I recently picked up an 05 that now has about 101k miles on it. When coming to a stop if I put my foot on the brake and hold a steady pressure the car increases the braking pressure drastically once it's under 10 mph and the car jerks you forward unless you let off of the brake. I know its because its going from using the regen to using 100% disc pressure so what can I do to fix it?
View 9 RepliesI purchased a 2009 Hyundai Accent Automatic with less than 50000 Miles. I recently had to replace spark plug connector due to rats. Now, having issues with getting it to drive in the mornings. Description;I let the car warm up about 2 minutes before putting it in drive. Once I let my foot off of the brake the car begins to jolt forward and won't stop until I put my foot back on the brake. Even while holding the brake the car jolts but won't go forward. I have to put the car back in Park before it will stop. This goes on for about 15 to 20 minutes. Then, as if there were never any problems, the car drives as it is supposed to. *I have turned the car off and restarted but the car still jolts forward until it decides not to.I have checked the transmission fluid and it doesn't appear dirty but maybe low. Would low transmission fluid level cause this type of behavior? I am on a budget and a huge transmission bill is not really something I can afford right now. But I need to be able to get to work everyday. I can't imagine that the transmission is going up when the car has less than 50000 miles on it. I've had it since the middle of January.
View 4 RepliesI have a gen2 2007 prius (right hand drive). Problem I am having is [INTERMITTENT]when pressing the ignition button to turn off the car. When I press the button the system completely shuts down instantly and rather roughly and nothing is active (the Key is still in). I then remove the key and the system starts up! I then press the button to stop the system, put the key back in and restart it. It then works fine - until the next time. Clock resets itself as does the climate controls. Not sure what to make of this. I have just recently replaced the 12v battery in the boot.
PS. Forgot to mention that when the system goes dead, if I fold down back seat and thump the floor panel above the battery under the seat the system goes on?? Any clues. Will take it to mechanic as soon as he gets back from holiday!
I was wondering if this problem is the "Barking" noise that keeps coming up the search or is it another problem. I will include a link to the video down below.
To start off, the Prius is 2010 Prius II and has 120k miles on it. Great Car. Only other problem was AC compressor dying at 90k.
The chirping noise happens when the brake pedal is pressed and does not go away until the release the pedal. It makes the noise regardless of whether the car is on or off.
It makes the noise when the car is stopped and or when the mechanical brake engage at between 0 and 6 mph.
Noise does not occur when the brake switch is removed. Not valid solution since the brake lights will stay on. It does not affect the performance of braking.
Here is the link to the video .... .... ....
Today I faced another problem i just try to start my car but, due the dead 12v battery it didn't start so i pressed the BRAKE PEDAL until it reach the bottom, again i tried to press but its not going to the bottom why was that, is it due to dead battery? And last time i called an automobile expertise to jump start my car. They check the voltage with a digital multi-meter and he said me if you jump start even you will get this problem again until u replace the new battery. but i said him it doesn't matter do a jump start and finally it was ok . Now again I faced the same problem and this time i am going to change the battery.
View 1 RepliesWhile pressing the brake, the green light never comes on. The car is less than two weeks old and this is happening.
View 19 RepliesI have an 88 Chevy C1500. It started showing low oil pressure about a year ago and I went with a heavier oil and oil pressure go a bit better.
Just changed the oil and now, when I start the engine cold, I show normal oil pressure. As the engine temp increases, the oil pressure goes down. When engine is fully warm, oil pressure shows 0 and "check gauges" light comes on.
Decided to put even heavier oil in but guy at parts house said it was probably the sending unit, not a worn out engine. I tend to agree because I drove it more and never hear any ticking or valve noise. Too cheap to replace the sending unit.
From the symptoms above, does thus sound right? Could the sensor somehow fail as engine temperature increases? Everything I read says oil pump failure is very rare.
My 2000 B5 1.8t began getting the Low Oil Pressure warning light over the winter, and has gotten progressively worse. I added a mechanical oil pressure gauge and I'm seeing about 20 psi on a cold engine at idle. If I rev to ~2500 the pressure DROPS to between 5 and 10 (and triggers the STOP! light).
I tried a bottle of autoRX, but probably too late- I could only run about 200 miles before the STOP! light wouldn't allow me to get out of the driveway.
What might cause the pressure to DROP as engine speed increases? a Clogged screen or worn pump possibly? It would be nice if it was something I could correct without pulling the engine (but I'm not expecting that).
I have only 42k km or 26 k miles. Brake stops but soft. The brake pedal sink if you apply pressure after a stop. Feels like someone open a valve. The pedal go to very low. I am find the stopping power is poor. Brake fluid is brownish. I hope it is not the master cylinder.
View 20 RepliesIf your Gen2 Prius Big Red Triangle is flashing intermittently (especially while cornering / braking) this is a reminder to pull into the first gas station you see, check the engine oil and add enough oil to bring it up close to the full line.
