My 2009 has been showing the CEL off and on for a few weeks. Have had it read at auto zone twice, two different codes. Both cooling system related, but not the same. Today I filled the gas tank and it went back off.
Is it possible for the cap to be causing the light, or would the scanners tell that in a code? I just hate to take it to the mechanic when it is running fine and the light is not even staying on.
Long time follower, first time user. 99 F250 V10 180,000 miles: About a month ago I replaced both upstream oxygen sensors. I know have the following codes:
0135 and 0155 for Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater HTR 21 and 11
Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 and 2
1409 for Exhaust Gas Recirculation Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Circuit
I checked fuses and PCM relay and all are good. I have 12 volts to both oxygen sensors and no noticeable wire burns. One of the possible causes given on code printout for 0135/0155 is to check for a disconnected hose to the EGR. All hoses are good. One of the possible reported fixes for EGR code 1409 is to repair oxygen sensor wiring. So my question is: Are these codes related. If I replace the EGR vacuum regulator solenoid, will this clear my codes from the oxygen sensors?
Two weeks ago a large, industrial truck dropped a piece of bent steel pipe on the interstate in front of my 2010, 50k miles, Prius and (sadly) I was forced to hit or swerve into rush hour traffic and cause an accident. It tore up a good part of the cooling system and did some body damage. Of course I didn't know this at the time, but it began to overheat, so I pulled off the freeway and had it towed to a body shop. After about ten days, I got my Prius back.
View 13 RepliesAfter replacing at a Toyota dealer in my country the JBL 6CD audio system under warranty (was not responding on the commands from front panel, the unit was faulty), I've found some error codes left in System Check Mode and I don't know what is their meaning. What those codes show, especially 380H error code? Here is how to look ...
View 4 RepliesI heard that you could place a flat screwdriver between the upper radiator hose and the end of radiator. Is this procedure really work?
View 10 RepliesGot a CEL a couple days ago and had it scanned by the dealer. Threw two codes:
p0068 - throttle position correlation
p0101 - mass or volume air flow circuit range performance intermittent
The dealer thought the MAF was dying or dead. I replaced it with a Bosch one from ECS Tuning this afternoon. I went for a test drive around the block but it seems that the problem persists. The idling seems rough, almost like there is a misfire or something. Perhaps on a related note I am still running the original battery that came with the car. I asked the dealer about the battery when they checked the MAF and they said the voltage was low and they recommended replacing it before winter. Is it possible that the battery is dying and it's throwing these two codes?
The service manager said to drive it a few days to see if the CEL clears itself or have it cleared (they can do it or I can do it via borrowing someone's VCDS). I'm tempted to just go and get another battery tonight and install it and see if that's the problem.
This video is about the Toyota Prius Gen 3 Temperature Indicators and cooling system overheating. I thought the prius did not have temperature indicators but found out it did, so this video is about how to know if your toyota prius is overheating and understand the basics of its cooling system.
View 2 RepliesI'm coming up on my 120K service and will be replacing the spark plugs, PCV valve and I wanted to exchange the engine coolant (SLL pink stuff) for the engine. I replaced that stuff on the inverter side when they replaced the heater at a TBS recall.
I have a haynes manual and have searched on prius chat, but just cannot find specific instructions about this. On my '65 Ford mustang, there was a stop cock that I would just open or I would pull the lower radiator hose. To flush I would just pull the thermostat and run water through the system to clean then refill with antifreeze and water. I think that it will take about 6 quarts so I ave 2 gallons of the SLL pink stuff.
I have a 2007 Prius, and bought it used about 4 months ago. I have not had any issues with it until last night. Last night I was driving home and the red triangle with the “ ! “ in the middle and check engine light came on. The car seems to be running fine, but it scared me to see the lights come on...so this morning I called my local Toyota dealership.
NOTE: I recently went to them for an oil change and they informed me that I had three recalls on my vehicle that needed replacing, but I did not get them replaced because I was told it would take 5-6 hrs (which I didn’t have at the time).
Anyway, they told me that it would cost $70 to have the codes read...and that did not include parts that may need replaced... I thought that sounded a little high for just having the codes read so I went to my local Autozone and they gave me this code:
P0A93 - Inverter Cooling System Performance
I have a 2006 Hyundai Azera that is coming up with the error code P2422. I have figured out that the code relates to the EVAP system. I have cleared the code a few times but it always comes back within a few kilometers. Also I have started to notice at some gas stations that the gas stops pumping around every $5 i put in the tank. This only happens at some gas stations but not all that i go to.
