Not very car service oriented.....but changed my own spark plugs tonight. Now, check engine light is on and engine will not accelerate. My wife leaves for work in 7 hour and I gotta get this car back running if at all possible!
View 11 RepliesSometime back my 2007 had it's water pump replaced free. Some time later I noticed a gurgling sound when I accelerate. It has been too long to get it fixed free. I assume it is air in the system. I have spent 45 minutes searching the web, but I haven't hit on the right search terms.
View 1 RepliesWhen I accelerate, particularly between the 50-60 mph range, the engine makes a very subtle, yet definite clicking noise. Mentioned this to the dealer - the car is still under warranty - and of course, they can't replicate the sound..is this common?
View 19 RepliesMy 6 months treg, died climbing a hill. I selected low, than central, and rear differential, but after 100m my Treg stop. Not able to accelerate the engine.
Engine running, no message on screen!!! The acceleration was not working.
I have a 93 escort with a 140,000 miles with the 1.9 and AT. Sometimes when I go to accelerate the fastest it will go is about 10mph no mater how far I have the gas pedal pushed, and the engine does not rev up at all. It just acts like I am coasting and not using the gas pedal. The car idles fine and will rev up and down when in park.
View 3 RepliesCar will be running fine, then intermediately when trying to accelerate car will stall out. When this happens on my screen I get a warning PS+battery that says main+the red ! with the car. I also get a red triangle with ! on the dash display along with check engine and brake light comes on. When the car is restarted, sometimes it won't have any power when trying to accelerate then after a few times of restarting car will run fine.
I have done the maintenance to the throttle body and cleaned the MAF sensor. Since I have done this, it has happened less frequently. And now it hasn't been stalling out, but when the errors flash on dash screen the accelerator has no power.
I drives grand Avega (new accent). I had a problem on my car. on instrument cluster there were no indication P,N,D,R and speedometer didn't indicate. Engine able to start normally but can't accelerate it seems like A/T transmit ion on higher shift.
Before that happened I installed a LED for additional lamp on door and I use /jumper a power from behind of fuse box.
2007 Chevy Suburban, 65K milesLet me start by saying I took this into to the dealer and they found nothing!
When I accelerate, I get a "flutter" in the engine. The best description of this flutter is that the RPMs go down about 200 or 300. I think it feels like it is sluggish when it accelerates. It is most obvious during the 35 - 60 MPH range, but you also see it when cruising at 70 MPH.
I tried adding some fuel treatment and ran some 93 octane through it to see if it was the fuel injectors, with no change in the behavior. No error messages or engine light is on. Regular oil changes and services (60K service, every 3K miles for oil change). Driving behavior has changed since I bought a Prius 3 months ago. It used to be driven 40 miles / day (+ long trips) and now is driven about 40 miles / week (+ long trips).
I have a 3.6L V6 2006 Passat and every time I accelerate, I hear this Tin-Can-like hollow noise from the engine amost like a rattle from the exhaust. Finally I was at the dealer today and I mentioned it. The mechanic came out to the car and could hear it as I revved the engine. We kind of isolated it to the FSI pump... there was also a very audible ticking noise from the engine like in the old days with valves.... He couldn't tell what's causing it?
Unfortunately they didn't have another used or client's V6 Passat VW on the lot to compare the noise to see if it is normal. Mine has 22,000 km on it. He also said a new one may not have it at first while the car is still new and tings tighter, but as one puts some mileage on it he thought the noise may start becoming louder. It makes the car feel like a cheap japanese car, rather than a nice tight engine noise one gets from a german car...
My 07 Passat 2.0T is making a noise when the engine is cold and when I accelerate. As if the exhaust manifold has a hole in it. What could be the problem? The car is throwing O2 sensor codes ...
View 8 RepliesI know with the regular Prius it was accelerate briskly to speed. but just what is "briskly" ? for some it could be at the rate of zero to 60 in 3 seconds, other it would be 20 seconds. So what would be the best rate of acceleration for the C to get best mileage? how about best acceleration to speed, say 50 mph, and still get good mpg without pissing off the rest of the road?
View 19 RepliesMy 2007 Prius 4h with about 157k miles took a dump on Tuesday. My son was waiting for me in the car with both the air and the radio running on full blast. He'd pushed the power button twice (not sure if that matters) to get the air to run cold. After 20 minutes he turned it off. When I got back to the car, I push the power button and get a message stating "the P lock is not engaged" and to park on level ground, which I already was. I push the power button again start the car and all of the warning lights lit up, but the car didn't start. I push the power button and the warning lights would not go off. I had to push it a couple more times before they finally faded off. I tried to turn the car on again, same thing. No power. I lower the windows and they barely move. Eventually the car wouldn't respond at all. I had three different tow truck guys (they kept sending the wrong kind of truck) try to jump it.
