The guy that I use to rebuild my batteries has recently commented that most of the bad cells he has replaced have been on the driver's side of the battery farther away from the cooling fan. He has since started rotating the cells as preventive maintenance as part of the rebuilding process.
I am interested in other peoples experience regarding where they are finding the defective cell/cells.
My car started giving me trouble I ran the scan tool and it told me that cell 6 was bad on my battery. I replaced the cell and put the battery back in now the check engine light is on and the problem triangle is on and the car wont start and only shifts into neutral but when I check for codes i get nothing .
View 6 Replieslast week I got a whole array of warning lights, including the triangle of death. Took it in to my local mechanic who diagnosed it and told me it was the HV Battery. So, as a temporary fix, we did some DIY and just replaced the bad cell. Everything went well, just some minor troubles toward the end with the engine not turning on, which we fixed by switching the orange switch on the battery and disconnecting and then reconnecting the 12V battery. It was driving great, until u got to work this morning and all the lights came on again. What am I missing?
View 13 RepliesI have two Prius's, a 2008 and a 2005. My 2005 with 129k miles on it is the one in question. Recently I got a check engine light with the code P0A80 and P3016. I purchased a pair of tested to be good cells from Ebay which finally arrived in the mail yesterday. Today I finally got around to installing it and everything was pretty self explanatory... One of 28 cells tested to have 6.24v in block six and all the others had between 7.98-8.00v all around. I went ahead and replaced the bad cell with the new one and put everything back together and now the car will not start.
Cliff notes: Replaced bad cell in main battery back due to CEL P0A80 and P3016.
Car will not start, only turns on...
Getting error message on the radio screen about the Park position is not correct and to park the car on a flat level ground with parking brakes and try again.
Have charged the 12v battery to make sure it has enough juice in it.
I am a new Prius 2010 owner - One question - I read in the manual you should not carry your remote control near your cell phone since it could cause decrease battery life. Does it matter if cell phone is off? I always carried by Camry remote control in my purse with my off cell phone. Camry is 7 years old and battery still works.
View 2 RepliesI have an issue with Prius 2005 driver side power window constantly making clicking sound even after turning off the Prius. All other power windows works, just the driver side is having this issue. This started happening after I changed the 12V battery for my Prius.
The window still rolls down and up but it's very slow and making even louder clicking sound while rolling down and up. Also an other thing that I noticed is that windows keep going down slowly by itself after it's been closed. Any clue as to what went wrong with my driver side power window ?
My Ion won't start under -15 degrees C but when things warm up turn the key and it roars, dealer says when it won't go call us. What to do? Battery cell freezing or something else I should know about?
View 30 RepliesStrangely today my drivers side rear power door lock stopped working. Very annoying, can't unlock it electronically, and if its unlocked the rest of the car won't lock and the headlights won't go off.
I have to put it in anyways for the airbag seat rail TSB, but I was going to wait until my 40k service was due. This is too annoying to wait on since I put my briefcase and hang up my suit jacket in that seat...
The driver's window suddenly, and without warning, collapsed and fell into the door while driving. Fortunately, it didn't shatter.
I pulled the cover and found that the lift cable ball for the fwd track had apparently come out of its receptacle allowing the window to free fall. I hate to just reinstall it as I fear it will happen again and shatter the window.
I heard that possibly Ford has redesigned the cable bracket or some part of the system so that the cable ball can't come loose. Need to know anything about a redesigned bracket or a good way to secure the cable ball? This thing is very difficult to reach and work on, especially for a guy with fat arms!
We've had our Prius v for a few weeks. Bought from a Toyota dealer who serviced the car (oil, filters, rotate) at 114,000 miles) before delivery. The car has been wonderful... until this week. We were on a 900 mile trip to the LA area from Texas, stopped for fuel at about 800 miles, Marino Valley, CA and when I got in to start the car it was completely dead. The day was hot, hitting 115F around Phoenix.
From my manual readings and priuschat readings I thought the 12V battery must have failed.
Car gave us zero warning of any sort of impending failure. The Toyota dealer told my wife and son "120,000 miles and 4 years old, yes, time to replace the 12V". In my opinion, Toyota engineering needs to find a way to detect impending failures, direct dealers to inspect/replace the 12V during routine service appointments (such as this car had 6 weeks prior), or light a dashboard light at certain mileage/age to recommend a new battery. I read another story here where the Prius (non-v) drive had total failure while entering a highway, with no warning signs, and only 1 year after replacement of his 12V.... now THAT would be terrifying.
I have a 2008 Toyota Yaris. A few weeks ago my driver's side rear door stopped unlocking with the button on the key and the button on the driver's side door panel. About 2 weeks ago it started to work again, but just for 1 day; then it went right back to not working. About a week ago my passenger side door did the exact same.
I looked up the issue online and found that people with 07 RAV4s. An owner a RAV4 took the actuator in the door apart and found that the copper contacts had charred. After scraping with extremely fine sand paper and steel wool, and then reassembly of the door, the lock worked.