View 3 RepliesAfter finding that a battery was low and not getting charge, they found the alternator was bad. Replaced that. Next the battery that was low was able to be charged and did not effect the other battery. Both batteries have been load and charge tested and they both read 84% charged. I am told this is "good."
Next I swapped both fuel filters and did the oil change as well. I finally got a chance to get my friend to run his scanner on it. The results are injectors and FICM. The codes are PO261, 264, 267, 270, 273, 276, 279, 282, and finally 611. I guess this means that the FICM is toast.
I have tried salvage and no one has anything. I guess I still don't understand how this truck is capable of running daily with the computer throwing every code dealing with the injectors and the computer that runs them.
Is it possible to use so much coolant system stop leak that you could clog the transmission cooling system?The fluid is burned and seems like I am having problems with gear shifting and power from the transmission. 2003 Olds Silhouette...
View 1 RepliesBought a used Prius 2010 last december, Now the hybrid system is shut down and the assumption is that the hybrid battery is the culprit. No codes has been read out of the system but the car has passed 330 000 km so I guess that's very plausible. Have found a used battery from a 2009 prius who the local Toyota service facility says is compatible.
View 19 RepliesSomething in my Gen II 2006 Prius is causing a type of overheating condition in the hybrid system. The fault/error codes coming up are P3190 and P3191. If I turn the car off for 30 minutes and restart it, it runs fine for a period of time (but usually not more than a week).
I first noticed the problem a couple of months ago during my 45 mile (mostly highway) commute. While driving on the highway, I noticed that the Prius wouldn't accelerate when I stepped on the gas pedal. A couple of minutes later, my dash warning lights come on and the car started slowing down (no response to the gas pedal at this point). For a minute or so, I was able to change gears (reverse or drive) and move a little in either direction but the transmission stops responding altogether very quickly.
Dash lights that light up
Hybrid system error symbol lit up and I noticed that the hybrid battery charge level was at one purple bar.
The first time it happened, I had my car towed to the nearest Toyota dealership. The flatbed tow truck driver (to my surprise) was able to start the Prius and back it into a spot at the dealership. Some of the dash lights were no longer lit.
The dealer couldn't find anything wrong with the car except for the fact that my water pump was leaking. They replaced the water pump, cleared the error codes and drove the car around for about 45 minutes but couldn't reproduce the problem. I drove my car home.
note: this dealership replaced my hybrid battery and 'computer' (I'm sure it has a specific part name - I don't have the info) right before my warranty ran out over a year ago. I didn't have any warning lights lit up on the dash at the time but I told the master mechanic working on my car that it didn't have much power going to the wheels when I put it in reverse (I couldn't back into my driveway). After the hybrid battery and computer were replaced, I had no issues with backing into my driveway.
The same issue happened a week later. I turned the car off for 20-30 minutes, started the car and noticed that the bulk of the dash warning lights turned off so I drove it home. I took it to my local mechanic the following day. He cleaned the intake manifold, changed the spark plugs, cleared the P3190 and P3191 codes indicating that they were generic codes indicating a misfire and said that it was now running fine.
A week later the same thing happened. I did some research and brought the car back to my local mechanic and asked him to change the transmission fluid & to use the Toyota ATF WS fluid. He changed the transmission fluid (and noted that it was dirty), cleared the codes and I brought the car home. I unfortunately didn't get a sample.
We had a power failure that night so I plugged my pond aerator into the cigarette lighter to keep my koi alive and less than 2 hours later I came out to find the pondmaster ap-20 (20 watt) air pump (blows bubbles through 1/2" tubing) wasn't running and my car had shut off with the dash warning lights illuminated. I have run this little aerator for 4 days on a single tank of gas without issues in the past.
My check engine light came on the other day, with no symptoms or problems. Today I stopped at the Auto Parts store and had the codes read. They were P0440, P0441, P0446, and P0301. They are for the EVAP system and misfire.
I had read here that one of the codes could be for the gas cap so I tightened it and then, also as read on here, disconnected the negative 12 V battery cable to perhaps clear the check engine light. I was curious.