View 16 RepliesI just bought this car last night from a guy with a dealer license. The car was used, so he sold it with an "as-is" statement. I've read there is a 2 day law to return used cars, but he never gave me this option.
I test drove the car but nothing appeared wrong except the heater did not blow hot, thought the car wasn't warmed up. May be unrelated. Anyways, driving on the interstate I noticed he pulled the battery before selling it to clear the trip memory, and all of that information. So I asked him and he said it was for a small part he installed (he showed me, it looks like a thermostat of some kind with a hose coming off of it, he did not know the name).
I have a 3SFE 1997 engine. I've installed a Toga HV oil pump. My engine also has an oil cooler. But when I turn on the engine and accelerate it oil starts shooting out of the oil filter. When I remove the filter it has blown out the filters O-ring. I use 5W-30 since I've rolled it of the show room. What can it be?
View 4 Replies02 camry 2.4 I4 LE ... before, around 100K miles ... engine light on cause by Catalytic Converter issue, used magic way in this forum,the engine light has been solved successfully.
right now, 175k miles
problem:
1. engine light always keep flashing when driving.
2. low idle speed <500 at any gear except "Parking".
3. gear "D" at stop, start, reverse, accelerate around 50 mph, whole dashboard was vibrated
action made:
1. "dogbone" motor mount was broken and has replace brand new.
2. throttle body cleaning has done.
My air/fuel mixture is fine. But when I accelerate then let off the pedal the engine stays at high rpm, I have to blip the throttle to get it back to idle. ?
View 1 RepliesJust reporting following problem that seems to affect most VW TDI engines with DPF - I have just experienced it on my Phaeton - basically as you accelerate you get the engine fault - workshop warning with a flashing coil (glow plug heater lamp) - this is accompanied with reduced performance (no Turbo) in a protect mode, stopping and restarting the engine clears this temporarily. the MIL eventually stays on (performance unaffected until next time the dreaded engine fault appears) - It's a bit scary and if you go to the dealership, they will try to convince you that you need a new sensor and DPF and estimate a cost of 1.5k plus)
I can recommend RD garage services in Shepperton (Richard is an ex VW Phaeton and Touareg Specialist) Richard changed the sensor and performed a forced regen cleared all of the fault codes (the gearbox had even gone into a performance limiting mode due to the faulty exist pressure sensor). All is now well car back to pulling like a train and back to mid 40's mpg on a run.
99, 1.8T, 215K:: Drove 10 minutes fine, turned off, turned back on, stumbling to get an idle...stays steady at 900RPM (normal enough), but engine shutters, hard to accelerate (slow pickup), a bit louder... (limp-home mode)
I am thinking Air mass meter based off of old SAAB Turbo experience, and am going to get it plugged in to check codes.
I have a 1995 Ford Thunderbird with the 4.6 V8. I have owned it since it was a year old, it now has 70,000 miles on it. A couple years ago it developed a problem while driving. Hard to explain, but seems like it is misfiring or there a fuel restriction somewhere. This shows up when i floor it, the transmission kicks down and the engine struggles to accelerate, you can feel when it clears up, the car shoots forward. It seems like if i smoothly step on the pedal it is better, but not always.
This problem is also noticeable when the revs are low, like just before the transmission shifts down, like when climbing a hill, you can feel a shudder, if i accelerate and the transmission shifts so the revs are higher the problem goes away. Also, shutting off the overdrive so the revs increase works too. It really feels like the engine to me, although it does not go as far as to backfire.
2 years ago i replaced the auto transmission and torque converter with a factory one direct from Ford.To diagnose what i think is an engine problem i have: replaced the fuel filter (wasn't dirty) removed the injectors and had them cleaned and tested (they were fine) checked the fuel pressure (fine) checked the vacuum (fine) removed the exhaust to look for cat blockages (nice and clean) replaced the plugs, wires, and coils checked that the timing was in spec, although i don't think there is a way to adjust it
The car has the early version of OBDII - it does not have any active errors.
The car starts and idles fine, cold or hot, and when it is not acting up, still has excellent power. It does sit inside all winter though.
I have a 2007 Sonata Platinum Edition with a V6. I changed the battery in December 2015 and the car has been sitting since then waiting for my niece to buy it. I haven't driven it since the battery install until today. The problem is although the car started easily I noticed the Check Engine Lite is now on and so is the ESC Off light. No matter what I do the ESC on off button it still says ESC Off. So I thought I'd take it for a ride only to find out that the engine won't run much faster than an idle. Floor the gas pedal in drive or reverse and nothing happens except the car moves very slowly. Just a little faster than it would if you put your car in gear but didn't give it any gas.
View 3 RepliesI notice some faint knocking from the engine when I accelerate. I notice this symptom during summer months.
What to do? 2012 2.4l engine ...