My 07' 142k with new 12v battery keeps setting off the alarm. All the doors were opened and shut, trunk and hood than locked but to no avail. Alarm keeps going off unless the key fob is inserted in dash.
View 3 RepliesTwo days ago my '03 Silverado stopped recognizing when I pop the parking brake loose and now dings incessantly while I drive and the parking brake light on the dash flashes on and off.
I tried...
1.) Engaging and releasing the parking brake multiple times.
2.) Checked the brake fluid level (perfect level)
3.) Checked my owner's manual (not enough info in the manual)
I realized my newly bought Priuss' horn wasn't working when I tried using it earlier in the week.
Me and my dad and I opened up the hood, we realized that the fuse box was missing the horn fuse.
Dad being a a self taught mechanic, we inserted the fuse and almost instantly, the horn started going off. It was just a constant loud beep.
He then removed the fuse and the horn stopped.
My 2012 F-150 has the back up camera, and the warning system that beeps with increasing frequency when you're backing into something.
It's worked flawlessly, however the last few times I've started and put it in reverse, it starts beeping constantly although there is absolutely nothing back there. Having been on this forum for probably 3 years, I don't recall this system ever being discussed.
So, where is the sensor located? I looked all around the obvious places, like under the rear bumper, and don't see anything. Is it part of the camera
system?
Secondly, what could make it beep when there is nothing there? Yes, the tailgate is up, and there is nothing in the hitch that might trick it. I'm thinking
dirt on a senor.
On my dash the prnds lights flash constantly. The car shifts fine and the paddle shifters work too.
View 2 RepliesDont ask how but i put in a wrong passat b6 key. And now it wont come out. How do i take it out??
View 9 RepliesSo, about 6 months ago, I bought a 1999 Dodge Ram just to keep around the house to do odd and ends jobs. Not a daily driver. I might have a need for it every few months. Well, a few months ago, I went to start it and the battery was dead. I have a battery charger that tests the battery. It said the battery was bad. So, I bought a new battery. A few days ago, I went to start it... again with the new battery, it was dead.
Put the charger on it and it said again that there was a shorted cell in it. So, I returned that one under warranty. Now went to start it, dead again (a week later.) So, I guess it's obvious it's not a bad battery (or at least the bad batteries are a cause of something else wrong.) I'm guessing there's a slow drain somewhere in the truck. How to find it?
I don't know if this has anything to do with it... Ever since I've owned it, every once in a while when driving the truck, all the gauges on the dash go to 0. Then it will just randomly start working again. Don't know if that has anything to do with the battery dying problem.
Just as I was about to start my '03 S10 I noticed that all of the gauges were not at zero and showed various levels even though the key was not inserted. When I tried to start it there was nothing. I charged the battery overnight and it started without hesitation; however, as I started driving, the gauges would stop working and then suddenly jump to life and, at the same time, all the idiot lights would light up! This carried on the entire 20 minute drive to work. Incredibly, none of this happened on the way home. My OBD reader reported zero issues. What's wrong with my truck?
View 3 RepliesI'm having an electrical problem that's resulting in the hazards, dash lights, radio and clock all constantly flashing on and off repeatedly. The car starts fine.
When investigating under the hood, I found a wire (pictures below) that wasn't connected to anything. I'm not sure if this is what's causing the problem, but I figured this was a good place to start.
What this wire is supposed to be attached to, and if it has anything to do with the flashing lights I'm experiencing?
What this wire is or possible causes of these flashing lights.
I have a leak somewhere in my car. There are no spots left from my parking stall, or any visible wet spots under the hood, but my car continuously looses fluid somewhere. It disappears fast enough that in a 10 minute drive it can go from full to the coolant light and alarm going off on the dash.
View 1 Repliesfor the past 2 years (ever since putting in a new battery) my Saturn as been setting off a constant alarm without the presence of the warning symbols on the dash. You know when you leave the keys in the ignition, and open the door and get that annoying klaxon alarm? that's what my car does all the time. sometimes it goes off by itself, but you usually have to turn off the car and "reboot" it. There are never any warning symbols lit up when it does this, only the alarm. I took it to my mechanic and he said that there was nothing he could do, taking out the fuse for the beeping would somehow disable the car? I will soon take a shotgun to the fuse box if I can't find out how to take care of this problem.
View 2 RepliesHave 2005 Camry LE. Had body work done yesterday and they must have disconnected battery and now alarm does not work. Have 3-button (lock, unlock and panic) FCC ID #C043VT14T remote. Alarm system is by Micorp. I tried using program instructions for the FCC ID #C043VT14T remote for another model Toyota but did not work. Keyless entry on remote works but anti theft alarm does not work. Dash button continually flicks red. How to reset (program) remote for 2005 Camry?
