Prius (Gen 2) :: Controls Shimmy At High Speeds - Hard To Keep Straight On Highway
Jul 2, 2012
I've noticed that at speeds of 60+ (especially 65+), the Prius control doesn't seem "tight." I wouldn't go as far as saying it has a "shimmy" but it's harder to keep straight on the highway. I absolutely adore my Prius but this bothers me. I had the alignment checked and it's perfect. I know all small cars tend to be less grounded than, say, an SUV, but I'm still curious if this is normal before I take it into the dealer.
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When I'm driving at highway speeds and hit the brakes hard-ish (e.g., if the car in front of me stops or if I suddenly realize I'm going too fast on an exit ramp), my 1997 Honda Accord feels like it's shimmying from side to side. It only happens for a moment, but in that moment I feel like I'm on the verge of losing control of the car.
I've only noticed this in the last few months. What this might be? I'm going in for an oil change tomorrow and would like to ask my mechanic to take a look at this, but I'd like to have some theories/guesses in my back pocket before I go in.
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Having trouble with a shimmy at 65-75mph .....
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2010 FJ Cruiser has an intermittent shimmy that you can feel in the steering wheel at highway speeds. Noticed it not long after new tires. Go around a long curve and it starts, then stays until you go around another curve and then stops. It is as if the wheels have to align a certain way for some harmonic effect. I had the tires rebalanced and rotated. My mechanic said they balanced up very well. Shimmy is better but not gone. Wierdest thing is that when it happens, if I keep my foot on the gas and gently press the brake the shimmy stops and the returns as soon as I let up on the brake. When I asked my mechanic if it could be 2 slightly warped rotors he said the shimmy would be worse braking not better.
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My '01 Aztek has a very odd shimmy. It only happens when turning right, at highway speeds, and when accelerating. Not when turning left, and not while just 'coasting'. Only when accelerating.
The mechanic replaced a tie rod end, and that seemed to fix things for a few hundred miles. But now it's back and is happening at lower speeds.
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So I have been noticing a shimmy/bouncing at highway speeds (between 60-80mph) for a couple of months. It started right after I had a local indy tire shop swap my sliver stock wheels for the chrome version of the same wheel I picked up locally.
Funny thing is I did my front brakes last Sunday and after putting the tires back on, the ride felt smoother at highway speeds. I figured perhaps the indy shop didn't torque the wheels properly (which I'm sure they didn't as they didn't ask me the torque spec and didn't look it up, and used an impact gun to tighten bolts). I torqued my front wheels to 103lb by hand after doing front brakes.
This Thursday, I did my rear brakes and torqued the rears to 103lb. On the highway the shaking/bouncing is back and dare I say more noticeable.
Could it be that I did something incorrect when installing the rear wheels? The tires are Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 with about 15k miles on them. Look to be wearing evenly.
I have an appt. on Monday to have the tires balanced at Discount Tire. I asked about their machine and he said it's a Hunter which I take to me Hunter Road Force balancing machine. Is there anything particular that I should ask or know prior to going in?
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Car suddenly started a high pitched whistling noise/metal on metal sound at highway speeds. It is intermittent, no noticeable pattern w/acceleration or braking. Similar sound at lower volume when the shock/spring is depressed (pushing down on that corner of the car). Louder at low speeds.
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When I am driving, especially at high speeds on the highway, the Navigation System on my Prius runs pretty slow. As the GPS icon is traveling, the movement is very choppy. It is not a smooth transition. Is there any way that I can fix this?
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I have a 2007 Sante Fe Limited that has 93k on it. Within the last year I have noticed the steering wheel will shimmy when you apply the brakes at high speeds, it's slowly came to the point now that anything above 40mph will cause the steering wheel to shake while applying the brakes. I am guessing I have warped or unevenly worn front rotors. The car supposedly had a break job done at 74k and this started happening at about the 90k mark.
I was looking at these : Front Performance Brake Rotors Posi Quiet Ceramic Pads for Santa FE 07 09
Second question, any tool list or required sockets sizes to complete a front rotor and pad replacement? I have a floor jack, jack stands, a set of 3/8 deep metric sockets. I also have a breaker bar. This is my only car so I want to make sure I have everything I need before I start taking stuff apart.
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i have a 2004 Mitsubishi lancer es 2.0 engine, and it's an automatic. I seem to consistently get a little under 23 mpg no matter how i drive. I've noticed that when going down the highway at 65 mph, it is at like 2900 RPM, is this normal? We also own a 2010 toyota corolla 1.8 auto and it only revs like 2400, and a 2005 xB that revs the same as the corolla, i'm just confused that with a bigger engine, it would rev so much higher.
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Getting some vibration at high speeds on the highway, and when I changed my wheels, I noted that there seems to be some free play in the ball joint on the end. Is this normal? Can I replace just the end of the tie rod?
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I have a 2006 accent 1.6l dohc. While doing highway speeds the rpms are very high considering the small engine. There for it give me a result of bad fuel mileage with 480km per 40l tank. I'm curious is there is any 6speed transmission I can swap out my 5 speed with in order to give me that extra gear to bring the rpms down.
