Prius (Gen 2) Fuel :: ICE Takes Too Much Time To Go Down To 0 RPM
May 27, 2010
Often times, after the ICE has fully warmed up, there is not enough stopped time at a red light for the ICE to go down to 0 RPM and enter stage 4. Would switching to "R" force the ICE to stop sooner and thus enter stage 4 sooner?
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My A/C hasn't been seeming too cold lately. It works, it just takes a lot longer than I remember it last summer to get cool. I checked my low-side port using a "EZ chill" gauge I just bought. Doors open, AC max cold, hi, recirculating and it was about 35 PSI - which I think is supposed to be about right.
But I've seen it's dependent on ambient temperature . It was 90 degrees outside. According to the "EZ chill" gauge, it suggests 45-55, which seems way to high to me.
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I've never had a CVT before and am wondering if this is normal...
I have to back out of my driveway at my house. After I back out, I stop, put the car in drive. If I let go of the brake the car starts to move but slow at first then it kicks in like it was halfway in drive and completing the "shift" (I realize CVTs don't 'shift' but I can't think of a better way to put it). It feels like it's taking a few seconds to go fully into Drive when first shifted into it.
The car has 53,500 miles on it and had the 50,000 miles transmission fluid change. Is this behavior normal?
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I have a 2010, the EV mode ( as you know) takes a certain amount of time before it kicks in, depending on the weather. I do a lot of very short(3 mi) trips.
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Why when I am in hot weather it takes a long time for the a/c to start cooling off the car...
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I wonder why the AC takes time to start heating on cold mornings. Actually. It gives warm air after about 5_10 minutes of driving. Is that OK?
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It seems like it takes an awfully long time for the good mileage to get going from a cold start - even when it's warm outside. The last 5 miles of my commute are great, but the first 10 miles not so much. How much effect does ambient air temperature have on this process.
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Every time I turn the car on, the "from start" fuel economy reading resets to 15l/100k. After driving for a while it goes down to 4l/100k but then resets back to 15 once the car is turned off. Is there any way to get it to stay at what it finished at?
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No codes, no obvious troubles other than, when I use the power window control on my 99 passat to control the driver side rear window, I have to hold the button down sometimes for 1 second, sometimes for 15 seconds before it actually moves. If I try to operate the window from the actual button on that door( the rear door), it works fine with no hesitation or sticking. No, the safety lock is not on. I am guessing it is something electronic but as there are no burnt fuses or damaged wires, I am left confused.
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We've just had our first few autumn days where a heavy dew settles on the car when the temperature drops in the evenings. When I left the restaurant last night, the moisture was so thick on the outside of the glass I couldn't see out the rear window. I turned on the rear defogger and it was soooo slow. It took five minutes before you could start to see the wire lines in the glass appear and 20 minutes to clear. None of my other Lexus' have been this slow to clear the rear window.
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Now that the summer has finally arrived the southern Finland I found a problem with my climate control. When the car gets hot from the sun and the climate control starts cooling it takes up to 2 minutes until I get cold air from the vents. It doesn't matter if I let it run on the AUTO-mode or that I turn the temperature all the way to the LOwest position with full "thrust".
I checked the service history of my car and the AC has been serviced and filled last summer. (the basic fast service method). I didn't want to service it again since I'm afraid that all that money would have gone to waste. I haven't found any leaks tho. The radiator is pretty beaten up from all the debris and road salt tho.
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When I start my truck after it has been sitting for a while... I.E. Everything is cold. It takes about 2-3 seconds for the alternator to start putting out voltage (the lights are dim, and the voltmeter on the dash registers about 11 volts). My question is: Am I running on borrowed time and should I change out the alternator, or is there another underlying problem I should be looking for? OR... is this normal; I've never seen this before.
2002 s10 p/u 4cyl stick shift ..
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My embattled 92 civic hatchback has developed an issue that makes it take forever to start. I put the key in the ignition, turn it to the start position, and then I have to wait for up to 10 to 15 minutes to hear the click-hum of the fuel pump priming (which turns off the check engine light) before I can start it. I've noticed that it's much worse on wet days, but generally starts right up if it's only been off for a few moments. I used to just give the Civic ample warning before I need to go somewhere by running out, turning the key to start, and then letting it sit there, but this is beginning to wear down the battery. I've replaced the main relay to no avail, and once the car is running it does just fine, which makes me think that the fuel pump is fine.
