Prius (Gen 2) :: AC / Heater Will Run For About 5 To 10 Minutes And Then Shut Off
Sep 8, 2010
2008 prius . About 3 weeks ago the ac started to go out intermittently. I tried changing the cabin filter, that didn't work. I turned on the heater and checked to see if it was doing the same thing and it was. The system will run for about 5 to 10 minutes and then shut off. I searched on the net and couldn't find anything close to what i have going on with my car.
So after a week of looking around the net. I took the car into the dealership. for 125.00 they checked it out and found that it was either a service subassembly, blower control or blower motor sub assembly. It would be one of the three or 2 of the three parts. altogether 750.00 to 1300.00 for them to fix. my questions are, can i replace the parts myself, would it be cheaper, would i just be able to plug the parts in and go, or do they need programming?
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If I put the Prius in park while I get out and mail a letter, engine temp is 190, I can get back in and drive off on electric, zero rpm's. However, if I push the start/stop button, mail the letter, and restart the engine (temp is still 190), I cannot get the engine to spool down. It keeps running for a few minutes.
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I've noticed that when the Prius is shut off a few minutes later you hear a clicking noise from under the drivers seat. Sounds almost like a solenoid. It only happens when the car is shut down.
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I have Jeep Liberty 2002 with 100300 miles. I having starter problem and the starter was replaced with a new one. Still I am having the same problem, the car can only re-start 30 minutes or more after I shut it off. The mechanic stated that he does not know what it is causing the problem.
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Is there a way to shutoff the air that comes out the heater vent. it seem this a problem with all the 430sc.
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I have a 2006 Dodge Caravan, My AC unit works great. With the heater, it will work for 2-3 minutes, at which point it starts to blow cool air. I can leave it running, but it never gets warm again, if I turn the fan off for 3-5 minutes, when I turn it back on, I get a good amount of heat that goes for about 2-3 minutes before blowing cold air again.
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Here is my question.. 94 Z28 38K 6spd. Starts right up and runs well, for about 15-20 minutes then will shut down( like the key was turned off) When this happens I have no signal to either the ignition module or to the injectors.
This car was damaged by an idiot that flooded the dist. with coolant doing a flush. They replaced it with a Advance auto remain. This is when the trouble started. I did replace the I/M with an AC OEM Module, no change, verified all wiring from the computer to the Dist. and I/M. All checked out. I am thinking that the cheap remain unit is my problem and am looking to get the MSD Opti spark system to hopefully fix and to prevent this problem from happening again.
I cannot retrieve codes (94 won't flash CEL codes). Is there any other method of diag I could use to verify my suspicions. Oh, there is not response from the Tech either once the engine dies.
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I drive a 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix. Yesterday, I drove to the store about 5 minutes away. When I went back to my car 10 minutes later, it wouldn't start. Wouldn't turn over, no clicking, just silence. Finally had to leave it there. When I came back 1 1/2 hours later, it started fine. Same thing happened to me this morning. Drove it 5 minutes, now it won't start. What could it be?
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My 2012 Maxima has a combined heated/cooled driver's seat. In the heat function the heater will randomly shut off. If I shut the car off and then restart the car the heater function will resume. It happens inconsistently and I've not been able to establish a known pattern to predict the behavior. In February 2014 (under warranty) I had the switch, the heater module processor and heater replaced. In February of 2015 the problem reoccurred.
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Had very cold weather the past few weeks. Took my car out early in the morning last Thursday (after warming it up) and there was a loud squealing noise from the heater for about 2 minutes when I was driving five minutes from my driveway. Since then, I have this faint squealing noise that can be heard anytime that heater is on. It loud on the first two settings.
Took it to Toyota and they said it was normal due to the cold but from past cars I've owned, it looks like the blower motor could be on it's way out? Can this be true? Car has 11,000 miles on it.
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I have a 2010 F-150 which has a problem that the dealer cannot figure out. When I leave the heater/air on when I shut the truck off upon restart the heater/air is off. The heater/air will turn on if I restart the truck within a few minutes but if it is left for say 15mins it seems the truck forgets where the heater switch was upon shut down. This causes a huge problem for my remote starter as the selection I need does not come on after leaving the vehicle for a time.
The codes for the truck are OK according to the dealer.
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Here's what I have. 02 X 7.3L 4x4.
Heater will work fine. Then out of nowhere just blow cold. I can turn it off then back on it'll blow hot for 1 minute or 20 minutes. Then out of nowhere blow cold again. It doesn't matter if I'm highway driving or city driving.
