I parked the car.. Came out to proceed but car wouldn't turn on.. No lights coming on.. I think I left the lights on.. But I was only away for like 20 min.. It's a Prius ..
View 18 RepliesOur 2005 Hyundai Accent GLS refused to start yesterday. It seemed like the engine was struggling to turn over. It took about 10 minutes and then the engine FINALLY started. CEL came on. We drove about 1 mile and back, and the engine seemed fine. We even turned the car off, and turned it back on with no issues.
We took it into the shop but it's been about a day and they can't replicate the issue.
FYI, the CEL code is "P2096" (Post Catalytic Fuel Trim Bank 1 System Too Lean). This has prompted the garage to look at the fuel pressure system.
Historical Issues:
1. Last year, we found out that the car had minor issues trying to start up. Specifically, it takes an extra second or two for the fuel to be injected into the engine upon start-up.
We would mitigate this by: sticking the key in > turning the key halfway > wait about 2 seconds > then turn the key all the way.
I wonder if this starter ignition or fuel injector is wearing out.
2. About 2 months ago, the car started to struggle when it came to changing gears -- especially on the highway when trying to reach the 4th gear. The car would also randomly jerk regardless if we were decelerating, accelerating or maintaining speed.
Around that same time, the car struggled to go uphill (especially on a very steep highway hill that's near our house). The CEL would flash and we were constantly nervous that the car would simply die and roll backwards.
It seemed like a transmission issue but the garage we took it to replaced the coils, wires, plugs, and vacuumed out excess carbon dioxide buildup. Since doing so, the car was running perfectly.
I'm having a very strange problem with my 2011 Prius.
About two and a half hours ago, I drove home and parked my Prius for the night. About an hour after I parked, my Prius started beeping, three short beeps, every couple of munutes. It's now been doing this for over 90 minutes. Because I can hear it from the house, it is very, very, very annoying.
I have checked all of the doors, and also took the car out for a quick spin around the block, in hopes of getting the beeping to stop. No luck. It keeps beep-beep-beeping every few minutes.
It has been unusually cold here the past couple of days, in case that has anything to do with it. That being said, it was a good 10-15 degrees colder yesterday, yet the car wasn't having this problem. It only started this evening.
My question is, what in the world could be causing this beeping? Is there any way to stop it?
I had my first potential problem happen yesterday. I parked my car in a parking lot and my sunroof wouldn't close. I think that the pinch protection was the culprit because it started to close and would open when there was about a 3 inch gap. It never closed but when I drove away and tried it again in motion it closed.
View 24 RepliesMy 03 Ranger 4.0L has become a mystery that has baffled every one I know. Everything was fine and I ran home to something from my house was in there maybe 10 minutes came out and the truck wouldn't start. it doesn't even crank over. out of the clear blue. I had a friend who works for a garage check it and he thinks timing chain. Since then I have been told it wouldn't just fall off sitting there with no indication at all there was a problem.
Thought maybe PATS system. Its in order. Put in on a computer from auto-zone and it shows a check engine light but the reading is there is no codes in the computer on file. I am at a loss. Its been months and I really cant afford to take it to a garage right now. Its the strangest thing ever no crank, no stalling just nothing I hit the switch it lights up like its ready to start and nada.
My radio was working fine on Friday, but the next time I drove the car, on Sunday, the radio wouldn't turn on. The power button doesn't do anything, pressing the mode button doesn't do anything and the voice command button doesn't do anything.
Everything else works... bluetooth, display, Nav. Just the radio/CD player won't turn on... it just says "Audio Off". Also, when I go into the diag screen, the Audio reports "NCON". I've checked the fuses listed in the Owners Manuel as audio and they all seem fine.
My 2011 Prius II hasn't had any issue for the 3 years I've had it until two days ago when the car simply wouldn't turn on. The battery would "whirl" when I would press on the brakes but when I pushed to power button nothing would happen and the Ready light would never come on. The power button didn't have any color (orange/green). The batteries were charged and would spark when cables were connected to them.
