Prius (Gen 2) :: Faulty Battery Temp Sensor - Code POA9B
Oct 31, 2014
My first Prius, an 05 has 249K and performs pretty much flawlessly. My second, an 04 which I purchased in May, has 75K. While driving the 04 yesterday, all the lights came on the dash and really scared me. I immediately pulled off the road and checked belt, fluids and anything else I could. I then called the dealer and they thought since the car was running normal, to bring it in. For a hundred dollars I was told the HV battery, though working and not a problem, would have to be replaced due to a faulty "battery temp sensor" and that this part is not repairable....I need a new battery! Code POA9B ... Tomorrow I am taking the rear panel out and check the HV battery fan, etc. Can I drive the car with these lights on? Everything seems to work but the CC.
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Plugged in my ScanGaugeII on a whim, it's usually on my 6.5 Suburban daily drivers, but was curious to monitor a few things on the 7.3
Noticed this right away, coolant temp reading a solid -40*F and never budging.
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My 2003 Santa Fe 3.5 is in limp mode, you can't change the gears and showing signs of faulty tps sensor, but my mechanic is telling me to change whole electronic throttle system , May be its only the sensor.
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2012 Hyundai Accent. I am getting a po326 code. Wondering if it may be a faulty knock sensor. And po463 fuel level sensor code when I fill up with gas.
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My mother in laws 2012 Santa Fe had a number of dash lights on (ABS, hill decent, stability control). I put my scanner on it and came up with fault code C1209 which showed up as a faulty right rear wheel speed sensor. I have replaced this module and then cleared the codes.
However, the dash lights still light up and the vehicle continues to throw the same code. I don't work on Hyundai's very often so I am at a bit of a loss.
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I have a 2006 VW Jetta with 92K miles and just a couple of days ago my check engine late came on and when i took to an auto store to check the code, it came as P0332, Knock sensor 2 in bank 2 is faulty. Three things have happened all around the same time and I am not sure if they are related and are just coincidence.1.Check engine light came on.2. I have noticed after that, my car RPM has dropped, idles at about 600-700RPM and when trying to accelerate, it tops at 3000 RPM and feels like the motor cuts off at that point and I have to step off the gas and the car runs ok again, but cant go over 3000.
Had trouble getting on the interstate due to this and thought the car was going to stall, but it didn't. just had to back off the gas and let it run, It did go up to the speed that I wanted, but seems like it wont go past the 3000 RPM point.3. My fuel gauge, drops to empty when it reaches the half way mark on the meter. It stays at the correct level when I start and keep the car in idle, but when I start moving, it drops to empty. When I fill up the tank, it goes all the way to F, and after the car goes the usually of about 190-210 miles, when It reaches the half full level, the meter drops to zero, so have been using my trip odometer to drive after that.
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So I had a post up saying "is MIL P1444 a urgent fix" and I got "no". On an other website though it said that it was an urgent fix. They said it was "similar to running a bad catalytic converter. You don't want to do it."
P1444:
Possible causes
- Faulty Purge Flow Sensor
- Purge Flow Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Purge Flow Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
So I located the purge flow sensor and look at the tube that connects to that,the canp solenoid, and the carbon canister. Nothing looks bad, but I did notice that the tube that connects to the carbon canister to the solenoid is not connected. The part that connects to the carbon canister dry rotted off. So I turned on my car to see if anything was coming out of that tube or air and there was nothing (not sure if that's good or bad). Also a week ago when I filled up my gas tank (before the check engine light was on) a lot of fumes were coming out of the tank while pumping.
The scanner i use also lists the secondary air system, the EVAP system, Heated catalyst, and the AC refrigenant has red X's, but they weren't continuous.
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I'm getting error P0125 on my 2001 Echo, which points to possibly a faulty ECT sensor.
Where is this sensor located? Seems like under the air box? Is replacing this part as annoying as it looks? And, are there any other possible causes for code P0125?
In case it's related, I will mention that code P0171 (mixture too lean, I believe) is present as well, and the car does hesitate upon initial acceleration when standing still. Once it's moving, it works fine.
Maybe it's time to start thinking about replacing this car... it has 216,000 miles...
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We took our 2008 Prius in for a check engine light. The dealership said oxygen sensor was faulty. Changed that and had them change the serpentine belt while there due to cracks in the belt. My wife filled up the car the next day ( it took 13 gallons) but gas gauge was not registering a full tank. We drove 67 miles and I decided to pull into a gas station and see how much it would take since the gas gauge was not working properly. It took over 7 gallons.
