I got red triangle and headlight icon on the screen. I hooked OBD and It gave me error code P1116, I checked all my front, back lights are working fine.
View 19 RepliesMy Toyota prius 2006 get red triangle light appears when I start the engine and it disappears when I drive the car. When I stop the car, it comes back again. The warning light is like in the picture I attached.
View 8 RepliesI have around 68k miles on my 2009 Prius and just got a CEL, the Red Triangle with an exclamation point, an intermittently occurring VSC light, and an intermittently occurring yellow circle with an exclamation point on the upper dash display. I also have a car shaped icon with an exclamation point on my main display (ICE?). My scan tool shows P0093 as the only code.
View 19 Replies2004 Prius, 149,000 miles. Driving on a highway when suddenly it felt like a headwind was bearing down on me, and a minute later, the red triangle of death and all the other lights came on. Did not totally lose power. Pulled to the shoulder and while waiting for the tow truck, started and turned the car off several times.
After the first few times, the red triangle did not light up, but the check engine icon remained on. The tow truck driver had a very difficult time getting the car into neutral to pull onto the flatbed, and then when he took the car off the truck to park it at the dealership, he said it shifted "hard" into drive.
I don't have a code since I don't own a reader. What this might be? I really, really hope it's not the traction battery needing replacement. I have no training to replace single cells.
So I drive a 2008 and a couple months ago I started getting the Check Engine Light. Codes P1121 & P1116. Found out it was most likely related to a faulty Coolant Control Valve or Electric Water Pump. Since the pump was just recently changed I went ahead and got the valve changed.
The light is still coming and going but now when I go on the expressway that red triangle with the exclamation pops on with a little beep. Only pops on for a couple seconds and keeps coming back until I drive a bit slower.
Upon turning on my car and driving a few feet I had the Red Triangle of Death, Yellow VSC, Yellow (!) Indicator, and check engine light and I'm trying to figure out where I should start working on the issue.
The Codes were as Follows:
P3000 (subcode 123)
C0200
C1241
C1300
C1310
C1259
A little history:
About 3 months ago I had an issue with the hybrid battery and replaced a battery cell which stopped all issues. About 2 weeks ago I replaced the coolant inverter pump and until today there has been no errors, CELs, or any negative performance.
This is a Gen II, 2007 prius with almost 200k miles.
Unfortunately I had plans that I could not reschedule and made the drive to the location and drove back. I had serious battery drain and it was almost always at 1 bar of battery, sometime reaching up to 2 bars. There is also the sound of a fan coming from the back seat, which I assume is the HV Battery fan, but it is on regardless of if I have air conditioning or not. A/C is working fine. When I returned home the battery charged almost up to full bars, but when I came to a stop the battery drained in about 10 seconds leaving me with very low power to keep moving. After that whenever I slowed down the teal arrows showing a recharge of the battery were gone and the battery seemed to refuse to recharge.
Steps taken so far:
I topped off my engine coolant in the front reservoir as it seemed a little low, but I didn't add much before it was full. The other reservoir near the engine was just about full and taking off the other cap showed coolant filled to the top.
I tested the 12v battery with my voltmeter which came back reading 12.7.
Wife has a 2013 V and I bought a 2007 with 200000k on the clock. Got a good deal on the car and knew I would have some issues so here is what I am battling. CEL came on and throwing code P1116. We all know the generic code saying engine coolant temp sensor, cooling sensor clogged, etc. this is the only code on the reader. I checked the coolant level and everything is within standards. No leaks appear from the lines. I believe the carfax shows a fender bender so maybe the CHS tank sensor didn't get replaced? So, I guess what I am asking is:
Should I buy a MINi VCI to locate the problem (I plan on getting one eventually just wanted to save money isolating the problem now)? ECU problem? I have read previous post with bad ECUs throwing P1116 but these post were 2+ years. Sometimes it sounds like there might be gurgling from the dash...I say sometimes lightly because it is very faint but have also read older post stating air could throw the p1116 code so maybe a coolant flush?
Also, big question: is the engine coolant temp sensor identical to the CHS tank sensor? The local parts store couldn't find a CHS tank sensor part number just the engine so didn't know if they were the same.
I have a 2001 toyota that I was driving yesterday. I parked my car on the side of the road for 2 minutes to find something in the car. Randomly after a minute of being parked the car suddenly flashed the red triangle on the dashboard as well as the check engine light.
