Prius (Gen 2) :: Alarm Going Off And Only Stop When Put Key FOB Back In Slot And Start The Car
Aug 1, 2013
I own a 2004 Prius II. It has 140,000 miles on . I've changed the 12 volt battery last year and that has been the worst of isuues. However, my alarm has been going off after I get out of my car after driving it and it won't stop
untill I put the key FOB back in the slot and start the the car up. I have to leave the key FOB in the slot all night to stop it from going off all night long. I changed key FOBs and thought I had fixed the issue but after a long drive I came home got out of car and its started again. I have the other posts on this subject and tried all of the fixes except disconnecting the alarm Will try and take it to a dealership but not confident they can fix it.
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I'm having trouble with the dash slot. The car will start if the key is just in my pocket, but when I go to put the key fob in the slot, the car will not start. Normally this isn't a problem for me because I never take the key out of my pocket, but when I went to try and get a remote starter installed, they said the dash slot needs to work correctly in order for them to install the starter.
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I bought this second hand 2008 Prius some few months ago. I can't start my 2008 Prius without inserting the key into the slot. I want to start the car with the key in my body, how do i do it? I have changed the fob battery, the key is doing every other thing, but i must insert it into the slot before i can the start the car
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I have to use the mechanical key on the SKS to open the door, then plug into the slot on dashboard to start the 2004. Replaced battery, nothing changed.
There are two causes I suspect:
1. The CR2023 Battery was bought on Amazon for cheap, about 6 month ago. What's the voltage should be if no load?
2. The plastic cover on the SKS was broken. It could be that rain or not-so-clean-water gets into the electronic part.
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Sister have problems with her 2000 Passat. She bought the car new and has dumped way too much money into this thing since then, just keeping it going. First off, some valet broke her glove box so i would like to know if there is anywhere to buy parts at a good price, a trusted place. Secondly, when she starts the car up an alarm goes off on the display and says "STOP: Brake Fault" but apparently a tech that she trusts says her brakes are fine minus the fact that the FP brake is missing a "pin", claimed to be fixed at the dealer but wasn't.
As well as she throws a cel pertaining to a?Secondary airflow valve? Lastly, she has been holding onto some little plastic piece that fell off somewhere on the inside. It looks like half of a smurf hat or a comma if that makes it easier to visualize. Part numbers on the back are 3B085854801C Donnelly 423 1919. I do all the work on my own car but have a bit of a time working on things on this VW. They really don't like people working on these outside the dealer, but she is looking to get this stuff repaired along with a rear window off track, and that's insane.
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2004 UK Prius. My key fob won't open the car. I can open using the key in the side of the fob but then I can't stop the alarm?
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Apparently while I car was at the stealership for it's 45k service, the car alarm was going off crazy and wouldn't stop, so their techs disconnected the horns.
First time they delivered my car back, the horns wouldn't work- sent it back.
Second time around, porter turns off car, closes the driver door, and car alarm starts blaring, other techs and customers starting and closing their ears..
Not sure what could be going on.
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Two days ago, my horn began honking for no reason...as if the anti theft alarm was going off. I was able to shut it off only by putting the key in its ignition. Last night, the possession by the devil was complete and at 10:30pm, my car began to honk (same as before) incessantly... and I wasn't able to turn it off. This happened about 5 time within 30 minutes. I tried to disconnect the battery but of course, the Prius designers placed the battery in a location that makes it impossible to disconnect. Why this horn malfunction is occurring?
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3l with an aftermarket alarm. I can't read what the third letter is on the decal MV? 2000 Modular Vehicle Security. I added a pic of the alarm decal below. The key fob it had was aftermarket for the alarm and stopped working about a year ago. Today I unlocked the drivers door with the key and the lights started flashing and I can hear a clicking sound. It done this a few times back when the key fob still worked and I just kept hitting lock and unlock until it finally stopped. It won't let me start the truck at all and I have tried unhooking the batteries with no luck.
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I have just noticed that my C4 does not have a slot on the dashboard to insert the Smart Start key. What do you do when the battery in the key fob runs so low (or out) so that the car won't recognize the signal and you need to get in and around somewhere?
I had this issue once in a while with my '05, where the battery got low or some outside radio signal was interfering with the communication, requiring 1) the use of the manual key, 2) inserting the key fob into the slot so the car would start. My key fob on my C4 does have the manual entry key, but no place to insert it.
