Prius (Gen 2) :: Battery At The Lowest Bar / Warning Lights Came On
Jul 17, 2011
Tonight I was driving home and the warning light came on. Thursday I was driving and noticed that the power lurched a few times. I switched over to see the energy usage and noticed that the battery was at the lowest bar. It stayed there for about 10 minutes. I called the dealer and started to head there. As I was talking the bars began to rise. It has seemed fine for the last few days until the lights came on tonight. I had just put gas in it. However, the car seems to run just fine and the traction battery seems to be charging just fine. There was no loss of power. Here in Texas it has been over 100 degrees for many days. I had an oil change at the dealer 10 days ago.
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I have my 2004 Prius in the shop for a replacement of the HV battery pack. The car has approx. 120,00 miles on it.
The battery failed with all the lights, warning symbols etc. I just got a call from the dealership that its going to take longer than expected to get the car back to me. They have the battery pack replacement, but when doing the replacement, they noticed that the cables were "corroded." The cables for the battery need to be replaced before they will complete the repair. But the cables need to be ordered and won't be in soon.
Is this common? for these cables to corrode? Would this problem have caused the HV battery failure?
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I have replaced the Traction battery AND the 12volt battery. I clear all codes by disconnecting the 12 volt battery for a short period of time. I reconnect 12v battery and no warning lights. I drive for 10 miles and RED TRIANGLE, Check Engine and the Brake lights also come on the dash. 2006 Prius 130K miles.
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I have a 2007 Prius with 92000 miles. All dashboard warning lights lit up the other day. Had it towed to the Toyota dealer and they first replaced the HV ECU. Now they are saying the traction battery needs to be replaced. They have had the car several days but they put me in a free rental.
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2005 Prius I picked up a few weeks ago decided to eat both of it's batteries for lunch and leave me high and dry. I replaced the aux battery yesterday which I was lucky to get at cost at the toyota dealer since the aux battery was original. Put it in and all was well with the car for the rest of the day. Got in it today and headed out and was welcomed with the big stupid "!" triangle, the regen brake warning, check engine light, "PROBLEM" written on the display with a picture of a "!" inside a car outline, and some severely reduced performance. So I looked online and found a place with a bunch of low mileage batteries out of smashed up 2009's.
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I have a 2007 Prius. We left for vacation for 2 weeks. Came home. Started the car and then all the lights came home. I thought the battery must have drained. But the lights are all on with a new battery. Is there a way to clear all these?
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Gen II Prius, 151000 miles, HV battery died (rapid charging / discharging, cooling fan on high constantly, etc) Installed remanufactured HV battery. Connect it all back up, test drive, get the triangle of death, VSC, amber (!), and MIL on MFD. Car continues to drive normally until shutdown, upon next startup lights still present and won't shift into D or R only N. Pull codes, POAA6 is showing.
Code doesn't reset with car in ign on (not ready) after 60 seconds, make car ready and shift immediately to N. Code resets after 30 sec. Have done this trouble shooting 4 times and code always resets with ready on and in N. This points to the HV 'leak' being either in the wiring harness or the inverter. What I can do next in order to figure out which one?
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My 2007 Prius suddenly lost power and all lights on the dash board light up. I had a "problem" error as well. Eventually a message came up stating there was a transmission P lock mechanism problem.
Long story short, realized the 12volt was dead and replaced it. However, the car is still not running after replacing the battery. It went once around the block fine, and then the same thing happened with all the lights (check engine, VSC, brake system, and !) and P lock mechanism warning. Disconnected the battery for 15 minutes and tried again. No luck.
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A year and a half ago, I had the hybrid battery warning lights come on and had it towed to the dealer. After given the option of replacing the battery for $4300, I took it home and did a single cell replacement (all cells ~8V, one at 6.6V which I replaced), which seemed to be all good until yesterday. Back with the warning lights and blower fan, I jumped to the conclusion that I have a similar situation, removed the battery and all cells are 8.04V +/- .05V except for 1 cell at 7.92. I am not convinced that this cell is really the culprit.
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2006 Toyota Prius 93000 miles
On 3/8/13 my Prius would not start. I read some information online and came to the conclusion I needed a new battery.
I started the car, and it immediately started up. I drove it for a very short time and parked it in the garage.