Also as well on the main computer screen where the radio stations normally are displayed a Problem alert appeared. It shows the PS icon, the Battery Icon, and the Red Car exclamation icon. Only the Car Exclamation point is red.
As some basic steps I tried (Because I don't know that much about cars) I opened the hood when the engine was off and cold and checked the air vent filter to see if it was clean. I cleaned just in case. I also check the gas cap to see that the cap was closed tightly. Also checked the tires air to see if that could be the case. Oil was looked at by me and I didn't see anything abnormal as well.
Today, I was driving on the street when I got the dreaded red triangle icon and the word "problem" appeared across the top of the MFD screen. I then noticed the bars on the battery screen kept lowering down to where they became purple when stopped with the transmission in D. The engine would usually start up at this point, but it didn't. I put it in B and gave it a bit of gas to force it to start up. Once I started driving again, the bars went back up, but it has happened two more times (every time the battery depletes to purple).
View 7 RepliesMy check engine light came on with a p1116 on my 2008 with 138k. I replaced the sensor, but the p1116 came back. How to fix. I'm going to replace the coolant today, I read somewhere there might be a clog.
View 1 RepliesI have several problems with my 2008 Prius that I will try to list below and I have done much of mechanic work myself but now I am a little stuck with some of the codes that are coming up and with some of the problems my Prius is experiencing:
Here are the codes that were scanned when I took car to a local parts store:
Coolant Temperature Sensor Evaporated Emission System (Vacuum Leak)
p3193
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor
Pump Control Circuit Low
" High
I replaced the thermostat and now I get the red light displays on the dash anytime I go over 45 and the thermostat light on the panel displays there is a problem. I think there might be air in the system. Should I have a mechanic bleed air out or is there an easy procedure that I can do on my own to fix this problem?
I have also purchased a water coolant valve and this will be my next part to replace at 106.00 dollars. I am not sure this will fix my problem with my heat but I do not want to replace the heater motor because those run 630 dollars each.
Being that it is winter I want to fix the problem so that we can drive the car with some heat and not get the red light to come on intermittently. How to get to the root of these problems listed above?
I have been having some hybrid battery issues. My prius is a 2006 with 198,000 miles. The original battery was replaced at around 120,000 with a junkyard battery. About a year later that battery gave up the ghost and I decided to rebuild that battery. So far that has worked quite well until recently.
My troubles started a couple weeks ago when I got the Red triangle and all the dash lights and the hybrid system icon on the MFD. Naturally I thought it was the battery again. Took it out and checked the voltages of the modules. All the modules where within tolerances. I grabbed a OBDII scanner and checked the code. It was telling me that the Hybrid current sensor was bad. I changed that out with the wiring harness from the old battery.
That lasted for a few days before the red triangle came back. I checked the code and it was indicating one of the blocks was bad. I think P3019. So I took the battery back out and replaced that block with other modules. Almost instantaneously the red triangle came back with two more bad blocks. I think it was P3012 and P3022. So I took the battery out once more and tested all the voltages of all the modules. Everything was 7.86-7.9v. So I decided to start the rebalance of the existing modules in hopes to find some bad modules.
I also bought a new 12v battery and installed that. I got everything back together and took it for a road test. It took about 30 mins before the triangle came back. I grabbed the codes and it was still indicating bad blocks. P3011 and P3018. I am a little at a loss.
My wife has a '03 that has been great. No issues. I am a excellent mechanic, on conventional cars and motors. Here's my story:
Bought the car used and working last week. Put in a new 12v Group 26 battery w/conversion. I verified the 12v battery was at 12.8v and when engine was running, 13.6v to charge the battery. Car was starting and driving wonderful for about 600 miles. No shuttering, no shaky starts. Mileage was about 38.6. Anyway, yesterday was driving and all of a sudden the warning Triangle comes on, Hybrid system icon comes up and the engine goes off. I was able to drive the car about 1/2 mile on the traction battery back to my work.
It happened to have a code reader handy and it reads a P3125, Inverter. I realize there are sub codes that further diagnose the issue, but I don't have that type of OBDII reader although mine is a very expensive model. Anyway, I reset the code and got the car to start. Motor begins to go up in RPM and throws the code again. I shut it off, reset the code, try to start the car and I feel it slightly jump forward, engine does not start, then throws the warning code again. I did notice the traction battery is at 25%. I do this two more times trying to get the engine to start before I call the tow company. BTW, the car rolled easy, so I don't think its the MG2 is bad, although correct me if i'm wrong but doesn't Mg1 start the engine?