When I started the car again, I now have not only the check engine light, but the red triangle exclamation point. How would you proceed? The 12 volt battery is around 5 years old. The entire exhaust system was replaced last year.(not O2 sensors though)
The hybrid battery was replaced at 70,000 miles and I now have 110,000 miles on it. I really wonder why disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it caused more error lights to appear? Also, the Auto parts guy said his code reader was fine for my car but I seem to remember here that there may be a special Prius one.
Have been having cascading problems since installing PIS 10kWh system in April. Early system shutdown, failed BMS boards, then triggering of Prius warning lights. The latter required disconnecting the 12v battery to 'reboot' and cancel them per Robb of PIS. But then, when attempting to do an electrical load test using air con & other accessories, we triggered several yellow warning lights that do no go away with a reboot. Have been told that we need to have a dealer read the codes to troubleshoot.
Read more: [URL] ....
My dealers charges $60 for this. Sounds like all they do is drain the radiator and refill with new anti-freeze. I recall when it used to mean drain the radiator, refill with clean water, run the engine, flush, and then refill with new anti-freeze. If all they do is drain the radiator and refill, I guess I can buy the anti-freeze and do it myself and save about $45. Or is there more to it than the service manager described?
View 7 RepliesSo CEL came on a few weeks ago as it does here and there so got it scanned today and it said "cooling system too lean" could it just be the mods throwing the light. car is tuned so i thought cel wasn't suppose to come on and no mods to the cooling system beside cold air intake..
View 6 RepliesMy MIL came on the other night so I brought it to the dealer today for diagnosis.
Per tech, "Found 1 DTC P2181 for cooling system malfunction, checked measuring values, found thermostat sticking open.
Recommendation is to replace thermostat with housing." I have 95K miles on the car, original owner...first time in a long time to have an issue.
The SA indicated the thermostat replacement. The tech indicated the thermostat is in the front of the engine which is hard to access.
Planning on doing a flush, but how do i bleed the air in the system after? is there a bleed bolt?
View 5 RepliesOk, a year or two ago, a small leak in our 04 GX470 prompted me to have an a/c guy recharge system (little did I know how easy it was to do). At the time, he used his blacklight (during the day) and "thought" the condenser might have a leak in it.
Fastforward to now, the system stopped cooling. There isn't any noise from the compressor and the clutch does seem to engage normally.
I went to Autozone and rented the DVD on A/C systems. Using the gauges, I found there was no pressure on the H or L sides. I replaced the condensor (a no brainer ... it even came filled with desiccant/drier though I had to return it since the condenser didn't have the plugs in place so the desiccant/drier would have likely been 'wet' already ... no problem). I noted a very slight grainy, metallic in the system, but not very significant ... I did not flush any hoses, but I did look at all visible hoses for dye stains.
I connected a vacuum pump and kept it a 30mm Hg vacuum for 30 min and rechecked it 30 min later to see that it held the vacuum. The first time, it didn't, so I rechecked my connections and repeated. It seemed to work. I charged the system with 24 oz (27-29 is capacity so I wasn't quite full) and the system was nice and cold.
Unfortunately, cool only lasted 3-1/2 days!
The original condenser plug (for the desiccant reservoir) was plastic or teflon, but the one that came with my replacement was Aluminum. A replacement desiccant bag also came with another plug (a plastic or teflon one), but it seemed to strip so I opted for the metal one anyway (besides, it had two green 'O' rings to just one 'O' ring for the plastic one.
Two days ago, I thought I'd got it to hold the vacuum in the system, recharged it again (I dried the desiccant bag in the oven for 5 hours at 175 deg F to make sure I'd gotten rid of any moisture that had developed).
Dog gone it, it's hot again! Looking at it with my black light at night, I do see dye (I'm using the yellow kind) at the L-side Schrader valve and on the plug to the desiccant compartment, but no where else. Where's the drip line for the condensate so I can check to see if there's a leak in the evaporator?
I tried wrapping some teflon tape around the metal plug for the desiccant/drier, but it still wouldn't hold a vacuum when I tried using the pump tonight.
I have another dessicant/drier bag and plug arriving tomorrow since I'm afraid that it still could just be leaking out the base of the condenser, but I'm not sure.