Prius (Gen 2) :: FOB Only Unlocking Door / No Locking
Jun 30, 2014
My FOB is only unlocking my door. It's not locking doors. Thought it might be the FOB battery. I changed it and still no locking, just unlocking.
View 9 RepliesMy FOB is only unlocking my door. It's not locking doors. Thought it might be the FOB battery. I changed it and still no locking, just unlocking.
View 9 RepliesI got the car running again, so no need to go into details on that (I used the physical key on the keyfob, you really do have to turn it further than you'd think, but that got me into the car, after several tries was able to get it to stop cycling through the locking/unlocking and was able to jump it).
Got the 12v battery in my Prius replaced by the dealership in the last 2 years. Last winter, one day my Prius refused to start even though it had been running fine earlier that day and was parked in a semi-heated garage. Jumped it and got it working.
Last Friday I went to get out of my car and my Prius kept beeping at my any time I had the door open, and the clock on the dash seemed to be a little dim. I doubled checked that the keyfob was in my pocket (and not in the holder thingy), eventually the car seemed to lock fine and I went up to my apartment. Didn't drive the car until this morning.
This morning I come down to find that keyless entry does not work, nor does pressing the unlock button on the keyfob. (The car is parked in heated underground parking fyi.) About every 1 second on repeat, the car is making this sound like it makes when you hit the lock/unlock button from the inside of the car, so it seemed like it was stuck in an endless loop of locking or unlocking. I go back upstairs, leave my key fob in my apartment (which is around 300 meters away or so), come back down - it's still on the loop making that sound.
I get into the car with the physical door key, try starting it - the lights will come on but the car doesn't seem to actually start. And the endless lock/unlock loop starts up against once I turn the car "off". I got upstairs and switch to my other backup keyfob. Come back down. Car is still in the endless loop. Try to start it again, car still doesn't seem to start, but this time when I turn it "off" the endless lock/unlock cycle finally stops. Do finally get it running by jumping the battery, then it seems to run fine.
So I bring it to the dealer, and the guy their rather vehemently insist there must be something wrong with my keyfob. First he immediately confidently assures me that I just need to replace the battery in the keyfob, which makes no sense. Then he changes to saying he thinks the lock button on the keyfob was stuck down, which doesn't make sense either as like I said it continued doing it even when I removed any keyfob from being anywhere near the car.
I have a 2005 GLI which seems to have an issue with intermittent door locks. Sometimes when I press the unlock/lock button they will unlock/lock, other times they won't. It also seems to be random as to which doors will unlock/lock. Opening them from inside works just fine.
The dealer said that the door lock control modules probably need to be replaced. I remember seeing a while back that there was a way to fix these as the problem really was some solder within the control module.
I'm slowly reading through the ES-350 manual, picking and choosing parts to read. There are several 'Personalized Preferences' that I've noted down and will have addressed at my 1st month service.
I noticed on pg. 21 of the manual that there are settings to set and cancel the door-locking/unlocking functions. These functions are also mentioned in the 'Personalized Preferences' section, so there is overlap here (on paper anyways).
Anyways I tried a couple of times to follow the instructions on pg. 21 to disable the door locking and unlocking when the car is placed in Park and Neutral.
It didn't work for me. The instructions aren't all that clear to me, nor of what they are supposed to accomplish. I'd like to not have the doors lock when I place the shift out of Park and not have the doors unlock when I place the shift into Park.
My drivers door won't unlock and lock sometimes. It goes off and on. And it's starting to do it more often. Sometimes the beep won't make a sound too when I lock it. Only locks with manually putting the key in. I've tried to use my other key but it didn't work.
View 6 RepliesRenee said her barn door lock stopped locking and unlocking with the key, so I checked the connecting rod from the cylinder to the actuator and found it had broke off the cylinder. I also found a small metal clip of some sort laying loose in the area beneath the actuator.
I checked the 'net and couldn't find any good, close up pics of each end of the rod to see how it's attached. I did find a YouTube vid of the actuator area, but when the goombah in the vid started talking, I thought to myself, that voice sounds familiar! So I scrolled down the page and what do I see? Apocs pic and name, showing it was uploaded by Jon, LOL.
Anyway, can someone remove that back plastic panel on the rear hatch and take a few pictures of the connecting rod and how it connects to the actuator? I know I have to replace the plastic/metal tab that connects the rod to the cylinder, but that opposite end, the actuator end, has me a bit perplexed.
Well, it seems like it. Bought new, now has under 20k miles. Car starts and runs great to a destination. Stop, shop, start up and drive off. Then, while in traffic, the door locks (4) start locking and unlocking rapidly on their own, then the car will bog down and is unresponsive to the gas pedal. Seconds later, the engine will rev to high rmps momentarily and then lurch forward to a normal speed and it will seem fine for 10 or 20 seconds. Then it repeats the process. It has happened 3 times in the past year. Wife is terrified to drive the car. All three times we took it immediately to the dealer. The second time, it happened there, as they were taking out back. As of this date, the dealer is unable to identify the problem...no codes. It was in for recall in 2014 for the BCM connection repair. It has gotten a new battery 2 yrs ago, and a new key. It has always been dealer serviced. Since it happens in traffic, and my wife is driving we do not know what dash lights indicators pop up, she is trying to keep safe. It's now been in the dealer, this time, for 5 days, nothing!
View 4 RepliesMy driver door on my 06 F150 crew cab stopped locking/unlocking recently. I purchased a new actuator and installed and it worked great. About a week later it stopped working again. But then in order to unlock the door from outside you had to turn key and pull on handle while the key was still turned. I was about to break open door again when it made a strange electronic type sound when I was leaving for work (when auto lock activated). After that it started working again - for 3-4 days. Now it stopped working again. I can open door fine from inside but lock won't stay unlocked. As soon as I release handle it locks again.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 ford windstar LX. When i drive it, the door chime sensor comes on and off randomly and door starts locking unlocking. Happens more often when the road is bumpy or when i brake hard.
