Prius (Gen 2) :: CEL Came On - Misfire Due To Oil In Combustion Chamber
Sep 5, 2014
CEL came on in July at 165K miles, though there weren't any noticeable issues with performance. I took it to the dealership and they found P0300 and P0304 misfire codes. They replaced the spark plugs, and everything seemed fine for over a month.
They said I still had original spark plugs, which I refused. causes, replace/repair engine? I had 100K service at this dealership, which included "Replace regular spark plugs". I found out later from them that because the Prius doesn't have "regular" spark plugs, they didn't replace them during this service and didn't bother to tell me.
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My '06 Prius just started making this noise. the check engine light is NOT on. I haven't really heard this noise before in my recollection. I just got an oil change 3 days ago and when I got the oil change there was no indication from the dealership that there were any issues. The engine only makes this noise when the combustion engine is engaged. I can't see any wobbling on the belt drives or and loose parts in the engine. The spin appears to be coming from the engine block or around the pullys for the belt. My first thought is that it could be dirty gas because I first heard this sound after filling up. I am 300 miles from home and have to drive home today.
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I was going to change the spark plugs on my 08 Camry CE today, so I removed one of the starters, and used my spark plug socket to extract the plug. The plug was sticking, so I pulled my socket out to get a better look at the plug, but when I pulled it out I noticed that there was a brown slimy liquid a good inch up the socket (I assume it was oil?). I looked down into the chamber and saw the plug surrounded by the fluid, and now I'm freaking out. Should I have my car towed to the mechanics and have them look at it? I feel like this can't be normal.
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Have the APR RSC exhaust - developed rattles, specifically in one of the RSC muffler chambers?
I've had my exhaust installed for almost 6 months. About 2-3 months ago, I noticed a rattle from under the car somewhere. I finally got underneath the car a few weeks ago to check it out and the rattle is most definitely coming from the rear RSC muffler (right before the exhaust tips). I'm positive that's the source and I'm guessing that the welds inside for the baffles / walls that compose the RSC technology failed, and a piece is now rattling around inside. It only rattles at low RPM, but it's loud (especially in a parking garage) and super embarrassing.
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RX 400H 2006 model. After 130k km, the car suddenly stopped with check hybrid warnings. The one and only lexus dealer in Greece replaced the hybrid unit due to failure of the power module. ( the car was on recall but they have never contacted me). After the replacement there was a rattle sound coming from the combustion engine when it was running on the morning for 3-5 min.The new inspection of the dealer showed a crack on the head gasket of the 4th cylinder.( I have post it here under a different username) .
The options that I was given was either to have the engine replaced with a used one or to fix the old engine. The cost of fixing was triple of finding an engine. So I purchased a used one (via ebay!) , it was from a car issued in the United Sates. The one and only dealer refused to put it on my vechicle because it was not going to fit and work due to different electrical wiring . So I found a mechanic who managed to put on the us engine easily and with no issues except from a yellow light that goes on seconds after staring the ignition key.On the diagnostic tool shows a warning about ABS system although the brakes are ok and ABS works fine. The car is running after engine replacement for 25k km with no problems. I attach a photo of it.
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I have a 2005 F150 with the 5.4L V8. It has 70,000 miles on it and until yesterday and has been a great truck. While driving in traffic yesterday the truck started running rough and hesitating. It through two codes - misfire cylinder 5 and misfire cylinder 6.
In response, I purchased two new coils and 8 new autolite plugs. The plug installation went smoothly and the coils all went on without incident. However, this didn't fix the problem!
The next day I found that cylinders 5, 6, 7, and 8 were all having issues. At this point I also had an "O2 stuck lean" code so I pulled the plugs and found all four brand new plugs fouled and smelling like gas and an exhaust that smelled like raw fuel. This led me to replace the O2 sensor on the drivers side. With the new O2 my lean code disappeared but I still had a rough idle.
Further troubleshooting found that injector 6 was stuck open (which presumably fouled my O2 causing it to read lean and dump fuel thus fouling all the plugs on one side). I replaced the injector and the rough idle disappeared and all seemed really well as the truck idled in my driveway.
However, as soon as I hit the road I noticed a major hesitation. The motor is also noticeably louder and has a very hard time accelerating. I'm thinking that I've plugged up my cat by dumping so much fuel in to it and the hesitation is caused by a lack of breathing - does this sound possible? How would I confirm this without replacing the cat? Anything else I should look for? I'm fairly confident I have combustion in all 8 cylinders now so I'm leaning towards intake/exhaust issues.
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Last night when I started my car before heading home from work I noticed that the engine clunked a couple of times, as if it were slowly combustion or back firing in two cylinders. The car started up fine; however, I've never heard the engine do that before. I don't know if it is because it has been cold up here the last few days (-12C (10F) day time highs) or if there's something else wrong. My EGT has just under 60,000km (37,200mi).
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2000 PASSAT 1.8t. As u pull out the key out of the ignition key chamber, u should here a click sound. That I believe signals the car that the key has been pulled out of the ignition key chamber. Well I don't hear the click sound anymore when the key is pulled out of the ignition key chamber and as a result, the car thinks the key is still is the ignition chamber, alarm does not work, radio stays on after key is out, I have to manually lock and unlock car. I think the key chamber has a pin that did not set right when I pulled the key out. I think some thing is stuck . Tired spraying WD40 into the key chamber with no results.
