Prius (Gen 2) :: Dash Symbols Return After 1 Minute Of Resetting Aux Battery
Dec 13, 2015
I have a 2007 with the red triangle & yellow ((!)) on, the symbols return after 1 minute of resetting aux battery", where I should start ?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2007 with the red triangle & yellow ((!)) on, the symbols return after 1 minute of resetting aux battery", where I should start ?
View 7 RepliesI have my 2004 Prius in the shop for a replacement of the HV battery pack. The car has approx. 120,00 miles on it.
The battery failed with all the lights, warning symbols etc. I just got a call from the dealership that its going to take longer than expected to get the car back to me. They have the battery pack replacement, but when doing the replacement, they noticed that the cables were "corroded." The cables for the battery need to be replaced before they will complete the repair. But the cables need to be ordered and won't be in soon.
Is this common? for these cables to corrode? Would this problem have caused the HV battery failure?
I had the dealer disable the beep in the "R" reverse position soon after I got my Prius. This worked great. After about a week, however, I now notice that the "R" symbol blinks whenever I am in the "R" position.
Also, when pushing the start button, the dash only showed the warning symbol and TRAC symbol for a couple of seconds and then went out. Recently, however, 8-10 warning symbols come on in the right part of the screen and then go out. Why this suddenly comes on?
I think the 12v agm battery is starting to go on our 03 prius. It wouldn't start after 4 days no use but did after 2. What is a healthy resetting voltage (with nothing turned on) for this agm battery as I'll check it with a multimeter? What is considered an unhealthy voltage?
View 1 RepliesThe last couple of days when I started the car it didn't turn over immediately as it normally does. Now when I turn the key the dash symbols all come on; radio, lights, etc work fine. I hear a strange close sound like lite weight metal fluttering which continues as long as the key is turned to start. But nothing beyond that.
View 4 Replies2009 111,416 miles (She does not knowhere Owner's Manual is.)
In the odometer window: (X) [+ -] appears.
Was told an arrow points left from a car battery symbol [+ -] to a circular symbol (X) = electric motor?
for the past 2 years (ever since putting in a new battery) my Saturn as been setting off a constant alarm without the presence of the warning symbols on the dash. You know when you leave the keys in the ignition, and open the door and get that annoying klaxon alarm? that's what my car does all the time. sometimes it goes off by itself, but you usually have to turn off the car and "reboot" it. There are never any warning symbols lit up when it does this, only the alarm. I took it to my mechanic and he said that there was nothing he could do, taking out the fuse for the beeping would somehow disable the car? I will soon take a shotgun to the fuse box if I can't find out how to take care of this problem.
View 2 RepliesWhy this would happen on a new 2012 Prius II?
View 19 RepliesI got in my car yesterday morning, put my foot on the brake and pushed the "start" button. The car's dashboard lit up, almost entirely, and stayed that way with a large exclamation point within a triangle (red) lit up as well. I pulled out my owner's manual and could find no explanation for the combination of these symbols, only their main uses.
When I went to turn the car back off, the radio came on and the transmission symbols (park, drive, reverse, neutral) all lit up and stayed on with the key slot blinking. I was very confused, so I put my foot back on the brake and pushed the start button, again. At this point, please refer back to earlier in this post to the second sentence and re-read everything to this point.
At this point, I thought maybe the vehicle needed its key put in the ignition for a recognition situation? One of my key batteries is already dead and the second one needs replacing, soon. The key became LOCKED in the ignition. After pushing the start button and off button several more times, a message appeared on my touch-screen saying something about a problem with the parking brake pedal being applied firmly while on a flat surface. Tried that, with no results. Eventually, I was able to remove the key and turn the vehicle off.
After calling the service shop, I was told to get the car towed in (it sits in the garage, facing inward, and the gear shift does not work!), and then had to explain that I couldn't put the car in neutral to remove it from the garage.
I also need new tires, these are worn through and I haven't even finished paying off the vehicle! One of the rubber strips on the roof has come off and I've stored it in the back of the vehicle for the past year or so, and inspection has to take place before Sept. 1, 2011.
Is it the small battery for starting the car, and can I replace this myself, or should I leave it up to the professionals because it is part of the hybrid synergy system and is still under the 8-year, 100,000 mile?
Why my 2002 volkswagen jetta station wagon is jerking, resetting the clock, flashing all the indicators on the dash, and Its stalling. When it start it to drive the transmission won't shift until it runs for about 5-10 minutes. One mechanic said the computer keeps resetting itself. The dealer said I needed a new transmission, but after 5 minutes the transmission shifts. It only has 117,000 miles.
View 19 RepliesI just changed out the battery in a separate issue I'm having with the car being dead every time after being left overnight. After changing the battery I had a new problem. The power windows wont work from the drivers side master panel. They worked fine before I changed the battery. There are a million posts online about resetting each window and that's great except for one problem. It doesn't work.
After the battery is unhooked the window switches all blink twice with a long pause. So, I follow the procedure and put the key in the ON position and roll each window down half way (reset and tried it rolling down all the way too) and then roll it back up continuing to hold the window switch in the up position for 1 full second after the window goes all the way up(some methods online variously say to hold it up for 12 seconds or 20 seconds. I tried them all). The blinking light goes out and the auto up/down feature works as expected from that specific window but no dice from the drivers master control.