Full disclosure: this thing also has a bad oil problem. A diesel mechanic changed the head gasket several months ago (owing to yet another starting problem, and I'm starting to think it was the same starting problem, and that I blew the head gasket from trying to push-start the thing), and in our efforts, we seem to have messed up the valve cover gasket. There is oil in the plug wells, and there's some power loss as the engine is trying to cough up the oil. I haven't replaced it yet because it doesn't seem to be a critical issue as long as I keep feeding it more oil.
I've done some searching on the web, and the general consensus of the internet (and the internet HAS to be right, right?) is a bad ECU. When I look this up in my manual, getting to the ECU is just a matter of pulling the carpet in the passenger-side floorboard out of the way. Okay, great. Only problem: I can't find a place where I can buy a good ECU. I could probably find one at a junkyard, but there's no guarantee there. If I do manage to find one, I want to be able to return it if replacing it doesn't fix anything.
Fuel pump - checked before we changed the head gasket, came back okay
Starter - I changed it by myself before we changed the head gasket
Ignition Switch - The key is optional, but everything else electronic in the car responds properly when the switch is in the proper position.
Distributor/Rotor cap - Changed when we changed the head gasket
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I have a 2008 VW Jetta 2.5s. In winter i have noticed that my car takes too much time to heat up when the AC is turned ON. Generally, if i drive for 5 minutes and the temperature of the engine comes to the center ( in the temperature dial on the dash board), the hot air starts coming out. Is this normal. I haven't noticed this in other cars. Do i need to check anything?I do have the coolant liquid full.
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It seems to me that the RCF is very poor at downshifting. I have owned the car for around 4 months now. If I am cruising along at around 30 to 40 mph and really push the pedal to the floor it honest to God sometimes seems to take a full 2 seconds to respond. It pauses, then downshifts and picks up a little speed, and then it finally goes. It drives me crazy! If I am already in a lower gear and punch it, it goes immediately.
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I have the jbl stereo and when I start the car it literally takes 2 solid minutes or so to connect sometimes i have to turn the radio off and then back on to get it to connect always has done it. Tried with other phones also i use a iphone 6.
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So lately I've been noticing that it takes a really long time for my water temp bars (on the dash) to go down to 0. At first I noticed this during the same time I discovered I had coolant leaking from the valley plate. I took the car in and had that sealed + fresh coolant added, but I'm still noticing that it's takes a really long time for the coolant to cool down, and I'm talking about leaving the car untouched for 3 or 4 hours, and the bar is still half way at operating temps, meanwhile the oil bar is completely at 0.
It hasn't been hot at all in SoCal lately, so I don't think this is attributable to weather. I checked the surrounding of the radiator and there doesn't seem to be a buildup of gunk that decreased air flow. During normal drives on city and highway, the temps are completely fine and don't seem to exceed the normal operating temp.
At this point I'm wondering if there's an issue with other supporting components like the temp. sensor, radiator ran, maybe the water pump?
Other relevant info: MY2011, 67k on the odometer.
Recent leak at valley plate, was resealed and fresh coolant added
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As of yesterday evening my 2002 Chevrolet Suburban 1500, shuts off while im driving. Takes about two to five minutes to get it going again (has shut off a couple times) Starts up fine idles great, problems start about a mile or two of being driven.
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I'm bench testing my starter and wanted to make sure that it's working as it should before I install it. The plunger comes out and the gear spins as expected, but it takes a second for the gear to pop back in after I disconnect it. I'm worried that it might get stuck on the flywheel if the return spring isn't working as it should.
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From stop. When I accelerate it takes a long time to get to drive. It feels like a lag time. What is wrong with my car?
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I love my 2011 Forester except for one thing. (you all knew this was coming) it seems to take forever to warm up! My Forester has a blue light on the dash (Coolant temperature Light) It turns red if the temperature is too high and it is blue when the car is started and then goes out when the car is warmed up. To me, this seems to take too long. My Forester has 50,000 miles on it. The other day I timed how long it took to warm up. The forester sat at work for 8 hours. When I started it up to go home, (it was 42 degrees), it took almost 4 minutes for the blue light to go off indicating the car was properly warmed up. All my coworkers were long gone. I bought the car new and I intend to drive it for many years so I have been waiting for the blue light to go off. I get a hard time from friends and family telling me to get going...I don't think it takes this long for other cars to warm up.
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