Prius (Gen 2) :: Engine Immobilization Light Continues To Blink
Jan 1, 2012
The engine immobilization warning is always going to blink on and off whenever the car is off/the keyfob is over 16ft away
View 2 RepliesThe engine immobilization warning is always going to blink on and off whenever the car is off/the keyfob is over 16ft away
View 2 RepliesThe engine continues to rev after I take my foot off the accelerator. Does it under many different conditions, but especially the engine needs to be warmed up for it to do this. Toyota just called to say there is nothing wrong with it, even though I had a technician drive it and tell me "this is messed up!" Apparently the master technician that worked on it today didn't have a clue. Under warranty and will fight it! What is wrong with the car?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1999 F-150 w/ 4.2 V6. and auto trans, truck has 219,000 miles on chassis but only 25,000 on engine and 10,000 on trans. I've been getting obd codes p0705 and p0715. I replaced the position sensor on outside of trans. but I continue to get the codes off and on again. I noticed that the O/D "OFF" light on the shift selector blinks simultaneously when the "service engine soon" light comes on. I've noticed that there is no low gear unless I have it in D from a dead stop, and not even when downshifting manually.
View 1 RepliesMy 2013 Prius v V with 60,000 miles just intermittently started to show 3-4 dash lights when driving: Slip, Brake, and ABS. Whenever this happens, I noticed the regenerative braking doesn't work and the traction motor refuses to turn off at a stop (like at a red light). The traction motor will turn off if I put the car in neutral. At first it happened with just those three lights, but now a fourth comes on...the LED lights indicator.
So what gives? Sometimes these symptoms last for days, and then they stop. Sometimes they stop for days, and then return. Once in a while they disappear (sometimes after a rest of a few hours) and then come back on after a short drive. Once, they persisted for days, then disappeared. A few hours later, however, I had the car parked with the power on for about an hour while talking to someone via Bluetooth (traction battery at 3/4). All of a sudden all the power to the vehicle cut off. When I turned the car back on a half hour later the symptoms came back and persisted for days.
This on again off again dance has been going on in a temperate Southern California Coastal climate (Orange County CA) and also in a hot desert climate (Coachella). It seems like a short...or maybe a problem with a brake actuator or sensor (same thing? dunno). I've researched this on the web, and couldn't find anything that matches exactly my symptoms. It seems to be related solely to the braking system, but why the LED light now? The LED doesn't come and go on it's own, it comes on in tandem with the other wheel-related lights. Very strange.
When I bought my 2003 20th it was completely stock, except for a pos blow off valve had been installed, and get this, the diverter valve was left on, and just capped off. I installed a no name CAI, and the check engine light came on, i had it turned off and when i start the car, or rev the engine high at all, triggers again.
View 4 RepliesThe green lights work on the AC and Max AC buttons. However, when I attempt the ignition on, fan off, press AC button 3x, fan to auto - nothing happens. No light blinking at all.
View 1 RepliesMy car will drive fine, then @ 60 mph or above sometimes it will sputter and the check engine light will blink on. I brought it to my mechanic and plugged it in. Miss-fire on some spark plugs. They replaced all spark plugs and wires. The car is sill doing the same thing. My mechanic plugged it in again and now just a miss fire on #2 plug. (even after new wires and plug) Only seems to happen once the car is warmed up. If left sitting for 15 hrs the check engine light goes off completely. Only to come on again, after driven 25 or more miles. What could be wrong?
View 10 RepliesI was driving on freeway today and the car start to stutter sounds like it's not getting gas the engine light to blink, so quickly exit the freeway and pull over the parking lot, turn the car off. Scan the car I got 5 codes all misfire 1,3 and 4 cylinder miss fire, I try to start the car it would crank but and try to run but if would die quickly sound like the car is not getting gas. Just wondering if fuel pump going bad.
View 3 RepliesMy wife has a 2003 Pontiac Grand am GT 3.4L V6. A few days ago my wife was out and tried to start the car and the service engine light came on and began to blink. (Prior to this the car was running well with no service engine light) The car was running very rough at this point so we shut the car off and I pulled the codes at witch four codes came up witch were: P0205, p0206, p0300, p0443. So I had the car towed to the shop and they said that they thought that it was the oxygen sensor but after that had been replaced they had concluded that the oxygen sensor was not the problem so they had placed the old one back in. Then they said that they restarted the car and it was running fine but then pulled it out of the shop and began to run rough again.
At this point they were thinking that there was a short so they checked the wiring from the ecm (?) back to the oxygen sensor and could not find any problems. And needless to say they started the car and it began to run fine again so they told me to come and pick it up and drive it for the weekend just to see if it was a lose connection that was possibly there. So needless to say once I picked it up the service engine light was still on but the engine sounded good so I figured I would drive the car home and maybe the light would shut off. Well upon taking off and getting a few miles down the road the engine started to idol at 2000 rmp when in park or neutral.
So I stopped and pulled the code and got P0443 again so while I had the scan tool connected I cleared the codes to see if the light would come back on with the same code or with multiple again. The service engine light stayed off. So the high idol continued for a few miles I also did try to restart the car and the problem did persist. About 5 more miles down the road the car started to overheat and the reservoir had overheated. So at this point the engine sounds good it is not running rough but is really high idol. The check engine light did not come on since I cleared the codes in that short drive but I do not want to drive it because of the overheating. I do know that the coolant level was good when we started the car.
