Prius (Gen 2) :: A/C Started Blowing Hot Air After Damage To Front Under-tray?
Aug 23, 2011
Alright, so we had an unfortunate run-in with a parking space and I ripped the front under-tray off, not sure what it's actually called. I still have it, the eyes are just ripped out.
But that's not my main issue. The main issue is that the A/C only blows hot now. I know you can sometimes kill a condenser, because road debris will puncture it, but how do you know for sure what's wrong? I'm good with my hands and not afraid to take my car apart, I'm just wanting to be sure before I go ordering parts. I have the relevant sections of the repair manual, but if it's the ES18 compressor or something, how would I know? And is there any way to know without taking the bumper off?
I'll also need a source for ND OIL 11..
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I have a 2010 Toyota Prius. I have had it for a little over a year. A couple weeks ago I noticed that the paint on the front fender had "bubbled up" in a strip approximately 8 inches long. It felt like the fender was cracked underneath it. I took the car in to the dealership. Their service department took off the fender and said that it was warped, not broken. They said it was due to some kind of heat damage that it had been exposed to. Of course, they said it wasn't due to any malfunctioning of the car. They say the car must have been "exposed" to some kind of heat source. In other words, it is all my fault and they are not going to fix it under the warranty! I have not exposed it to any kind of heat, except sun light!
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I have an 05 prius that has been a great car 193,000 miles with no issues, until now. AC started blowing warm air so took it to mechanic who replaced the compressor. Blew cold for a day and started blowing warm again. Took it back to mechanic replaced the evaporator. Same thing blew cold for a day and then warm air next day.
Mechanic told me to take it to Toyota to get it looked at and they said 3 way coolant valve so we replaced that and still blowing warm air. Took it back to Toyota for the second time and they said it was a bad compressor so we replaced that and still no cold air. No AC in Florida summer is getting old fast need to get this fixed.
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I bought my 2005 prius used 6 months ago, all the mechanics work fine except my AC which started going in June.
Over 2 weeks it started blowing less, eventually nothing. Used the refrigerant (the correct one with no oil) and filled to around 33 every other day for a while and it would work great. Finally went to dealership 3 weeks ago, paid 140 and they replaced one valve (expansion valve? cannot remember) and filled it up and it worked for 1 week. They said a previous owner had dye put in and they saw the dye there.
Brought it back when I thought it was starting to go again and they said they saw a small amount of dye leaking in the evaporator but it would last 2 months minimum (obviously didn't). I was quoted 1400 for evaporator replacement.
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I have an 09 f350 lariat with the factory 6 disc, sync system. Problem is the sunroof drain tube on the right front kinked and allowed water to overflow the drip tray on the sunroof and down the "A" pillar. The water then dripped onto the inertia fuel pump switch and then onto the sync module. I disassembled the module to dry and coat the circuit board with dielectric spray but one of the transistors is corroded and therefore the module is rendered useless. I have contacted the ford dealer for replacement module but no luck, even with the original part number on the sync module, or as ford calls it " Accessory Protocol Interface Module" My question is: can I get a module from another vehicle.
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I'm at a body shop now to pick up my 2004 V8 after fixing some scrapes from getting gently rear ended. When they pulled the car around, the front of the car was almost on the ground while the back looked very high. I'm concerned that the air ride is damaged. It's possible, if not likely, that they lifted the car without using jack mode. Can that be the cause of suspension damage?
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I am considering purchasing a 2010 as an upgrade from my current 2008, I have been reading recently as these last 3 days of constant rain made me check my current one for leaks and like normally the battery tray was filled with water.
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I got into an accident early Dec 15 with my 2014 Camry. Most of the damage was body mostly front hood but the radiator had to be replaced. For some reason ever since then my MPG has dropped quite a bit. I used to be able to drive 420 miles on 14 gallons but now I see myself filling up at the 300 mile mark. I recently got the 25k check up and everything was fine minus replacing my air cabin filter at the next checkup.
My driving route/style hasn't changed so I'm at loss.
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Can I do this without damage to anything?
'97 Expedition (but the F150 forum seems more mechanically incline, no offense to the Expedition forum).
I'm trying to find the cause of a vibration in what I think is the front drivetrain. I was almost positive that it was the front driveshaft universal joints. I jacked the truck up off all fours and took her for a spin. The noise seemed to be coming from the from u-joint.
I took the u-joints off and they were still nicely lubricated (after 230,000 miles). My heart sank since this probably not the root of my problem.
I'm surely going to put new u-joints in but think I'll get them from the dealer tomorrow (if the OEM stuff lasted this long, why buy aftermarket, even though it's the same stuff? I dunno, just my OCD kicking in.)
So, I thought I would take the truck for a drive without the front driveshaft today (in 2wd of course) to see if the vibration was gone. Can I do this?