One other oddity is that the window lock doesn't function anymore. On or off, each window will continue to operate from its own switch.
I have an 03 f250 6.0 150k milage and lately my A/C has not been working at its best. Its intermittent, and for some reason it will work fine until i get on the highway and it just blows hot air. Would this be a leak or clutch issue? One thing I have noticed if my oil/coolant is above 200 the A/C will blow hot air but not return to cold when the temperatures return to normal. I haven't done any trouble shooting so my first thing ill check are the fuses. As far as the compressor goes its an alien object to me I have never had A/C issues with any vehicle i have owned.
View 6 RepliesThursday afternoon I drove about 120 miles total in my 2004. At about 40 miles I left my wife to shop and drove on to 3-4 other stops for myself and then came back to pick her up for the 40 mile drive home. When she got into the passenger seat, she found that the carpet & mat on the floor were sopping wet, so we put some heavy towels over the wet area to protect her shoes. When we got home (with NO operational issues), I removed the passenger floor mat, put several thicknesses of more heavy towels on the carpet and placed 2 concrete blocks on the towels to soak up the water.
On Friday, I changed the towels and did not use the car. Saturday, I removed the towels, concrete blocks, and went to start the car so I could see if there was water dripping from under the dash from a plugged condensate drain, since I had not driven in rain or water on Thursday. The dash displayed every warning light imaginable including "check engine", hybrid system warning, slip indicator, brake system warning, Master warning (!), VSC, Maint reqd. Now it is Sunday and I still cannot get to the "Ready" light so I can start the car. My traction battery condition was solid green yesterday, solid blue today. The radio, interior lights, A/C fan, door locks, etc. all work.
Could there be anything under the passenger carpeting (or behind the dash which might have gotten wet which could be causing these problems/codes?
My 2005 Prius has about 141000 miles on it. The red triangle exclamation point comes on the dash and a yellow exclamation comes on the LCD 1st and then a 2nd yellow symbol comes on the LCD. The problem happens once or twice a day. It seems to start, run, and drive just fine. I do restore antique tractors and I am pretty good with computers and I have some pretty good mechanical know how. Attached are pictures of the lights.
View 1 RepliesMy truck shows check engine when i drive it cold but after i reset the battery, start and warm it up for few minutes i don't get the error codes
1. It says evaporative emission control system malfunction for the p0440
2. EECS incorrect purge flow for p0441
3. EECS Vent Control Circuit malfunction for p0446
I have 3 error codes and I don't know where to start?
I bought an 03 with 58K miles on it. shortly after I bought it the check main battery light came on, after the local Toyota dealer told me I needed a new main battery. I had a P3000 code, a high voltage leak. It turned out to be corroded buss bars and cables, with 2 leaking cells, $1,450.00 latter the onboard computer said the problem was fixed and my display read normally for about 1,500 miles before I started getting that code and the check main battery light again.
I took it back to the shop tat did the work and they ran the diagnostics on it again, checking the main power cables that led from the main battery under the car to the Toyota Hybrid system, inverter? Under the hood they checked all of the high voltage connections, they all checked out fine. The shop then took several days to do an online search for possible causes. This led to the CV trans axle with its electric motors and generators as the possible culprit. The car is running and driving fine, so I did the 60,000 mile transmission oil change, suggested by my mechanic ( apparently the fluid becomes conductive with age) the check battery light will go off if I remove the secondary battery terminal for a minute or so and stayed off for 2 tanks of gas after the fluid change but it did come back on.
I can reset the computer easily enough and it will stay off for 3 to 400 miles but I'm looking to get the damn light to stay off. I'm going to change the trans fluid again. Changing the drive motor or generator?, can this be done in the car? or at all? It may be that if this is the problem it may end up making sense to just put in a new CV transaxle.
I just replaced the blend door actuator. But now when I am driving its blowing cold air thru the dash vents one minute then super hot air the next. Also I had a problem installing the actuator over the keyed shaft on the housing...
View 1 RepliesSo the other day, jump in the car to head home from my exercise class and the dash is all lit up with warning lights including the exclamation point, but other than that, the car seems fine. Decided to drive the 2 miles home regardless and then drive carefully to the dealer another 3 miles away. They tell me the HV battery failed and they won't be able to get a replacement until early April. So I'm driving a free rental car which is fine. New battery is covered under the warranty. Car has less than 60K miles on it.
View 11 RepliesInstall new HV Battery in 2005 and now I have no dash display lights.
View 2 RepliesI've seen lots of posts about the traction battery regarding cooling fan speeds, sensors, overheating, under charged, but is there a dash light that warns the batteries are overheating before they are damaged ? I'm worried about someone riding in the back of the car, covering the vent and causing battery damage. It is hard to see if they are covering the vents when you are sitting in the front driver seat.
View 7 RepliesI went to open the hatch this afternoon to see if my new painting would fit so I could take it to the frame shop, and the hatch would not open. Nor would the door-unlock button work. The fob wouldn't open it either. Then I realized no dash lights were on, and the car would not start. I thought there was supposed to be a way to open the hatch from the inside, but I crawled into the back and could not find it.
So the 12-v battery was dead.