Prius (Gen 2) :: FOB Don't Give Reaction When Lies In Pocket
Jan 26, 2014
I just bought a 2006 Prius with one FOB. How do I know if my 2006 Prius is SKS?The fob unlocks the doors by pushing the button. There is no reaction to the FOB being in my pocket in trying to start the car. Is my FOB non-SKS but my Prius is?
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If I have my key fob and cellphone in the same pocket I can open up the car with no issue by walking up to the vehicle, but when I try to start the vehicle the digital dash says " No Key Detected ". When I separate the key fob from the cell phone then the car can detect the key fob. (if I remove the fob out of my pocket and leave the phone or if I remove the phone and leave the fob it will detect the key and I'm able to start the vehicle).
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I have a new to me 2010 Prius. What I'm trying to do (I did it with my 2008 Prius) is to be able to unlock any door from the outside as long as I have my fob in my pocket. I've tried following the directions in the manual but to no avail. I've tried holding lock and unlock on the fob simultaneously for 5 seconds, all doors open shows up on the control panel, but when I approach any door except the drivers door, nothing happens.
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I've got a 2004 Prius and I recently had some body repair done which included having the cloth interior upgraded to leather.
When I picked up my Prius from the shop, the key fob wouldn't work when it was in my pocket. I had to push the unlock key to open the door. Then when I tried to start the car w/ the key in my pocket, it wouldn't start so I had to put the key into the dash to get the car started.
Once I got home, I figured the battery was dead so I replaced it and tried again and got the same results. Then I went around the car testing the passenger door and truck and it's the same thing, it won't unlock w/out pushing the button on the key fob.
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I just bought a new 2006 prius and have an issue with the FOB (it's pretty beat up from use -- ordered a new housing for it)...
It works great for locking and unlocking the car with the key in pocket, but as soon as I sit down to turn on the car, I get the beep and key icon flashing on the dash and no activity.
Only when I insert the key into the slot will the car turn on. The Key disable button under the steering wheel is not engaged.
Again, it recognizes for locking button and unlocking when I touch the handle, but I have to physically plug it in for the car to start....
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I have an 03 Nissan Sentra 1.8 with 200k miles. A year ago I started having an issue with the accelerator. When I drive the car the accelerator stops working. It idles perfectly, but when I step on the gas, I get almost no reaction. It does increase RPM about 200, but that is all. When I first start the car, the accelerator works for the first five to eight seconds, which leads me to think it is some kind of sensor. There is no check engine light.
I've tried replacing the throttle body (which includes the throttle position sensor), mass airflow sensor, and the fuel pump. I had it on to the dealership and they reprogrammed the computer, but the issue persists. Last bit of information I can think of is that the problem used to disappear when the car sat for a few days. So I had been driving it only once or twice a week. Unfortunately, the problem is now constant.
Many people talked about the throttle position sensor, which I replaced, but to no avail.
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I have no voice guidance on my nav. I am able to see where i'm going and if i'm looking at the map I can see when I have to turn but I have no voice guidance.
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I just got a new 2015 Prius C Three and have been reading up as much as possible. I wanted to know if using cruise control would give me better MPG. If it's just a matter of 3/4 mpg difference, then I would use the cruise control to rest my feet. But if its a big difference, then I would avoid cruise control.
My daily commute from Germantown, MD to Alexandria Va and back is about 40 miles each way: total 80 miles. 90% of that highway on I-270 and I-495. I leave after morning rush hour and again drive back after evening rush hour.
Last couple of trips without cruise I have been getting around 50~52mpg.
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My fiance drives a 2006 Escapse XLT v6 AWD. It's really a great car.
She noticed an issue when she filled the fuel tank the last time. It took about 8 miles of driving for the gauge to read full after being filled from empty. She also told me there was a "whirring" noise when shutting off the car and turning it back on. I checked it out and found the fuel gauge is making a noise. Whenever you shut it off or turn it on and the needle moves there is a distinct whirring noise that sounds like dirty plastic gears meshing, which is what I'm assuming is the issue.
I've done a search and came up with 0 results. Can the cluster be disassembled and possibly just clean the gears?
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BMW's have a special way to bleed the system, does the VW passat have on too? Seems like I can't get the air pocket out and heat is barely coming in. I just put a radiator in and all the coolant obviously is gone, so I put new coolant in and the cars been idling for about 30 with the cap off letting air out and heat is barely coming in, am i missing something? Engine temp is NORMAL, in the middle, so NO overheating issues.
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Do all sc have the coin pocket that opens up.I tried sliding mine back but it doesn't open.Is there a trick to opening these up or are some not made to open. what am I doing wrong?