Also, when leaving the car at the car wash, I would leave the key in the slot so the workers could start the car up to move it as needed.
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I got in my car yesterday morning, put my foot on the brake and pushed the "start" button. The car's dashboard lit up, almost entirely, and stayed that way with a large exclamation point within a triangle (red) lit up as well. I pulled out my owner's manual and could find no explanation for the combination of these symbols, only their main uses.
When I went to turn the car back off, the radio came on and the transmission symbols (park, drive, reverse, neutral) all lit up and stayed on with the key slot blinking. I was very confused, so I put my foot back on the brake and pushed the start button, again. At this point, please refer back to earlier in this post to the second sentence and re-read everything to this point.
At this point, I thought maybe the vehicle needed its key put in the ignition for a recognition situation? One of my key batteries is already dead and the second one needs replacing, soon. The key became LOCKED in the ignition. After pushing the start button and off button several more times, a message appeared on my touch-screen saying something about a problem with the parking brake pedal being applied firmly while on a flat surface. Tried that, with no results. Eventually, I was able to remove the key and turn the vehicle off.
After calling the service shop, I was told to get the car towed in (it sits in the garage, facing inward, and the gear shift does not work!), and then had to explain that I couldn't put the car in neutral to remove it from the garage.
I also need new tires, these are worn through and I haven't even finished paying off the vehicle! One of the rubber strips on the roof has come off and I've stored it in the back of the vehicle for the past year or so, and inspection has to take place before Sept. 1, 2011.
Is it the small battery for starting the car, and can I replace this myself, or should I leave it up to the professionals because it is part of the hybrid synergy system and is still under the 8-year, 100,000 mile?
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I have a 2001 Nissan Altima with a few miles on it.(217,734) The A.C. works great while it is on, but it will stop working then start back up. Out of frustration I will turn it off and on until it starts up again. It will run for a little bit then cut out again and I repeat the process. I have switched out the relays and checked the belts, all is well there. What could be the problem?
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Using one of those GPS mounts that goes into your CD player slot? I need a new mount for my Garmin in my C and was wondering if they work well.
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My key only works now if I push it in the slot next to the steering wheel. I never had trouble with it before. It also only works intermittently for locking/unlocking the doors. Do I need a new key?
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I have replaced my trans and now I have a problem with it going into fall safe mode. I was told it was to do with a sensor on the transfer case. Could this be my problem? I can turn the truck off and turn it back on and it will shift out, but when I stop and start to take off it goes back into the fall safe mode, staying in high gear.
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One day, I drove my Prius with my key fob in pocket. Parked the car. Turned off the power. Opened the driver side door to get off. Heard the continuous beep of "key fob in the slot" warning. I had never heard of it so I did not what it was. Tried closing / opening the door several times. The warning kept coming when I opened it. Tried getting off the car, pushed the lock button. It locked with lock beep normally.
After a few hours, I found the battery was dead. Had it jump started and the problem had not come back for a few weeks.
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Prius owner, Just bought it 3 days ago! 2007 no nav system, but the key fob is the silver logo and has the key button on the lower dash...so I assume it is a smart key system. However, the key fob will not unlock or lock the car, the panic button doesn't work either. The car will only start with the fob in the slot.
Why will it start the car only in the slot? I changed the battery out in the fob and it still didn't lock/unlock. I didn't try the smart key start with the new battery...I don't even know if I have a smart start. Why does it not open/lock the car?
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So I got my C 4 and couldn't be happier. Now, the wife wants a few things extra... Remote start for the A/C or heat a few minutes before entering the car and alarm.
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I've got VAG-COM and I've enabled the convenience menu, but when I change ATA Confirmation to "off", my horn still beeps when I lock the car. Is there something I've missed? Is ATA Confirmation not what controls that?
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I have a 2000 Honda Accord with 170,000 miles on it. Runs great. The car alarm goes off randomly in spurts. Some days it goes off multiple times. Sometimes it will go a week or two without going off at all. The battery has been replaced in hopes of solving the problem. That didn't work. So, I have taking out the alarm sounding device so as to not disturb the neighbors. However, I find that dangerous and it doesn't solve the problem of the persistent alarm. I can tell when it is going off by the flashing lights. I thought it was the clicker, so I switched that and that didn't work either.
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so whenever i unlock my car with the remote on the key, i can open the door. while the door is still open it will lock back, turning the alarm on as well. would that have anything to do with the key? or some other problem?
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