My 2007 Prius has 127K miles on it and is idling rough, especially noticeable when the car isn't moving.
I've changed the 12V batteries, spark plugs and used cleaner on the throttle body. Car acceleration has improved but fuel economy and the rough idling remain unchanged.
I have an ELM327 and the Torque Pro app and the car is throwing off no codes.
2008 2.4 GLS auto, 64000 miles
Only taken this car on 2 highway road trips. 2 years ago = 34mpg on 900 mile trip (@36000 miles), last week = 31 mpg, EXACT same trip, this time in December, last time in September. Other difference - slightly perceptible tick noticeable if I stand in front of car idling.
Bought July 2009 (almost 24 months old) @ 32000 miles, oil changes every 3000 miles since, tranny fluid at 60000.
Just picked up my 2004 Prius from the Toyota dealer body shop. The driver's side was scraped by someone who wanted to be in my lane. Fortunately, we were only going 35 mph. The rear door skin had to be replaced, and most of the side had to be prepped and painted. There are a few silly mistakes: they forgot to replace the driver's door plug, forgot to replace a lower clip, and smudged a tiny area new paint on the bumper. I brought that to their attention and they are going to take care of it... they have to order the plug and clip.
However, as soon as that conversation was complete, it was time for them to close shop. I sat in my Prius, started it, and the check engine light was on. Wasn't on when I dropped it off for the repairs. Also, on the way home, I noticed the engine wasn't turning off when I came to a complete stop (even though the animation says it was off). At idle, the engine is also rough. Looked at the charge bars, and well, there were only two bars showing.
I thought perhaps, though it's not done this before without the animation screen showing it, the engine was on merely to recharge the traction battery. On the way home, the traction battery returned to full charge (green), but the engine still was not turning off when the vehicle was at a complete stop... not was it turning off when coasting... and when arriving home, even with the car in park... and still idling rough. All the while, the animation on the screen is indicating the engine should be off.
When I replaced the traction battery three years ago, I also replaced the 12v with an yellow top Optima. I wouldn't think the Optima is already going bad. I also do not believe in coincidence. I wonder if perhaps some bad fumes have tainted the MAF, or who knows.
Had first rain since purchase of Prius v almost got stranded as our Prius would lose power not allowing us to move forward, we were able to reverse and accelerated. While driving at a higher speed than felt safe, and in power mode, allowed us to get to pavement our Prius would still lose power and almost came to stand still several times. As we have to traverse this road daily we are concerned heading into winter. Is this typical?
View 4 RepliesI changed timing belt and water pump DIY back in Oct 2015. Ever since then, I get rough idling (car kind of vibrate and engine kind of struggling) after warm start (no problem with cold starts, it did stall once after the warm start).
Two days ago, I got a P0000 code, I thought it was due to low oil (happened before, I topped off oil 2500 miles ago), so I changed oil and filter. No problem yesterday, but today on my way to work. I got the p0000 code again.
This problem has been getting worse over the last 2 years. When the car starts it idles fine at about 1000 RPM. As soon as it warms up, it starts to idle rough, between 500 and 750 RPM. It almost quits running. As soon as you give the car some gas it runs just fine. About 3 weeks ago I got a "Engine Lean" check engine light error. I reset the system and have not gotten the error again. Since then I have: changed the MAF cleaned the EGR (made sure it closes completely and ohm out the coils in the actuator) changed the O2 meter on the exhaust manifold cleaned out the throttle body Ohmed out the air idle controller. What I should check next. I was planning to check the fuel pressure in case it is a fuel system problem. It is a 1999 ....
View 5 RepliesI have APR state I+ and a VWR intake for the last 14 months. My car normally idles at 800 RPM.
In the last few weeks I've noticed it idling a little rough at ~750 RPM.
My car is a 94 camry, but has a 96 1MZ-FE engine from a avalon. Bought used and has been a great car for ~3 years. Just hear last couple weeks, it would start running and idling rough for a few minutes at a time. The last time I drove it home, it completly stopped on me on the side of the road. It finially started to make it home and now have in the garage. Now it will crank, but won't start. After you crank it, shut iginition switch off, then back to start position, you get a pop out the exaust pipe. From these forums and my haynes manual, I've checked the camshaft sensor, it appears ok (1.1k ohms), crankshaft sensor (2.0 k ohms), 3 of my coil packs, front side (1.4 ohms) manual says .5 to .85 ohms, so i'm not sure about this, the mass air flow meter (2.9k ohms), and it has the 5 volts to it, coolant temp sensor (2.3k ohms), replaced this last year. I haven't checked fuel pressure, since I have to go rent a tester.
View 14 RepliesJust noticed the other day the Passat was idling significantly rougher than usual, most of the time it's smooth as butter but not so much lately. It's not rough like a bad misfire, just not very smooth anymore. This could be indicative of the dreaded oil-pump bolt failure rearing it's ugly head (finally)?
View 1 RepliesMy Dad Purchased an 06 Camry, 2AZ-Fe engine w/140,000 miles on it from a family member. He was told that the engine had some issues but wasn't specific about the problem. He recently passed and left the car to me. I used to be a mechanic but i have little knowledge on Toyota. The car cranks/starts easy, but idles very rough. I scanned it and the codes I retrieved were p0300,0301,0302,0304. I haven't done a compression test or a leak down yet, but plan to tomorrow. I also will check resistance on the coils and check the condition of the plugs. I looked through some old posts on here, and seen this engine has head bolt issues. pcv issues. and oil consumption issues. Should i pursue trying to fix this or leave this project alone.