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I have a 08 corvette that allows you to walk away from the car with the fob in your pocket and the car locks without having to touch anything once the fob is a certain many feet away from the car. I like that option and I cannot figure out how to do it on my wife's 2013 RX ( or even if it will work that way)
I don't drive her car that much but it seems inconvenient to have to remember to touch the little depression area on the outside driver handle to lock the car. I know, I could just get used to it , but just walking away without having to do something seems more simple and should be an option in a car of this cost and technology.
Is it possible to program the car to lock all doors when I walk away with the fob and not having to touch anything on the car?
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Assuming the car is locked and the option has been selected, are the driving lights, interior lights, and puddle lights supposed to come on automatically if you approach the car with key in pocket or must you first use fob to unlock the car?
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Does the prius v TMPS shows you the pressure in each tire or just give you a warning when one of the tire is low. How many MPG do we gain if we over inflate the tire to the max possible.
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Have trouble with the drivers side not seating in the bumper pocket? Mine pops out on one corner weekly. I'm not sure if it would come out completely.
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My 98 Corolla won't start, but I have checked battery, fuel pressure, spark, efi relay, and fuses, which are all good. Can't figure what to fix?
Have connected a pocket scanner but I get no codes.
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I've been having trouble with the cooling system of my 2005 Kia Sedona (about 90,000 miles) and a couple months back I had the system flushed, coolant added and thermostat replace. Not long after this the overheating started up again. After the first five minutes of driving, the thermostat starts creeping up above the half way mark and within about ten minutes it hits the H. My vents also don't blow heat. After ten minutes the heat SOMETIMES suddenly kicks in after the needle hits H, but it's kind of inconsistent and sometimes I get no heat even after hitting H and sometimes I get a little heat and then it goes away. I only drive it 15 minutes each way so am not sure what would happen if I kept driving.
Anyway, I took it back to the shop and they did a pressure test and said they thought it was a leaky head gasket and that they couldn't do the repair and I should take it to a Kia dealer. I picked it up and on my way home I noticed I was getting heat from the vents immediately and the thermostat stayed at the halfway mark. No overheating. Is it possible they are wrong and the pressure test knocked some air out of the system and that the test actually fixed the problem? Can a pressure test give a false result?
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Everything was fine with my 2000 F-150 until a few weeks ago when I went to open the driver's side pocket door and it would not open. Felt like the latch was releasing but would not open. I went around to the passenger's side pocket door to open it: SAME PROBLEM! This makes no sense; these two doors had worked fine, they operate independently, and I have confirmed with Ford dealers that there is no safety lock feature that may have been activated. Of course, the only remaining options appear to me either my tearing the doors apart, or worse yet paying someone else for the privilege.
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I own a 2001 Volvo S40. At first I had a problem getting it to stay running on the first start. Before when I started the car it would stall the first or second time. Then I would give it a little gas, let off and it would bog down under 750 rpms then jump up to 750 and run fine. The car would start great afterwards as long as I started it within a few hours. If I let it sit overnight I would run into the same problem as mentioned before. That was then and this is now. The last time the car ran I noticed the car would not fully warm up. It was like 30 degrees outside and the fans only blew cold air. The temp gauge stayed on the cold side the whole ride home (roughly 35 miles).
The next day it was still about 30 degrees outside and when I went to start the car the car it stalled. I tried to start it again and gave it some gas but when I let off the gas pedal the car shut off. I tried again with the same results. The next time I keep my foot on the gas for a good minute. The car would rev up no problem but once I let off the gas the car would stall. I figured it was the cold weather. So the next it was beautiful (close to 60). I tried to start it again with the same results as the previous day. That was a few days ago. Since then, I've tried a few times but to no avail.
I bought the car with 108,000 miles on it from a dealer. Since then I've put about 17,000 miles on it and haven't done any maintenance to it. Absolutely none. No oil change, plugs, air filter, etc. I wanted to keep it to myself but am trying to be completely honest to ensure proper troubleshooting. I did check the oil level and it was ok. Also, I have about half a tank of gas in the tank. I believe it could be numerous issues.
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I have a 2004 GLI, with 105,000 miles
I have a problem, I think it's a leak in the turbo, when I drive at 45 or 50 mile four-speed when I give some gas to the bottom to take power, I feel that the car starts to shake and feels like coughed at the same time and the Check Engine starts to blinking.
I change the timing belt, valves, and ignition coils.
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So far its only happened twice in the past to days, and its only happened in 1st gear. when i give it gas to go in 1st gear the EPC light will come on and it sounds like a miss fire or something. then the car basically shuts down.
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