I'm kinda thinking it may be the door in the duct that's just closing. I real don't know.
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Engine shutdown then starts after a few minutes....
Jeep cherokee 4.8L 2000 .....
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I drive a 2002 Honda Civic 4 door DX.
In 2011 at intersections, the car unpredictably shut off completely and then restarted ten minutes later - this happened twice, spaced two weeks apart.
I took the car to two mechanics, one a Honda, where they simulated driving and performed diagnostic tests but could find nothing wrong.
I Googled the Internet in search of an answer and ran across a fellow who had experienced a similar shutdown with his car and resolved it by purchasing a new ignition switch. So I tried that. Everything was fine until two weeks when I stopped at an intersection and the car shut down again - the dashboard lights stayed on. A police officer nearby push the car to the side of the road and we then pushed the car back and forth a bit. About ten minutes later, the car started up again as if nothing had happened and everything was OK.
I again took my car to the Honda dealer, but they could find nothing wrong, including driving the car around the neighborhood.
I am a total loss as to what do to. I am reluctant to junk this car because everything else is A-OK. The car drives fine and I love it because it is manual with minimum digital stuff including manual windows. But I cannot afford to drive this car when there is the chance of another unpredictable shutdown.
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'93 Civic 1.5 manual starts first crank when cold but has trouble starting if you shut it off within 5-10 minutes of initial start. Just cranks and cranks, no start. Wait a half hour, starts right up. Warm start no problem, just that first 5 minutes after initial start. Gonna check it out today . . . first chance I've had to look at it. No other problems, drives and runs well, no stumble, good idle, mpg hasn't changed, just this annoying issue.
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I'm the owner of a 2009 4-motion SEL with 85,000 kms....recently it has been stalling out after startup. Sometimes this occurs after driving away, but most frequently before. It usually works fine after a couple of starting attempts. I've read through some posts regarding the high pressure fuel pump as a possibility. I've also noticed a pump or fan type hum that lasts for 5-10 min. emanating from the rear of the vehicle after shutting it down. Not sure if this is normal or could be related?
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I'm driving a 2000 F150 with the Triton V8 5.4L.
My check engine light came on the other night while heading home. I went to Auto Zone and had them scan it and it came back with the P0125 error code.
My guess is that the thermostat is faulty because my heater is blowing lukewarm air after about 20-30 minutes of normal driving and I would expect the air to be much warmer so I'm thinking that the engine is not getting up to normal operating temperature.
I understand that this can be bad for fuel economy and such, but my question is it safe to drive?
I had planned on hunting up in the hills tomorrow all day and just want to know if this could cause any damage?
Here's a picture of what my cluster looks like after running for about 30 minutes.
Cluster after 30 minutes of driving.
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I was driving and shut off the truck to get gas after that the heater will not turn back on. I checked the fuses but was wondering if there is anything else. I would suspect this is more electrical. It is cold. 2006 150 4x4....
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I've stumped the local dealership and their Hyundai Tech Line as well. This is a 2011 Hyundai Sonata with about 50k miles. Also this is my first winter with it so I can't tell you if it's a new issue or if it's always happened in the "cold". This is Northern California so the cold nights are about as low as 30.
On a cold start, after 20-30 minutes the heater sputters out and the lights on the control unit go out. Sometimes it goes back on if I continue driving for 5-15 more minutes; another way for it to go on again is to turn the car off and start it again. The final way to turn it back on (which was discovered the last time it was in the shop) is to gently begin to start the car again (while it's on) and just that slight movement in the ignition cylinder turns it back on.
The sputtering out doesn't actually turn it off completely, just the lights, buttons and knobs stop responding and the heat mostly goes off.
The control unit has been replaced, plugs have been tightened and the ignition cylinder has been replaced.
They've road tested it 3 times and I'm a little tired of having to get a rental car as they claim to not be able to start a new case with Hyundai Tech Line until they have my car.
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I have just replaced a fuel pump on my 98 neon and it started up and then shut off after about 5 minutes. there is electricity running to the pump just not kicking it over what could be the problem
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Been chasing my tail and can't figure out an electrical issue. My issue is that I'll drive for about 20-30 min and the truck will shut off while driving. I'll pull off the road, let it sit for 10-20 min (cool down) and It will fire back up and go for another 15 min or so. Sometimes it will glitch/wig out when i try to start or not start....
I've replaced the following and monitored everything on a scanner.
-cam sensor
-crank sensor
-2 new batteries
-flashed the ecu
05' F250 6.0 King Ranch 4X4
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