Prius (Gen 2) :: All Kind Of Signs Lit Up With New Battery
Jan 13, 2013
2005 prius only starts when negative terminal is disconnected/reconnected. I recently bought this car with the dead 12 volt battery. Jump started to drive home next morning put new battery it started but all kind of sign lit up VSC, (!), snowflake symbol on the road, big triangle with exclamation mark. I was able to drive the car for 1 hour with very poor gas Milage. Now each time I have to start I have to disconnect the terminal for 10-15 min. I have already replaced the MAF SENSOR, and 12 volt battery. During battery installation My 10mm key accidentally touched the positive terminal as well for a split sec. But warning lights were present before the replacement and the gentleman who sold me the said once battery is replaced lights will go away? When I replaced the MAF sensor they were gone for brief moment but came back on after 1/2 a block?
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Firstly let me say that the car is still running perfectly and giving great MPG, but I just wanted to document some early signs of traction battery weakness.
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Once a Gen I battery starts showing signs of dying (overcharging when should be in "sleep' mode, MPH loss, loss of power, etc.), what is the range for how long the battery might go before all the lights go on indicating "now it's really dying"?
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It all started......when I got onto the highway and glanced down at the gauge cluster and noticed my battery light was on and kind of flashy (clipping, so to speak)...and that I was in 2nd gear...whoops. (My tach's busted, else I probably would have noticed that sooner.)
Quick correction and things are right as rain. The next day I go out and make 3-4 stops with less than 10 minutes of drive time between each. I'm almost home (battery light's been on intermittently since last night) and the idle slows slightly and the windows no longer work. I make it home and the gauge cluster is dead by now, but leave the truck running, grab a socket wrench and pry off the positive battery lead. Truck dies.
I'm thinking alternator, so I pull the battery and charge it inside, then pull the alternator the next day and have it tested. Tests fine (putting out 1430 (is that mA?) per O'Reilley's). Crap. Cleaned all connections (including taking off the negative terminal grounded to the starter and shining it up a little, then pulling the connections off the firewall and sanding them lightly), checked 20A inline blade fuse, both 175A fusible links, but it's still not charging. If I want to go anywhere, I have to pull the battery and charge it inside.
I was thinking it might be the voltage regulator, but I just called O'Reilley's and they told me that the test on the alternator included the regulator. I just confirmed that the belt on the pulley is okay. What did I most likely fry that caused my battery light to come on? (97 4.6L)....
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2010 Prius IV, Purchased July '13 with 133k. Now 175k. Other than drivers rear hub & brake recall, never an issue...until now. It the past 3 weeks, it has "went through" 3.5 quarts of oil. NO SIGNS of a leak (no puddles on floor and the "padding" on the pan side of the access door is dry). Doesn't smoke at all. The oil dipstick isn't rusted out.
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2004 prius with 170k. Basically , his engine just doesn't shut off. battery is full. Engine keep running at the stop signs, in park. No engine light on.
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I am brand new to the forum. Just got a 2008 prius from a small father-son dealership and am getting used to the new sounds (or lack thereof) under the hood. I am getting a " winding down" kind of noise from in front of the driver after I turn the car off. it does not happen unless I have driven at least a short distance: i cant just run it in the driveway and then shut down and hear it. Is this normal, and what might it be?
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My problems in my ac begin last year around Summer. My ac was blowing hot and not cold and once it even blew some kind of smoke out of the vents. It only did that once and hasn't since. I went to good year and put some freon in the car. And it started to blow cold again and I was good for a while. Well I didn't need the cold air for the last few months till the heat started up again.
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I have a 2007 Level 3 Prius with about 110k miles. I now have a problem that I am not sure how to fix. Perhaps because of the warmer weather the rubber that you press to get the hatch open has gotten kind of sticky. Sometimes your fingers will get some sticky black on them. I was starting to think that I should look into replacing this rubber. The hatch was sometimes getting hard to open.
Well, we just took this big 1300 mile drive from central Florida to western NY. We are now in 9 degree weather. I cannot get the hatch to open at all. The other day it stuck but after a few attempts and carefully pressing down on the hatch without hurting the spoiler I got it to open. I first thought it was just because things were packed tightly, but now nothing is back there and I cannot get the hatch to open.
I think I have resigned myself to the fact that I wont fix this until I'm back in sunny warm weather. Any thoughts on how to get this to open? And if I do get it to open will I be able to close it again? It feels like there is no longer any "give" to where you press the rubber to open the hatch.