Most likely you have only a quart or less of oil in your engine and your engine has excessive oil consumption issues.
The damage is done and it will continue to burn oil so check it often and carry extra oil in your trunk.
We have a new 2015 Prius with 6k on it and we are noticing one solid brief single click when the brake pedal is pressed and/or released. It doesn't happen every time (just some of the time) but it is only noticeable at slow speeds.
View 19 RepliesWhen coming to a hard stop and downshifting using engine braking, is it normal to have the brake pedal feel like it loses pressure to where the brake pedal pushes down further towards the floor for a split second? What causes that to occur?
View 10 RepliesBraking at a stoplight tonight, I had the VSC and ABS light come on. I pulled over to a parking lot and shut the car down. I couldn't tell any issues with the brakes at all in the short few hundred feet I drove to pull off. Turned it back on and the lights were no longer on.
View 8 RepliesThe noise is not the usual vibrate noise that happens.
The Noise: As I brake harder to the final stop I hear a grind/bump noise. It is hard to describe. It is abrupt and quick. I don't believe it affects the braking just annoying and doesnt sound normal.
I've been noticing that when I brake more responsively, I feel a bump/notch right before a complete stop. It feels like something that has to do with the transmission.
View 6 RepliesI own a 04 Grand Cherokee and have recently had problems with my passenger side brake light. Now the light itself does work under normal running light conditions, but when I go to press the brake pedal it doesn't engage the bright brake light. Drivers side works fine and so do all my other lights, I replaced the bulb to no avail, and am now currently looking into replacing the bulb socket.
View 1 RepliesMy '10 is just over 2 years old now and virtually trouble-free. But since new, I have a noticeable turbine/whining sound slowing to a stop esp while braking from 20mph to a stop. I wrote it off to the motor generator and brake regeneration - hybrid sounds. All fine and well. But I have ridden in two other '10s in the last year and they both seem to make less sounds while decelerating and braking than mine. Is it my imagination or is there something to it? I'd rather not blindly bring it to the Dealer as I'm sure it would get a "normal operation" finding.
1. Is there a TSB out on this by chance?
2. My 3/36 warranty will be up in 10 months. Is there a master TSB listing available on PChat or elsewhere (for free) to check on open G3 Prius TSBs?
Just bought a L/Certified pre-owned 2013 ES 350. I am shocked at how much the car vibrates and noise increases when stopped at a light or stop sign. I tried a 2015 ES 350 and the same thing occurs!! The dealership technician says everything is operating "to specification". This is a disgrace for such a high-tech, luxury car.
View 14 RepliesI have never experienced what others have described as the brake delay issue, neither before nor after the ABS recall. I have even purposely driven over rough patches of road to try to duplicate.
After two days of rain, I noticed yesterday that my brake rotors were rusty. I remembered a comment from qbee42 about putting the car in neutral while braking in order to remove regenerative braking and to force friction braking to clean rusty rotors.
Yesterday I was approaching a stop light with plenty of distance and no one in front. I started braking around 45 mph with regenerative braking and then pulled the shift lever to neutral. When in neutral and with the regenerative braking removed, I felt the decrease in braking when transitioning to friction braking and I had to brake a little harder in order to have the same amount of braking as before in regenerative braking.
I can see where someone can "perceive" this as a surge forward but I only interpreted this as a decrease in braking force, as others have stated here many times.
I tried this again at the next stop light and felt the same "sensation" again and had to brake slightly harder when in neutral in order to have the same braking force. It was apparent to me that for the same brake pedal position that the friction brakes do not exert as much braking force as the same pedal position with regenerative braking.
Is this similar to what others are reporting as "brake delay" or "surge forward" issues?
I have a 2009 Prius with 73,000.I turned on my Prius after a quick stop at a drug store today to find my brake light and ABS warning lights on. In addition, braking was rough. I have to step on the brake much soon and "deeper" to stop. After a quick search of the net I learned I wasn't alone. Here are the codes I received-
C1241- I just replaced my 12v battery about 1 1/2 years ago so I'm confused about 1241. I checked the levels. The are normal. The battery showed levels of 14 to 14.1v throughout the test. Maybe I don't understand the code?
C1247- Stroke Sensor
C1377- Capacitor malfunction
Before I take my car to Toyota, I would like your opinion on what actually works to correct the problem. I cleared the codes and the car works fine right now. If I continue to clear the codes will the car work? I searched the forum the one person seems to believe the to repair replacing Stroke sensor is the best/only fix.
I have a 2007 Prius gen II with 50,000 miles on it. I took it for MOT ministry of transport annual test and it failed on rear brakes. The near side puled 82kg the off side puled 242kg I puled the pads and copper slipped the pads and sliders the piston pushed bake with ease reassembled them and re tested them witch increased the near side by 5kg. How did you rectify it.
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