Per the local dealer I changed all four door actuators (the front one had stopped working) . All four door actuators are brand new and working but the issue still exists.
What should be my next steps in troubleshooting? Is there a way to simply disconnect these door chime sensor?
My mom has a 2001 f150 with a 5.0. Had never had any problems with it till this week. She says it wont click or anything. When she tries to start it, the power door locks go to locking & unlocking. She said the battery is good. I figured probably the starter. She lives about 2 1/2 hours from me. I figured I would go down there and take the starter off and have it checked or rebuilt. Anybody ever had their power locks to go to moving when you try to start the truck. Also, when she turns the key on, her dash lights come on just like normal. Just won't turn over or click or anything.
View 3 RepliesI'm having a problem with my remote lock/alarm system in my 2010 Corolla LE. The driver door suddenly stopped locking and unlocking with the remote. The other 3 doors work fine, but the driver door won't work. When I lock the driver door with the key and press the lock button, everything locks and unlocks like normal. If I wait awhile and try to unlock the doors again, the driver door lock again won't work.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 with 210,000 miles. I have noticed recently that my fob is not locking / unlocking my car unless I'm almost right on top of it, even with a clear sight of the car. Didn't use to be that way. I changed the battery and not much improvement.
View 2 RepliesOn several occasions, with SKS fob in pocket, I have parked, turned off the car, opened the door, locked the doors with the interior door lock button (on the panel, not the physical door lock), exited the vehicle and closed the door, and then right about the time I make it to the rear of the car on my way to whatever store I'm going to, I hear the unlock "beep" and all the doors unlock.
Sometimes I'm more than a few steps away from the car. And sometimes I don't catch it, and come back to the car and find it's been unlocked all the time. It's like the SKS realizes I'm sitting in the car when I lock the doors, and maybe I'm too quick and it still thinks the fob is in the car when the door closes, so it unlocks the doors. But it's not the long "the-wife-stuck-her-purse-back-in-the-car-with-the-fob-again-even-though-she-knows-it-can't-lock" beep either, although maybe it's because it will let me lock the doors with a fob inside if a door is still open.
I noticed that my key fob has stopped working for remote locking/unlocking. This was not fixed with a brand new battery, and I just noticed that the depressed "unlock" button seems go have lost its subtle click, so there may be a mechanical failure inside there.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2010 Prius IV and set the doors to all unlock when I touched the driver's door handle. Annoyingly, now when I touch the raised spot on the handle (either driver or passenger side) to lock all the doors the car does the beep but also briefly toots the horn. The horn also toots when I touch the handle to unlock.
My old 2005 Prius VI just did the beeping (which my neighbors and I can live with) but the addition of a honking horn, however brief, is pretty annoying. I can't seem to find a place to disable this unwanted feature...
Having issues with the rear tailgate door unlocking. Seems like mine on occasion is only making a noise but not unlocking completely and showing the door ajar light with the beep. When it happens, its a pain to get it to stop and close completely, or even open. I have to push hard on the door to get it to stop.
View 2 RepliesI have a new to me 2010 Prius. What I'm trying to do (I did it with my 2008 Prius) is to be able to unlock any door from the outside as long as I have my fob in my pocket. I've tried following the directions in the manual but to no avail. I've tried holding lock and unlock on the fob simultaneously for 5 seconds, all doors open shows up on the control panel, but when I approach any door except the drivers door, nothing happens.
View 19 RepliesThe fob of my 2006 prius stopped unlocking the driver's door, it does unlock, however, all other doors. Also when locking the car all doors lock no problem, so the weird thing is the "unlocking of the driver door" that doesn't work unless I use the little key inside the fob. I already changed the battery in the fob and it is still doing the same thing.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2012 XLE that I bought brand new in 2012 and twice this week I had locking/unlocking problems.
The first one was mid-week. I pressed the unlock button on the fob and the car beeped multiple times instead of a standard 2 beeps. I heard the locks unlock but could not open the driver's door. It felt as if the lock was stuck. I even tried the mechanical key that's hidden inside the fob and the same result. I then opened the passenger door and got in and moved the lock back and forth a few times and then everything worked fine.
Earlier this morning, I had the opposite problem. I could not lock the car using the fob. Had to do it manually like back in the day.
Can the battery or contacts in the fob be slowly going out? Should I start using my other fob? Should I have the dealership look into it?
So I'm gunna change my horn. I know where it's located, but what I was wondering was is there a way to make the car beep when locking and unlocking? While still having a horn. Is there a special kind of horn that makes it beep during those situations and then actually honks when u hit the steering wheel?
View 7 Replies00 Golf GTI MkIV 1.8T
key fob worked when i first got car a few months ago, previous owner wanted strereo so changed stereo now key fob doesnt work,
Tried so far: removed Car battery for 10 mins Checked all relevant Fuses Used VAG - Com to check Qty of Keys programmed = correct Used VAC COM to re-sync key. Car signlaed a beep to show correct programming Used VAG com to inspect convenience model, No faults found. Used VAG com to measure sensor, this displays a 1 or 0 dependant on which button is pushed,
Notes Central Locking works from Key in door and via internal push button. Dead locking works if u use key in door twice - alarm arms if Car is dead locked and unlocked with Key in door, the Alarm sounds, I have to put key in ignition and quarter turn to disarm. So in summary It would apear Central locking works as does the key as does the sensor. What else can i try?