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if I start my car and leave it in park and turn the air on max, on the 1st or 2nd fan setting, I usually get no cold air, its just normal temperature. if I begin to drive for a bit the air turns cold, then if I stop and park, the air usually stays cool sometimes.
however, last week we had a heatwave here in SoCal and it was around 100 or so, and my car was outside for a while. I started it up and the air was not blowing cold for quite some time, I had to drive for a while to get it going.
I drive mostly on the highway and my A/C works fine but I noticed hiccups like these here and there and want to know if its something I should look into before it gets worse
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I tried to turn on my car this morning, but the "Ready" sign didn't go on. The whole display is black. "Check Engine" sign blinked briefly. Battery display shows the battery is "green". Everything else works - cd/radio/bluetooth, etc. As I tried to start it, the screen showed that the engine briefly charged the Prius battery, then it was all quite. I tried to wait and restart a few times, but still the display was all black and no "ready" sign. I WAS able to still move the car, but I didn't chance to drive it out of the garage. I just had it serviced (oil/fluid change). Small battery was replaced in July.
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If my traction battery has plenty of 'juice' in it, and my 12v battery is dead....is there any way to 'jump' the 12 volt battery with the traction battery to get the car started?
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I was installing an aftermarket nav system on prius 08, because 2 hours working with dome lights on I have to jump start, now battery doesn't show bars is blank no mpg status, a message appeared check a/c connections.
I check connections and NOTHING avg mpg got stuck... enter to service menu shows 13.6 volts while running and the car is running fine! just the bars doesn't appear not even mpg avg
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My 2012 Prius v has a traction battery gauge beside the fuel gauge. The gauge has never shown that the battery is full. It appears as if the indicator is 2 bars below full at all times. Is this by design or should the gauge look full with bars to the very top after charging on a long trip?
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What kind of maintenance should I do for my Phaeton? It is a 2005 model, V8, 4.2L. Currently has the mileage of 116K, out of warranty. I am going to do the oil change in about 10 days. At that time, I also want to do some regular examination for my car.
I am kind of worrying my transmission system, should I check it? Or, what other parts should I check for a Phaeton at a mileage of 116K? For this month, I have already changed my power steering pump for 1k CDN and left headlight for 450CDN
I really want to take good care of my CAR and try to spend less money on repairing it.
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My Phaeton (V8) is overheating when the outside temperature is around 0 C (+/-10 C).
It rises all the way to 130 C, the warning signs comes up, it stays there for about a minute and than the fans kick on and the T goes back to normal.
It has been doing that for the last three years intermittently in the spring and fall.
This season it is getting more persistent and it is occurring pretty much every time I use the car (usually not more that once per cycle, a cycle being from the time the engine is started to shut down).
The dealership can't seem to find the problem. The thermostat was replaced at the same time that the water pump and timing belt were replaced and it did not solved the problem.
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I started noticing a burning oil smell a few weeks ago after driving to and from work. Then I noticed drops of oil on the floor in the garage. I wanted to start a consumption test so I scheduled an appointment at my dealer and asked them to look at the leak.
The invoice says they replaced some screws and a bolt near the turbo and cleaned the area. That was Monday. Today there are a few fresh drops and the burning oil smell is back as I drove to work. I made another appointment for Friday. What this could be.?
I'm at 53k miles and glad it's still covered. Just hope they get to the bottom of it.
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I wanna know if I can take a regular car battery 500-600 cca to replace the old aux battery.
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Well I put some HID light in my 2001.5 GLX Passat an I notice that they are aiming kind of low. I know which slots are what. Ones for highering and lowering and the others from side to side. But when I'm trying to adjust them the up and down they work but when I'm trying to adjust the side to side they seem like they aren't moving. Which is a better way to tell? I put it right next to a wall 25 feet away in the dark but I really couldn't tell still. Plus it's not a straight line either. Since I have the perjecter lights their should be a cut off line right? Also is it like turning it right to make the light go right or left to go right, for the side adjustments?
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So I've got a 2007 2.0T FSI waggie. To my knowledge, the cam follower hasn't been replaced, at least not since I bought it when it had 64,000km on it. The car now has 125,000km on it. The car shows no signs of the CF starting to fail, just thinking preventative maintenance.
At ECS, the CF is $50. My dealer wants $100 and also 'strongly' recommends replacing the high-pressure fuel pump at the same time. The price of the pump is $500. Is this a scare tactic? I mean, I understand if the CF is worn, there will likely be wear on the pump, but replacing a $500 part when it's not necessary doesn't sit right with me. Or... just leave it alone and see if the CF fails, and get a new engine from VW under warranty.
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On a 1997 Nissan pickup 241,000 mile 2.4 liter. What are the signs of a bad manifold gasket. How can i test it.
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