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My car has a little bit of a shimmy between 65 and 80, can feel it more when changing lanes slowly, after 80 slows down to almost nothing and by 100 is gone. Road force and high speed balanced, new set of tires (Mich. PS2) still does it. One more detail, the steering wheels is slightly tilted to the left when driving straight, anything to do with this? I'm suspecting the rotors too, but I only have 3,400 miles on my car.
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I have a 04 v6 model , in the last couple of months when I am on the interstate at about 75-80 mph. I get a very loud vibrating noise coming from the rear of the vehicle. The dealer thinks the drive shaft has some play in it.
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I just bought a 2011 accent 5 spd ... Quick question, when I drive it at highways speeds. (65mph) I notice that i am running around 3500 revs. Is that normal? It seems a little high to me. Every other 4 banger I had never ran that high in 5th gear at 65 mph.
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When I'm driving at a certain speed (usually between 65-70 mph), my 06 Sonata GLS V6 develops a really soft (but really annoying) high-pitched whine that decreases when you take your foot off the gas. Not much at other speeds (sometimes it will kick in real quick at high rpm before the automatic trans shifts), but when the car hits 66-67 mph that little subtle whine kicks in. By 75 mph, it's gone (I drive 75+). Sounds just like a high-pitched dog whistle.
Not a wind noise....sometimes it sounds like it comes from below me, sometimes it sounds like it's coming from the dash. Dealer don't hear anything (of course), even when I'm in the car with the tech and can hear it (maybe I'm part dog.....who knows).
Here's my guess.......I think that it's the electric fuel pump. Sometimes if I'm outside the car, I'll hear a whine back in the fuel area that is almost the same pitch as the whine I hear at 70. Since the whine varies (or disappears) with engine rpm and application of the gas pedal, my thought is that I'm hearing the fuel pump hit a certain pitch, which causes the whine.
2006 Sonata?
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I have been hearing an intermittent high pitched squeal at 50 MPH and higher. Taking my foot off the gas or taking it out of gear doesn't change the noise. Hitting a bump or tapping the brakes makes it stop momentarily. It sounds like it is coming from the front driver side, though it's hard to tell.
I have about 33,000 miles on the car. My manual says that the brake pad replacement indicator should squeal when the brakes are applied.
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I drive a 2003 Pontiac Vibe GT (6 speed Manual) and I have noticed that when im in 6th gear going highway speeds, I have an RPM of about 3K. For this model I feel this value is high and im worried about engine wear and fuel economy. I'm not sure about the other gears, but from my knowledge of other cars in the same weight category, less horsepower and 4-speed automatic gearbox, my car should not have such high RPM.
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I have a 2014 screw 4x4 v8 that has been in the shop 5 times now for something that the dealership can't duplicate, and that is intermittent enough for me that I can't determine what the conditions need to be in order to duplicate it myself.
My transmission will shift hard under two different situations:
1) when rolling through a stop, or a momentary stop at a stop sign, the transmission holds up between 3 and 1, and when I bring the rpms up, the transmission shifts down into 1, making a hard clunk;
2) at highway speeds, more so when using cruise, if I accelerate and the truck shifts down from 6 to 4, there will be a hard shift as well. In fact, when I'm on a long stretch of flat, open road using cruise at 70-75, I can feel a slight bump through the steering wheel and floorboard, as if the cruise is trying to engage the throttle a bit more, but only for a split second. But that will happen quite a few times within a couple miles until I come up on a grade and the throttle has to engage for a bit longer to keep speed. Sometimes, the hard shift will do occur going to 5 as well, but 90% of the time it will be a 6-4 shift. If the truck decides to shift from 6-3, there's no issue and it shifts and accelerates like it should.
Again, this is so intermittent, but when it happens, it happens several times. I've had the service tech ride in the truck with me, all the while not being able to duplicate the issue. I understand that these are learning transmissions, so the only thing I can think of is when I try to duplicate it by accelerating over and over, that the transmission adjusts the shift pattern or fluid pressure to compensate.
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I just purchased a 99 Rodeo 4X4 with the 5-speed stick. It makes an intermittent high pitched squealing noise at highway speeds. This noise comes up through the floor right about where the center console glove box is. In fact, it really sounds like it is coming from the console glove box.
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2004 Grand Cherokee. I was pulling a heavy trailer 1000 miles, and while coming down a mountain pass 50 miles from the end of the trip the check engine light came on. All other gauges (oil pressure, temperature, etc.) had not changed while climbing or descending and I was in low gear while descending to save the brakes. I drove the rest of the way to the destination without incident. I tried turning the Jeep off and restarting it several times to see if the check engine light would turn off and it stayed on. The next morning the light was off when I restarted it and has not come on again since. I hooked it up to a scan tool and received 2 codes: P0152 and P0132. 2 days later I noticed that it was revving high while idling and in Park. It would rev between 1500 and 2200 RPM while in Park, and at 900 RPM while in Drive. Also, while travelling at freeway speeds it seems like it's trying to downshift for no apparent reason. I hold the throttle still and have even tried cruise control and it intermittently increases engine speed, without changing ground speed. I assumed that I got the transmission too hot while climbing/descending and that the error codes listed above (related to O2 sensors) were associated with that, but now I'm wondering if something more has happened.
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