Prius (Gen 2) :: 2009 Headlight Adjuster Not Working?
Mar 14, 2011
I have a 2009 Prius with NON HID headlights. The left one appears to not adjust properly. If I remove the bulb boot, the light bounces up and down (the part that is supposed to adjust). When I turn the adjuster, it will wiggle down then up again, like it is not engaging the screw inside... Also, when I hit a bump, the left beam bounces. The main housing is secure, just the inner (adjustable) one is not.
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So i was adjusting my headlamp and it popped and now the internal cartridge part is all loose and my headlamp is pointing at the ground. Long story short I need to remove my headlamp and repair, how do you fix the internal tray? I have only REPLACED lamps before never repaired them. Have to remove the cover lense or is there some other way? If I have to remove the lense I am just going to buy a new headlamp at the junk yard.
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I have a broken headlight adjuster assembly, it's a steel bolt with a Plastic nut on it, the Star piece behind the nut is broken. What is the source for this part ?? A Ford part number????
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As the tittle states, my driver side ratchet thing stopped working randomly, I've tried searching but cant find anything.
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My driver side low beam is not working. I checked the bulb and it's fine. I also checked the fuse and it's fine. Took it to the dealer and they said could be a few hours of labour to determine where the problem is in the wiring.
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My right headlight keeps going how so I went to Autozone thinking I would just grab a bulb.
Their chart shows that my 2009 Prius can have either HID or Halogen.
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So I have no high-lights on mirror controls and dash light adjuster (2 button clusters under left hand). I went to dealer, and after looking at this and also looking at other "brand new" C they tell me that it is not supposed to be lit up.
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I replaced both bulbs on my '07 (HID bulbs...lots-o-fun doing that!), now the left bulb is giving me issues, like the right did. Replaced them both with 6000 bulbs instead of the stock 4.3k. Am wondering if it was a good idea at all going with the 6k, thinking they might draw more wattage, thereby causing more current flow through other circuits, causing failure of something much more costly...
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I can't seem to find definitive information on this subject.
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I have a 2006 Prius that I purchased with no upgrade on the headlights. There was an upgrade available for high intensity lights, but, I didn't get them. The low beam on the passenger side headlight just stopped working. Two questions:
1. I was just told by the Toyota dealership that to replace the headlight, the entire front end of the car would need to be dropped. They just told me that with them supplying the bulbs, the cost would be about $250 plus tax. If I supply the bulbs, only about $200 plus tax. My owners manual indicates that this is a do-it-yourself project. Is this true or is the dealership trying to make money off of me?
2. When I do replace the lights, I would like to put in something that would put out more light than what I have now. I have been told to be careful because many replacement lights throw off so much heat that the housing around the bulb could melt. Also, I have read that some of these replacement bulbs have a very short working lifetime of 1-2 years. Obviously, I would want to keep away from them.
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I have a 2007 Passat 2.0t that unfortunately suffered a broken timing chain at 80k miles. While try to figure out what to do with it I'd like to learn a little bit about the design.
I have the timing chain cover off and have viewed the carnage. The chain broke and got jammed between the cover and the adjuster and the adjuster's pins sheered from the cam.
I can see the solenoid on the cam cover and the spring thingy extending concentrically from the cam cover to the cam adjuster.
What is the purpose of the cam adjuster? Is this changing the valve timing of the intake cams or is it simply maintaining the sync of the exhaust cam and intake cam as the chain wears?
How does the solenoid and the projecting spring from the cover influence the functioning of the adjuster?
Is the adjuster ruined on my car? Those pins are designed to shear off so maybe the adjuster is still ok?
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I have a 2009 Prius base model, and I've been having two different brake problems.
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Passat, 2003, 5 speed, turbo, 1.8T engine, 4 door, 66K miles.
No oil on garage floor and tiny amount of oil at rear of engine, Is this urgent?
(I have had many cars with no seal or gasket issues- especially at 66K).
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I am currently working on my accord and well have hit a bit of trouble nothing too bad. I was just wondering how do you retract the timing belt adjuster for the '98 honda accord.
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The star wheel is not bound up. I can adjust in manually and it clicks properly when tightening. The adjuster arm is touching the right area of the star wheel. What happens is, I manually adjust the rear brakes until they are close to perfect. I back up hoping to get them to self-adjust to the proper spec, and instead of tightening, they seem to loosen a few clicks and stay that way, leaving me with "half way" rear brakes. Meaning, it would take me a few hundred feat to come to any meaningful stop when pulling the E-brake.
I can also feel the difference between the rear brakes functioning, and not, despite their secondary role, and these are not functioning properly. Right after a drive, I can jack the car up and the wheel spins freely again as if I never adjusted them in the first place. They don't unadjust themselves to the point of being completely ineffective, just to the point of not being nearly how they should. I'd expect to be able to lock them up by pulling the e-brake, and it isn't even close.
When I apply the e-brake, I can hear them "grinding", sort of touching but not really. Everything seems to be installed correctly.
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I adjusted the slop out of my steering box according to this thread a couple days ago. Long story short I got the adjuster screw tightened down TOO far, probably when setting the locknut. Now the steering is unusually heavy and the steering wheel won't return to center on its own. Spent the last hour trying to go back the other way but I can't budge the allen head adjuster screw one bit. Locknut is plenty loose for it to turn, but the allen wrench is just flexing trying to turn it and it feels if I give it any more torque it's just going to strip out anyway. Is there anything I can try here to take the pressure off it so it'll turn or is the steering box now officially FUBAR?
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I recently bought an 2005, 3ltr diesel Phaeton (though packed with options) in Germany. I drove it home and was, and am, in awe of the motoring experience.
As a fan of cars I am lucky to own a Opel Speedster (VX 220 in the UK) and a Buick Riviera Boattail from 1972. But the Phaeton beats all of them together!
But......my newly acquired Phaeton failed the technical control over here in Belgium due to the headlight washers (squishers?) not working (coming out of the bumper). Not even with the manual override through the control screen.
Dealer have checked every fuse, replaced on of the batteries which was not functioning properly (and was causing numerous 'power' errors). The car has been with them for two weeks now and I am getting desperate to drive my car.
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Wondering if my 2004 3.2 V6 FWD should have them and they are just off or not working or if they may not be fitted to my specific model. Can see no signs of them working when i use the windscreen wash/wipe. no water on the front of the car or wet patches on lights, etc.
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I have a 2009 with the iSimple Gateway installed. For the second time this year, my 12v battery died after the car was driven very lightly for about 6 weeks (taken out for 20 minutes or so once a week), and now nothing happens when I hit the AM/SAT button. It never changes from AM. How to keep the battery from dying in the future, and how to make the audio system recognize the SAT function again?
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I have an 01gti glx and my headlights are not working when i turn my headlight switch on. They work just fine when i release the ebrake just not working with the switch! I checked the fuses under the dash and all were good.
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I don't use them much. Might not have used them since the truck was vag'd, they don't work,...fuse? Washer fluid low disables them )I don't know if it does, but I had a car that wouldn't let the headlamp washers run if the fluid was low).
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