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I have a 2009 Ford Focus. The ignition key can not enter the steering column cylinders unless the key is jiggled with a far amount of pushing. I took the car to the dealership in the late Fall and they replaced the ignition cylinder. This worked fine until Spring when the outside temperature got above 75 F.
I have tried using the extra key and it also will not be permitted to enter the cylinder except with a great amount of key jiggling. This problem only occurs when it is above 75 F, it is not a problem for 6 months of the year; but, I am concerned that sometime I won't be able to get the car started.
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I bought a used 2011 corolla from a dealer 15 days ago and found a leak at the bottom of the engine. It is not dripping but i can see "wet" area at the bottom of the engine...near the oil pressure switch. Is it possible that the switch is faulty or there could be other reason? Facing the front the leaks can be seen at the bottom of the either side of the engine. I have some images, but not sure how to share on this platform.
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I have an 2011 f350 6.7 diesel. The glow plug ruptured causing damage to the chambers. I recently bought a new 2014 6.7 diesel engine had this motor installed. When I received the truck back it shifts 1,2, 3 gear and jumps to 6.
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The spark plug in chamber 2 blew off while the vehicle was in motion (approx 35 mph). Purchased replacement plugs and when I went to install, there was nothing for the plug to grab (i.e. appears that all of the threads on the block/casing are gone . Not sure what my options are.
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I have a 1989 GMC suburban V8 350 5.7l that will not start. I have replace the following fuel pump and sending unit, fuel pump relay, ECM computer brand new, new fuel filter. When I go to start it the fuel injectors dont spray fuel into the combustion chambers verified fuel injectors still work by bypassing them and they spray fuel. Fuse's are not blown. I have been told the oil pressure switch might be bad but I'm at my end of sanity on this.
Additional Details : Tried spraying fuel into the throttle body and still no fire, ignition module and ignition coil where replaced 15,000miles ago.
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Its not the spark plugs or the coil. What else?
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Just today I acquired a 2005 Prius (trim level 1... so no options at all) in exchange for a cruddy old Ram truck and a dying Avalon. They had issues, but so does the Prius. The car has around 218K on it, I just replaced the spark plugs with NGK iridium plugs, cleaned the MAF, sort of cleaned the throttle body a little bit, and even swapped the coils around to see if the misfire would change. I also gave the car a new air filter.
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I bought an 07 gen 2 a couple weeks ago. A couple days after I got it home the check engine light came on. I did a scan, it came up, misfire on cyl
1. I installed new iridium plugs, switched the no. 1 igniter with no.
2... code came back misfire cyl 1 again.
I then did an ohm check on the injectors which were all spot on, then ran the engine and listened with a stethoscope to number 1 injector and could hear it clicking. Next thing I threw a can of Seafoam into the gas, drove that tank out and then threw a can of injector cleaner into the next tank... I forget the brand.. it's that stuff they've been selling for a hundred years that has MEK in it.
Anyway... I cleared the CEL and it's been a couple days and about 50 or 60 miles without a re-occurrence. I'm wondering if this is a common problem with prius's? (I know... but I refuse to use the word Prii... it just bothers me) Because the engine is always under such a light load, I'd think it would be prone to carboning up and such. Also... if this light comes back I'm thinking the next thing I'll do is switch number 1 and 2 injectors to see if the problem follows it.
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I have a 2005 Prius with 135K miles on it. and last time I change my PCV was 55K. today, my car is misfiring in cylinder. My mon has a Nissa Altima and did not change PCV since day one and one of the Cylinder was misfiring one year ago. My brother change the PCV valve for the Nissan and reset the ECU and no more misfiring. I am wondering if I should also change the PCV valve for the Prius to fix the misfiring issue. and Why is a bad PCV valve cause misfiring.
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I readied my Prius and was backing out my driveway. The ICE started and was misfiring very badly, sounded like it was barely running, making all kinds of clatter.
I stopped, put the car in park, and the idle was very rough, sounded like it was trying to clear itself from being flooded. There were no warning lights or blinking check engine lights, so I drove off.
Heres where things get freaky. If I accelerated any more than 1/4 of the gas pedal, the car would buck and the ICE would shut off completely. Then when I let go of the gas, the ICE would start back up. If i feathered the gas lightly, the ICE would stay running. After the car warmed up, this behavior disappeared.
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I bought my 2010 Prius IV Solar/Nav pkg in Febrary 2011. I've got just over 10k on the odometer. Aside from the persistent rattle/clatter/clank noise over bumps that these cars seem to be famous for, I've had no issues. That is, until last Thursday. The temps here in Indiana have dropped substantially so I was driving in town with the windows down, sunroof open. About two miles after leaving the office, I turned a corner and the car suddenly seemed like it went from running on 4cyl to running on 2 cyl. No warning lights came up on the dash, but the car was definitely shuddering/struggling to pick up speed, and was obviously running very rough. It felt worse when I was accelerating, but I think it may have even been doing it when I let off the accelerator.
This continued for approximately two or three blocks until I parked the car & powered down. After debating what to do (call a tow truck, confer with SafetyConnect, etc.) I decided to try & move the car again. Of course, it was as if nothing had happened. No warning lights were on & the car seemed to be performing normally. Since then, I've had no issues.
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Ok after finding out I had a bad battery @ Toyota shop they also say the scan is reading an exhaust leak ( I could hear that one ) they also say there is a misfire on cold starts should I worry and what could it be or is it a misread from the other two ?
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My Prius is in better condition than when I started, the following condition remains a mystery.
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