Oh, incidentally, also the ignition key does not release either. The key release solenoid is energized unless I unplug the 12v battery, then I can get my key out.
My car Gen.2 was 200K. I change the water pump and thermostat on 150K. The reason to change the parts because I think my car a lot of miles. The car run great no problems. Till last month my car had overheat on freeway at night time. The temperature up to 245 F have the red triangle on dash and thermometer icon on Navigation screen. Before overheat on same day on the daytime when I take off I heard sound water running in the engine. The day after I check the level coolant in the reservoir tank was full but in the radiator need to fill up the coolant. After that when I drove the car the coolant overflow form the reservoir all the time. I have to check and fill up the coolant in the radiator every morning. I been the many shop ask them about the symptom of my car. Some they told me water pump failure, some said thermostat failure open all the time or some told me head gasket leak. I check all the engine didn't see any leak but I saw coolant overflow from reservoir...
View 5 RepliesMy 2003 with 150K miles has had the blinking A/C light problem for the past year or so. I ran the diagnosis, got the 22 code, so it seems the clutch needs to be adjusted or replaced. If I leave the A/C on Max with the fan on at Max, the A/C works fine (for at least as long as my daily commute, about 40 mins). Once I turn the fan down or turn Max off, the lights start blinking within 5-10 minutes and the A/C doesn't work. Is this consistent with the clutch problem?
View 5 RepliesJust used Carista to switch to a single beep when reversing. Whilst I was in the app, just out of curiosity, I checked for error codes. B1423 appeared. I didn't expect to see anything as the car is brand new.
View 8 RepliesMy '05 Prius with just 16k miles on it just started displaying the red triangle with exclamation mark (multifunction warning lamp?). It displays about every 3 times I start the car... The Info screen shows the icon for the Automatic Headlight Leveling System. So Ive been searching, and have found a few threads related to this, but the fix Ive seen referenced I cannot find since the posts referencing the fix are about 5 yrs old. Exactly where on the car I can find the sensor, and how it can be fixed?
View 19 RepliesCar was perfectly fine. Parked it in a parking spot, turned it off for a minute, started it back up, and BAM, Master Indicator Light is illuminated(not blinking), along with check engine light. (yellow, not blinking)
Code reader gives me these two codes: P0ac0 and P0afa
I bought an '04 prius about a month ago and it has already been at Toyota for over a week. It get's the red triangle, the yellow brake light, and the hybrid red car on the screen and says Problem! I took it to the dealer and he pulled the codes P3009 and info code 526. When you open the hood, the inverter overflow tank is boiling, so it must be overheating. I have read about the pumps going out and when the engine is cool there is turbulence in the overflow tank.
The guy I bought it from did say he had replaced the water pump recently. Toyota kept it for a week trying to replicate and couldn't, and even had the regional rep look at it.
Last month my red triangle would pop up along with the yellow head light symbol. Most times it would be for a few seconds, other times it would stay on for a few minutes. Today I rotated my tires and I thought I would check out leveling sensor while the tires were off.
I took my left rear tire off and this is what I saw when the sensor was removed.
So everything looked normal to me. Looks can be deceiving. I've seen pictures on here of leveling sensors where the guts are completely rotted out. That's what I was thinking I was going to see. Here is a picture of the bolt side of the sensor:
Again, it looked normal to me. If you don't know what you're looking for, especially if parts aren't mangled, it can look normal. So I took the four screws off of the sensor and this is what I saw:
The inside of the sensor was in pristine condition! The springs are shiny gold and there was only a small amount of dust inside the sensor. I started to think about how the sensor works and I figured out that the sensor must move in some way. Hmmm. But there was no bracket on it to turn the sensor.
I've recently had some problems with my 2000 Jetta VR6, so in the past couple months I've replaced the alternator and the coolant flange/thermostat housing. I bring this up because right after i finished fixing the coolant leak, i got a check engine light. I had screwed up, though, and switched 2 of the spark plugs when i was putting things back together and I assumed that was what caused the CEL to turn on. I put the spark plugs back in the right place after a minute or 2 of confusion... but the light has stayed on for about the past month. Got it to turn off by unplugging the battery for a bit, but it came back on after a couple minutes at idle. Took it to Autozone... and the P1116 code that pops up says "O2 sensor heater circuit open bank1 sensor 1." I feel like it was probably something that I have done to cause this problem, not actually just a part I need to replace based on the timing of the CEL.
View 1 Replies