Prius (Gen 2) :: Engine Tends To Shudder A Whole Lot When Starting
Feb 3, 2016
My engine tends to shudder a whole lot when starting (sometimes) I also hear an audible clunk or Thunk sometimes when the normal engine simply starts as well as when accelerating, Decelerating, braking, and accelerating on reverse. I know you may think, axles, but I recently replaced them twice because the first pair made my ABS turn on so I'm returning those (bad brand called "EMPI"), and these second ones seem to be working great (aftermarket SurTrak, the dealer has the original ones for about $600 each WAY too expensive) but I started noticing the clunk after 2 days.
Notice: it is one single clunk not a clack clack clack when turning, no. It is only heard when accelerating, decelerating, braking, and accelerating on reverse; one single clunk. I've been searching a lot and narrowed down the possibilities to motor/Trans. Mounts. Notice: I've recently changed struts, springs, stabilizer bar, wheel bearings hubs, as well as the front axle shafts.
I have a 2004 with 175,200 miles on it by the way!
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I just picked up my new GTI and drove it 300 miles home. I did notice one potential issue that will need service attention. There is a mild but very noticeable shudder when slowing to a stop (gently slowing to less than 5mph). It is also mildly noticeable when taking off slowly but much less so.
The best description I can come up with is : Shudder that occurs when you slow to a near stop in a manual transmission car without pressing in the clutch? That little shudder that reminds you to put the clutch in before you stall. That is what this feels like. It doesn't shake the whole car but it is very noticeable.
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I am not the original owner of this 1990 E250 cargo van with a 302 in it. I am trying to troubleshoot this shudder I am having. It only happens when I am just starting off from a stop. Every other place the tranny runs and shifts great. I trying to find a starting point and after reading a bunch in a bunch of different places, I am confused as to the tranny I have or even had.
It has in big bold letters METRIC on the bottom of the pan. It also has Automatic Overdrive and Ford on the bottom of the pan also. It is a 14 bolt pan with the two rear corners of the pan chamfered off. I see now it is DEFINITELY the AOD installed and NOT the AODE. The thing is my steering column is labeled 1 D and OD. That is a 3 spd overdrive to me. What the heck is going on? How can I tell what the tranny was that came out of the van?
When I look under the van at the shift linkage, you can definitely tell the linkage is colored red which to me looks like somebody has been down there playing around. Is it possible to put a AOD into this van with the steering column the way it is? Could this be a reason for my early shudder at starting off from a stop? Once I put my foot in it or get moving at a quicker pace, the shudder goes away. Something is not right with the way this tranny is set up. I am not even sure where to start.
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I have a 2010 GTI with 70K miles. At @ 40K the clutch began to exhibit sort of a slight sudder, and squeak when the car was fully warmed up, but only from starting from a stop on a steep uphill incline. The dealer could not duplicate the problem when routine maintainence was performed, At the 70K maintainence, they could duplicate the problem, and have told me that a new clutch from flywheel on is needed. The Diagnosis was $90 and could not have included any mechanical inspection. One of the Techs told me that there is a list of VIN's that VW apparently identified as having potential clutch issues. My thoughts are:
Even though the car is past the 60K powertrain warranty, the problem was brought to the dealers attention at @40K.
If the car is on the list, VW already knew there could be issues.
I feel that under the circumstances VW could be expected to cover 1/2 of the repair, since the car now has 70K.
Other questions if VW has no interest in working with me:
Can the flywheel be resurfaced? What would the approximate cost for labor to replace the clutch by an Independent garage? The car operates as usual, just with the one issue. I would like to have repair done fairly soon.
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I have an '05 F150 5.4L with 110k miles on it. Bought it used about 2-3 years ago and have had on-going ignition system problems. The current problem is a significant shudder/shake/vibration that occurs when driving 50mph+ (easy to reproduce around 65-70) on the freeway, when starting up a minor, but noticeable incline. This is an incline that doesn't require much additional throttle, and this trouble occurs with cruise control on and off. the truck starts shuddering pretty rough during the incline. However, if I release the accelerator (and go up incline with slightly lower speed) or give lots of gas on accelerator the shudder usually stops. The shudder always clears after the incline when returning to flat road and just cruising.
This occurred on a recent trip a few times and I pulled the following codes (in order):
P0356 (once) : Ignition Coil F (6) Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0302 (recurring): misfire on cylinder 2
I have since purchased and replaced the coil on #2. This did not resolve the problem. I have replaced coil on #6 in the last year...
Because I saw a suggestion somewhere on the net around this problem while searching, that this could be related to OD, I tried disabling OD and enabled OD on an incline today to test after replacing COP on #2 and it seemed to resolve the issue to turn OD off. Not sure if related...?
Other observation: Cab of truck often smells of gas just after starting the truck. Mentioned this to the shop, but they didn't find anything obvious.
Short history of codes and work that has been done:
Sometime in early 2011: Ford service dept did this work.
First failure was coil bad on #7. Tech swapped 7 & 8 to verify the problem followed the coil. Then when the problem DID follow the coil, he replaced #8 with new.
