Prius (Gen 2) :: CVTs Not Behaving Normal - Car Takes Time To Go Fully Into Drive
Sep 16, 2012
I've never had a CVT before and am wondering if this is normal...
I have to back out of my driveway at my house. After I back out, I stop, put the car in drive. If I let go of the brake the car starts to move but slow at first then it kicks in like it was halfway in drive and completing the "shift" (I realize CVTs don't 'shift' but I can't think of a better way to put it). It feels like it's taking a few seconds to go fully into Drive when first shifted into it.
The car has 53,500 miles on it and had the 50,000 miles transmission fluid change. Is this behavior normal?
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It takes almost 10 seconds for the AC to come on in my PIP when I first start the car. Is this normal?
Sometimes, if the AC has just been running, it will come back on in just 2-3 seconds.
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My A/C hasn't been seeming too cold lately. It works, it just takes a lot longer than I remember it last summer to get cool. I checked my low-side port using a "EZ chill" gauge I just bought. Doors open, AC max cold, hi, recirculating and it was about 35 PSI - which I think is supposed to be about right.
But I've seen it's dependent on ambient temperature . It was 90 degrees outside. According to the "EZ chill" gauge, it suggests 45-55, which seems way to high to me.
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Often times, after the ICE has fully warmed up, there is not enough stopped time at a red light for the ICE to go down to 0 RPM and enter stage 4. Would switching to "R" force the ICE to stop sooner and thus enter stage 4 sooner?
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I just got my Prius v for few days. I noticed that I only saw the battery bar fully charged once and for a very short time. Also, when I idle my car for a period, the battery would drop to three to two bars. Is it normal or there is a problem to my battery? I got 49500 miles on it,
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I have a 2010, the EV mode ( as you know) takes a certain amount of time before it kicks in, depending on the weather. I do a lot of very short(3 mi) trips.
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Why when I am in hot weather it takes a long time for the a/c to start cooling off the car...
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I wonder why the AC takes time to start heating on cold mornings. Actually. It gives warm air after about 5_10 minutes of driving. Is that OK?
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I am new to the Prius experience as I just bought by 2013 Prius 3 last week. I have a question on the EV mode and how it works when I am in normal drive.
This is something I observed when I am driving and I wanted to check whether it's normal.
When I am accelerating, vehicle is in EV mode and the progress bar is green. As soon as it pass the separator in the hybrid indicator (it turns white), the EV mode light turns off. When I hit the brakes, speed goes down with the acceleration and the progress bar goes back towards the green side. However my EV mode light does not turn on until I go way too close to the charging section of the bar. Once it's enabled, it stays in EV mode (green) until I pass the separator again.
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Sonata GLS 4 Cylinder with roughly 100k miles. The car runs great, shifts great, drives smooth. The only issue I have is starting the vehicle. When turning the key the car cranks sometimes longer than normal and sputters a bit before fully starting. I feel somewhat of a jolt like the engine is firing but its not what I call smooth. The other day it cranked longer than normal started for 1/2 a second then died and I had to turn the key again to start. I have already replaced the spark plugs and air filters. A while back we had the fuel filter/pump replaced but I'm not sure what else to do considering that the car runs fine otherwise. I read something about an EGR valve and maybe it's a vacuum hose?...
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My grandfather recently died, and left me his 1999 Ford Windstar. He's had it since it was brand new, and as of today it has 249k miles on it...
It hadn't been driven for about a year since he was sick for quite a while. I took it for a 30 mile drive to see what kind of condition it was in. Once I jump started it, the CEL was on. Things I noticed while driving on the city streets:
- Van takes longer than normal to accelerate
- Really loud - I'm wondering if something is up with the muffler
Once I hopped on the highway and hit speeds in excess of 65 MPH, the "O/D OFF" light began flashing. The van wasn't driving any differently than before - at least I didn't notice anything. After another 5 or so minutes, the CEL began flashing. Again, the van wasn't driving any differently than before.
The one thing that was prevalent at this high speed also, was how long it took to accelerate. I really had to floor it to get it to go from 60 to 70. I took it to the auto zone by my house (which was the plan all along) and pulled the following codes from it:
-P0171
-P0443
-P1401
I wasn't able to get a read on the Tranny codes since they didn't have a scanner for that. Where should I start? Here's what I know so far:
-As for the 0171 code, respectable people on this forum say it most likely is due to a Vacuum leak. Any places in particular I should look?
-The 1401 code seems to point to either a bad DPFE Sensor and/or Carbon buildup in the EGR sensor/valve.
-Don't know anything about the 0443 code.
-I didn't get any codes relating to the misfiring that took place on the highway. Not really sure what that means.
I do a big DIY when it comes to doing work on my vehicles. A good tutorial and pics/videos and I'm off to the races. I plan on doing a lot of the work myself, unless it will start to require specialty tools and the like.
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I know that average normal tranny temps for the new 6.7s are 200 degrees give or take which my truck does as well. but I'm wondering about how long is normal for the tranny temp to get up to that normal range? My truck can take anywhere from 20 minutes to almost an hour depending on if I'm on highway vs lower speed driving and it's been that way since I bought it. Am I worrying over nothing or my worries not just worries?