So the other day, jump in the car to head home from my exercise class and the dash is all lit up with warning lights including the exclamation point, but other than that, the car seems fine. Decided to drive the 2 miles home regardless and then drive carefully to the dealer another 3 miles away. They tell me the HV battery failed and they won't be able to get a replacement until early April. So I'm driving a free rental car which is fine. New battery is covered under the warranty. Car has less than 60K miles on it.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2007 Prius with 92000 miles. All dashboard warning lights lit up the other day. Had it towed to the Toyota dealer and they first replaced the HV ECU. Now they are saying the traction battery needs to be replaced. They have had the car several days but they put me in a free rental.
View 3 RepliesReceived these warning lights this morning.
Just took it to a local shop and here are the codes it has thrown:
The car is running badly now -- really not wanting to drive t at all. Where I can get this fixed myself? I have no problem single charging / grid charging / balancing these things out and or replacing hopefully only "block 8" as denoted above. And yes, this is the nightmare of having you battery go out -- 160k miles right now so no chance of warranty.
As the title says, I have an intermittent issue with the power window in the driver's door. It always works, with the exception of when it gets really damp during the night. In that case when I get in the truck first thing, the window will go down, but not always up the first few tries.
View 1 RepliesI have been posting about P3125 fault which is inhibiting ICE from starting. During this time I have been charging and also testing the traction battery so that I could continue to investigate the P3125 problem.
View 2 RepliesI have an 05 Prius which had no significant problems until the HV battery died this past Feb. Two days later, I'm on the highway and lose power, manage to get the car to an off ramp. Have it towed to a dealer where the power failure pulled up code DTC P3190 and I was told that the car was simply car out of gas. The car was at 3 pips without any indicator going off but after consulting this forum I thought "Okay, maybe this is just the new normal." Filled my car with 5 gallons worth of gas which topped it off (?) and went on my way.
I'll add here for lack of a better place that with the new battery the car has not ever seemed to accelerate cleanly - always feels like there's some resistance on the accelerator when trying to go above 50 on the highway.
Cut to yesterday - I lost power on the highway 3 miles from home with the car at 7 pips (!). I had only put 130 miles on the car since last filling the tank so I can *not* imagine this is a fuel issue. And, worse than ever before, this time when the engine failed I had only about 1000 feet to get over to the shoulder. I did manage to get over safely (for those in SoCal, this was on the 5 North and I narrowly missed blocking the ramps to the 134). To make matters even worse it rush hour in 95+ heat, and I was pinned in my car for 20 minutes (traffic on one side, retaining wall on the other) until the tow truck arrived. I cannot have this happen again.
I had the car towed to the dealer this morning. When the car was picked up the car was at 7 pips in my driveway. The dealer states when the car was dropped of there it was at 1 pip, and sent me a picture of the odometer to verify. Wth?!
How is this possible? How could the gauge have dropped so rapidly? Is there a legitimate way the fuel indicator could have dropped so much or is the dealer scamming me? And what could be be wrong? The AAA driver this morning said they should have replaced the accessory battery when they replaced the hybrid battery, and perhaps that was the source of the problem?
2006 Toyota Prius, bought new in Oct 2006, currently at 90,000 miles.
It just recently broke down on me about a month ago, the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree with every possible light flashing and nav screen showing "problem." I took it to the Toyota dealership and they determined it was a hybrid system fail and replaced the battery.
After this, I'm thinking all is well. I go out of town this past weekend 130 miles away from where I live and day 2 into vacation my dashboard lights up again! Same lights, flashing red triangle, Vsc, check engine, etc. it gets me back to my hotel but the next morning the engine won't start. At least the first time it broke down the cars engine worked and was somewhat drivable.
I have an 07 Prius which I bought used in 2011 and which has been fine (except for some A/C work last year) but got the 'triangle of death' this morning and having towed it to my regular shop, they tell me the code (they couldn't give me the number) simply said 'replace hybrid battery'... the car has 102,605 on the clock.
View 9 RepliesDuring the last few months I noticed that I could no longer charge my Verizon Cell phones (the original Droid and the most recent Samsung). Interestingly, the phones vibrate when connected and display the icon that it is charging. However, after 6 hour trips, the phones are not charged at all. I have tried plugging the chargers into both the places where these chargers can be plugged into. Neither work. Initially I thought it was my charger and bought another one. No luck. So I bought a third charger at another store. Still no charging.
Then my wife and also my daughter connected their phones to the various chargers in my 2006 Prius and in each case it stated that the phone was charging but they did not charge. Then I connected the same phones to the same charger and to the cigarette lighter in my Mercedes. The phone charged. Same with my wife's phone. Clearly, this has something to do with my 2006 Prius. My dealer determined that the voltage from charger is 9.5 volts when the car is not running and that the voltage is 14.5 volts when the car is running. how to determine what is causing this odd behavior?
I have been getting all sorts of weird messages and warnings for a few weeks now, and have previously posted about them. I have a service appointment next Monday.
Today I decided to check my driver's side battery and found only 11.6 volts. I am charging it as we speak. It will be interesting to see if it holds a charge. If not, then the battery is definitely bad.
The question becomes whether the bad battery is the only bad item, or whether it is the power management controller also.