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I just had new tires put on my rx330 and had an unbelievable combination of errors occur. The tire store put on 215/65 r17 tires on the front and 235/65 r17 tires on the rear. I know this sounds impossible but that's what happened. So I ended up with a substantial mismatch in tire sizes front to back.
Unfortunately I didn't discover this until 2 weeks later after driving around 225 miles half of which was high speed highway driving. Before the tires were changed the car ran straight without any pull to either side. Now it pulls to the right.
The tire store has offered to replace the tires with the correct ones and to compensate me for any damage to the transfer case, viscous coupling unit or transmission.
So how do I determine what level of damage occurred if any? Would all the damage be evident already simply driving the car. Alternatively, would the damage be a reduction in the operational lifespan of the drive train leading up to a "surprise" future failure?
The tire store has asked for an estimate of the repair costs which will be evaluated by an appraiser.
I don't want to identify the tire store until after a final settlement has been reached. However, it is a popular nation wide tire retailer.
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I will be getting the DDM HID kit and wondering about the necessity for a wiring harness as it seems many are running without it. I am concerned the not having it will somehow damage the car (based on researching HID's in general) but loving the plug and play idea of running without one.
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I just acquired a 2006 Prius with 96000 miles. My local service station said he did not want to change the transaxle fluid. He said he had changed it for someone and the car stopped working. My son the mechanical engineer said there is a risk that changing the fluid can dislodge particles that were not a problem and cause a problem. I don't drive many miles -maybe 3000 per year, so car will be 19 years old by the time I get over 130,000 miles. So I am not looking for the transaxle to last 200,000 miles or so.
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We keep our Prius in the garage. With our previous cars, my wife would leave the keys in the car overnight, If it was in the garage. I'm wondering with the smart key if having it in the car overnight, but not in the slot, would cause a problem.
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No one is taking the responsibility for the water in my transmission. I brought it to sunrise toyota because the car was making a noise - new tires were put on before they even diagnosed my car, told me to take it home it can not be fixed it has water damage from the storm.. I was not in Storm Sandy but they insisted I was. Took it to another shop and it was agreed that yes there is water damage but no one knows how it got there.
Insurance don't want to hear about it, neither does Toyota motors. They insist my insurance cover it and i am told it should be under warrantee. Who stands behind the consumer??? My car is 2 yrs old and brought it in for a noise and then told to take it out of the shop because they don't want to deal with it.
My car is freaken useless now with new 600 plus tires and Its not drivable..and worse now because all the lights are going on saying there's a problem with ABS and slippery roads and the brakes go to the floor.
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I have a 2007 the front wheel bearing started humming real bad, changed it out. Can't seem to get the right front brake bled good. Did it three times. No air. Today locked up the left wheel upon putting on the brake, the right one ain't working. Is there any thing I can do other than bleed the left front again, check fluid?
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Seems like the clear coat on both of my headlights is starting to get milky. Whatever is going on, it is happening from the outside. I buffed on them with scratch remover and put a coat of wax on them, (looks a little better now) but there is something going on.
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Wifes 2012 Prius V got a cracked windshield with no obvious rock or other damage. It started on the top where the glass meets the roof and grew quickly. Looks like a stress crack, you can run a pen down the crack and there is no obvious hang up where something hit the windshield. I'll have Toyota check it out later this week, but checking for statistics if others have suspect cracks or not.
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Long Story short: Brakes replaced at local dealer (courtesy offer from Toyota Corporate). I paid dealer, submitted invoice and received reimbursement. Service tech replaced front pads and rotors. Everything seemed fine until the day I popped the hood to detail the engine. Noticed that the fluid level in the master cylinder was at the cap and the cap itself had "popped" due to the excess pressure in the system. Brought the car back to the dealer. I was reassured that after draining off the excess fluid, the braking system would be OK. I disagreed.
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I have a 2004 Prius CVT-E with 160,000 miles. It gave me the check engine lights and after I drove it for a mile, it ran out of power and wouldn't accelerate, though it kept starting. After towing it to the dealer, they said there was a "loss of communication with ECMs and RCM junction connector for J18 for communication line due to water damaged from windshield leaking and shorting connector and junction block."
There was also water damage to the carpet and headliner assembly (it was raining that day). They said that the windshield must've been installed improperly at some point, but I don't remember ever having to replace the windshield.
So is it possible that they can tell that the windshield was different from the original, and any problems with original windshields?
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It's a 2006 with 135K. About 3 weeks ago I had a tire separation that caused significant body damage to the bumper and left front fender. I had the tires replaced, but left the damage, for now, as it's only aesthetic.
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My owners manual for my 2010 Prius says speeds over 85mph can result in severe engine damage. It also states you should not pull any type of trailer, but I have seen a few Prius's with trailer hitches but I would not try it.
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