Prius (Gen 2) :: Car Has Slight Miss / Knock At Startup
Mar 17, 2014
My second gen prius has slight miss/knock at startup. Done 35000 km. Doing around 19Km/Ltr. No other problem.
Any need for tuning, plug checking, needed at this stage?
My second gen prius has slight miss/knock at startup. Done 35000 km. Doing around 19Km/Ltr. No other problem.
Any need for tuning, plug checking, needed at this stage?
My 2011 Camry LE I4 with 21k miles has a slight knock after cold startup, at Idle for a few minutes that disappears after warming up. If you start and drive and don't let it warm up the knock, under load, is more pronounced.
View 3 RepliesMy Prius has been sitting in the fridged weather in my driveway. It's Tuesday and the temperature is currently 18F. The last time I drove this car was two days ago on Sunday.
I started it up a few minute ago and heard a HORRIBLE knock or slap from the engine bay. It alarmed me to the point where I wanted to run in and grab my camera but I tried listening to understand what it could be. At first I thought it might be a belt came loose and was whipping around hitting the components but it went away after about 30-40 seconds. It was so loud that I thought the neighbor two doors down who was shoveling snow could hear it.
I will let it sit overnight and will definitely capture this on video in the morning. I have a feeling the noise will be back.
I once experienced the noisy engine start up.. It sounded like the engine was trying to run backwards or severe pre-ignition.
View 2 Replies2005 Escape 3.0 with 160k miles. Slight miss under cruise, goes away under slight throttle. No service history known about vehicle. Best to replace spark plugs and coils with Motorcraft parts? And the intake gaskets too? Suggestions for correct plugs?
View 14 Replies2000 F250 7.3L ZF 6spd 4x4 regular cab long bed 253k
DP F6 chip, 4" exhaust, WW2, EBV delete
I run 5w40 Rotella Synthetic. Oil was changed about 1,000 miles ago. I also added a quart of Hot Shot stiction eliminator. I use Power Service and Stanadyne lubricity in every tank. Fuel filter is new.(motorcraft)
For a month or so its been acting weird. I get a stumble/miss/stutter, at random, but mostly under hard acceleration and high rpm (specifically approx 2500-2800rpm). It will also do it on decel when I lift after accellerating . Recently, I noticed it is also idling roughly. The engine is shaking and it feels like a miss. When it does its "thing" it sounds like a single "knock". Occassionally, it sort of sounds like an injector "buzzing". I've been using the "stock" tune for the last few weeks, to minimize any chance of engine damage, as I have to drive it. Turning up the chip makes the problems more noticeable and happen at a lower rpm. The truck has plenty of power, and pulls hard, except for the "stutter". If I hold my foot in it to "push through" the initial stumble at 2500 or so, it will keep going a few hundred more rpm, and then really start bucking.
There are no meaningful codes. I DO have:
EBV related soft codes - makes sense since its deleted.
Overboost related codes- from turning the chip up - won't happen in stock setting
A soft code for the back pressure SENSOR. I have a new one and will be cleaning the tube when I get a chance. I unplugged the sensor and it made no difference in the miss issue.
I have recently done the following in pursuit of a solution to all this:
New IPR (autozone) valve and pigtail
New ICP (motorcraft) and pigtail ( sensor had oil in it)
New CMP and pigtail. (2 actually. First a standard pc139 for the obs, and currently a Napa echlin correct for '00) No change. Although it initially had the dreaded Ford small head light grey sensor and failed cct for #3 & 8. After the cps change, it passed cct.
Accellerator Pedal Position Sensor. It would not read any higher then 3.95v at wot, and only 0.50v at idle, so I installed a new one. After adjusting it a little, I have 0.76v at idle, and 4.02 at wot. Didn't affect the stumble issue, but it seemed to greatly improve/eliminate my parking lot speed "bucking".
I just did the UVCH's. The passenger side was pretty much unplugged. But they all looked good. No burnt, melted,or chafed wires anywhere. I probably could have just plugged it back in, but I changed both sides with new Motorcraft parts anyway. I did the gaskets and the uvch, but not the engine side harness/pigtail, as they looked ok. I also did the 0.50 mod as a preventative measure. After seeing the unplugged harness, I really thought this would be the end of the problem, but its not. Very frustrated.
As a side note, I was surprised to see that I have 8 AD injectors, and not an AE in cyl 8.
I have an old outdated snapon scanner. Its only good up to '99, but I am able to scan my 2000 as a '99. I think I'm missing some pids though.
I can do cct and buzz test, but no PERDEL readings.