I tried it again about an hour later and it worked fine. I drove it for a couple minutes and parked it hoping that it was a fluke. Another hour later I tried to start the car and the same problem as earlier happened. I decided to tow it to the nearest Toyota dealership to get it examined/fixed, but after they've had it for 2 days now they cannot get the car to reproduce the same symptoms.
I got this truck from my step father, drove it from mississippi to washington (state) with minor problems. It's been sitting in my driveway for the last 6 months and I probably drive it once a week. I loaned it to my sister-in-law and she drove it for a couple of days with no problems. She went out one morning to take it and it wouldn't start, just cranked it for a few minutes and gave up. To make a long story even longer, I though it was fuel so I checked the pump, changed the filter, drained some fuel thinking water might have gotten in, ... to no success. I then started looking at electrical. Spark was getting to at least one plug. Pulled the distributor cap and cleaned it all up, replaced all the plug wires, and then tried starting it with the same results. (Oh, by the way, no check engine light so I assume no codes).
This goes on for a couple of weeks as it's in the driveway and I only pop the hood when it's not raining (we live just outside of Seattle). The other day I have the hood open, my wife decides to check on me since she thinks I'm talking to God and is wondering why I would use that kind of language when address a diety. I ask her to jump in and crank it while I pull a plug wire to see if I'm getting spark....again. Low and behold, the truck starts right up. I jump in to see if it's throwing a code and nothing. The thing is running great. I did notice that there is a ticking coming from the engine compartment and I realize the plug wire is still disconnected so I turn it off (with much hesitation) connect the wire, go back inside to start it and the thing won't start. I'm a private pilot and they say, if you're flying along and you do something and the engine stops, undo what you just did. So, I go back out, unplug the spark plug wire, and the thing starts right up. So, I start thinking, try another plug wire. I reconnect it, try another, and it won't start. So, what I figure is that it will only run when the second to the front cylinder plug wire on the drivers side on the engine is disconnected.
After about a 40 minute drive I notice this noise from the cabin when I parked. I popped the hood and took a short video. What this is? It's a Golf SE 1.8T. (Video)
View 16 RepliesDrove the car, 20 min to shopping, and when I came out the car would sputter and die??!! it happened a few times.. it would crank for really a long time, engine would fire up but sputter & die. I was cussing & let the car sit at mall parking lot for a bit, thinking I'll have to cab home but it started up again after 10 min and drove fine. It happened on a parking lot, not on the highway.
View 24 RepliesI have a 2000 acura tl with almost 200,000 miles on it. When I drive it for more than an hour, park to run errands then get back in after say 15 minutes the car will spit and sputter and die. In order to leave I have to hold my foot on the gas and break to force it to stay running. I run premium gas and in the winter I use seafoam additive with every fill up but it doesn't seem to work. This problem is more prevalent during the winter months; my mechanic is telling me the fix will cost 1200 for a full ecu reflash to fix it.
View 7 RepliesI had to drive 70 miles last week the temp outside was 98. My air conditioner was blowing cold air, I parked my car for 30 minutes. When I started my car again the air would not work, no blower nothing. I was on my way to have it tested, turned it on and it is working and blowing cold air. I do not to be stuck again traveling and it stop.
View 2 RepliesMy daughter's 02 Honda Accord is making a sound like a phone on vibrate every few minutes as it sits parked in our driveway. Not sure if this is pertinent but the driveway is sloped so the rear is higher than the front. I've search everywhere to try to locate the sound (thinking it was a cell phone left in the car) but it seems to be coming from under the middle to rear of the car. Could it be the gas tank pump going spastic?
View 1 RepliesI wrote about the problem I was having back in Jan 2014 (engine would crank too long if I left the car parked for 30 mins to 4 hrs) ..... well, I finally brought it o a good diagnosis tics place and some of the guys that replied to me we're correct ..... they told me that the crankshaft position sensor (1of 2 sensors) was faulty and replaced it.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1985 Ford Escort which I have to keep parked outdoors at the bottom of a very steep mile and a half long hill. It's right next to a river and very damp and cold and I only use the car once a week, very early on a Saturday morning. It takes at least five minutes of cranking to get it started with full choke. I then have to pull away up this 1 in 4 gradient hill with four of us in the car. About half a mile up the hill there's a junction and if I have to stop at this the car will often stall and be very difficult to restart. If I keep the choke out it will crank and crank and crank. If I push it in it will fire after a few tries but won't stay running. Having problems on really steep hills with cold engines and a manual choke?
