without stepping on the clutch, and it worked once, but I have tried it again and it doesn't always let me.
To counter this problem I have been just pushing on the stick all the while in third gear to prevent it from popping out and that seems to work, but I'd like to find a real fix for it, and as usual, if possible, a cheap one.
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My vehicle:
1976 F150 2wd Extended cab
390 4bbl
c6 transmission
4BBL Edlebrock Carb
Dual fuel tanks, only rear main tank connected
My problem: For the first year I owned the truck, everything ran fine and it started up really quickly even after it sat for a few days or a few weeks. I have since, for about the last year or so, had to crank it for 30-45 seconds to get it to start. This all started around the time my fuel pump went out. I replaced it with an Airtex fuel pump from Autozone. I also installed a glass in line filter before the carb in front of the distributor.
I noticed that after about 4-6 hours, the fuel had drained out of the filter and that's when I would have to crank it forever to get it going. It also seems like there is no fuel in the carb as it doesn't even try to start when it first gets cranked. I thought this was a bad pump, so I bought a new one last week and tried it again. Sure enough after about 4-6 hours, everything is empty again and it takes forever to start it. So it's not a bad pump, or so I think.
The other day I backed it into my driveway and left it, something I never do. I checked about 4 days later and there was still fuel in the filter. This makes me think that gravity is making it drain back to the tank.
Is there something that would cause this? Also I have found a one way fuel check valve online that is supposed to remedy this type of problem. Do they work for this situation? Or is there something else I should be doing to fix this? It has taken a bit of a toll on my starting system having to crank so long all the time. I have so far had to replace my starter, starter solenoid, and all the battery cables, starter cable, terminals, etc. due to excessive wear.
The valve I found is here : [URL] .....
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I just changed my fuel tank and now when I try to fill it up it keeps blowing back it never did this before.
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Is it bad shifting from drive to neutral then back to drive going 40mph without pressing on the gas only coasting on a daily bases?
2008 Sonata GLS ... Automatic transmission ...
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I have a '94 E4OD trans in my '53 F100. It uses an analog MLPS for the gear selection indicator, Neutral Safety Switch, and Backup light.
My MLPS Neutral Safety Switch shows continuity in Neutral, but not in Park, I need to be able to energize the starter solenoid in both Park & Neutral.
Shouldn't the MLPS show continuity in both Park & Neutral?
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For about a week now, i've been smelling raw gas near the gas tank. Now i have a gas cap light on??
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I have an 05 s10. The gas gauge will read correctly and then randomly it will drop to no fuel and light the low fuel light. then after a few minutes will pop back up to the proper reading? band sending unit? bad wire? where to look?
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since the fuel tank is under the back seat (4door) Is there access through interior or is dropping exhaust the only way to get to top of fuel tank?
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So this morning I was in rush hour traffic, stopped at a traffic light when all of a sudden, I get the bong that signals "refuel" I have just under 1/2 tank, though. Glanced down at the fuel gauge to see it drop down to E and then a few moments later back up to just under 1/2. All the will car was running and seemed fine otherwise. The refuel sign stayed on though ...... even when switched off (while MFD was still on) Restarted the car and refuel message was no longer displayed. What could this be? fuel pump on the way out?
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I have an 01 prius which recently had 4 codes come up.
P3000 and a few other misfire codes
P3125
P3120?
The car feels like the e brake is on and now does not go into reverse, feels like its stuck in neutral to.
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My 2005 Prius just killed on me while driving, couldn't put car in neutral, had to get towed. Where the gears supposed to be it just shows blocks. Radio works but that's it. Went test 12 v auxiliary battery and it tested fine. When I place smart key in slot radio won't come on nor flashing lights on dash but if I hold key in my hand dash lights flash and I can power radio.
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