Prius (Gen 2) :: Battery Replaced, Car Is Going Harder / Heater Varies Heat
Mar 16, 2011
I bought my 2006 Prius a little over a year ago from a Toyota dealer in the area, and within the first month I had a strange occurrence. I got into my car, pressed the power button to start the car and everything on the dashboard lit up, the power button flashed amber, the clock's numbers were just barely visible, and the car wouldn't start. Frantic that no matter what I did (shut it off, took the keys out, and tried again several times with the same results), I called the dealer who sold me the car and just as he was about to send out a tow truck to get me, I tried it one last time and it started. I took it directly to the dealership, they inspected it, and came back with the response of 'there's nothing wrong with it, I don't know why it did that. If it happens again, come back again.' No charge and supposedly no problem, I let it go.
Well, exactly 1 year later (to the day) and suddenly it happens again. So I take it to the dealer again. They checked the battery in the back and now they're telling me it's a bad battery cell. They insist the two incidents are completely unrelated. I left to go to class that night and had no more issues that day. But now I have a car that's been getting harder and harder to start. The power button doesn't even light up green anymore. I've noticed that I have issues when I open my door and the alarm goes off like I've left the key in the ignition, but I haven't. I knew when I opened the door yesterday and the alarm sounded that I was going to have issues. Sure enough, the car wouldn't turn on, and after two tries, it became completely unresponsive.
Which battery has the bad cell? They tested in the back, where the hybrid battery is. Also, it seems like there's something more serious than just the battery, considering I've read the manual a zillion and one times since I first had issues in hopes of trying to figure out what's been going on. The power button, like I said, flashes amber when it turns on, then disappears once it's on, but there is no green light instead.
Also, I've been getting repeatedly worse and worse gas mileage since the fall, the last fill only lasting me 350 miles or so with an mpg average of 34.6. I know it's winter and that the Prius typically gets worse gas mileage in the winter due to the heater being on. But the funny thing is, I don't drive with the heater on, even through the winter. I only use the heater when I need to defrost a window or I have company in my car because I like the cold. However, I got stuck on the I-90 for about 9 hours in the beginning of December and I noticed then that the heaters for the feet was varying how much air was blowing out of them after a few hours, and ever since then it's had the same problem. I figured it might have been a need to change the cabin air filters, but now I'm wondering if it points to something else...
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2000 Expedition. Had ford mechanic replace front heater core due to not having heat in the front and back. wife brings it home I check all vents and notice there's good heat up front but not the back, then I switch the rear from panel to floor heat and hear a thumping sound (figure the blend door is doing it) still no heat in rear. returned to ford mechanic and they stated my blender door switch is not working properly, so they flushed out rear core and instead of fixing the blender door switch they kept it on floor position and charged me another bill. could it be possible that while replacing front core the gunk made it to the rear hoses and core, and clogged it up, and damaged the blender door switch somehow. prior to my heat issues I never had any problems with the rear blender door, just no heat due to front core needing replaced according to them "FORD".
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the only thing that is left to replace would be the radiator?my truck is a 1994 f150 and it is not overheating!i get lukewarm heat only on the highway,everywhere else it is cold air!!this new england weather is killing me
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My 2005 Honda Civic has just started doling out heat when it feels like it regardless of where I set the dial. It seem that when I am accelerating or applying gas, heat is available but when I am stopped at a light or coasting downhill, cold air is all that is available. Is this a thermostat issue or something more dire?
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My 2010 with 130,000 miles has no heat. I had it flushed at the dealer and recall work done last June as part of the maintenance sched and did not try to use the heat until a few weeks ago. I have taken it to the dealer twice. They have in order bled the coolant system, replaced the coolant and then changed the thermostat at the second visit. The catch is that each time they have done this the heat returns and by the next day or so the heat is gone--It has not been very cold yet so we have not needed to use the heat every day. I am wondering if the system is hard to bleed?
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07 Prius has 188,000 miles on it. Inverter Pump replaced 10/2011. At that time, dealer recommended "replace Heater Pump-making noise and pending code." I have not done this repair yet. In 12/2012, the heater is no longer operating instantly and takes about 10 miles to heat up and occasionally acts up and supplies heat intermittently. About a month ago, the Check Engine Light came on. I noticed that when I re-screwed my gas cap on, that light would go off. About 2 weeks later, light stayed on continually so I replaced gas cap. Light still will not go off and I have driven it 6 times on trips more than 40 miles each.
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I have a Prius for a company car. They have replaced the battery twice now and the thing only has 44000 miles on it. Got in it again after leaving an account this morning and it would not start. I let it sit about twenty minutes then it started. All my radio stations go out and every day I have to reset the clock. They have sent it in twice now and cannot find an issue but it keeps happening. Today was the fourth time in less than two months.
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I just replaced my battery and am wondering if by doing that my the system that counts 5000 miles until next oil change reset. My clock, radio stations, the consumption (miles since last fill up) all reset, so I'm wondering if the count to 5000 reset also. The odometer did not reset though, and the gas tank amount was correct. Just wondering because I didn't write down when my last oil change was.
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I recently replaced the battery in my key fob, just as a preventive maintenance measure. All worked fine for the first couple days.
Now, when exiting the car I push down on the door lock inside the door, get out and the doors unlock immediately. Only way to lock the car is to press the lock symbol on the fob. Touching the handle no longer works to open it. I must use the fob. The button beneath the steering column is in the correct position.