View 1 RepliesLast 6th of Jan. my son parked his car, a 2008 Chevy HHR, and 3 hours later it wouldnt start. Not only wouldn't start, the Ignition key wouldn't turn, and he couldn't remove it. Checked ECM fuse, Good: Checked Batt. No voltage on the Batt. No corrosion, no loose connections. Put jumper on it, started right up. Took it to Advance Auto, Batt showed a CCA of 660 Amps., Alternator putting out 15 Volts.
View 2 RepliesI have a problem with a Torrent. Still have my old GP with over 400K on it. Anyway, son's Torrent wouldn't turn over so he got a new battery and it still won't turn over. I'm getting 12v to the starter but nothing when he tries to start. Have taken starter off to have it looked at tomorrow. In the meantime, anything else it could be? He just spent a small fortune having head gaskets replaced.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2002 Camry that has been having a tough time starting in the mornings over the last couple weeks. Today I went to start the car and it wouldn't turn over at all. My battery is pretty old, so I just presumed this was the issue. I went and got a new battery and put it in, but still not starting. In fact, the car isn't even turning over at all (no clicking sound that I associate with lack of voltage from the battery). The car just makes a faint "whinning" noise.
All the electronics/lights in the car are working and when I turn the car on the check engine light, abs light, etc turn on. Doing a little searching online, I found that when I turn the ignition from "on" to "start" the headlights should dim and all of the interior lights (check engine, ABS, etc) should go off. They are not going off or dimming, but I'm not sure exactly what this is indicative of? Is this lack of headlight dimming/interior lights going off a tell-tale sign of something ("that is for sure the starter")?
Should I pull the starter and take it in to an Auto Zone type shop for testing, or is there something else I should be looking at first?
o my wife was driving our 2005 Accent GLS with about 95k miles yesterday, and it had an issue that it's had three or four times before: the engine would turn over but wouldn't start while it was still warm. In the past when it happened, whoever was driving would wait a few minutes and try again. It always started on the third or fourth try after waiting five to twenty minutes.
Yesterday, however, she was frustrated and so called AAA to have them send a battery truck over and have them take a look at it. The truck came relatively quickly, and they started their diagnostic procedures. The battery was fine (knew that), and he tried all the standard things like cleaning the terminals/harnesses and whacking the starter with a hammer. My wife said that as she and the tech tried to start the car, the turn-over seemed to get shorter and shorter- so when she first tried it would turn for a few seconds, and after a dozen or so attempts it was only turning for a second or less.
Finally, the tech (who apparently seemed to be frustrated at this point) got behind the wheel while my wife was looking under the opened hood and turned the ignition on and held it. The positive battery terminal apparently started smoking and my wife had to yell at him to get him to stop.
After this point, the engine no longer turned over at all. He tried a few more things like cleaning the cables, but no change. He finally said that he would call for a tow truck, and we ended up getting it towed back to our house.
The problem is unchanged since yesterday: there is full power when in ACC mode, but when you turn the ignition all the way to the on position there is nothing but a single loud "click" and a high-pitched whining noise.
I left my ODB bluetooth interface at my office, so I haven't been able to see if there are any codes.
I have a 2003 Santa Fe with AWD, automatic, and 3.5L engine. Saturday I went to get in and key wouldn't turn. Tried to mess with shifter and steering wheel but no go, Wife got it to turn after I went to work. Won't start. Waited for a new ignition lock cylinder then replaced today. Still won't start. There is no chip in the key as far as I know and the kill switch thing is still plugged in. Jumping does nothing. Doesn't even try to start or do anything when I turn the key all the way. What am I missing here?
View 5 RepliesMy car wouldn't turn start today at school The ignition would "click" continuously but the car wouldn't turn over. Battery is fully charger and didn't start with a jump either. Alternator issue??
Anyways, me and a buddy tried to push start it in 2nd gear a couple times with no luck... is this even possible with our cars?