As far as ICP, it idles at about 450psi, at approx 12% IPR dc. On a brief 2nd gear wot run, it will hit (and hold as long as I have road to stay in it) a little over 2900psi, at 41-42% IPR duty cycle. I did notice, during these near instantaneous stumble events, ICP would flutter on the scanner about 75-100psi. Its almost too quick to even see it.
Woke up to go to work and it started up with a rough idle, got a block down the road and it had a slight miss under acceleration. Guessing its a bad coil, I've got a spare featured I'd play I I mini miny moe when I get home unless.
View 5 RepliesI purchased a 2010 2.5 Altima with 9K miles in 2011. After @ four months I noticed a slight miss at 30-45 mph upon acceleration. I told the dealership and they said it wasn't throwing a code. After two more visits I again complained about the miss. At this time the service person handed me a "Customer Satisfaction Bulletin" that explained that cars (Altimas, 2009- 2011 with my trans. and engine experience this "SURGE" as they called it AND that it is NORMAL.There is no way in hell that a auto maker would produce a car that does what my car does and consider it NORMAL. Buy the way, there is a "FIX" that was done but didn't work, that involved changing motor mounts and computer programming.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2013 F150 4x4 with a 6.2 and it has a slight miss at idle. It's done this since new and over the 20kms it has now I've been given the round around on it from 2 different dealers. I'm told there is no code so they can't do anything. I'm thinking maybe a coil? Or perhaps injector?
View 6 RepliesTruck has a slight miss at 65k when in 6th at low rpm and also when sitting still. Wanting to replace the spark plugs. The truck has Motorcraft CYPS 12Y in it which shows up as SP519. No one carries those anymore. What's the next best thing?
View 12 RepliesI have a 2001 Excursion with the V-10. Two weeks ago, the upper nipple on the radiator cracked and I overheated. Was towed home and replaced the radiator with a quality aftermarket one. I then drove to the whiz wash and cleaned the antifreeze off of the engine.
Immediately I noticed a slight "miss" when cold, particularly when backing out of my driveway. I have no lights on the dash and it is throwing no codes. The miss gets much better (almost gone) when the truck is warmed up.
We've got a 2006 F150 with a 5.4 in it. One of the new kids was told to change the spark plugs, then when I went to start the truck the next day it was missing bad. Plugged in the Ford IDS, number 7 cylinder is dead. Only codes are for that cylinder misfire, and random miss on startup. So, I double checked the kids work and it was all fine. Tried putting a new plug in, didn't work. Moved the coil to a different cylinder to see if the miss would jump, stayed on number 7.
Used a noid light to verify COP harness was working, and it was. Put a new coil on it anyway since I had one, still missing. Used noid light to verify signal going to injector for the cylinder. Signal was good, replaced the injector for the cylinder. Still misfiring. Ran a compression test and the cylinder has good compression. The threads for the plug are fine, not cross threaded or torn out. The only thing I can think is that the PCM has gone bad in a way that its firing the injector/COP, but doing so at the wrong time some how.
Every other cylinder is running fine, O2 sensors fine. PCM isn't trimming anything back to account for anything, and if it was it would do it to multiple cylinders to keep the engine balanced. Cant think of any more tests, and I don't believe there is anyway that the airflow could be restricted to only 1 cylinder, but I could be wrong. Wanna try and solve this to keep from sending it to the dealer.
Im a newbie to the Camry's. Picked up from a relative a 07 Camry for $5k. It has 103K on it.
It has an issue to where it has some codes and the check engine light on with P0018, P0019, P0300, P0302, P0306 codes. They just all cam eup al lof a sudden while driving. Slight miss at idle which is the misfire codes but I can't pinpoint the issue for the P0018 and P0019 codes.
I have a mysterious problem with the BMW 335d concerning the engine. The dealer detected a "miss" in the cylinders based on the check engine light, but there is no real drive problem. However, I have noticed a slight hesitation and noticeable reduction is fuel mileage. They don't really know what it is but suggested replacing the fuel injectors, in case that is the problem. And if not, maybe it needs cylinder head replacement. That seemed to be a rather expensive (for me) way to diagnose the problem. I can't believe that BMW somewhere has seen this problem before.
View 4 Replies2003 passat wagon 2.8l v6 with p0421 and p0431...a slight miss as well...
Cold start up is fine and initial driving. After car warms, there is a slight shutter at idle (just occasionally) and upon acceleration with low rpms. (It really feels like a miss) Went to AutoZone and came back with the codes above. I thought it might need a new coil but now I am not really sure. I want my performance back but seriously doubt cats are bad at the same time.