Today I started the car and drove it for about 5 minutes to a restaurant. I did some shopping and about 3 hours later I started the car and A Big Red Triangle appeared along with a yellow circle with an exclamation point in the center and the check engine light.
I immediately drove it to the Toyota Dealer 5 blocks away.
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I had noticed a drop in MPG in the last month (more than normal this time of year), so I started searching on PC. That lead me to testing my 12V battery 4 days ago, with the following results:
No load: 11.8V
Load: 11.5V
Charge: 14.2V
Car started and ran fine, but since the battery is the original on my 2006 with just under 130,000 miles on it, I figured I'd get a new 12V the next time there was a good deal at Advance Auto. No other symptoms until today. After driving around 150 miles on Saturday, the car sat for 3-1/2 days in 25-40 degree temperatures. Started and ran fine today. Did a 5 mile trip, followed by a 1/2 mile trip, followed by a 5 mile trip home.
On the way home, the car lit up like a Christmas tree (appropriate for this time of year). Master warning light, brake system light (yellow; not red), check engine light, VSC light, hybrid system light (no ABS light). Turned it off and restarted and the VSC wasn't lit, but everything else still was.
More info... I finally got around to disabling the back-up beep, and the driver side seat belt warning yesterday, which may have run the 12V down even more.
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Well all the lights are on for mine as well as of 2 days ago... checked the 12v, was at 11.8v, tested under accessories load (without engine on) and went to 11.4v then tested with the car on and we're at 14.2v
So just to be safe I went ahead and got a NEW 12v and installed it yesterday. All the lights went away immediately. Drove 30 minutes to the town over after the install... fine.... it sat off for about 1 hour.... drove it back home another 30... perfectly fine.
This morning the wife takes it to work, starts the car, all the lights on again... turns it off completely, then turns it back on and all the lights are off and then drove it to work just fine.
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I bought a 2006 Prius with a diagnosed bad battery and tons of warning lights lit on the dash. Toyota had diagnosed a bad hybrid batt and ECU. (I have not replaced the ECU). The car was driving and running fine otherwise.
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I own a 2005 Prius with 233K miles. I got the terrible red triangle of death and several other warning lights. Had the codes checked out at Toyota and confirmed a bad HV battery. I am kinda handy and I replaced it myself. No big job, it took about two hours, most of which was spent removing the interior panels, etc. Test drove the car and all looked well. Thirty or so miles later, BAMMM, lots of warning lights. At this point I took it to my mechanic to have it checked out. They found nothing you wouldn't expect when you've disconnected the two batteries.
They cleared the codes and off I went. Again about thirty miles out the lights went on again. Back to the garage once again. What they found was a corroded connector running to the fan, located under the rain gutter of the hatch, passenger side. Hmmm, how'd that get corroded?? Two years ago I remember drain the sump where the spare's located of 6 inches of water, how'd that get in there??? My mechanic confirmed he has seen that before in the Prius. So now I am wondering, did the initial battery fail because the fan may have failed??? Perhaps we need a warning light.....
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Some years back my "farm" '05 prius when a host of bells and whistles went off, cooling fan ran more than normal, and I lost power a couple of times. Turned out this farm prius had an accumulation of dirt, dog hair, hay and other debris that needed to be cleaned out. You got me through the whole process, and the car's run fine until.... . Fast forward a couple of years to 200,003 miles. Now the cooling fan is running pretty constantly, the red triangle stays lit, the check engine light comes on, the (!) is on, and the VSC light is on. Haven't hooked it up to check codes, but did check cooling fan and it's clean. Would it possibly possibly better to change the 12 volt battery?
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I have a 2006 Accent and recently the interior lights have gone dim and the switch to adjust them does not make them brighter nor dimmer, why this has happened? I don't usually have it on the brightest but not the lowest either and now it seems to stay on the lowest setting.
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A little over a week ago I had my battery go low and set off several brake warning lights on the dashboard. I have a very trusted mechanic and had him look it over. There were no issues whatsoever with the braking system and the lights simply occurred due to a drop in battery voltage. My question would be how to clear the lights. I have seen various people use something called a techstream and was wondering if this would be viable in my situation. If so what is the most updated version of the tech stream as well as a possible tutorial. Below for reference is a picture of the lights that were set off on the dashboard(circled). The dash isn't mine just one that I found but the four lights in question are the same.
