Prius (Gen 2) :: Brake Caliper Replaced Now Won't Go Into Gear
Mar 13, 2015
My wife was complaining about a metallic scraping noise that was coming from the driver side front wheel. I listened to it and couldn't determine what it was or see any evidence of something loose. I took off the wheel and had a look at the components and after 160K miles, it looked like the pads could use replacing. It didn't seem like that was the root of the sound, but it looked like they needed to be done.
I got the parts for both sides and replaced the left without issue, but when I got to the right side, I found the source of the noise: a pebble between the rotor and dust shield. I continued on with the brake replacement and the caliper piston was stuck. Tried a couple of things to free it and blew out the piston.
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one of my f350 super duties has had the right rear brake caliper and slider replaced 4 times in less than a year. it has just gone for the fourth time today. i called ford who, after a long phone call, said it could be the metering valve. i have looked everywhere for this valve.....no luck. so i called them back and he said it was part of the HCU. after a few minutes, he finally told me it was also called the ABS module.
my question is..........can i just replace this metering valve or do i have to replace the whole unit?
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I have a 2007 Prius gen II with 50,000 miles on it. I took it for MOT ministry of transport annual test and it failed on rear brakes. The near side puled 82kg the off side puled 242kg I puled the pads and copper slipped the pads and sliders the piston pushed bake with ease reassembled them and re tested them witch increased the near side by 5kg. How did you rectify it.
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One of the pistons in my driver side (UK) front brake caliper is sticking, so I've bought a second hand caliper just to fix the problem until I come to sell my pri in a month or so.
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I have a leak from the rear driver caliper, it seems to come from behind the bolts that hold the emergency brake to the caliper (I had my wife push the pedal repeatedly so I could find the issue). I haven't been able to remove the retaining bolts (the allen head bolt doesn't want to play) to see what the issue might be.
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I have a 07 gs430 front caliper bolt strip and the caliper nut strip. What can I do? the bolt a 12mm 1.25 ,the tread is strip bad.. can I replace that part..? the nut on the caliper?
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Just replaced 12 volt battery from a dealer nearby. Got it in OK, but my "!", ABS, and VSC and Brake lights are still on. Pads and shoes look fine. Is there a reset button or mode for these lights. I was under the impression that the display voltage test of 9 volts (dying battery) was causing the lights to come on. Just want to make sure there is no reset on the lights (like after an oil change) before I move on to other testing or the mechanic. The other symptom I've had along with these lights is the yellow arrows coming from the battery don't stop when I come to a stop. I have to put in neutral or park to get them to stop not matter how hard I press on the brake. This happened a couple years ago, along with the lights above, but went away. I wrote it off at the time to a bad connection somewhere.
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Yesterday the check engine light came on in my 2006 Prius. I took it to the dealer, and they said that the camshaft gear and valve cover need to be replaced. Specifically, the diagnostic report says "P0011. Camshaft position A timing over. Advanced or system performance bank 1. Pin point check LED to CUV gear not switching."
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Last Spring, my 2007 Camry Hybrid (54k miles back then, now at 62k) developed an obnoxious squeal coming out of the left rear wheel while driving at highway speeds. It takes several minutes at this speed to make the sound, so I believe wheel temperature triggers the sound. Touching the brake would temporarily silence it. After parking the car, I discovered that the left rear wheel was very warm, while the others were cool. I also saw excessive brake dust on the wheel.
I pulled the wheel to inspect. and saw that the track of the brake pad had moved a millimeter or two up the disk, so now part of the pad was over the "rusty" portion of the disk. The rusty, unworn part of the disc was thicker, so the part of the pad that was now over it was rubbing. At higher speeds, the rubbing would heat up the wheel and I'd gradually get the loud squeal.
I dismantled the pad, cleaned it, tightened the mounting brackets (via slight bending) and put it all back together. This solved the problem for 8 months. It just came back to haunt me on a recent highway trip...
It's a pain to take it all apart, especially if I am only temporarily fixing the issue. The pads still have over 85% live (including the rubbing one) and the disks look great on all wheels with no vibrations.
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I've searched, but nothing came up. I want to remove the brake calipers (unbolt from the rotors) for cleaning and painting. I need confirmation that the fronts are just two 17mm bolts on the back of the caliper that is holding it? I tried earlier but it was right after a drive so car was hot and the bolts seemed like they were secured on tightly. I will try again this weekend. Btw. I have a 350 f sport
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Noticed blue calipers losing their color? Specifically looking like they have a dull coat of wax on them that doesn't come off with normal washing.
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I've run into a problem while doing brakes on my friends 2005 Sebring. I can't seem to get the brake caliper off. There is a little rubber boot with a plastic cap that is where the bolts that hold the calipers in place are. How to get the bolts out to remove the caliper. In fact, it doesn't seem like there are any traditional bolt heads in the plastic cover.
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Today, as i had my car in the repair shop for a checkup i got a horrible message. The rear caliper/hand brake motor (?) is leaking brake fluid. Replacing this is close to 1500$ (I live in Norway) So my question is: Is there any way to stop the leak without replacing the whole thing? Also, i suspect the leak is minor as the brake fluid is almost on "max". So, if it doesn't really leak a whole lot, do i really need to do anything about it? I mean, if i have to refill the fluid container every six months its much cheaper.
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Yesterday (well for a while, but yesterday was bad) I had some brake issues, turns out the passenger side front caliper went bad (corroded, doesn't retract) so I need to get another one. Only place I saw Red caliper for my jazz blue for sale was on ecstuning and that was 189. Seems a little steep so I was wondering if there are any other places who sell the Red OEM calipers. If not I might just go through ecs.
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I'm working on a 2007 Camry and I had the wheel bearings pressed in & out at a shop. I put everything back together but the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper bracket. And there is no air gap between the rotor and bracket so it can spin freely without rubbing. The passenger side is fine, there is a little air gap so the rotor can move freely without rubbing. I don't understand why the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper? I checked everything over, the pads and rotor are the correct ones. I also took the pass side caliper bracket and installed it on the driver side and same thing, the rotor still rubs against the bracket.
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What is the proper procedure in changing the brake pads without unbolting the caliper?
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I'm having a tough time separating the brass fitting, even using a 10mm wrench. I noticed it moves below the bracket, so I'm trying to hold the oval with square corner base on the hose itself, but even then, have started to round the corners on the brass nut.
I'm gonna continue with the job, leaving the old hose, and will have to come back to this later, because I'm installing a new caliper (old one froze, and I just found out why, broken lower slide).
Any trick to separating the fitting between steel brake line and rubber?
ETA, to replace the brass fitting, does it mean cutting the tube, inserting another fitting, and flaring the end? I hate to leave the old hose or a rounded nut.
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Started to change front pads and rotors on my GX470, but couldn't get the caliper bolts loose. Is it safe to use a torch to heat up the area around the bolts so I can loosen the bolts? Any other way to break these bolts free?
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I need to do a brake job on the front of my 04 Elantra, how to reset the caliper piston. I've tried the traditional c-clamp method but can't get the clamp to grip well on the non-pad side because of the caliper shape.
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I haven't had luck trying to find the torque specs for the caliper bolts on my 2010 ES350. What are the correct numbers? a pdf diagram would be very useful.
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My caliper gets seized when I disengage the emergency brake.
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