View 2 RepliesI noticed yesterday in traffic, looking for a parking space the ICE was constantly cycling off and on. The battery was only at 2 bars so I understand why it was doing that. How does the Prius get the mileage it does if the gas engine is turning off and on all the time in traffic? Yes it was hot and I had the A/C on too, which of course draws more current. We had driven 130 miles and I was amazed at how short the SOC lasted.
Suffice to say that once we got out of the congested area and I could brake more effectively the off and on went away.
Also on the way back I used the normal mode for windy hilly areas and the eco mode for the highway with cruise on. Oddly enough at the end of the trip the CONS was showing 57.6mpg. Didn't seem like changing modes hurt the mileage at all if any.
I bought this car new in 2010 and it's a level IV not Four as it is a 2010. I am about to replace my headlights for the 5th time after only having had these for about 3-4 months. The dealership says that things happen but I've never owned a vehicle where the headlights are constantly going out. The first 3 times that the headlights went out, the dealership replaced them. I replaced them this last time .
I don't believe it's the headlights as much as I feel that it has something to do with the car. They went out last night as I got into the car at night and when I switched on the lights, they flashed and went out. The high beams still work but the lows do not.
I have a 2002 Prius with 143,000 miles on it. All bars on the fuel gauge blink on and off constantly, the seat belt reminder, open door warning, and headlight indicator do not work. I checked all fuses & load tested the battery.
View 3 RepliesOur Prius is a second generation from 2006. Over the weekend the right front hub bearing was replaced. This was their diagnosis after we reported hearing "humming" noise from the front side of the car. They did a test drive around the block and they said that this was the problem. True enough, the noise went away after they have done the procedure. Unfortunately, the ! ABS VSC lights are now constantly on. I noticed this when I drove the car going home (about a mile away). I reset the jumper pins 4 and 13 on the DLC together with pumping the brake pedals.
This immediately solved the problem with the lights. They were off now and everything was back to normal. I then did a test drive, and lo and behold, when I hit on the brakes, no matter how soft, the car jerks as if the ABS was engaging. This happened twice before the ! ABS and VSC lights again went off. As soon as the error lights went back on, braking became normal once more - no more jerky and intermittent braking.
I then drove home and did the jumper procedure again to make sure that the first attempt wasn't just a fluke. I had the same experience as before, car braking became intermittent and jerky. The ! ABS and VSC lights again turned on - and right after, braking became normal.
My air conditioning constantly blows out warm air - even if I set it to the lowest temperature ("LO").
View 19 RepliesJust picked up my F250 a few days ago and it's been great up until yesterday when I hopped in to start her up and nothing. It's a brand new battery and all lights worked, but the dash was dead. I attempted in vain for an hour or so to diagnose as to why this was happening and just happened to open the door with the key in the ignition and hit the door lock button....all of a sudden the truck starts beeping and the message on the dash said "to disable alarm start vehicle". I turned the key, the dash lighted up and away I went. What I may have done to cause this or has it happened to you? I'm thinking it's something with the key fob but not sure.
View 6 RepliesI am on my 3rd set of wiper blades trying to get rid of the skipping motion. I did not notice this problem with original. I bought one set at Autozone that skipped, went back and bought an expensive pair of blades, they skipped.
I bought the best wipers t, they skipped.
I just went to the dealer and got a pair of blades, they skip just as bad as all the others I've tried.
I have tried cleaning the windshield, This last time I used clay bar on the windshield but that made it worst. It would skip after each swipe after I used clay bar.
The last thing I done was use some waterless wash on windshield that has it temporally stopped skipping. The wipers run smooth so there is not a problem with any jerking or motion or anything like that.
I have 115K on 2011 Prius, not had a minute trouble out of it except for this skipping. I also have about 65K mile on this set of Michelin Energy saver A/S tires, they will go another 10K. I'm averaging 51 mpg Summer and Winter.
I can usually find what Im looking for with a quick search but I have had no luck with this issue.
View 19 RepliesI have a bad sensor in a tire that just had a flat. I have ordered the sensor for the wheel and I am wondering after I install the sensor in the tire will the 'reader' pick it up and reset itself or do I need to go through the programming of the new sensor? At this time the TPMS warning light comes on and flashes for a minute or so before staying on constantly. This tells me it's trying to read the tire sensors but there is a fault, which is the tire sensor where I just had the flat. Costco tells me that sensor reads 78psi, which is incorrect. The fact that the reader is trying to read all the sensors and getting an error makes me think that it might reset itself when the new sensor transmitter is put in the tire? Any chance of this resetting itself or will I need to reprogram the receiver unit?
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