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I replaced a post-cat O2 sensor because of a code that came up last week. We didn't reset the ECU, but after driving it a couple days the check engine light went out. 3-4 days of driving and everything looked good.
Today the check engine light came on again and autozone read the code as:
P0136 - heated oxygen sensor - bank 1 sensor 2 (HO2S12) sensor range/performance condition
Explanation Open circuit or short circuit condition
Probable Cause
Poor electrical connection
check other service codes
Faulty Bank 1 Sensor 2.
Anyway, I thought it might be because we didn't reset ECU and some kind of calibration might be off in the system. So, I unplugged the battery in an attempt to let it discharge and reset ECU. When I connected the battery back up.... ALL THE FREAKIN LIGHTS ARE NOW ON THE DASH. Check engine... traction control.... tire pressure.... everything.
Golf TDI 2012
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Battery died and car (LS 460) was jumped started. Every warning light is on how do I turn them off. Car was running perfectly until battery was drained.
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Problem with my '86 Celica's charging system. Car has about 135,000 miles and original alternator and belt. It is usually driven once or twice a week, but after sitting about 10 days, the tail light, brake, and battery warning lights came on when I started it. The lights went out after a minute. This same sequence of events happened the next three times I started the car that day. The fourth time, the lights went out but came back on as I drove. I found that revving the engine to between two and three thousand RPM made the light go off, but it sometimes came back on. And the engine revving isn't a sure thing now. Hit and miss. My wife and I have been trying to diagnose the problem.
When the warning lights are on, the dash voltmeter is near the bottom of the operating range. After revving and the lights going off, the voltmeter jumps up near the top of the normal operating range indicating the battery is charging.
The belt is checkered on the inside but not frayed. It deflected about 7/16ths inch midway between two pulleys about 17" apart. The Haynes manual said 1/2 inch was maximum deflection for that span. No unusual noises from the alternator.
We ran a checklist from my Haynes manual but I think it has an error in it. Here are the two steps that don't make sense. I marked the parts that seem to contradict with asterisks.
h) Disconnect the battery cables (negative first, then positive). Inspect the battery posts and the cable clamps for corrosion. Clean them thoroughly if necessary. Reconnect the cable to the negative terminal.
i) With the key off, insert a test light between the negative battery post and the disconnected negative cable clamp.
1) If the test light does not come on, reattach the clamp and proceed to the next step.
2) If the test light comes on, there is a short in the electrical system of the vehicle. The short must be repaired before the charging system can be checked.
3) Disconnect the alternator wiring harness.
(a) If the light goes out, the alternator is bad.
(b) If the light stays on, pull each fuse until the light goes out (this will tell you which component is shorted)."
Well, we decided that the last instruction in Step h should be to reconnect the POSITIVE cable (but could be wrong). I did this and we did Step i as written. The light came ON (Step 2). Disconnect the alternator wires at two points. Light stayed ON. Pulled every fuse under the hood and on the kick panel by the clutch. Light stayed ON.
The battery is near the end of its warranty period--about two-year old DieHard. Voltage at the terminals is about 12.4V with key out, about the same with ignition on but not running, the same with engine running and the dash lights showing, and about 14.5V after I get the dash lights to go off and the battery starts charging.
So, we're at a standstill. Tests say the tension on the belt is okay. The test light testing indicates the alternator is okay and the test light stayed on as fuses were pulled. The key was out of the ignition during the testing, but there are circuits that work without the key (brakes, hazard, headlights, etc.). Is the belt maybe slipping even though it is within specs on tension? What about the contradiction in the Haynes testing?
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I had just picked my kid up from school, as I turn out of the parking lot my A/C stops blowing cool air, I check the A/C screen and it still says it's set on High with temp at 68. However, it is blowing very low with warm air. Seconds later the dash lights up with numerous warning lights. I'm on the highway and I'm able to gather speed, but each time I do I hear the engine revving like crazy. We only live a few miles from the school so I am able to make it home. Once home, I turn off the car and turn it back on. The only warning lights displayed now are the red triangle and the yellow check engine light. I turn the car off, pop the hood, I check the belt and it was fine. I checked the oil and it seemed fine. I check the coolant overflow and it was empty.
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