05/2011 MacKenzie Ford changed all plugs
12/2011 - swapped out COP on #7.
02/2012 - P0306 - Now, COP #6 is reported as bad.
November/December 2012
P2104 P Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) - Forced Idle
P2112 P TAC Stuck Close
P2111 TAC Stuck Open
I did throttle body clean - removed it and used TB cleaner. replaced...
Late December 2012 - while driving on freeway at speeds 50+, but easily reproduced around 60 after starting up a slight incline. symptom is heavy shudder/shake. Possibly resolved by turning OD off.
P0356 (once) : Ignition Coil F (6) Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0302 (recurring) : Misfire on cylinder 2
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I just bought my 2015 F350 long bed Platinum a month ago, and the first trip with my 12,000 lb. 5th wheel had a vibration when starting out, but only from a stoplight with some acceleration or an incline, not at level slow startup.
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After starting my Prius the engine was knocking and shaking. After running the engine for 30 - 45 seconds it operated normally. The car is always parked in our garage and the outside temperature was approx 32 degrees or a few colder. I have 30750 miles on the car.
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Well I did it, moved Prius out of garage to drive, working on other car when Prius engine starts up runs a bit then stops. You should have seen the look on my wife's face, she just kept looking a me for a reason it would do that. We are still learning a lot about the Prius and she thought it may be normal. I started to tell her some high tech lie but decided to fess up and admit I had forgot to push the off button.
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I just turned 3000 miles on my C. I started the car and the engine chugged and knocked like I have never experienced. I turned off the engine and restarted and no problem. What gives?
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I haven't bought my "c-two" yet, but when I do, I'd like the ability to (in the morning) get in and just crack open the windows slightly (to reduce the interior heat build-up as it sits in the sun before I leave for work hours later). Can I do this without starting the gasoline engine? If so, what is the procedure?
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When I'm in a garage and start the car, with the headlights on 'AUTO', they go on immediately, even before the engine turns on and starts running. Is this bad for the wiring in any way?
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A few months back, I posted a problem with my '01 prius: engine knocking for @30 sec when first starting up. Does NOT happen on first start of day, only on subsequent ones. Random misfires not corrected by changing coils/plug. It's been in the shop for awhile, and no diagnosis. I'm ready to sell the thing, unless there is a quick fix. New hybrid battery 20# miles ago; used transaxle 10# miles ago (with 1.5 yrs left on 2 yr warranty); new tires 10 miles ago. Has 185,000 miles.
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This is my new Prius C's engine warming up in the morning. The engine shakes once when starting up and I seems to be able to detect a slight knocking sound.
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The noise seems routine. It happens when you get close to the car and open your door. I guess the car is anticipating that you will start the car soon and under the hood, some subtle mechanical noises occur. Just wondering what that noise is?
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I have noticed in certain circumstances that the engine seems to be in a resonance where it is shaking noticeably and getting worse not better. It happens in two situations.
One is after gliding and slowing to make a turn (with the engine off). As I am exiting the turn and hit the gas the car shakes a lot for about a second or two, then smooths out.
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2001 Prius. Within 15 seconds of starting the engine, I captured the screeching sound from the engine bay. Noise went away after about 20 seconds. New serpentine belt and new 12v battery installed. Pass dealer 27-point check. Transmission fluid, inverter fluid, high voltage battery were replaced about 18,000 miles ago. Current mileage 174,000.
Noise is not from the serpentine belt. I attached a mp3 file of the sound. "2001 Prius Noise.MP3" ..... Which component is making this noise?
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I couldn't start my car this morning. It is a Toyota Prius 2011 model. When I turned on the start button, these lights were on, but I couldn't start the engine. There is a zzz sound when I turn it on. What went wrong?
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When trying to drive my car out of the garage this weekend, it started backing up and then it stopped. It would also not do anything when I put it in drive. Next, the engine cut out. It would only stay on for a few seconds when starting it up again. It continued to do this. I had the car brought to my local mechanic who specializes in foreign cars. He called me today and said my car will not talk to the computer. He stated it must be the hybrid battery. He told me I need to take it to a Toyota dealer. My question is how to know if this battery is truly out and there is not another problem? I have a 2001 Prius.
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The engine starts with knocking, rattling, and vibration that lasts for about 5 seconds. It seems to be an intermittent, rare event. With nearly 250,000 Prius in the North American market and the onset of cooler weather, it is time to see how frequently this occurs.
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I have an '01 Prius, 185,000 miles. A few years ago, it developed an engine (?) knock immediately after starting; disappears after 30 sec. It has gotten progressively louder and now runs very rough during those 30 sec. After that, just hums along.
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I have a 2001 toyota prius. When I start the car and press on the gas pedal the engine rev's but nothing moves and there is some clatter from the engine. I can put it in B mode and drive it a short distance, but that's it.... The engine light has been coming off and on for a week now. It makes a loud audible tone and then I turn it off and back on and then it stops.
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