View 3 RepliesCar is idling rough. Mechanic said it might be an oil restriction not getting to a sensor and advancing the timing.
View 1 Repliesi got a problem with my 96' 2.4 auto cavalier. It idles really rough at idle. I've replaced alternator, battery, idle air control valve, intake, plugs, and the fuel pump in the last year and a half. I've noticed that the rpms will fluctuate between about 625-675 when it's idling rough. About once every 11 seconds the car will rev up for a moment and will idle smooth but then it idle rough again. Every one in a while it will throw trouble code p0200 random multiple cylinder misfire.
View 14 RepliesI was just at work tonight and went out and started my car for it to warm up (it is -20) and go back inside for about 15 mins, I come out and as I am walking back to my car. I notice tons of exhaust is blowing out from the bank puffing like a steam engine and idling insanely rough with the RPM gauge at about 900 RPM with a EPC code. I immediately shut off the car. Cautiously turn the car back on. Car is idling normally, EPC code is gone, rev it a bit. Everything seems fine.
View 20 RepliesI have a 2006 Hyundai Accent that won't start. My wife was driving home the other day, and while she was sitting at the light she said she noticed a sudden change in the idle. She said the car starting shaking a little and idling really rough. When she tried to accelerate after the light changed, she said the car sputtered and would barely go.
She was only a couple of blocks from the house so she continued home. The car made it the rest of the way home, but she said it never went over about 5 mph even though she was pressing the accelerator as she would if she were going about 30...the car just never responded. When she pulled into the garage the car died as she was turning. Now it will crank but it won't start at all.
I tested the crankshaft position sensor with my multimeter and it was bad. I bought a new one and put it on, and I tested it immediately. The new one works, so I plugged everything back in and tried to start the car...nothing, just cranks and won't start. It's getting fuel and fire as well (tested both), but it's not hitting on any of the cylinders.
I have a 1993 Dodge Stealth (3.0 V6 SOHC) that has been idling a little rough, especially when the a/c is on. It was suggested to me that a dirty throttle body could be the cause, so I cleaned it. After I did that it ran great with the exception of idling around 1000 RPM instead of the usual 300, then the next day driving home from work (ran fine on the way TO work) whenever I tried to coast or engine break my engine began to shudder and run really rough! what could be happening?
View 1 RepliesI have an 08 Passat 2.0T with 44k on it, just did the 40k service around 42k. This past Friday I filled up from almost completely empty, and later that day and ever since the engine has been idling rough and the CEL came on. Gas cap has been checked already.
Should I wait to go to the Stealership until I've burned this tank of gas out? Is there anything else I can do that you can think of?
But I have a mk4 gti 1.8t awp and recently it's been going downhill. Right now my only mods are a fmic, Cai, and a 3 in catless dp to a 2.5 in straight pipe. My car recently starting idling very rough and would practically die, the lights would also dim. While casting the idle was very rough too. Then yesterday my car started idling even worse and dying multiple times, plus my turbo stopped boosting and making what I presume to be the "death whine".
I replaced my spark plugs a few days ago and I checked my timing belt and it looked fine. I couldn't find any vacuum leaks either so I'm not sure what would be causing the rough idle? My valve cover gasket leaks and makes my sparks plugs covered in oil but I don't know if that could cause the rough idle. I unplugged my maf and ran it and there was no improvement.
I've got a 2004 Explorer 4X4 with the FlexFuel 4.0L V6 126,xxxish Miles... Last Monday i noticed that the x was idling rough around 500rpm. While in park or driving.
I spent Wednesday looking for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner, cleaned the MAF, Changed the Hose that runs from the intake to the evap purge valve thinger.
Broke off the two torx head bolts holding the TPS on and had to buy a whole new throttle body. Installed the new throttle body and fired it up. it idles around 1000 for a few seconds then drops to 500 ish rpm. While the rpms are coming down it runs as rough as it did before..
I've filled it with premium gas and added a bottle of gas dryer to the tank and still idling like crap, drives fine though.
I have a 2000 Ls 3.9 V8 125,000 miles that started idling rough.I checked for codes and got p0171 (bank 1 lean), p0175 (bank 2 rich) and p0307(cylinder 7 misfire). I swapped cop and sparkplug from cylinder 7 to cylinder 5 and erased the codes.I ran the engine for a while and rechecked the codes to see if the misfire followed the cop and plug. They did not. I still get p0171,p0175 and p0307 (cylinder 7 misfire).
View 7 RepliesCheck engine and tcs light came on solid. Rough idling and rpm fluctuations while cruising. Brought it to toyota and they scanned it revealing a P2195 code: bank 1 air fuel sensor stuck lean. So what I'd like to know is; How long was the vehicle in the shop? What is involved in repairing this problem?
View 10 RepliesOur '02 Toyota Camry with 92,000 miles has been idling rough for awhile. I tried cleaning the throttle body which actually seemed like it made it worse for awhile. I do need to replace the valve cover gasket and I don't think the spark plugs have ever been replaced. Is that a good place to start?
View 6 Replies