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Man, do I long for the days of carburated engines and distributor caps. Problems were obvious and so were the fixes. About 2 months ago, my engine light came on. There were no symptoms of any problems. Plugged in VAG COM and got the codes. They pointed to a possible faulty temp sensor and a possible bad O2 sensor. I grabbed my multimeter and tested both. They checked out withing specs. I read about a problem with the OEM temp sensor and replaced it for $4.50. A new O2 sensor is about $125. I didn't feel like wasting $125 on a perfectly good O2 sensor. So I waited until I could afford to take it to VW to let it be their problem at $90/hour.
Last week, the car was hard-starting from what seemed to be a low battery. All the voltages tested fine, so I called a friend with a load tester to test it on the weekend. Before the weekend came, I had to get jumped once and pop-start a couple other times. I needed a new battery. After all, it was the original, oem battery.
48 battery for my 2001.5 Passat. This battery does not fit. It needs a group 91. This was a pain in the a&$ to locate and one expensive battery at $119 before tax and core charge.
The silver lining, however, is that replacing the battery seems to have made my engine problems disappear. I have dome the requisite amount of driving to reproduce an engine light, but it has not re-appeared. VAG COM reported that everything is A-OK. I would never have guessed to replace the battery to fix the codes I was getting.
Anyway, take note, I am not sure what lesson I leared here, if any, but it's worth having this knowledge if you ever run into this elusive problem.
BTW, I also undestand that you can fix a faulty headlight by kicking your Passat in the tailpipe.
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My Bank 2 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor is faulty and I need to replace it. The guys at the parts store were pretty certain it is downstream driver's side, but I just want to make sure before I PB Blasted and removed it. 2008 F250 SD v10 ....
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Long story short, I had run down the HV battery in my 2001 Prius. It turned out to be a faulty wire to the ignition system of the ICE. While diagnosing, I let the HV battery drain, at least I think I did (Please see image of my HV battery specs). My question is, How can I charge the HV battery? I read Öut of Juice" but do not have the charger. My question is can I make one?
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I was driving today when the CEL came on, I scanned the car which gave me 1 code: P1296.
I googled it and said it is possibly the coolant temp sensor?
The Engine temp was normal at 190' or just below even after quite a bit of driving today.
Would the problem just be the sensor or should I be looking for other problems as well?
The car is a 2002 B5.5 AWM 1.8T Tiptronic.
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So my check engine light came on in my 04 jetta sw, and when I had the car read, it gave me a code that tracked down to be a bad coolant temp sensor. I bought the replacement part from my local VW dealership, installed it and the check engine light went away. Now about 2 weeks late it came back on, and I am getting a reading of "Coolant temp sensor high voltage". So it goes from needing replaced, then the replacement is running high voltage?
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Threw a coolant temp sensor code yesterday morning:
16502 - Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (G62): Signal too high
p0118 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent - MIL ON
Does throwing that code once mean I need to replace the CTS immediately or am I safe to clear the code and see if it returns? No code today after a 40 minute drive.
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My engine light came on the other day and the code given was P0711, which is the transmission temperature sensor. I went to the dealer and bought one so I can quickly replace it. My question is, where is that sensor located? My haynes book doesn't even mention it. I called the dealer and was put on eternal hold.
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P3081. What the hell is this code. I think it is a coolant temp. sensor issue.
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What this error code is? I've been told its a faulty transaxle! what actions to take!
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I have a 2011 Sonata with 30000 miles. It started shifting funny. It would jump when you put it in drive and shift strangely in all gears. Called the dealer to make an appointment, cancelled as I couldn't get off work. In the meantime, car stopped doing this.
After a while, this started again. Stopped by a shop that offered free code check, the code is P0711 Transmission Fluid Temp Sensor. They said your fluid is overheating and we don't know why, we have to take the transmission off to find out the cause.
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My 2003 Mk 4 Golf have had a lot of error codes and I have cleared most (O2 sensors, thermostat, and Mass Air Sensor) I now have an error P0113 which is the Intake Air temp Sensor.
So I need to clean the sensor first then maybe replace it, but I can't find the sensor on the intake manifold.
I have looked all through the U-Tube info, but nothing matches my 2003 Golf 2.0L ...
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2001 jetta 2.0 VW guys a while back I was pulling a code saying that the air temp sensor circuit was low I believe it was P0112 so I replaced the maf with a bwd maf. Said it was for the car. Was fine for a day but now it has a P0102 code and the epc stays on (rough idle) what could be wrong ? Is it because the car hasn't learned the new sensor yet because I've only drove 10km or do I have a faulty sensor. BTW replacing the maf fixed the P0112 code
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