Prius (Gen 2) :: DC Charger To Test Battery Cells?
Apr 1, 2016
I found a decent deal on a 2nd gen prius. But I am going to need to repair the battery. I have already known that I can test and only repair the needed cells (since I looked into the situation when I was buying mine a year ago). Looking at the forums and saw there were a couple of chargers being recommended by the users; such as the supermate DC6 or the Hitec 44151 Quad X4.
I will likely want to charge 8 cells at time at least, as I would ideally like to get the car fixed in a couple of weeks.
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Is there anyway to charge a couple of batt cells by running the car.
Just replaced 2 packs and there voltage is 2-3 volts lower than the rest of the batt packs? the ones replaced are at 14.5 to 15 where the others are at 17-18 volts.
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My check engine light came on, I took the car to my usual mechanic, and he said the codes returned indicated that two cells in the batter were bad. (I just called to get the codes, but he's out of the office for about 30 minutes on a test drive...)
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Have replaced dead cells on wife's HV battery over a month ago. Threw this P0a80 code today and will barely move. She idles into dealership and they say it's the battery, really!
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I have a 2007 Prius and the red triangle showed up. It has less than 50,000 miles. I noticed that almost right after I start it up the hybrid battery fan kicks on. This leads me to believe that maybe one or more cells in the hybrid battery are overheating due to charging problems. Is there a way I can check this out without going to the dealer?
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Tested and replaced 2 bad battery cells in my 2007 Prius... Got everything put back together and now all dash lights are on and engine won't start... When i try to shift into drive or reverse it goes directly into park... I tested the battery without removing the safety key and the inside terminals are at 220 volts and the outside terminals are at 0 volts as shown by photo... Maybe due to a fuse somewhere?
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By hooking it directly to the battery, putting the solar panel in the sun to keep it fully charged? It's 1.5 watts. 12 volts. It has a built in over charge protection.
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Is it possible to do a long charge of the hybrid battery with a regular battery charger? If so how?
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I always keep the charger in the socket during charges and even when I'm not charging the phone.
Is this necessarily a bad thing, is it running down my battery?
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It was one of the most difficult battery swaps I've ever done...
I chose the Odyssey extreme battery. Purchased from Amazon.
The point of this post is that the OEM battery was leaking from one of the cells... Seems poorly made...
Perhaps this is why some owners are having dead battery issues...
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Just picked up a Ctek 3300 battery charger for my 2008 LS460L since we only drive it a few days a week. Is it safe to connect directly to the battery under the hood?
Where is the ideal spot to jump start on an LS? Reason I ask is that my BMW 6series have the battery at the back trunk but for any charging or jump starts it must be done under the hood where there is a terminal that goes to the battery.
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I bought a BatteryMinder Model 2012 charger. This is a low-amperage temperature-compensating multi-stage charger/maintainer/desulfator that is supposed to avoid the wear and tear that lesser chargers inflict on batteries in long-term storage.
The charger comes with a 2-foot cable section with a terminal connection on one end and a capped plug on the other. I like the idea of an easy disconnect so I don't have to get under the hood each time I want to take the car out for a jaunt. My first thought was to run the cable and plug to the grill area of the car, except there's no easy way to do this without the plug showing. Also, the permanently-attached cable is only 2-feet long.
So I'm wondering about the windshield wiper tray, passing from the battery over the hood's rubber seal:
I attached a photo, showing where the charger cable might run. I can't see any conflict with the wiper or other functions. Am I missing anything?
The charger itself would be screwed to the garage wall.
Also, how about using a charger/maintainer with a cover over the car? This charger should not be pushing the battery and causing any water loss. So, I'm thinking that destructive gases should not be a problem. Again, am I missing something?
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So I think I have a slow battery draw. Did a test and the first result showed a 1.4/1.6 amp draw. So I started pulling fuses, and the F8 fuse (in the engine bay) dropped it to 0.4/0.5. F8 fuse is what I believe is labeled as the Radio. I have no audio upgrades. Just the stock RCD-510.
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I need to know if it is safe to use an "Automatic battery float charger" I usually go away 30 to 60 days at a time, and inevitably when I came back the battery in my car is exhausted. Last year, to the advice of my mechanic I disconnected the negative cable from the battery. When I returned from my trip to Italy, I reconnected the cable, and the engine started with no problem, but the next day.....dead! The technician from AAA recommended an electric (to be plugged in) automatic battery float charger. (Car is always garaged) I'm getting ready to go away again, but I'm afraid to use the charger. Is this device safe or it can cause an electrical fire?
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My battery light is coming on intermittently but the truck seems to be running fine need to know how to test it to make sure that is the problem.
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Car was fine, then wouldn't start one day, after driving fine a couple of minutes before. Did this a few times previously, just tried a few times then it started again. There is no cranking when I turn the key, just a click. Lights work fine, stereo etc, no dip in power when turn key. I assumed it was starter motor so took it out and tested it - fine. Also tested battery - fine. Looked at a spark plug, fine, oil level fine. Don't see a reason the engine should have seized, as it was driving just fine, then wouldn't start suddenly, but I haven't tried manually turning the crank. I then looked at the switch on the clutch pedal that gets pressed when you push the clutch in, and allows it to start. Looked ok, but pulled the wires and bypassed it with a cable. Still nothing. Can the starter test ok but still be bad? Toyota Corolla 2003 80,000 miles ...
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It's a stock truck that lately does not start on the first crank (cold). I have a scangauge II and my ficm usually reads 48.0 Volts but occasionally drops to 47.5 but I don't think that's an issue. Batteries are about 2 years old and I have upgraded my alternator to 185 amps. I have about 10k on my fuel filters as well. Should I have the batteries load tested first?
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On washing my car recently, during wipe down I discover my solar roof is showing signs of rust inside the glass panels? I don't do anything special to my prius' roof top except for cleaning since its above my height.... anyways should I be concern about this?. 2010 Prius IV ...
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I just bought a 2006 prius. It had 2 bad cells in the battery pack. I replaced the cells and all seems to be well, they all read the same voltage and the car appears to be driving, charging, working.
I still have the red exclamation mark and check engine light. The only code I get says to replace hybrid battery pack.
There are no other specific codes or issues and it runs perfect. Basically I guess what I am asking is how to clear the light or figure out why the light is still on!
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QI charger cutting out after a minute or so? I use QI charger at work and my phone works fine with it (Nexus 4), and when I put it in the car there is a little whirr sound and the orange light comes on and all is good. However after a minute or so the orange light starts flashing and the charging has stopped - even though the phone is definitely not fully charged (can have hardly any battery left). I had a "bumper" case on the phone and took that off just in case it was raising the phone slightly, but it doesn't seem to have made a lot of difference.
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Finally got around to installing my new Hybrid battery charger from Hybrid Automotive in my 2007. Pretty easy & straight forward wiring install.
After installation I did the first test just hook up the charger to its dongle and no interlock and it looks ok shows 250 volts and 0 amps on there charger display but I have no battery fan. The fan is on in the charger but no hybrid battery fan..
No 12 volts from there charger to there fan control box input.
Install directions say all the fans should be running from the get go. Then I installed the interlock to see if it will charge and it does. Shows 222 volts and .337 Ma's which is correct but still no battery fan. No 12 volts form the charger.
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