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No codes, no obvious troubles other than, when I use the power window control on my 99 passat to control the driver side rear window, I have to hold the button down sometimes for 1 second, sometimes for 15 seconds before it actually moves. If I try to operate the window from the actual button on that door( the rear door), it works fine with no hesitation or sticking. No, the safety lock is not on. I am guessing it is something electronic but as there are no burnt fuses or damaged wires, I am left confused.
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After not driving the car for over a week, the battery was dead and I discovered that I had not fully shut the trunk. I hooked up a charger/maintainer with the battery still installed in the car and it has been on for 48+ hours and it still shows as charging. I have several of the chargers and use them on other cars/motorcycles where they work as expected. I've never had one take this long to indicate charged.
I'm sure others are using maintainers and wondering if it is normal that the charger does not indicate full charge. Voltage with charger running is ~14.7 and ~13.7 unhooked. I believe it is a 4a charger.
What is normal voltage when fully charged and what is minimum voltage to crank starter?
Should have measured the voltage before hooking up the charger to know low it was......
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We've just had our first few autumn days where a heavy dew settles on the car when the temperature drops in the evenings. When I left the restaurant last night, the moisture was so thick on the outside of the glass I couldn't see out the rear window. I turned on the rear defogger and it was soooo slow. It took five minutes before you could start to see the wire lines in the glass appear and 20 minutes to clear. None of my other Lexus' have been this slow to clear the rear window.
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Now that the summer has finally arrived the southern Finland I found a problem with my climate control. When the car gets hot from the sun and the climate control starts cooling it takes up to 2 minutes until I get cold air from the vents. It doesn't matter if I let it run on the AUTO-mode or that I turn the temperature all the way to the LOwest position with full "thrust".
I checked the service history of my car and the AC has been serviced and filled last summer. (the basic fast service method). I didn't want to service it again since I'm afraid that all that money would have gone to waste. I haven't found any leaks tho. The radiator is pretty beaten up from all the debris and road salt tho.
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When I start my truck after it has been sitting for a while... I.E. Everything is cold. It takes about 2-3 seconds for the alternator to start putting out voltage (the lights are dim, and the voltmeter on the dash registers about 11 volts). My question is: Am I running on borrowed time and should I change out the alternator, or is there another underlying problem I should be looking for? OR... is this normal; I've never seen this before.
2002 s10 p/u 4cyl stick shift ..
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My embattled 92 civic hatchback has developed an issue that makes it take forever to start. I put the key in the ignition, turn it to the start position, and then I have to wait for up to 10 to 15 minutes to hear the click-hum of the fuel pump priming (which turns off the check engine light) before I can start it. I've noticed that it's much worse on wet days, but generally starts right up if it's only been off for a few moments. I used to just give the Civic ample warning before I need to go somewhere by running out, turning the key to start, and then letting it sit there, but this is beginning to wear down the battery. I've replaced the main relay to no avail, and once the car is running it does just fine, which makes me think that the fuel pump is fine.
Full disclosure: this thing also has a bad oil problem. A diesel mechanic changed the head gasket several months ago (owing to yet another starting problem, and I'm starting to think it was the same starting problem, and that I blew the head gasket from trying to push-start the thing), and in our efforts, we seem to have messed up the valve cover gasket. There is oil in the plug wells, and there's some power loss as the engine is trying to cough up the oil. I haven't replaced it yet because it doesn't seem to be a critical issue as long as I keep feeding it more oil.
I've done some searching on the web, and the general consensus of the internet (and the internet HAS to be right, right?) is a bad ECU. When I look this up in my manual, getting to the ECU is just a matter of pulling the carpet in the passenger-side floorboard out of the way. Okay, great. Only problem: I can't find a place where I can buy a good ECU. I could probably find one at a junkyard, but there's no guarantee there. If I do manage to find one, I want to be able to return it if replacing it doesn't fix anything.
Fuel pump - checked before we changed the head gasket, came back okay
Starter - I changed it by myself before we changed the head gasket
Ignition Switch - The key is optional, but everything else electronic in the car responds properly when the switch is in the proper position.
Distributor/Rotor cap - Changed when we changed the head gasket
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When brake pedal is fully pressed and my car is in drive the pedal vibrates. The only thing I thought of is that my intake is touching something, but I don't see anything.
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I have a 2008 VW Jetta 2.5s. In winter i have noticed that my car takes too much time to heat up when the AC is turned ON. Generally, if i drive for 5 minutes and the temperature of the engine comes to the center ( in the temperature dial on the dash board), the hot air starts coming out. Is this normal. I haven't noticed this in other cars. Do i need to check anything?I do have the coolant liquid full.
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It seems to me that the RCF is very poor at downshifting. I have owned the car for around 4 months now. If I am cruising along at around 30 to 40 mph and really push the pedal to the floor it honest to God sometimes seems to take a full 2 seconds to respond. It pauses, then downshifts and picks up a little speed, and then it finally goes. It drives me crazy! If I am already in a lower gear and punch it, it goes immediately.
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