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Bought a 2010 Prius V new and have put 100K on it since Sept. 2009. About 9 months ago, the 12v battery died. I ordered a Yellow Top replacement from Amazon, charged and installed it. Six weeks later, the new battery's died. I charged it again and suspected the engine's wasn't charging the battery. I took it to Toyota for an electrical checkup and they say all is fine. Six weeks later, the battery's dead again.
This time, the charger says it has a dead cell and won't take a charge. Amazon replaces the battery for free. The cycle repeats three more times and again, dead cell. This time I go to Toyota and buy their expensive battery. The cycle continued four more times (although I haven't had a dead cell indication). I've been back to Toyota for follow-up twice and each time they say there's nothing wrong with the car. The last time they told me we weren't driving it enough to charge the battery but I know that's because we take several 150 miles trips every other week or so (plus daily commuting time).
I'm thinking there's something that's causing a slow drain and wondering if it could be the digital system that keeps your inside lights on after you exit the vehicle and then slowly dims them, only it's not going completely off due to age.
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I have replaced the Traction battery AND the 12volt battery. I clear all codes by disconnecting the 12 volt battery for a short period of time. I reconnect 12v battery and no warning lights. I drive for 10 miles and RED TRIANGLE, Check Engine and the Brake lights also come on the dash. 2006 Prius 130K miles.
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Purchased an 04 Prius with 140k miles and bad HV battery. Used torque app and pulled original codes for bad HV battery. I was able to drive/limp the car home for tear down and replacement. After installing a used HV battery that had 80k from and 08 car. It will start but shutdown after a few seconds. I was able to put it in to drive and move it but it still dies. Energy display shows no battery status and now I get the connect to air conditioner communication warning. The battery's are reading 15.2 volts each from the torque app these are read in pairs so seeing 14 readings all within .1v of each other. I am not getting any codes from the computer.
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I have a 2005 Prius recently replaced the hybrid battery. Not so happy with it, my mpg b4 was 49-51 mpg, now I only get 40-45 mpg. I notice the car is a little weaker and the ICE rev higher everytime I accelerate.
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2005 Prius I picked up a few weeks ago decided to eat both of it's batteries for lunch and leave me high and dry. I replaced the aux battery yesterday which I was lucky to get at cost at the toyota dealer since the aux battery was original. Put it in and all was well with the car for the rest of the day. Got in it today and headed out and was welcomed with the big stupid "!" triangle, the regen brake warning, check engine light, "PROBLEM" written on the display with a picture of a "!" inside a car outline, and some severely reduced performance. So I looked online and found a place with a bunch of low mileage batteries out of smashed up 2009's.
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My car started giving me trouble I ran the scan tool and it told me that cell 6 was bad on my battery. I replaced the cell and put the battery back in now the check engine light is on and the problem triangle is on and the car wont start and only shifts into neutral but when I check for codes i get nothing .
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I have a 2008 Prius, MFD died one day, screen completely dark and all buttons on it are unresponsive. I used a voltmeter to check the 12v battery which had troubles last winter (had to jump it once) and it was at about 10.6v so I just replaced it with an Optima battery. Sadly the MFD is still blank.
The MFD actually came on for a second a couple weeks ago which led me to believe it was still functional and just not getting enough power from a failing 12v.
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I have a recently purchased 2005 Prius- Mileage-150.3k having several lights on the dash: ABS/VSC/Engine Check/ Brakes, etc. See attached screen shot. Initially, I got into the shop and had the codes read out several codes. In all, I was informed the root cause was a bad 12v and bad hybrid batteries. By this time , the car was still moving, though not very smoothly. however, less than a week thereafter, the car couldn't start again.
We decided to replace the 12v first, hoping to get it back to start but it wouldn't. I've checked the fuses in the engine compartment as well as on the steering column- all okay. I've checked battery voltage, it's now at 12.3v. When I try to start, the Ready light would simply flash for 2-3 seconds before going off. I've rechecked battery connections as well as the brake controls by the 12v battery- all well tightened.
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I've attached some pictures of what it looks like. Sometimes there are no lines and just black but the display button still overlaps. Everything else seems to be working. I think this happened when I got the 12v battery replaced. I am also not sure I have a nav dvd. How do you eject those DVDs?
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As our Pri age, sooner or later the 12 v battery will fail and at exactly the wrong time. So perhaps preventive maintenance means replacing it just before failure. What has been the experience of other owners of 2010's as far as failure goes?
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I purchased a 2005 Prius with 54k miles with a rebuilt title July 2011. About a month after I purchased it (from a private seller) I started to hear a slight grinding noise. It turned out it was the transmission/transaxle. I drove it for about 4 more months since I knew I had to replace the trans anyway. Next, I sourced a used transmission from the guy I purchased the car from. I installed the trans myself. But, it wouldn't run right at all afterward... it wouldn't go over 5mph and it would jerk. I took it to a Toyota shop and was told that it now had a dead 12v battery and HV battery.
I had both replaced. It still had the same issue with drivability. I took it to the dealership for a proper diagnosis and was told the transmission was the issue. So, I purchased another used transmission and installed it. I was very careful to make sure everything was installed correctly. So, now the car won't drive at all or even go into park. Attached is a picture of the current screen, which says "The transmission 'P' lock mechanism is abnormal. Park your car at a flat place and apply the parking brake completely." So, did I get another bad transaxle?
As I see it - my choices are
1) put in another used transmission, which I could do (3rd time is a charm) ,
2) spend more money to diagnose the car again or
3) sell it as is and get nothing for the car
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