I have a 2004 f150 with 135000 miles. Bought it a few months ago. I notice after the truck is up to operating temperature it seems to have a slight miss, you can kind of feel it when sitting in the truck. Cant really hear it. Outside the truck I am hearing a ticking sound. I have changed the spark plugs on the passenger side, because that's where the ticking sound was coming from.
Come to find out the last spark plug in the back was finger loose. Got them changed, on that side. Still have the miss after warmed up along with the ticking. Few weeks fast forward I put all 8 new COP on. Same results. I also have changed the oil and filter both with Motorcraft. Where I could look? I also have a 1 year unlimited mile power-train warranty.
For the past year or so my Santa Fe (49,000KM) the engine will knock for 5-45 seconds when I start it up after its been sitting a while. I asked the dealer and they said this is "normal" and cannot be adjusted.
View 16 RepliesI recently bought a 2011 460 L, CPO with 28,350 miles. I love the looks and how it drives, smooth! But I do have a concern. Before I go to the dealer I thought I would educate myself from the experienced LS owners. I am hearing a very brief (1-2 seconds) mild engine knock at a cold startup.
This only occurs when the engine is cold and has sat overnight. It never happens after this first startup, even after turning the engine off and then on again. It kinda sounds like the oil isn't getting where it should be for a few seconds. Engine sounds great with normal and hard acceleration throughout the day. The dealership where I bought it is 300 miles away, so I would be taking it to a local dealership.
Now I did hear this noise and mentioned it to the service manager when I first bought the car, and the service manager told me that this cold startup sound is normal. He also mentioned the direct injectors at idle. I guess sometimes it's hard to fully trust what dealerships say. Is he right?
1997 F150 4x4 210,000 4.6L Windsor 5 Speed. Engine totally rebuilt 15k ago (besides for timing chains and tensioners). No codes thrown.
This morning when i started my truck, it made a knocking sound (almost like metal slapping) that seemed to be coming from the bottom end of the engine. At first I thought it was a spun bearing, but then the sound went away after a minute or 2. I have Google'd the problem, and have found a few diagnoses such as: oil draining back from the filter (or something like that), or an exhaust manifold leak that stops when the metal warms up and expands, or even the starter motor not being aligned right and not disengaging properly...
This is the first time this truck has ever done this. I changed the oil and filter about 1000 miles ago with 10w-30 oil and I believe a WIX filter. Also, this is the first time using the WIX filter
The weather this morning was around 51*F, so not too cold (to me).
Also, a few weeks ago when I changed my oil, I noticed milky white stuff only on the bottom of the oil cap, and in the feed neck. The rest of my oil looked like perfect used oil. After I noticed the milky stuff, about 2-3 times a week I would clean the stuff out of the neck and off of the cap. Just recently, there hasn't been as much milky fluid. My coolant level has not changed since I marked it during the oil change. A few buddies have said it might be condensation, but it's never been like this before.
I guess my question is, is this something that could put my truck out of service if left untreated? I'm assuming it's not a spun bearing because the noise goes away, but is there a possibility coolant could be leaking into the case but stay the same level in the reservoir?
I posted a while back about my 04 5.4 having an issue at idle. I did all the normal things like replace coil, spark plug, etc etc. No change to the issue. It still acts as though it's misfiring on a cylinder and I get codes P0306 and P0316. Finally took it to ford and had a diagnostic check ran. Everything on the top end was in working order. The tech even put a known working coil on 6 and nothing changed. I was told that it's either an intake or valve issue on that cylinder. But no definite answer to problem.
Fast forward to yesterday. I got a wild hair at lunch and went out and started truck. Pulled injector plug off of 6. No change to the way it was running. I did the same for 5, 7, 8, 1, and 2. All of which made a big difference in the way it ran. It was obviously misfiring with no fuel to cylinder. This gave me the idea to swap 5 and 6 when I got home to see if the issue followed the injector from 6. I did NOT. I pulled the plug on 5 and got the obvious change in the way it ran. So there is definitely something going on at cylinder 6 that I cannot figure out.
PCM, bad intake, bad valve? I'm not rich so a trip to ford for repair is gonna have to wait. Truck seems to run fine when driving except for slight hesitation during acceleration.
2003 F150 5.4 72852 miles
I have a Rough Idle & sometimes a hesitation or stumble on acceleration. I cleaned the MAF & IAC motor & Air & Fuel Filters are new. I got a 20890 scanner & ran test 6 53 as suggested in many posts by BlueGrass. Here are My results & what They Convert to.
1 00F5 .3675
2 0051 .1215
3 0000
4 0000
5 00A3 .2445
6 0000
7 0000
8 0000
I'm guessing the cop's are ok & probably need plugs? I was hoping to just swap a coil. Too cold to do plugs & truck won't fit in my garage.