So I drive a 2001 civic 5-speed and recently my check engine light doesn't go off right away after I start my car. It'll blink for a good 5-10 seconds then stops. Thought it might be the oil, changed it didn't do anything. What it can be?
View 19 RepliesToday I got the engine light blink a couple of times and then steady on. Parked the car, waited a few minutes, start again just the engine light on (not blinking anymore).
I scanned the car and got this
VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Tuesday, 06 August 2013, 13:48:09:11637
Chassis Type: 3D - B5 VW Phaeton
Scan: 01,02,03,05,06,07,08,09,11,15,16,17,18,19,23,27,34 ,35,36,37,38,42,46,48,49,52,55,56,57,61,62,65,68,6 9,72,76,77
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: None
Controller: 07C 906 018 C
[Code] .....
I have a hard time believing that all coil packs went bad. My wife told me that when she was driving the car she could hear a clicking noise coming from the trunk so I think this could the fuel pump not giving enough fuel but I was hoping to get an error for it.
Wifes car began to idle very rough and check engine light began to blink and beep, I took it to the mechanic today and he informed me that my control module was no good and it was a $400 dollar piece. I said go ahead get it done, cuz she needs the car and i couldn't afford to not have it done immediately. Question I have is does this small-ass piece really go for that much on average and what control module is it?
View 4 RepliesDriving while in 4x4 HI up a hill the truck started to slip. I stopped, shifted to neutral, and engaged 4x4 Low. I shifted back to drive and started moving up the hill. The engine started to lose power and the "Service Engine Soon" light began to blink. I put the truck in park. As I let it run a little bit, the engine started to shake as if something was very imbalanced. I went to check under the hood, and confirmed that it was shaking quite noticeably. There was no grinding or clattering of any kind though.
I turned the truck off for a bit, and then restarted. There was no light or shaking upon starting up; but as soon as I put it in gear and started driving I could tell it was losing power, the light came back on, and the shaking ensued. This occurred in 2wd, and both 4wd lo and hi. I parked it at a neighbors place and there it sits for now.
I plan to try and get the codes read. My other vehicles can't make it through the snow we have right now, but it is suppose to get warm later today and might melt enough for me to get one out. I also live out in the country, so the nearest auto parts place is about 20 miles. Same with a dealership service shop. I'm hoping I can buy and return a code reader from an auto parts store to assess if this is something I can diagnose myself or not.
It is the 6.0l gas engine with the 4sp automatic transmission. The truck also has about 107,000 miles.
I had a Check Engine Light a couple months ago, and I took the car to the garage to have it checked out. They told me they got a Fuel Pressure Sensor malfunction code, and that the sensor had to be replaced. I did so myself, an it is ridiculously easy, and the car worked fine. I noticed the Check Engine Light blinked a couple of times while I was driving, but never got steady. A couple of days ago, it did. Out of a bad gut-feeling, I purchased a ODBII scanner, and I scanned the car myself. I got the same error code as the garage did, but the sensor should be fine.
View 5 RepliesWhat are the common misfire problems with the mk4 R32? My R is acting funny every once in a while it runs perfect then some other times it seems to big and the check engine light starts to blink but doesn't stay on I ran for codes and it said I had a miss fire but after that the code never came up again but it still blinks.
View 7 RepliesI just have my 2013 Prius C3 for two months and few days back I noticed that the Slip Indicator light blink a few time when I went through pot hole/uneven road (low speed, ~20mph). In the same time, I can hear as if there is a piece of metal sheet somewhere in the car vibrated. Is this normal?
View 10 Replies2001 F150 5.4 Auto ... Truck was running excellent. Engine light and overdrive light begins to blink and it acts like its running out of fuel or water in gas. Baring made it home. Cleared the code and it comes back. Transmission seems fine.
View 2 RepliesI have an 01 Passat Wagen that has the Check Engine Light on. It runs great! I've had all oxygen sensors changed out and regular maintenance done on it. I have had it reset but then it continues to come back on. One guy told me he thought it was the catalytic converters. Is this possible? It has 115K miles on it.
View 12 Replies2nd gear runs fine, but occasionally, when in first i have a real bad stutter in the engine and it continues from the moment the clutch begins to engage on up. The car just seems to jump or skip along rather than run smooth.. It occasionally will work itself out but other times will continue for 5 seconds at which i switch into second gear and everything is gravy from there. What the main root cause of this is? I don't want to get the wrong thing fixed which I've been trending on lately.
View 4 RepliesThe light came on a few days ago, so I checked tires and made sure they were all at the correct PSI. But the tire pressure warning light continues to stay on. I've read other threads about a reset switch in the first generation GX, so is there that same switch in the second generation GX? And if so, where is it? Can't find anything in the manual about it.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 SantaFe Limited with 40k miles on it, first thing in the morning when I start it up there is what I can describe as an valve or lifter knock and it continues until the engine gets warm then all is fine. Oil and filters have been changed on a regular schedule,,,,,is this normal??
View 23 Replies